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Novara - Safari 'Gearing' Change

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Novara - Safari 'Gearing' Change

Old 09-13-16, 02:46 AM
  #26  
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AdvXtrm, Congrats on the positive change and thanks for the feedback.

Brad
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Old 10-13-16, 12:50 AM
  #27  
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I've not had enough riding in yet, and none loaded enough yet to know, but I have a feeling that I'll likely end up moving from the 11-34 cassette to a 12-36 as previously discussed. If I do, would it be ok to swap out the 12 and replace it with the 11 from my current cassette, so as to not lower my top-end any further than it already is?
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Old 10-13-16, 03:35 AM
  #28  
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I'm a big fan of having a low low gear. I have 26" wheels and I hit a couple of hills last tour where even 22 x 34 wouldn't cut it. Yeah I carry a lot of stuff, but I tour on a bicycle not bicycle on a tour. Pushing up hills sucks. I've got a 20T granny to go on the front, but I've got to attack the spider with a grinder to get some chain clearance. The high end I only use get some extra drive for hooning down hills.
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Old 10-13-16, 08:22 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by AdvXtrm View Post
I've not had enough riding in yet, and none loaded enough yet to know, but I have a feeling that I'll likely end up moving from the 11-34 cassette to a 12-36 as previously discussed. If I do, would it be ok to swap out the 12 and replace it with the 11 from my current cassette, so as to not lower my top-end any further than it already is?
Three comments.

- the cassette isnt optimized to use an 11t cog. that doesnt mean it wont work, just that it isnt optimized.
- 11-34 cassettes usually go 11-13 for the first 2 cogs. 12-36 usually go 12-14 for the first 2 cogs. You would then have an 11-14 for the first 2 cogs. Thats a big jump for the 2 smallest cogs and it might not be ideal for your cadence. Or it might not matter to you.
- MOST IMPORTANT- are you using that 11t cog a lot? You would use it pretty much only when in the largest chainring as if you are in the middle or smaller chainring, you could find a different gear combo to match using the 11t cog(and shouldnt ever be in the 11t cog when in the smallest ring). If you arent in the large chainring 11t cog often, then you dont need to keep it. Might as well try the 12t cog on the 12-36 because you might use it more often.
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Old 10-13-16, 09:34 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by AdvXtrm View Post
I've not had enough riding in yet, and none loaded enough yet to know, but I have a feeling that I'll likely end up moving from the 11-34 cassette to a 12-36 as previously discussed. If I do, would it be ok to swap out the 12 and replace it with the 11 from my current cassette, so as to not lower my top-end any further than it already is?
As stated, unless you are already on your big chainring up front and your current 11-tooth cog a lot, you wont miss it at all.
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Old 10-13-16, 10:54 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr View Post
Three comments.

- the cassette isnt optimized to use an 11t cog. that doesnt mean it wont work, just that it isnt optimized.
- 11-34 cassettes usually go 11-13 for the first 2 cogs. 12-36 usually go 12-14 for the first 2 cogs. You would then have an 11-14 for the first 2 cogs. Thats a big jump for the 2 smallest cogs and it might not be ideal for your cadence. Or it might not matter to you.
- MOST IMPORTANT- are you using that 11t cog a lot? You would use it pretty much only when in the largest chainring as if you are in the middle or smaller chainring, you could find a different gear combo to match using the 11t cog(and shouldnt ever be in the 11t cog when in the smallest ring). If you arent in the large chainring 11t cog often, then you dont need to keep it. Might as well try the 12t cog on the 12-36 because you might use it more often.
Originally Posted by Sharpshin View Post
As stated, unless you are already on your big chainring up front and your current 11-tooth cog a lot, you wont miss it at all.
Well, I still haven't gotten enough opportunity to ride much yet because I'm still recovering, but also I've had my bike apart more than together because of how much altering and upgrading I've been doing. During the riding I have done since I swapped out the crank-set, when going downhill I felt that I would not want to lose any more from my top-end. Also, I'm not worried about the change effecting my cadence between those two gears. I'd only be using that 11 on the occasional long downhill runs. However, if it turns out I would have to, I'm sure I could live with without it. But if I can keep what I've got while doing this cassette change, why not? So these things considered, does it seem ok for me to do go ahead and swap the 12 out for the 11?
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Old 11-06-16, 12:36 AM
  #32  
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I just installed my 12-36 cassette, and while I haven't had a chance to test ride it yet, I can tell you that the 11 and 12 tooth cogs and their respective lock-rings are not interchangeable with one-another. The cogs and the lock-rings are of different widths and thickness, so swapping them will not work.
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Old 11-06-16, 03:27 AM
  #33  
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AdvXtrm, Make sure that the chain is long enough so that a big-big combination won't pull the RD into the wheel's spokes if accidentally selected. Also you may need to adjust the B screw for idler pulley clearance with the larger cog.

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Old 11-06-16, 10:26 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by bradtx View Post
AdvXtrm, Make sure that the chain is long enough so that a big-big combination won't pull the RD into the wheel's spokes if accidentally selected. Also you may need to adjust the B screw for idler pulley clearance with the larger cog.

Brad
Thanks, I did have to adjust the B-tension. I also finished up installing all new cables at the same time, so complete setup and fine tuning was in order. It all running real nice on the stand. I'll try and get it out for a test ride today and see how it goes, and make any adjustments needed.

Unfortunately I did notice an issue though. With the bike up suspended on the stand, when I spin the rear wheel there is a slight wobble to the wheel, enough to rock the hub/cassette a bit as the wheel turns. Is this a bad hub or something else?
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Old 11-06-16, 10:37 AM
  #35  
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AdvXtrm, It's not uncommon for the cassette to wobble just a little. This was more common with freewheel hubs and didn't effect function.

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Old 11-06-16, 11:01 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by bradtx View Post
AdvXtrm, It's not uncommon for the cassette to wobble just a little. This was more common with freewheel hubs and didn't effect function.

Brad
That's great to hear!
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