![]() |
Dynamos
hey, thought about the electronics forums but though you guys would have more experience. Looking into a dynamo. I found a couple that use the chain (gear and a guide) on the back of the frame. I found a couple that are a front hub unit. Any exerience with these, any other options? What is working well for you guys for the long hauls.
I am primarily looking to power my phone for GPS. also wanting to be able to power a front and rear light as backup. was hoping to run it through a small pass through battery. That said i trust equipment, like a dynamo, more than a battery, less of a disposable item. update 9-5-2017 Well for now I am going to HAVE to get a battery pack pronto. Did a 34 mile ride today started at 98% was down to 10% by the time I got home, thats no good. |
Front hub dynamos work very well. I have two SON dynamos and an SP. They work well to charge my front and rear lights. I have not tried them for charging other gadgets.
|
Front hub dynamos are the best.
There are other options: Rear hub dynamos are almost as good, just harder to connect up, being less accessible. Also not nearly as common. Side wall dynamos; they push a little wheel against the side of the tire. Easy to install. It feels like they slow the bike down. Bottom bracket dynamos: they fit where the kickstand goes, and they push a little wheel against the tread of the tire. Basically a more attractive alternative to the side wall dynamo. I've had bad luck with the ones made by Sanyo in the 80's. The Soubitez one seems okay. Pioneer used to make a dynamo that attached to the left side of the rear hub, basically turning it into a hub dynamo. Cool item, not available now. There are also flashing lights that get power from a magnet in the spokes... google "Reelight." There are a few other clever dynamo options... chain driven dynamos... geared systems that attach to the front hub... you see them on eBay. I have no experience. |
I too have hub dynamos, German Schmidt is more reliable ... than the cheaper. Shimano.
6v,3w.. there are 2.4w headlight only ones too. battery tail lights are low current demand. Seen, a mention of a cassette dynamo rear hub, from Shimano, never in person or general bike shop parts supplier's offerings. Target marked probably tadpole recumbent trikes .. .... |
I've been using front hub dynamos for years. No problems.
The only reason I've ever considered another typo of dynamo is when considering a wider hub for a fat bike. Although now I think there may be a couple of dynamos available in other widths, or, at least, I think some manufacturer was discussing it. But if your front hub spacing is standard, I'd go with a hub dynamo. |
Originally Posted by Shadowx
(Post 19830256)
any other options?
I pack a small flashlight - useful for all kinds of touring situations. For the rare twilight ride, I have a mount. |
True, High summer, in the 45th parallel area & North or, in Austral summer, south..
there is plenty of daylight time .. get started early ride to lunch pick up camp food and stop before dark .. battery headlight that can function, double, as a camp flashlight should be fine.. September its starting to get darker earlier.. here. |
Originally Posted by tcs
(Post 19831733)
On a touring bike? Well, how much touring (not commuting, not randonneuring - there are other, better forums for those fun things to do with a bike) are you going to do in the dark?
I pack a small flashlight - useful for all kinds of touring situations. For the rare twilight ride, I have a mount. For the OP, hub dynamos seem to be the most widely available, and suitable for the majority of uses. Velological make a lightweight rim dynamo, which has the advantage that you can turn it off (or at least I think you can). You also don't need a wheel rebuild to fit one. Possibly this option may become more widely used in future, but right now the hub type have the ascendency. |
I have two dyno's Schmidt and Shimano on two Surly touring bikes. I am addicted to iPhone and Garmin GPS, because I can get lost in my own driveway. I use the dyno's to keep a small battery pack charged, and this in turn charges my gizmo's. The dyno's also provide power to head and tail lights as needed.
|
My Sturmey Archer XL-FDD has 22,000+ miles, 4,200 on tour, with only a sealed bearing change at 17,000. Been set and forget the whole time for both the power and drum brake, zero busted spokes too. It has near zero effect on speed. Vietnam in winter needs lights every day, they are on 100% of the time now anyway. My hub cost about $130 for 100% reliability. Only SA hubs are easily serviceable. Those other brands with loose bearings are goofy IMO. Using battery lights is a laughable concept. Rim rub gizmos are 100% STUPID.
|
No need to insult people who find something else functional. Batteries work for me. Personally I'm not interested in dynamos, mostly $$ & wt. But to each their own.
|
Front Hub
Shadow, you don't say what you intend to use your dynamo for - that info would help the replies, I'm sure.
I use a Son 28 front hub dynamo on my touring wheel, coupled to a front light and a cycle2charge unit to charge electronics. I don't use it for a rear light, simply because the cabling would be too messy, althought he power output would be more than enough. I prefer not to charge my electronics directly from the hub, instead using a battery pack to charge from the dynamo, then charge the electronics from that. Until recently, the hub was a luxury in that I didn't really need it because there was always the opportunity to charge my pack at a wall. But for the last few months I've been testing the "system" using only the dynamo and it works fine. I can generate enough power to charge my new toy (GPS), my phone and my kindle. Hope this helps Frank |
I don't have a hub dynamo but have been using side wall dynamos ever since I was a child. I commute by bike and only need good lights in winter or when I get home late. So far I have shied away in spending the big bucks on a new front wheel with hub dynamo. Yes the hub dynamo has less resistance but both types deliver 3W and two years ago I changed my lights to B&M lights. On the front I am using a B&M Lumotec IQ Cyo which works great with a side wall dynamo.
|
Glad you found a sidewall bottle dynamo that did not slip in the rain, on a wet tire..
|
Originally Posted by HobbesOnTour
(Post 19833574)
Shadow, you don't say what you intend to use your dynamo for - that info would help the replies, I'm sure.
I use a Son 28 front hub dynamo on my touring wheel, coupled to a front light and a cycle2charge unit to charge electronics. I don't use it for a rear light, simply because the cabling would be too messy, althought he power output would be more than enough. I prefer not to charge my electronics directly from the hub, instead using a battery pack to charge from the dynamo, then charge the electronics from that. Until recently, the hub was a luxury in that I didn't really need it because there was always the opportunity to charge my pack at a wall. But for the last few months I've been testing the "system" using only the dynamo and it works fine. I can generate enough power to charge my new toy (GPS), my phone and my kindle. Hope this helps Frank |
Originally Posted by Shadowx
(Post 19834016)
I was hoping to run a dynamo to a small pass through battery mostly to run my phone which i am using for gps currently. I also want to be able to power front and rear lights if needed. one is none, 2 is one. i want backups.
|
Originally Posted by Shadowx
(Post 19834016)
I was hoping to run a dynamo to a small pass through battery mostly to run my phone which i am using for gps currently. I also want to be able to power front and rear lights if needed. one is none, 2 is one. i want backups.
an external battery pack, while you ride.. Unless you add another dynamo, such as towing an extrawheel trailer with a second front wheel with a second dynamo-hub. :innocent: |
Originally Posted by justbill
(Post 19833569)
No need to insult people who find something else functional. Batteries work for me. Personally I'm not interested in dynamos, mostly $$ & wt. But to each their own.
|
$.02 dynos are great for commuter bike lights. Always there and reliable. I have them on both my bikes.
For touring on a budget I'd be inclined to stick with an extra battery pack and use devices judiciously. Batteries can be rechargeable like your phone. Nighttime riding is unlikely while touring and batteries last a long time in tailights. That said it's good info hearing from folks who use theirs for charging a battery or phone. |
Originally Posted by LeeG
(Post 19834408)
$.02 dynos are great for commuter bike lights. Always there and reliable. I have them on both my bikes.
For touring on a budget I'd be inclined to stick with an extra battery pack and use devices judiciously. Batteries can be rechargeable like your phone. Nighttime riding is unlikely while touring and batteries last a long time in tailights. That said it's good info hearing from folks who use theirs for charging a battery or phone. https://translate.googleusercontent....eOsuf7s8abdHdQ edit: re reading the page I'm thinking it won't simultaneously charge and power a light. |
Might as well throw my experience up. I've got a Garmin 1000, iphone, front and rear Niterider lights with internal rechargeable batteries on my touring bike, with a Son28 front hub, Sinewave Revolution converter, and a standard USB power pack. I run the Garmin 100% of the time and poke at the phone a lot for navigation and photos. Lights aren't for night - but for inattentive stupid and texting drivers using strobe modes when I feel it necessary (I noticed an immediate decline in attempted murder by Uber drivers on my San Francisco commute when I did).
The battery pack has a charge-through capability, though when I plug the hub into the battery pack and other devices into the pack, nothing actually gains charge, just holds more or less steady. Must be some efficiency loss in the pass-through, because anything I plug directly into the converter gains charge steadily. So I mainly charge the Garmin until it gets 100%, switch to charging the phone until it's adequate (going to airplane mode and/or turning off Bluetooth and wifi speeds it up a lot), top up the powerpack, back and forth as needed. I usually unplug from the converter on climbs, as below ~8mph it doesn't produce enough power to charge anything, but the drag is unquestionably noticeable. The lights, I tend to charge from the powerpack at the campground (or a wall outlet when such luxury is available). At the moment I'm starting to build a waterproof switch circuit that lets me switch from off, to Garmin, to two other USB outs to consolidate and simplify the works. And before you tell me to simplify by throwing it all out - save your breath. |
Originally Posted by Happy Feet
(Post 19834208)
Squeezebox?
|
Originally Posted by fourfa
(Post 19834477)
M.......
At the moment I'm starting to build a waterproof switch circuit that lets me switch from off, to Garmin, to two other USB outs to consolidate and simplify the works. And before you tell me to simplify by throwing it all out - save your breath. |
Originally Posted by edthesped
(Post 19837452)
Are you 3d printing the housing? If so care to share the design? I've been kicking something around along the lines of the AWOL rig that would go in the bar end but first I need to acquire a 3D printer for prototyping.
But you certainly don't need to acquire your own 3D printer, nor is one you acquire likely to be great for this purpose. Lately every UPS Store I go into has one, and prints from Shapeways and Sculpteo etc are very reasonable. Nonetheless, if I end up with something shareable, I'd be happy to do so |
Originally Posted by Shadowx
(Post 19830256)
any other options?
Or for anyone who wants to let their inner geek out to run wild, there's the AeroCharge. |
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:10 PM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.