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Custom Build: Thoughts and suggestions

Old 04-11-16, 08:18 AM
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Custom Build: Thoughts and suggestions

Hi,

I had posted previously that I was looking for a touring bike around $1,000 (canadian dollars), and after many unsuccessful looks at 2nd hand bikes I eventually found a bike shop in Montreal that can build for about $1,000 (plus taxes, but don't worry about that).

I was hoping some people here with more knowledge than me could take a look at the spec sheet and give me their thoughts. This shop makes their own frames, and the frame they use for touring bikes (and found in the spec sheet) is made of alloy steel and apparently based on the 80s touring frame the Miyati 1000.

Anyhow , all thoughts and comments appreciated!

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Old 04-11-16, 08:35 AM
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Planning on doing a lot of climbing with a 38x32 low gear?
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Old 04-11-16, 08:37 AM
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There's a note at the bottom of the invoice about changing to a triple.
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Old 04-11-16, 08:44 AM
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Re: climbing... ya, a bit? Our big upcoming trip is fairly flat, but day long trips out of the city (to the Laurentians) and 2 day trips up to Quebec city have big climbs. I don't know if it's insane climbing, but the gentleman we are working with, who knows the terrain, suggested having it as there is no downside that he can see (either in price or effecting quality of bike).

Is there a downside?
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Old 04-11-16, 08:51 AM
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My nitpicks:

A triple would have better gearing for touring, I agree. Or a compact double (110 mm BCD). I would never recommend a 130 mm BCD double for touring.

I don't recommend Shimano chains because they don't use a quick-link. KMC, SRAM, or Connex chains all include quicklinks that can be re-opened on the side of the road easily. Of course, you can buy a quick-link separately and add it to the Shimano chain, but why not buy a chain that includes one?

Do you like the pedals they're including in the build (platforms with toe clips and straps)? Don't pay for them if you don't.

Same with the tires. The Conti Tour Rides are durable but dead-feeling tires. Spec something lighter if you want a better ride.

Same with the saddle. If you have a different saddle in mind, don't pay for one you won't use.

I've tried neither, but I've heard of lots of folks that are disappointed by the Tektro CR720 brakes, and vastly prefer the Shimano CX70 cantilevers.


Otherwise, it looks like a practical and versatile build for a touring bike. 9 speed bar-end shifters are easy to use and reliable.
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Old 04-11-16, 08:52 AM
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What kind of tubing are they using for the frame? It's a reasonable question to ask. Other than that, the specs look just fine. (actually the above 'nitpicks' all seem like pretty good suggestion, except the receipt already spec's changing out to a triple at the bottom. ) Must be a standard built list.


I used to have the Univega version of the Miyata 1000, and it was a fine bike. It was however pretty much just a traditional touring frame that was well made and of good steel. They were not particularly cool or prestigious at the time, just a good bike for a good price.

Last edited by Salamandrine; 04-11-16 at 08:56 AM.
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Old 04-11-16, 09:19 AM
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you have any photos of complete bikes? a quick glance made me wonder
if the build sheet was from 1970. steel toe clips and cristoph leather straps,
cable hangers and cantilever brakes.

might be a cool vintage-style byke.

what about the wheels?



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Old 04-11-16, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by saddlesores
you have any photos of complete bikes? a quick glance made me wonder
if the build sheet was from 1970. steel toe clips and cristoph leather straps,
cable hangers and cantilever brakes.

might be a cool vintage-style byke.

what about the wheels?
No photo of a bike with this set-up. Their whole concept is "vintage" they actually do a lot more fixed gear or single speeds builds then anything else, and their other frames are styled like classic Italian frames in design and geometry.
As for the wheels, all I know is what's listed on the spec sheet. The cantilevers... we had a big discussion about this. I don't particularly want disc brakes (mainly for cost), but he is looking into mini-V brakes for me. So the canti set is not fixed in stone yet.


Originally Posted by Salamandrine
What kind of tubing are they using for the frame?
Asking about material of the frame? It's steel alloy. Is there another question I should ask, let me know, I rather ask a billion questions now, then be upset later on about something i should have known but didn't take the time to ask

Originally Posted by Tim_Iowa
My nitpicks:

I don't recommend Shimano chains because they don't use a quick-link. KMC, SRAM, or Connex chains all include quicklinks that can be re-opened on the side of the road easily. Of course, you can buy a quick-link separately and add it to the Shimano chain, but why not buy a chain that includes one?

Do you like the pedals they're including in the build (platforms with toe clips and straps)? Don't pay for them if you don't.

Same with the tires. The Conti Tour Rides are durable but dead-feeling tires. Spec something lighter if you want a better ride.

Same with the saddle. If you have a different saddle in mind, don't pay for one you won't use.
Thanks for going through the list! The chain, I will ask about... great suggestion. Same goes for the tires. Thanks.

The pedals, no I have no love for them, but they are useable. I am actually just getting them just to change them out for the pedals I use now (AND LOVE) for my current day to day bike. And then eventually, I'll just buy a 2nd pair of those pedals. Money is tight right now, so saving $$ where i can. Saddle: same story. I have a beautiful brooks on my day to day right now that I will just change out for this one.
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Old 04-11-16, 09:52 AM
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50-36 x 11-32 is probably not the best idea for loaded touring. Your minimum gear-inch stands at close to 32 -- the usual recommendation is to get as low as 20 (small chainring 26, largest cog 34). I'd definitely go triple with as little a granny as you can get.
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Old 04-11-16, 09:55 AM
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OK according to invoice, you got a pretty Cheap frame @$270 .

Actual Custom frame specs? 1.125" top & seat tubes 1,25" downtube?

Extra cost Options? 4 sets of bottle bosses , a pump peg to secure the pump behind the seat tube .

4 eyelet fork tips front & rear? mid fork bosses .. ? for say... Tubus steel racks.



like bringing I thingies ? you want hub dynamo charging options? super tidy, a Schmidt SL uses a special fork tip contact
to eliminate the plugs.

then the hub end is the 2 contacts.. separated by insulations. Wiring runs up inside the fork blade, a custom path.

thru holes up inside a threadless steerer , to those USB plug top caps..

Last edited by fietsbob; 04-11-16 at 11:17 AM.
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Old 04-11-16, 11:12 AM
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Change the crankset to a triple, with a 24 or 26t granny ring. You won't ever need the large ring above 44t with the specified cassette.
Opt instead for 12-32 casette due to a smaler jump between few of the shifts.
Once going to triple, the rear derailleur may have to be replaced (I don't recall Sora's total capacity - you can look it up).
I second Tim's suggestion to install a chain with a quick link from get-go.
Inquire about the wheels - number of spokes, strongish rims, durable and serviceable hubs (no need to reply to this thread with your feedback - just make sure you feel comfortable with toruing weight on these wheels).
Inquire about mounting provisions for luggage and mudguard (eyelets).
How was it determined that a 80 mm quill stem would suit you?
How was it determined that the handle bar width should be 410 mm?
How was the handlebar drop and reach determined?
How was it determined that a 170 mm crank fits you best?
The pedals are of the cheapest variety, and there are better ones out there for a comparable price.
What do you specifically like about this saddle that you selected it?
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