Stupid front pannier rack question
 

So in doing research, I've noted two types of low riding front pannier racks: some have a bar that loops up and over the tire connecting the racks on each side of the fork, and some do not.

What is the purpose of this bar, and is is more desirable to have it or not? Is it just for more rack stability? Mounting lights? There doesn't seem to be any correlation to price and it being there or not, i.e. it doesn't seem to indicate quality.

Links to the bars?

Haven't really settled on any ones in particular, but something like this without a bar: http://www.treefortbikes.com/product...Low-Rider.html
Or something like this, where it has the connecting bar: Jandd Low Front Rack: Black in Tree Fort Bikes Front Mount Racks

The connecting bar serves to slightly increase rigidity, but it's main purpose is safety related.

Imagine if a rack were to loosen and rotate into the front wheel. It's a sure prescription for an endo. The connecting bar ensures that that can't happen. So, while slippage is rare if racks are properly installed and the hardware checked from time to time, consider the bar to be a safety net --- just in case.

Stability. It helps keep the rack from twisting into spokes.

Bruce Gordon Motto "hoopless is Hopeless"
I have Bruce's I added a Braze on for the light on the side of the Hoop
(summer days are long so Its a Battery Light)

The other type needs a Bolt thru the Fork ( or 2 threaded bosses aligned like that )
and the rack doubly braced on each side.
http://www.tubus.com/image_small/ima...?xn=1484002644

http://www.tubus.com/documents/1442217084_Duo_BM.pdf

The Tuibus Duo that fietsbob posted a photo of above mounts to each side of the fork blade, as he noted when he said "The other type needs a Bolt thru the Fork", but there are some low budget racks sold that do not have that reinforcement. If you get one that does not attach to both sides of the fork blade, you should add a reinforcement there.

I foolishly bought an Axiom rack that did not have that reinforcement, you can see in the photo that I added a reinforcement so that it does attach to both sides of the fork blade.

As long as your panniers are light and you don't crash, the type without a hoop is generally ok as long as it does attach to both sides of the fork blade.

OK, cool, thanks for the info! Most of the ones I was looking at have the hoop, so that's probably how I'll go, assuming I don't want to pony up the extra cash for one with a platform top rack. Was mainly just curious as to the rationale, as none of the manufacturers had an explanation as to what it was actually for.

Wasn't thinking of keeping much weight up there, probably just cooking equipment and food in one, and tools in the other, just trying to keep some weight off the back, as I packed way too much back there last trip without the camping supplies.

I don't really know if it is more desireable to have the bar over the tire or not. However, in my experience with a front rack that has the hoop over the tire, the hoop does not present any problems, and may add some rigidity. When removed from the bike for shipping the front rack folds almost flat. After the initial installation, it takes about 5 minutes to remount it after shipping. Also, not all bikes have braze-ons that go through both side of the fork blade, as required with the Tubus Duo front rack..

When we use our car to get to the start of tours we haul up to 4 bikes on the car, two on the roof and 1-2 bikes on a hitch mount in the rear. I haul my bike on the roof which requires removing the front rack to allow securing the fork properly to the rack. Before leaving on a tour with our daughters this summer, I removed the front rack and placed it on the rear rack. I forgot about the front rack and put my bike on the car. It travelled unsecured all the way from Oregon to Creston, British Columbia on the top of my rear rack. I did not realize my mistake until I started looking in the car for my front rack. I thought I'd just forgotten it. My wife noticed it when I took the bike off the car's roof. A lot of B.S. to say that some front racks may need to be removed for packing or to use a fork mounted roof rack; and don't lay it on your rear rack for the ride:)

Yeah, I don't have the fork brazeons, I've gotta use the U-bolts, P-clips or Tubus brazeon adapters no matter what. This bike is getting boxed for an airplane, so likely anything I buy needs to come off with a bunch of other parts, one more part for assembly isn't much of a concern!

Realistically, I was more or less between the Nashbar low rider (apparently a copy of an old Blackburn design) or that Jandd, which my LBS has had sitting on the clearance rack for the better part of a year now. Both have the bar, was just trying to determine if there was any disadvantage to it, and as I mentioned still maybe talking myself into something with a flat useable rack up top.

The Tubus Duo is rock solid if mounted properly. It's also entertainment; while riding the bike unloaded, strangers find it curious and just have to ask....

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5641/2...9e8faf87_c.jpg

The Jandd is probably a good rack. However, it does not look like it can be folded into a compact bundle if needed for travel. Depending on how you pack, it may not be an issue.

It looks nice, but even on the clearance rack it is still well more costly than the Nashbar, which seems to get good reviews. I'm not worried about packing, I had plenty of room last time I boxed my 27" tour bike, and this bike takes up less room. I can drop whatever I take over the top tube easy enough, or stick it in the triangle (or on the back rack :P )

It has caught my eye in the past. How solid/easy to mount would it be with a U-bolt? I've got a rather thick fork on the MTB, it doesn't seem to have a lot of room to make it work?

Just one more thought to add, the Blackburn clones like the Nashbar do not work with certain panniers...like Ortlieb. Guess how I know, lol.

I simply reverse an entry level rear rack Using industrial strength cable ties T&B Ty-Rap's to fasten them and the front low riders together where the intersect. This with my lunch kit bag is an equivalent to a handle bar bag.
I just duplicated the bike that I used and left at the far end of last years trek.

Hope this helps.

:commute:

-Snuts-

Tubus Tara also folds flat.. the J hooks not withstanding..
also offered in a fat bike version. for big apple tire users.

I bet you did not try modifying the rack, make those round holes square and big enough..

dont feel bad a lot more plug and play expectations seem to be stated herein.


:rolleyes:

actually, I did go at it with the dremel but as you stated, plug and play expectations

Brother in law has the Jandd low rider rack. Its really solid and he has overloaded the front (my opinion) without issue.

After having a couple jandd products and testing them, i think that company makes some solid but not flashy gear. Love it.

the holes were used for the securing pins on the aero tailwind panniers passed thru them. [80's]


;)

I wouldn't want to mount the Tubus Duo any other way than intended. Could cause a problem down the road.

believe the hoop is for stability/rigidity. lowriders without
could maybe twist and rub the wheel. also helps hold the
panniers just right.....a few mm off center is so aggravating.

bike i purchased at a shop in china had blackburn-clone
lowriders, but without the hoop. attached to a metal band at
the base (1" thick straight fork legs), and a u-bolt at the top.

secure enough on road, sloppy on gravel.
used a fender strut as a hoop, very solid, never a problem
with years of rough gravel/dirt/cobble roads.
not used for heavy gear....usually figger-8 folded tire or
coil locks stapped on, sometimes small panners 8-10 lbs.

previously did 10's of 1000's of miles with authentic
blackburn lowriders, 10-15 lbs per side. always stable.

Well, that's what I needed to know, cause I'm planning a few hundred miles through remote areas 55/45 or so road/gravel.

don't miss this part of the response!

fork legs were just straight round tubes (dh fork?) about 1" diameter.
could not attach lowriders to the lower dropout eyelets.
just a metal band (DIY stainless p-clamp) at the bottom, u-bolt at top.

only friction to prevent movement in the case of major shock.
just one fixed mounting point would have made a difference.
later transferred to fork with useable lower eyelets.....kept the brace
cause it couldn't hurt and only weighs about an ounce.

FWIW, I have custom-built racks that fit "exactly" and very rigidly on my touring bicycle. Both front and back racks have platforms. Why? The builder has a LOT of experience building expedition grade touring bicycles (which is mine) and I followed his suggestions. Better to have and not need than to need and not have. :thumb: