![]() |
Originally Posted by chrisx
(Post 20003428)
Chains do not last 15,000 miles, they might last 1,500 miles, maybe.
IMO, 15,000 miles is a big ask for a chain, but 1,500 miles is a really short life for a chain. On another note, I am not sure why but it has seemed to me that chains (and other drivetrain components) wear much faster when used for commuting than for long tours. Maybe mine just get neglected more at home than on tour. That said I don't think I have ever had a chain wear out anywhere near as fast as 1,500 miles even in commuting usage. |
Originally Posted by staehpj1
(Post 20004127)
On another note, I am not sure why but it has seemed to me that chains (and other drivetrain components) wear much faster when used for commuting than for long tours. Maybe mine just get neglected more at home than on tour. That said I don't think I have ever had a chain wear out anywhere near as fast as 1,500 miles even in commuting usage.
|
Originally Posted by prathmann
(Post 20004142)
I wouldn't be surprised if the typical city streets of a commute have more loose grit on them than the country roads frequently used on long tours. I'm also less likely to be near the debris-strewn edge of the road while touring.
-as you say, debris, sand etc that can get onto chains -does the person allow excess lube to sit on chain, collecting said stuff -do you have fenders, effectively reducing stuff thrown up onto front chainring area -how often you lube, how often you keep chain not messy (regular 5 second rag wiping after a days ride) -do you lube directly onto all the old crap thats accumulated on the chain (I know folks who do this) -do you wipe down the chainrings and floss the cassette regularly to keep gritty gunk from accumulating, which will come into contact with the chain and teeth. -how much you ride in the rain -how much you ride on dirt roads -what kind of dirt, there is super fine stuff that gets into everything, there is muddy stuff that can go all over.... -are you a grinder, big strong guy putting lots of force into your chain -how much you cross chain regularly and for long periods and lets face it, some people just don't ever think of all this stuff, or care. With me, even with my regular commuting, I have a garage whre I park my bikes and I have teh habit of wiping down and lubing stuff regularly, the same frequency as on tour, or rather to put it a diff way, I observe and react according to the riding conditions Ive been in and have a place that makes it easy to do quick drivetrain maintenance when its needed, perhaps more than someone who parks their bike outside their appartment or in their hallway or stairwell. |
Originally Posted by gauvins
(Post 19998387)
Hey! Thanks for the reference. [MENTION=21724]cyccommute[/MENTION] writes that true mineral spirits DO NOT interact with metals, but chloride solutions (substitutes for mineral spirits) do. This is why you read here and there negative advice wrt Simple Green and other mineral spirits substitutes.
As a cleaner, however, even soap and water wouldn't have too much detrimental effect on chain longevity. Soap and water is mostly ineffective and inefficient. Mineral spirits requires much less volume and fewer steps.
Originally Posted by gauvins
(Post 19998387)
[MENTION=21724]cyccommute[/MENTION] has written fairly extensively on the topic of chain maintenance. I'd rather have him explain again if it were useful, but let me try to summarize. He removes factory lubrication with solvents, puts dry-lube. He suggests that his chains last for several thousands of miles and believes that this longevity is due to the fact that dry lube doesn't attract dirt as much as wet lube, so there is no grinding paste on/inside the chain.
This approach makes perfect sense for commuters, maybe slightly less for extended tours where good dry lubes may be difficult to procure. I am convinced that there is less grinding from grit inside the chain because my lubricant of choice doesn't attract and hold the grit but I haven't noticed any significant extension of chain life. I may not get as much life as possible out of the chain but chain life is about average to what others report and I don't spend all my time cleaning up a mess. These pictures are typical of what my drivetrain looks like all the time. What's not to love?:rolleyes: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4415/...1a01145e_k.jpgIMG_1156 by Stuart Black, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4295/...2fbe18ad_k.jpgIMG_1153 by Stuart Black, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4313/...13b6ed0f_k.jpgIMG_0365 by Stuart Black, on Flickr You can't really see how clean the chain is in the picture of my orange bike but notice that my chain stay is clean and visible. This is about midway into the chain life. It was taken in July after a winter, spring and summer of riding. More importantly, look at my fingers after handling the chain https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4302/...caaf973b_k.jpg2013-07-26 08.06.29 by Stuart Black, on Flickr I don't need to wear a hazmat suit to work on my bike. If I have a flat, I'm not going to get grease and crud on everyone within a 3 mile radius either. It's not perfect but it works for me. As to gauvins' original question, I wouldn't worry about it. Chains are cheap. Ride it. Lube it when it needs it (even oil based lubes need to be refreshed after rain) and, basically, forget about it. Even on a very long tour, I wouldn't obsess over a chain. It's a consumable like brake pads and tires. |
Originally Posted by staehpj1
(Post 20004127)
IMO, 15,000 miles is a big ask for a chain, but 1,500 miles is a really short life for a chain.
|
Originally Posted by gauvins
(Post 20004303)
Just to clarify, once more, 15 000 miles is what I'd expect for a pair of chains in rotation at or slightly above 1% stretch. That's 7,500 miles per chain.
|
stuart, get a rag floss job on that cassette, its filthy!
and as for carrying an extra chain on a trip, they are so heavy and I can't see going somewhere where I wouldnt be able to find a chain at some point. I guess on some far off trip done by some folks, but not in the places I have ever toured in. And in any case, the longest trip I ever did was 3000km and the chain was new at start, and went about 5000km total before I did the preemptive change when it got to the 1/16 mark. |
Originally Posted by chrisx
(Post 19998153)
Is the MSR allowed on the plane?
mine was , MSR fuel bottle empty, & rinsed so passed the petrol vapor sniff test ... :innocent: |
Originally Posted by staehpj1
(Post 20003110)
The bike I did the ST with carrying an ultralight load was a 7 speed,
Originally Posted by saddlesores
(Post 20001981)
worth it to extend the life of the much more expensive cassettes and
chain rings? |
Originally Posted by djb
(Post 20004433)
stuart, get a rag floss job on that cassette, its filthy!
|
Originally Posted by gauvins
(Post 20004303)
Just to clarify, once more, 15 000 miles is what I'd expect for a pair of chains in rotation at or slightly above 1% stretch. That's 7,500 miles per chain.
Bikerumor Shimano Chainwear Challenge: The Results Results: https://gzmyu4ma9b-flywheel.netdna-s...al-results.png https://www.bikerumor.com/2013/02/19...e-the-results/ https://www.bikerumor.com/2011/03/16...ain-wear-test/ 1,500 miles is for a well taken care of 11 speed chain It took a while to find this old test |
Originally Posted by chrisx
(Post 20005758)
Do you replace all drive train parts at the same time? Why do Sram, Shimano, KMC, Park Tool, and all other bicycle tool manufactures and drive train part manufactures see it different than you?
|
Nothing to contribute. Most are already posted. I'm just here to learn.
|
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:07 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.