Happy Feet

Even if, worst case scenario, you can't get it going, a new 7 speed freewheel is about $16 dollars and a used Al rear wheel should be pretty common as well. I just gave one to a friend who is reverting an e bike back to manual. Coops or CL will have some.

nick_ander

That all makes me feel better. It is going into the shop to get tuned up on Monday. I will have them check it out. Thanks.

Aubergine 

Nick, I bought a Trek 930 that had been used for long tours. It was pretty good with the stock handlebars, but I rebuilt it with Nashbar trekking bars and used it for long rides. It was quite nice! So you made a good choice.

As for tires, I also have 1.5" tires (35mm) and they work fine for heavily loaded rides. If I were in your shoes, I'd ride those tires until they die.

gemini

Part of the problem may be that that 85 bucks is a bit of an illusion. I don't think you overpaid, but there's a reason why that bike cost only $85, as you have found out by now. A bicycle is basically all moving parts that do wear out or at least require maintenance. A decent new touring bike costs probably $700 at a minimum, and you'll probably get a working build for quite a bit less out of the Trek, but it does take time and effort.

I've also been annoyed by the cost of panniers and camping gear that I use probably three times a year. I've been able to lend them to some family members so they've got a bit more use that way, but still. The solution would be to have enough of a local community to share things with, but I haven't put any effort into finding those people. The ones I know have been on tour with me, so they need the equipment the same time I do...

Arvadaman

Whenever I bought an MTB to do a touring conversion, I always assumed I was only buying the frame and fork. If I could reuse any of the other parts, that was a plus.

After returning to cycling after 40, I came to the realization that no company would be crazy enough to sell a bike the way I wanted it configured and stay in business. So, I started with the frame I wanted and learned the skills to replace all the other parts to my desires.

That is why I like MTB conversions like this.

Yes, it will take some additional money but you get the exact bicycle you want to ride. Not the bike that came from the factory at at a predetermined price point.

Happy Feet

I would agree that converting an mtb can be a thrifty solution with the caveat that it does require one to be able to do some work themselves and know how to hunt for parts.

But that's the way it is with most things. If you want the latest technology, new and someone else to do the work, you had better have deeper pockets. Saving money usually comes with a compromise of one of those three.

Arvadaman

Agreed. I like to do my own work. I have a vested interest that it is done the way I want it. On the hand, I only have myself to blame.

I also do not feel I need the latest and greatest so it works for me.

nick_ander

I wanted to do a conversion for a few reasons. I am a fan of antique and vintage things, I can start with a small price tag and add things over time to spread out the cost, recycling an older bike saves on waste.

I don't know a lot about bikes yet, but I will learn fairly quick. I just dropped it off at the shop for a tune up. I will throw on some new tires and that puts me on the road for the rest of the year. This winter I can do a complete over haul. That will get me familiar with working on a bike.

I live in an area with a lot of really steep hills. After a couple of short pedals to get a feel for the bike, I think I may need to gear it a little lower. It is an 18 speed rather than 21. What would be my options here and what is everyone's opinions of those options?

Aubergine 

Take a good picture of the drive side of the bike and post it. Also, what is the number of teeth in your small chainring and large rear cog?

nick_ander

I will as soon as I get the bike back from the shop. Thanks.

nick_ander

Here are the pics. For some reason I thought I only had two in the front, not three. I don't think I was able to shift there, so I didn't even realize it. Now with the tune up I am able to smoothly shift over all of the gears.

jefnvk

You can probably fit a 7 speed freewheel back there, otherwise you can find 6 speeds in the 30+ tooth range. I had to add a washer to the right side of my axle when I did the conversion, to allow the chain bit of clearance from the frame, but otherwise seems good. YMMV.

If you don't want to try 7 speed, something like this, $9 for 14-34: https://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...SABEgKCEfD_BwE

nick_ander

I like that last idea. That might make for a nice winter upgrade.

Arvadaman

The other option is to go from the stock 48-38-28 down to a 42-32-22 on the front if you find that the stock gearing is too high.

I have lots of hills where I live and have done this on a number of my bikes.

That would take you down to about a 20 GI low gear with the existing freewheel.

Arvadaman

Before you do anything to the gearing of the bike, you should ride it a little while.

With the tune up, see how the bike handles and see if the gears work for you as is.

Once you have a little experience with the bike, then plan your modifications.

Arvadaman

As the gearing stands right now, your bike with the 48/38/28 front and the 14-28 rear, it has a low of 25.8 GI and a high of 88.3 GI.

For comparison, the Trek 520 from 1988 came with a 50/44/28 front and a 14-28 six speed rear. It has a low of 27.1 GI and a high of 96.7 GI.

If you change to the Mega range freewheel in the rear, you go to a low of 22.5 GI and a high of 88.3 GI. You only change the ratio on the lowest gear. The low gear, even with the 34 cog, is still higher than changing to a 42/32/22 crankset.

The 6-speed 14-34 freewheel is less at $10 but you may need a new rear derailleur at $30 because the current rear derailleur probably does not have the capacity to handle 34 teeth cogs. Also, a new chain at about $15 and labor.

If you change to a 44/32/22 front crankset with the existing rear, the change would be to a low of 20.2 GI and a high of 77.3 GI. The decrease is about 5 GI lower across all the gear ranges.

It would be more costly. You would need the new crank at about $45, a new bottom cartridge bottom bracket at about $20, a chain at about $15, and labor. Hopefully, you would be able to reuse the front derailleur and just move it down for the smaller crankset. If not, a new front derailleur might be needed.

Just some things to consider.

nick_ander

So, what I hear you saying is "Stronger legs might be the cheapest option." I think I might give that option a shot for awhile and see what happens. I could also lighten my "personal load" too. I think that might make a difference as well. Thanks for the detailed info. It helps.

Aubergine 

Actually, I have bikes with similar gearing. My Old Peugeot No. 1 has a 46/38/26 crank with (I think) a 14-30 on the rear. That is ample for my riding, and Seattle is hilly.

The 26 is as low a gear as will fit on my old cranks, but yours can fit down to 22. What I suggest is that you make ONE change to your bike, and that is to change your small chainring to a 24 or 22. There is no need to change your other chainrings OR the rear cogs.

Arvadaman

What I am getting at is that you have somewhat low gears as the bike is currently geared.

Lower than the Trek 520 that was made in 1998, oddly enough.

Some people are ok with gears in the range you have now, some prefer much lower gears.

Since it now has been tuned up and you seemed to indicate that you may not have had full access to all your gears, I would ride it for a while and see what you think of the current configuration.

Take some time, save up some cash for modifications and decide what your objectives are. Do you need lower gears for the terrain you plan to ride, heavy loads while touring, or are the current gears adequate?

If you decide to change out gears, you have some available options but take time to explore the benefits and costs that fit your circumstances.

xeltifon

The chainstays on my Trek 900 were getting rubbed with a knobby 2.0, but the same tire fits the front fork fine. I've got a knobby 1.75 on it now, and it works beautifully. Of course i do feel rather odd riding around on two different sized tires, but it'll work just fine 'til one blows, i figure.