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Esperance to Albany [Western Australia] 750 kms in 10 Days

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Esperance to Albany [Western Australia] 750 kms in 10 Days

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Old 01-04-18, 07:33 AM
  #26  
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oops indeed. Being Canadian I have no clue, but there really must be dangerous snakes then for you to detour 42k. Looking at the photo, it appears that you could wade across it with bike over your head.
Accent on "appears".
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Old 01-04-18, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by djb
oops indeed. Being Canadian I have no clue, but there really must be dangerous snakes then for you to detour 42k. Looking at the photo, it appears that you could wade across it with bike over your head.
Accent on "appears".
Well I'm sure most Aussies wouldn't know what to do with a bear and would have little knowledge of their behaviour except a rumoured propensity to sh.. in the woods thus I imagine most Aussies visiting the Americas/Canada miss most of the amazing views due to looking at the ground convinced they are about to stand on something nasty at the next step.
Ask an Aussie his most memorable views and vistas of his Canadian holiday and his commentary will likely be on the unusual array and colours of Nike footwear.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tiger_snake

Tiger Snakes Habitat:

Tiger snakes are found in coastal environments, wetlands, and creeks where they often form territories. Areas with an abundance of prey can support large populations. The species' distribution extends from the south of Western Australia through to South Australia, Tasmania,including Savage River National Park up through Victoria, and New South Wales. Its common habitat includes the coastal areas of Australia.

"the mortality rate from untreated bites is reported to be between 40 and 60%"

https://australianmuseum.net.au/tiger-snake

"Danger to humans and first aid
The snake's large size, often aggressive defence and toxic venom make it extremely dangerous to humans. Although generally shy and preferring escape over conflict, a cornered tiger snake will put on an impressive threat display by holding its forebody in a tense, loose curve with the head slightly raised and pointed at the offender. It will hiss loudly as it inflates and deflates its body, and if provoked further will lash out and bite forcefully. The venom of the tiger snake is strongly neurotoxic and coagulant, and anyone suspected of being bitten should seek medical attention immediately."

Australia's 10 most dangerous snakes - Australian Geographic

Aushikers trip took him to some very isolated spots with the area being renown for a high population of snakes.
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Old 01-04-18, 06:34 PM
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yup, no screwing around with those suckers, and being cautious obviously is the wisest thing to do.
thanks for that rif
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Old 01-04-18, 06:59 PM
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I have had the "pleasure" of a tiger snake displaying this behaviour when I was bushwalking:

"a cornered tiger snake will put on an impressive threat display by holding its forebody in a tense, loose curve with the head slightly raised and pointed at the offender"

except my tiger was fully erect ready to strike. Lets just say I remeasured my gaiter length

The other issue was my bike loaded up weighs in excess of 25 kg and I found out later there was another couple of lakes to cross. Even this was fairly deep by the looks in the middle. Probably getting to chest high. Not sure I would have able to carry the bike across nor what state the other lakes where in. To many variables to potentially make a bad situation worse.
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Old 01-05-18, 11:47 PM
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Day 4 [Part 3]: Quagi Beach to Munglinup Beach Caravan Park - 78.4 km - Elapsed Time 8 hours.



Taking a break on Springdale Road whilst completing my 42 km detour around the Jerdacuttup Nature Reserve. Springdale Road eventually becomes a bitumen road before intersecting with the Hopetoun-Ravensthorpe Road.



Christmas in the bush? Not sure what to make of this finding on Springdale Road at all. It was just in the "middle of nowhere" so to speak; no driveway or housing nearby.



The ubiquitous floodway sign; common as in the West Aussie bush. The only problem is, the road is, eh going uphill here. Whoops! You see floodway's are normally low points where waterways cross the road.



Made Hopetoun. Had to snap an image of the welcome to Hopetoun "art work." The town is actually a nice friendly place to visit; well worth it.

That ends day four.
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Old 01-06-18, 05:47 AM
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Nearly 80k w with a bunch on pavement made me think of this comparison-- question, do you think riding the fatbike with 4 inch tires weighing 50lbs on pavement or hard dirt takes the same effort as a maybe 80lb road touring bike with 35 or 40mm roadish tires?

Christmas decorations in the middle of nowhere, curious indeed.
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Old 01-06-18, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by djb
Nearly 80k w with a bunch on pavement made me think of this comparison-- question, do you think riding the fatbike with 4 inch tires weighing 50lbs on pavement or hard dirt takes the same effort as a maybe 80lb road touring bike with 35 or 40mm roadish tires?
I don't feel like I was putting in more effort riding the fatbike, but my speed is noticable slower on it. So I would say same effort, but reduced output if that makes sense?
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Old 01-06-18, 08:51 PM
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makes perfect sense. I've kind of always figured that I put out the same effort more or less in whatever biking I do, on whatever bike. Sure on short rides I push harder, but touring, doesnt matter the bike, I pretty much just instinctively go with an effort that I am comfortable doing for long periods, and the speed changes from bike to bike, and diff loads on a bike etc, and of course, terrain.

so yes I see what you mean.
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Old 01-08-18, 04:56 PM
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Day 6 [Part 1]: Hopetoun to Wild Camp [Fitzgerald River National Park] - 61.4 km - Elapsed Time 8 3/4 hours.



Heading out of Hopetoun on Hamersly Drive and before the "fun" started I was distracted by the first of two sand monitors for the day. As it turned out it was timely as got to chat to a couple of local bicycle riders (roadies); the only riders I met on the ride.



Having passed Culham Inlet I paused for a moment to take in East Mount Barren and Barrons Beach. East Mount Barren stands at 311 m. Thankfully the road swings around to the left of it.



Having passed Culham Inlet I paused for a moment to look back and capture an image of its peacefulness.
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Old 01-10-18, 07:17 AM
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Day 6 [Part 2]: Hopetoun to Wild Camp [Fitzgerald River National Park] - 61.4 km - Elapsed Time 8 3/4 hours.



Time for the "fun" to start. I actually surprised myself and rode all but about 50 metres of the climb. Mind you that was about it for the day



Looking back to Hopetoun from the foot of East Mt Barren. The view takes in Barron Beach and Culham Inlet. The ride down the other side was to come … yippee!



East Mount Barren close up. From here I rolled down from the foot of the mountain deeper into Fitzgerald River National Park to participate in its good and not so good aspects.
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Old 01-10-18, 08:39 AM
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didnt expect to see a gradient like that in any of your trip pictures, thats for sure.
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Old 01-10-18, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by djb
didnt expect to see a gradient like that in any of your trip pictures, thats for sure.
There was another climb of similar gradient later in the day. Too stuffed then to photograph the sign

I did one or two pushes off beaches that would have been even steeper. Not helped in one case by the climb out being a muddy creek
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Old 01-11-18, 06:28 PM
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Day 6 [Part 3]: Hopetoun to Wild Camp [Fitzgerald River National Park] - 61.4 km - Elapsed Time 8 3/4 hours.



Looking west across the expanse of the Fitzgerald River National Park with Mylies Beach in the foreground. My plan at this point was to pretty much follow the coast to the western boundary of the park. Oh for the plans of mice and men.



Having entered the Fitzgerald River National Park the Hakea Victoria or more commonly known Royal Hakea started to dominate the landscape. Regretfully I was out of wildflower season so no flowering specimens where to be seen. The Noongar name for the plant is Tallyongut. They can grow to around 3 metres tall. This was one of the tallest I saw today.



Now at Hamersley Inlet and contemplating the Hakea Trail as a way to head west along the cost. Note the steps: they were the easy ones. The log stairs where to come and come and come …
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Old 01-11-18, 11:37 PM
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Day 6 [Part 4]: Hopetoun to Wild Camp [Fitzgerald River National Park] - 61.4 km - Elapsed Time 8 3/4 hours.



To reach the Hakea Trail proper one must first get to the beach at the inlet. Today there is a trail to provide, eh, easy access. When I walked this area in 2008 we were on our hands and knees with backpacks getting through the bush to the beach! Oh how things have changed. This is however really a walking trail and not at all ideal for bicycles: read log steps and more steps and more steps.



Paused for a moment to take in the vista of the Hamersley Inlet. What is frustrating now, is that the 4WD track on the other side of the inlet is so obvious. I could have taken that track <smacks head>.



Made the inlet having survived the Hamersley Inlet Link Trail log steps.
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Old 01-14-18, 05:45 PM
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Day 6 [Part 4]: Hopetoun to Wild Camp [Fitzgerald River National Park] - 61.4 km - Elapsed Time 8 3/4 hours.



To reach the Hakea Trail proper one must first get to the beach at the inlet. Today there is a trail to provide, eh, easy access. When I walked this area in 2008 we were on our hands and knees with backpacks getting through the bush to the beach! Oh how things have changed. This is however really a walking trail and not at all ideal for bicycles: read log steps and more steps and more steps.



Paused for a moment to take in the vista of the Hamersley Inlet. What is frustrating now, is that the 4WD track on the other side of the inlet is so obvious. I could have taken that track <smacks head>.



Made the inlet having survived the Hamersley Inlet Link Trail log steps.



Made the beach at Hamersley Inlet. Paused to contemplate going on and battling the rock outcrops or turning back to take Plan C.
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Old 01-15-18, 06:03 PM
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Day 6 [Part 5]: Hopetoun to Wild Camp [Fitzgerald River National Park] - 61.4 km - Elapsed Time 8 3/4 hours.



Back out at the Hamersley Inlet day area pumping up the tyres in preparation for some road riding when this goanna came wandering by.



Now on the outskirts of the Fitzgerald River National Park and wild camping alongside a former firefighting water hole.



Day 6: Esperance to Albany: The Unconventional Ride. 750 km in 10 days. Now on the outskirts of the Fitzgerald River National Park and wild camping alongside a couple of firefighting water tanks.

Day 6 comes to an end.
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Old 01-15-18, 06:38 PM
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what, you didnt hit the dinosaur over the head with your pump and fry up some second breakfast? sheesh, wasted opportunity.
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Old 01-18-18, 07:21 AM
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Day 7 [Part 1]: Wild Camp [Fitzgerald River National Park] to Jerramungup - 92.9 km — 37 C - Elapsed Time 9 hours 41 minutes.

A big day today; 92.9 km, temperature in the shade, 37 C (GPS says 39 C but heck two degrees was not noticeable trust me) and nine hours and 41 minutes on the road.



This billabong in the Fitzgerald River National Park is a bit of a "mirage" in that it is cooling water but it is water with a catch; salt and more salt. No drinking water to be had here. Maybe good for a salty swim but that is about it.



The less than glorious Fitzgerald River where it crosses the Old Ongerup Road and enters the park. Very saline water so not suitable for drinking.



Late harvesting happening near Jacup. Saw my first harvesting equipment for the ride with this JCB Fastrac 3185 pulling a chaser bin down the South Coast Highway. I assume moving to the next harvesting location as the local farmers work fast to wrap up the season.

That is it for Day 7. The distance, the heat and really the riding locality did nothing to inspire much in the way of photography.
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Old 01-19-18, 06:43 PM
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Day 8 [Part 1]: Jerramungup to Bremer Bay - 87.2 km - Elapsed Time 6 hours 46 minutes.



I was too wiped out to take a "welcome to Jerramungup" photo the afternoon before so took it as I was leaving this morning as my official record of visiting.



Telecommunications are as important in the "bush" as they are in the city. This is the Gairdner River Exchange which provides telecommunications including mobile phone coverage, microwave repeater and I believe ADSL 2+.



Telecommunications are as important in the "bush" as they are in the city. This is the Gairdner River Exchange which provides telecommunications including mobile phone coverage, microwave repeater and I believe ADSL 2+.
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Old 01-21-18, 12:40 AM
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Day 8 [Part 2]: Jerramungup to Bremer Bay - 87.2 km - Elapsed Time 6 hours 46 minutes.



Leaving the South Coast Highway for the day and turning on to the curiously named Devils Creek Road which is a road train route; only baby road trains here but.



Good news. All access to the Fitzgerald River National Park via Devil Creek Road is open. Not that it mattered to me as I was turning off before entering the park.



Stopped on Devil Creek Road for a break. Took this photo as reflection on life on the farm in early summer.
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Old 01-23-18, 08:06 PM
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Day 8 [Part 3]: Jerramungup to Bremer Bay - 87.2 km - Elapsed Time 6 hours 46 minutes.



Playing with the big boys on Swamp Road. Found it best to pull over and let them pass even though the drivers were pretty good, with most of them slowing down for me.



Day 8: Esperance to Albany: The Unconventional Ride. 750 km in 10 days. Next stop Bremer Bay. The dirt was about to come to an end for the day with bitumen to be my friend whilst battling into headwinds through to Bremer. There is always something every day it seems to take the edge of the enjoyment of riding. BTW that water bag was repositioned



Made Bremer Bay and the chance for a decent night's sleep at the Bremer Bay Resort and to beat the incoming storm. Mind you they have an interesting concept of what a resort is . All good but and friendly folk. Bremer Bay is also a chance to resupply more so if coming in from or heading out to the Fitzgerald River National Park or bypassing some of the South Coast Highway.
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Old 01-24-18, 06:06 PM
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Day 09 Part 01 Bremer Bay to Wellstead - 86.2 km, Elapsed time: eight hours 21 minutes.

All bitumen roads and highway today. Decided to ride on past my planned camping spot to Wellstead as I was making much better progress than expected. All up 86.2 km in an elapsed time of eight hours and 21 minutes. Dawdled a bit today.



Leaving Bremer Bay with the storm clouds still omnipresence. I paused for a moment on the Borden-Bremer Bay Road to take in the Bremer Bay sand dunes and the storm clouds.





Fours hour after leaving Bremer Bay the storm clouds had gone and the sun was out. Still not enough drying happening to get the harvest going but. This small local farming operation was still on hold for the day when I rode past.
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Old 01-25-18, 11:20 PM
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Day 09 Part 02 Bremer Bay to Wellstead - 86.2 km, Elapsed time: eight hours 21 minutes.

All bitumen roads and highway today. Decided to ride on past my planned camping spot to Wellstead as I was making much better progress than expected. All up 86.2 km in an elapsed time of eight hours and 21 minutes. Dawdled a bit today.



Dropped into the Bush Chooks Café and Roadhouse [aka Boxwood Hill Roadhouse] for lunch. I initially wasn't too sure about the place but after seeking some local knowledge from the Head Chook, Jill Collier my view changed. Jill was most helpful and knowledgeable. I can highly recommend dropping in and spending a few dollars [the food is good too]; just remember to show an interest in the area



The Marra Bridge [#0892] spans the Pallinup River at the point where the South Coast Highway crosses the river. The bridge was built by Main Roads WA in 1962. It had been my intention to pull off here and head into the Pallinup Nature Reserve to camp for the night but as it was too early in the day I continued south taking some kilometres off tomorrow's ride.



The Pallinup at the point if flows under the South Coast Highway. It had been my intention to pull off here and head into the Pallinup Nature Reserve to camp for the night but as it was too early in the day I continued south taking some kilometres off tomorrow's ride.

Here ends Day 9. I camped at Wellstead Bush Camp in the end. Photos from Day 10 including the camp and Wellstead to follow.
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Old 01-27-18, 11:57 PM
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DAY 10 [POST 01] WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 13 - WELLSTEAD TO CHEYNES BEACH

A bit of bash for a while on the South Coast Highway before I was able to take a minor road which turned into a track [Google/Open Street Maps had it wrong so a bit of a re-routing required] and then beach for the remainder of the day. Today was the worse section of the South Coast Highway I experienced and I was well and truly glad to see the back of it. A total of 74.5 km and a total time on the bike of nine hours 21 minutes.



Sun rising over my camp site at the Wellstead Bush Camp, Wellstead. Basic campsite with a toilet and shower. Robb and Carolyn Davy are the hosts. A unpowered site is $10 for the night.





Wellstead Rural Services: general store, supplies, hot food, diner. Actually not bad takeaway food and handy for an emergency stock up. Pretty much it but for the locality.
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Old 01-28-18, 05:15 AM
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Cheyne's Beach but no Waychinicup for a swim?
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