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Forumslader (USB charger) - first impressions

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Forumslader (USB charger) - first impressions

Old 06-04-20, 06:02 AM
  #26  
dwyane
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Where I can buy Forumslader v5.3? I don't understand german on their website. Is there an order option?
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Old 06-04-20, 10:35 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by dwyane View Post
Where I can buy Forumslader v5.3? I don't understand german on their website. Is there an order option?
Google Chrome will translate their web page.

How do I place an order and pay?

Orders are currently only possible via email, unfortunately prepayment is required. We prefer SEPA within the EU, outside Europe and PayPal is also possible on request.

How long is the delivery time?

We can almost always send kits within the next few days after receipt of the money, but mounted loaders have delivery times of 3-6 weeks (please ask).
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Old 06-04-20, 10:50 AM
  #28  
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Price list in English:
https://www.forumslader.de/fileadmin/...st_english.pdf

Assembly instructions in English:
https://www.forumslader.de/fileadmin/...V5_kompakt.pdf
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Old 06-20-20, 04:46 AM
  #29  
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I'm thinking of getting a Forumslader V5 Ahead and don't mind a bit of DIY. I don't get how the electronics and battery assembly is secured in the steerer tube though? Or is this left up to the installer to work out for themselves? An expander plug (not supplied) is used to secure the USB stem cap right? Then the cables pass through this to the electronics below, but what is securing / supporting the electronics?
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Old 06-20-20, 08:58 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by jamessss View Post
what is securing / supporting the electronics?
It is supported from above by the wires going to the USB plug, and if you like, from below by some stuffing (eg. a piece of foam). Being very lightweight, wires from above appear to be sufficient. (I've added a couple of layers of silicone tape around the cylinder, to add friction between the forumslader and the steerer. Zero sign of stress)
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Old 06-20-20, 09:06 AM
  #31  
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Thanks for confirmng - I was wondering if it was just hanging by the wires! That's good to know and about the weight and padding / foam idea too. Thanks
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Old 06-21-20, 12:08 PM
  #32  
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If you want something more permanent than foam, you can shove a starnut all the way down to the fork crown, or up from below, and feed the wires up through the gaps. Assuming it's an old style metal fork with a steerer tube that's open top to bottom.

Personally I like the tight foam plug idea. You might add some hot melt glue around the edge for a bit more peace of mind.
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Old 06-21-20, 02:28 PM
  #33  
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That's a good call about using the star nut. I was planning on ordering a expander nut for the top of the stem, so I could reuse the existing star nut on the bottom for support. (I can see all the way through the steerer tube when I remove the stem cap). I'm a bit apprehensive about having the electronics (maybe a couple of hundred grams?) swinging by the USB cables inside, but I'm sure I can find a solution with either foam or starnut or both.
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Old 06-21-20, 11:31 PM
  #34  
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If it was me using the star nut... I'd remove one tang with a dremel, polish it smooth, then wrap the heck out of the wire from the hub where it would go through the gap.. Couple of layers of heatshrink maybe, or just a lot of electrical tape. Otherwise the gaps in the tangs are real small, and might be sharp enough to abrade the insulation over time.
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Old 06-22-20, 01:00 AM
  #35  
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My own personal opinion is that for touring you are better off having the Forumslader as an independent unit, with the big batteries and a plug connection to the bike wiring. Then get the USB loader and fit the same plug to that. That way the FL acts like a dynamo charging portable battery bank, that you can also charge from a wall outlet. With it removable from the bike you can charge your stuff or the FL in your tent, room, internet cafe. In my case I made it into a tube like a bike pump and use pump clips to mount it on the frame, but you could easily carry it in a handlebar bag.
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Old 10-24-20, 10:38 PM
  #36  
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Most importantly: the email address for the order is info (@) forumslader (dot) de
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Old 01-19-21, 05:52 AM
  #37  
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Hello,
I am interested in dessing a USB-charger similar to Forumslader but more basic for a university subject.

Do you know the electronic parts?
What is the DC/DC ? Maybe use LT3759 ? or something similar?

Realy I am a little lost,
Can you help me?
Thanks in advance
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Old 01-19-21, 10:22 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by valver View Post
Hello,
I am interested in dessing a USB-charger similar to Forumslader but more basic for a university subject.

Do you know the electronic parts?
What is the DC/DC ? Maybe use LT3759 ? or something similar?

Realy I am a little lost,
Can you help me?
Thanks in advance
I am not an electronic engineer, so I have no clue on a lot of this stuff. But I can say that i was really surprised how much it cost to buy a good USB charger that you could use with a bicycle dynohub. So, I tried to build my own using a USB step down voltage converter with a rectifier. Bicycle dynohubs put out alternating current.

But, I kept blowing out the circuits and gave up. If you ride a bike down a hill without using any of the power out of a bicycle dynonub, the voltage can climb quite high, so your circuit would need to withstand high voltage. I measured over 30 volts coasting down a shallow hill on my dynohub.

So, if you want to build your own, maybe start with a buck step down voltage converter like I did but maybe put in some zener diodes for high voltage or maybe get one that could withstand higher voltage than the one I had.

And like I said, I am not an electronic engineer, so perhaps the little bit of advice I have here is not very good advice.

Good luck.

***

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Old 01-19-21, 11:45 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN View Post
I am not an electronic engineer, so I have no clue on a lot of this stuff. But I can say that i was really surprised how much it cost to buy a good USB charger that you could use with a bicycle dynohub. So, I tried to build my own using a USB step down voltage converter with a rectifier. Bicycle dynohubs put out alternating current.

But, I kept blowing out the circuits and gave up. If you ride a bike down a hill without using any of the power out of a bicycle dynonub, the voltage can climb quite high, so your circuit would need to withstand high voltage. I measured over 30 volts coasting down a shallow hill on my dynohub.

So, if you want to build your own, maybe start with a buck step down voltage converter like I did but maybe put in some zener diodes for high voltage or maybe get one that could withstand higher voltage than the one I had.

And like I said, I am not an electronic engineer, so perhaps the little bit of advice I have here is not very good advice.

Good luck.

***

In the future you might consider starting a new thread instead of resurrecting an older thread for a new purpose.
Hello @Tourist in MSN
Thanks for the answer. IŽm trying to be an electronic engineer

At the moment, I found this information:
-The electrical drawing must have:
*Bridge Rectifier --> Maybe using SBR diodes
*Input Protection --> Maybe using MOSFET
*Input Capacitor blocks
+
*DC/DC Converter --> This is my biggest doubt. I think like you, the prices in the market of the usb charger are very high however the electronic circuit not. This is why I choose to design it for my university subject.
*Output
*Battery blocks

If I can manufacture it, I "give away" the electrical drawing and the component lists.

Best regards.
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Old 01-24-21, 09:48 PM
  #40  
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The "Forumslader" is the result of a "design your own charger" project

That's exactly how the "Forumslader" came to be. The name says it all. It's a charger (lader) designed my members of the German online "Rad Forum" (Bike Forum). They found that the commercial versions were overpriced and under functioning, so they designed their own.

What they ended up with has more features than I want; the current version (v5!) seems to be oriented around 12V e-bike lighting rather than 6V conventional bike lighting. But it's incredibly good value for what you get, especially if you buy the "kit". Building it yourself also lets you decide how big a cache battery you want, what form-factor you want, and so on.

If you want to design your own, you should of course feel free to do so — it will be a fun and educational project. A really good place to start, though, would be understanding the design ideas and tradeoffs that the Rad Forum designers made — start here.
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Old 02-11-21, 02:15 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by SquireBlack View Post
That's exactly how the "Forumslader" came to be. The name says it all. It's a charger (lader) designed my members of the German online "Rad Forum" (Bike Forum). They found that the commercial versions were overpriced and under functioning, so they designed their own.

What they ended up with has more features than I want; the current version (v5!) seems to be oriented around 12V e-bike lighting rather than 6V conventional bike lighting. But it's incredibly good value for what you get, especially if you buy the "kit". Building it yourself also lets you decide how big a cache battery you want, what form-factor you want, and so on.

If you want to design your own, you should of course feel free to do so — it will be a fun and educational project. A really good place to start, though, would be understanding the design ideas and tradeoffs that the Rad Forum designers made — star here.

Thank you very much for your reply.

So, can you ensure that "Forumslader" uses the MC7806 integrated circuit?
I would say that it does not use an integrated regulator, however it does use a switched regulator.
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Old 03-26-21, 07:59 AM
  #42  
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Maxim 20048?

I am currently tinkering with a Maxim MAX20048 Buck Boost controller which might meet our needs. Has huge input range, can be configured to output 5 volts, minimum input voltage is low at 2v, can output up to 5A. Efficiency in the low 90's. Next step is to buy a USB monitor to measure actual performance at various speeds.
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Old 03-26-21, 08:21 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Sparky78 View Post
I am currently tinkering with a Maxim MAX20048 Buck Boost controller which might meet our needs. Has huge input range, can be configured to output 5 volts, minimum input voltage is low at 2v, can output up to 5A. Efficiency in the low 90's. Next step is to buy a USB monitor to measure actual performance at various speeds.
According to their specs..."Tolerates input transients to 40V". I am fairly certain that bike dynohubs such as SON exceed this voltage at higher speeds down hill.
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Old 03-26-21, 09:26 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Sparky78 View Post
I am currently tinkering with a Maxim MAX20048 Buck Boost controller which might meet our needs. Has huge input range, can be configured to output 5 volts, minimum input voltage is low at 2v, can output up to 5A. Efficiency in the low 90's. Next step is to buy a USB monitor to measure actual performance at various speeds.
They are cheap. Pre-Covid I have bought several from asia, but they now have extended shipping times, this one is closer to home.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Power-T...s/123946852024


Originally Posted by IPassGas View Post
According to their specs..."Tolerates input transients to 40V". I am fairly certain that bike dynohubs such as SON exceed this voltage at higher speeds down hill.
I measured 30 some volts out of my hub with no load on it on a shallow downhill, you are right that only 40 volts capacity for over-voltage is not high enough.
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Old 03-26-21, 03:09 PM
  #45  
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So slap a 40V Zener diode across the inputs

EDIT: or does it need a pair, one in each direction? As the current is AC. Disclaimer: I am not an electrical engineer

Last edited by fourfa; 04-05-21 at 01:41 PM.
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Old 04-04-21, 09:01 AM
  #46  
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Very instructive thread.
BTW, the ad bots keep posting ads for Dodge Chargers, but no info on how to mount them on your bike.
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