Deerhead cantilevers question.
#1
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Deerhead cantilevers question.
Has anyone put these on an '85 Trek 620? And if so, any issues? I'm still on 27" wheels, but thinking about going to 700c, so interested in both experiences. Thanks.
#2
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From: North of Boston
Bikes: Kona Dawg, Surly 1x1, Karate Monkey, Rockhopper, Crosscheck , Burley Runabout,
What are your current brakes? Going from 27" to 700C the rims will be slightly smaller, so the brakes will need to reach down more 5-10? mms. Pics might be helpful. The mechanics section might get some more hits than here. FYI
#3
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Going from 27 to 700 c can be an issue with cantilevers as they may lack the needed adjustability. If you own the cantilevers, I'd just try them out.
#5
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From: Denver, CO
Bikes: 1966 Carlton, 197X MKM, 1983 Trek 620, 1988 Schwinn High Sierra, 1995 DBR Axis Ti, 1999 Waterford, 2016 DBR Release, 2017 Surly Travelers Check
Change is about 4-5mm from 27-700c.
One thing to keep in mind is some tourers in the 80s had narrower spacing between the canti posts than modern cantis or mtb cantis of the era. This makes the pads too close together (i.e. they hit the rim and can't be adjusted further out).
Only way to know on your particular model is to try them out.
One thing to keep in mind is some tourers in the 80s had narrower spacing between the canti posts than modern cantis or mtb cantis of the era. This makes the pads too close together (i.e. they hit the rim and can't be adjusted further out).
Only way to know on your particular model is to try them out.
#7
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Yep, I'm aware that some frames adapt easier than others. I don't have the cantis yet, asking before buying, in case someone knew for sure. And no 700c wheels right now either. The 620 is my only bike now, and probably the last one I "need", lol.
Thanks again, and I bet someone here knows, but just hasn't seen this thread yet.
Thanks again, and I bet someone here knows, but just hasn't seen this thread yet.
#8
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From: Denver, CO
Bikes: 1966 Carlton, 197X MKM, 1983 Trek 620, 1988 Schwinn High Sierra, 1995 DBR Axis Ti, 1999 Waterford, 2016 DBR Release, 2017 Surly Travelers Check
Yep, I'm aware that some frames adapt easier than others. I don't have the cantis yet, asking before buying, in case someone knew for sure. And no 700c wheels right now either. The 620 is my only bike now, and probably the last one I "need", lol.
Thanks again, and I bet someone here knows, but just hasn't seen this thread yet.
Thanks again, and I bet someone here knows, but just hasn't seen this thread yet.
#9
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I had an '85 Trek 520 I converted to 700c. I can't remember what the issue was with a more modern Shimano cantilever, I ended up quite happy with the old style Dia-Compe cantilevers that were standard spec for that bike.
#10
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Bikes: Schwinn Voyageur SP | Sekine SHS-271 | Wabi Special
As others have mentioned, it can be variable for a lot of frames. I had a hell of a time converting my '83 Voyageur frame to 700c. If it wasn't the pad height adjustment that was the issue, it was the spacing between the cantilever posts on the fork that was.
I tried: Dia Compe 980, Shimano Altus (returned to LBS), and Tektro CR720's (returned to LBS). The Dia Compe's came the closest, but the pad angle was still not good enough for loaded touring IMO.
Finally, I shelled out for Shimano CX70's. Instead of using the supplied spacers (which came in 3 sizes), I modified them using conventional brake spacers (the ones that come on most v-brake pads) to get them just right. In the end, I got the best braking power possible--and brakes that look great and work well with road brake levers.
Now, you may not need to troubleshoot like I did because who knows where your canti posts are mounted. Maybe by '85 they were starting to mount the posts more in-between 700c+27" height?
I tried: Dia Compe 980, Shimano Altus (returned to LBS), and Tektro CR720's (returned to LBS). The Dia Compe's came the closest, but the pad angle was still not good enough for loaded touring IMO.
Finally, I shelled out for Shimano CX70's. Instead of using the supplied spacers (which came in 3 sizes), I modified them using conventional brake spacers (the ones that come on most v-brake pads) to get them just right. In the end, I got the best braking power possible--and brakes that look great and work well with road brake levers.
Now, you may not need to troubleshoot like I did because who knows where your canti posts are mounted. Maybe by '85 they were starting to mount the posts more in-between 700c+27" height?






