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New custom touring bike build

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New custom touring bike build

Old 10-22-16, 11:17 PM
  #26  
MassiveD
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Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN View Post
I did not see this when originally posted, I was on a trip away from the internet for over a week.

I am quite happy with Halo bolt on skewers. Any 5mm allen wrench will open them. My assumption is that a typical thief is an opportunist and will not be carrying around a multi-tool. This way I do not have to worry about losing my special skewer key. If you decide to try the Halo skewers, they take a bit of getting used to, only one spring instead of two and the nut has a tab that fits in the drop out slot. If you stick with the Pitlocks, make sure you do not lose the key.

I use these:

Nashbar Bolt-On Skewers

8.99, lighter, safer, more secure, cleaner look, when touring I always have keys, I wish the whole bike used nothing but 5mm keys. You can drop the small rare earth magnets in there to further impede a crook, makes it look like a special fitting. Overall I don't worry about thieves. I never leave the bike. A touring bike is chock full of stuff, you can't easily get it all of the bike. So I prefer not to leave the bike unattended, but that would sure be a limitation in places that had lots of sightseeing sights, as opposed to the great outdoors.
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Old 10-23-16, 07:15 PM
  #27  
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I'm not necessarily sold on the SON 28. I own one, used it extensively on my cross Canada tour 2015. If you are attempting to charge in the mountains, you may be surprised at how little if at all charging gets done. On the days where you are mostly on the flats or slightly hilly regions, you'll be fine. UNLESS you're a freakin monster on the mountains then pardon my interruption!
A friend bought me a battery pack upon my return. It is nearly the size of an iPhone 5, has a flashlight, will jumpstart a car (REALLY! I have done it) and can charge a device, phone, GPS, camera battery, etc by USB port several times before it needs to be recharged. Cost? Half of the SON28!
The headlight on the SON28 is definitely good, but I've seen better LED, but don't know costs. I was stopped on my tour 2 times and told that my tail light was very good as compared to those "Blinkie" lights. I have a Toplight line brake plus.
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Old 10-23-16, 11:26 PM
  #28  
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bring the mains charger to lunch. phone should be charged by the time you finish the pie.
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Old 10-24-16, 05:55 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
bring the mains charger to lunch. phone should be charged by the time you finish the pie.
I will just keep an eye out for a good place to stop for lunch.
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Old 10-24-16, 07:54 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by azza_333 View Post
This will be my first bike with interrupter levers, I really wanted high end hydraulic disc brakes on bike, but had to rule them out because I wanted the interrupter levers, I find I spend a lot of time on the tops, and I like the ability to brake from the tops in an emergency.
Originally Posted by bradtx View Post
I don't see much use for the interrupter brake levers, I've been leaning towards some Vittoria Rando Hyper tires or maybe Gayorskins, and I'm not comfy on Brooks saddles for three items. Like I wrote, simply trivial personal preference items that don't mean anything for your build.
I put them on my touring build. My rationale was I knew I was going where I would be navigating a lot of traffic in an urban environment, and I wanted to ride more upright and retain braking. I ended up not using them as much as I though, but still liked having them a lot. But, it is all personal preference. I'm still thinking they'll go on my MUP bike next time the handlebars come apart.
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Old 10-24-16, 08:29 AM
  #31  
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Interrupter levers are particularly useful on long gravel/dirt descents requiring constant braking for miles on end. Power is somewhat limited braking from the hoods, the neck gets fatigued looking up from the drops. If you have small hands like mine the levers are also a stretch to reach from the drops. The interrupters provide mountain bike power braking from the tops with the neck at a comfortable angle.

See how relaxed my neck and wrists are not being scrunched down at the drops and I'm not braking from the hoods...


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Old 11-06-16, 05:34 AM
  #32  
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Update 6th November 2016:

Wheels have been built, and I now have all the components, for the bike.
The last task I have to get completed before I can assemble the bike, is getting the frame/fork painted satin black, with red decals.
rsz_1rsz_dsc_0720.jpg
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Old 11-06-16, 09:20 AM
  #33  
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You are painting a brand new frame?...powderckat or wet paint?
Is it because you dislike the orange/red or because you would have repainted any color due to loving satin black?
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Old 11-06-16, 03:52 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr View Post
You are painting a brand new frame?...powderckat or wet paint?
Is it because you dislike the orange/red or because you would have repainted any color due to loving satin black?
Yeah its a brand new frame, but the orange is just to bright for me, so I'm getting it sprayed(wet paint), I was very surprised how expensive it is to have a bike painted, almost costs as much as the frame itself.
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Old 11-07-16, 10:03 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by azza_333 View Post
Yeah its a brand new frame, but the orange is just to bright for me, so I'm getting it sprayed(wet paint), I was very surprised how expensive it is to have a bike painted, almost costs as much as the frame itself.
If you build up the bike and use it for a trip, you might have gotten happier about the color by the end of the trip.
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Old 11-07-16, 11:32 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by azza_333 View Post
Yeah its a brand new frame, but the orange is just to bright for me, so I'm getting it sprayed(wet paint), I was very surprised how expensive it is to have a bike painted, almost costs as much as the frame itself.
Yeah, wet paint isnt cheap. At all.

Over here, you can powdercoat a frame for $100-200 depending on where its done and how much prep work is required. More durable than wet, but wet ultimately has a higher quality look once finished.

Stinks you couldnt just get a black frame that fit your needs.
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Old 11-07-16, 12:02 PM
  #37  
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Though the catalyst cured paints are tough, like a sprayed epoxy..
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Old 11-07-16, 12:40 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN View Post
If you build up the bike and use it for a trip, you might have gotten happier about the color by the end of the trip.
100% correct ,i used to own a woodrup orange frame it was a stunning bike ,yeah think twice u go spending all that cash on a color
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Old 02-02-17, 04:32 AM
  #39  
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Update 2nd Feb 2017:
After so many delays with this bike build it is finally complete.

The only exceptions are:
Stem, I currently have an adjustable stem, until I figure out what length/angle I need.
Rotors, Currently have installed the stock TRP rotors, but I will switch them for the Shimano RT86 ice tech rotors in the coming months.
Tyres, I am just using an old set for now.

Now for the BAD NEWS, as much as I loved the concept of using the Jtek Shiftmates, to match my STI road shifters to the MTB gearing, sadly the shifting is very poor as a result, I took it to my LBS, they had a fiddle with it but couldn’t get it any better either. So as a result, I have ordered some ever faithful bar end shifters (Microshift BS-M10 the same one on the Surly LHT)

Also the braking is not the greatest, I will wait until I have install the bar end shifters and take the bike for a few more rides, and see if I can fiddle with the brakes a bit more, but if I can’t get the brakes to work well enough, I will unfortunately have to give up on my idea of having brakes on the hoods, and interrupter levers on the tops. Instead I will just buy a set of TRP Hylex hydraulic brakes.

Once I get the bike working well, I will be doing a Dynamo USB power test to see how much USB power I can get out of it at different speeds.

Also with regards to the bar end shifters on the ends of the drops, I am thinking of routing the cable all the way up the drops, and have it come out on the tops, where a STI cable would, does anyone think this will cause any major degradation in shifting performance?

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Old 02-02-17, 05:00 AM
  #40  
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azza_333, Many have routed the bar-end cables to exit near the stem without problems. The only consideration is that a longer shifter cable, meant for a tandem, might be needed.

Brad
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Old 02-02-17, 08:36 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by azza_333 View Post
[
Also with regards to the bar end shifters on the ends of the drops, I am thinking of routing the cable all the way up the drops, and have it come out on the tops, where a STI cable would, does anyone think this will cause any major degradation in shifting performance?
I have cables routed under the tape to the stem on 2 bikes. 1 friction shifting and 1 is 9sp indexed. With good cables and good housing, it shifts accurately every time.
I did need a tandem cable for rear shifting.
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Old 02-02-17, 08:52 AM
  #42  
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Before you give up on the shifters, try the Wolftooth Tanpan. Works great for 11s hydro road brifters to MTB M8000 RD and 11-40 cassette.
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Old 02-02-17, 10:00 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by azza_333 View Post

Now for the BAD NEWS, as much as I loved the concept of using the Jtek Shiftmates, to match my STI road shifters to the MTB gearing, sadly the shifting is very poor as a result, I took it to my LBS, they had a fiddle with it but couldnít get it any better either. So as a result, I have ordered some ever faithful bar end shifters (Microshift BS-M10 the same one on the Surly LHT)
Well it was destined not to work in first place especially the front derailer. But you could still match the STI to a road front derailer and a 9 speed mountain bike derailer if you want to keep the STI.

Originally Posted by azza_333 View Post
Also the braking is not the greatest, I will wait until I have install the bar end shifters and take the bike for a few more rides, and see if I can fiddle with the brakes a bit more, but if I canít get the brakes to work well enough, I will unfortunately have to give up on my idea of having brakes on the hoods, and interrupter levers on the tops. Instead I will just buy a set of TRP Hylex hydraulic brakes.
I think you might be setting up your brake incorrectly. I have TRP Spykes on my mountain bikes now (three sets) and find that they work better than Avid BB7s and far better than the hydraulics they replaced on one bike. I suspect that if yours aren't working properly, you may not have the pads close enough to the rotor. Disc pads need to be extremely close to the rotor or the brake is really mushy. Try turning both pad adjustment screws on the caliper inward until the pad just clears the rotor. You will probably have to tune the rotor as well so that it is hyper-straight. I haven't run across a rotor yet that is straight enough from the factory


Originally Posted by azza_333 View Post
Also with regards to the bar end shifters on the ends of the drops, I am thinking of routing the cable all the way up the drops, and have it come out on the tops, where a STI cable would, does anyone think this will cause any major degradation in shifting performance?
Major? Probably not. But you are putting a lot of rather tight bends on the shifter cable so friction can be come an issue.
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Old 02-02-17, 10:47 AM
  #44  
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Awesom looking ride man. That's a magic carpet!
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