Thru Axle on Touring Bikes
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 36
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thru Axle on Touring Bikes
I'm beginning to look at buying a new touring bike or frame. I wanted to "future proof" the bike as best as I can. I hear buzz about the use of thru axles on road bikes, particularly touring bikes. I know very little about them and how they might affect the longevity of a bike if I buy the "wrong" one now. But, it appears that Specialized is offering a 12x142 thru-axle on its new Diverge bike. But, most others it seems are still offering 135mm rear spacing for bikes with disc brakes.
So, my question is, does it make sense to stick with the bike I've got for another season to see which way the industry goes on this issue before buying? Or, is that a fool's bet, and I could be waiting another 5 years for the industry to figure out a standard for thru-axles?
As a bonus question, if I buy a steel frame, would a bike shop be able to convert a 135mm rear spacing to a thru-axle?
Many thanks for any input you have!
So, my question is, does it make sense to stick with the bike I've got for another season to see which way the industry goes on this issue before buying? Or, is that a fool's bet, and I could be waiting another 5 years for the industry to figure out a standard for thru-axles?
As a bonus question, if I buy a steel frame, would a bike shop be able to convert a 135mm rear spacing to a thru-axle?
Many thanks for any input you have!
#2
Banned
Its Done, I saw some last summer.. I live in a touring destination town..
No that its a Frame builders level of fabrication.. you order a frame made like that from the beginning..
regular QR axles are not going obsolete even though they are being put on the trendy highest level of bikes..
...
As a bonus question, if I buy a steel frame, would a bike shop be able to convert a 135mm rear spacing to a thru-axle?
regular QR axles are not going obsolete even though they are being put on the trendy highest level of bikes..
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 01-24-18 at 04:33 PM.
#3
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 16
Bikes: MEC Provincial 222 (Steel frame gravel bike), 1974 Raleigh Re-build (unknown model)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
So, my question is, does it make sense to stick with the bike I've got for another season to see which way the industry goes on this issue before buying? Or, is that a fool's bet, and I could be waiting another 5 years for the industry to figure out a standard for thru-axles?
Take a look at this video:
#4
Senior Member
I like thru axles on my fat bike, but don’t think they make any difference on a touring bike. I like swapping wheels between bikes, so QR makes more sense for me.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 11,094
Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.
Mentioned: 47 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3417 Post(s)
Liked 1,434 Times
in
1,119 Posts
I am sticking with 135mm conventional rear axles. I see no reason to switch for the rear. For the front, maybe there is a reason if you are running disc brake? The issue of the lips that hole a partially tightened wheel in the fork is where a through axle might make some sense.
My Lynskey has replaceable dropouts, there is a conversion kit I can buy to switch it to 142mm through axle. I think only some of their models are fitted that way, but I am not sure. Mine is their touring frame.
But, if all the frame manufactures start to switch, the rest of us might not have any choice in the matter later.
I think it is best to buy the frame you want that fits to your size. Then use the parts necessary to build on that. If that frame comes with a through axle, then do it that way but if it is 135mm conventional, go that route.
My Lynskey has replaceable dropouts, there is a conversion kit I can buy to switch it to 142mm through axle. I think only some of their models are fitted that way, but I am not sure. Mine is their touring frame.
But, if all the frame manufactures start to switch, the rest of us might not have any choice in the matter later.
I think it is best to buy the frame you want that fits to your size. Then use the parts necessary to build on that. If that frame comes with a through axle, then do it that way but if it is 135mm conventional, go that route.
#6
Senior Member
I say stick with regular 135 and 100 spaced wheels, as has been a standard for a Very long time and will continue to be readily available anywhere for a very long time. As mentioned, through axles have been around a while now. The big companies are just starting to realize they can put them on everything and move the industry to make more money. There's also a lack of standard with through axles. Maybe it'll get sorted out, maybe it won't. Everyone likes to try to come up with their own new "better" thing every year or two these days to have something to market and drive sales. If nothing else, I'd wait and see, but don't hold your breath for a standard to come along. Again, through axles have been around a while, and it's Still changing and "developing." That's my two cents on it.
Also, disk brakes work fine with quick release standard spacing. As a MTBer also, I can see why they developed through axle for MTBing. That puts a lot more stress on a fork than anything you're gonna do on the road, and it's nice to have a stiffer front end. No need for it on Any sort of road riding other than maybe trials bikes, but that's a different story.
Also, disk brakes work fine with quick release standard spacing. As a MTBer also, I can see why they developed through axle for MTBing. That puts a lot more stress on a fork than anything you're gonna do on the road, and it's nice to have a stiffer front end. No need for it on Any sort of road riding other than maybe trials bikes, but that's a different story.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 38,963
Mentioned: 210 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18269 Post(s)
Liked 15,185 Times
in
7,172 Posts
Subscribed.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: northern Deep South
Posts: 8,826
Bikes: Fuji Touring, Novara Randonee
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2568 Post(s)
Liked 1,889 Times
in
1,185 Posts
I say stick with regular 135 and 100 spaced wheels, as has been a standard for a Very long time and will continue to be readily available anywhere for a very long time. As mentioned, through axles have been around a while now. The big companies are just starting to realize they can put them on everything and move the industry to make more money. There's also a lack of standard with through axles. Maybe it'll get sorted out, maybe it won't. Everyone likes to try to come up with their own new "better" thing every year or two these days to have something to market and drive sales.
I don't know, through axle "standard" sounds a lot like bottom bracket "standard." If you buy into the latest and greatest, you have to cross your fingers and hope that parts will still be available (or something else can be fit into it) in five years.
If I were going to try to buy a "future-proof" bike, I think it'd have a conventional English BB. Oh, and 100/135 mm quick release wheels.
#9
Banned
Think about on the road spares, ? crash, damage a rim, your small town bike shop will not stock all possible components..
So you have to stay there for a special order to be delivered.. several days even with overnight shipping..
...
So you have to stay there for a special order to be delivered.. several days even with overnight shipping..
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 08-23-18 at 08:49 AM.
#10
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 13,227
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4230 Post(s)
Liked 3,841 Times
in
2,563 Posts
I like thru axles and think they are awesome for many many reasons and certainly if you have wheels built with good durable quality components by a capable wheel builder I wouldn't necessarily poo-poo them for touring. However if you do have a failure and need a new wheel you are more likely to be able to find a standard 135mm QR wheel.
#11
Senior Member
One benefit to the std rear spacing @ 135mm, on a steel bike at least, is you can run 130mm road hubs too.
I agreed w/pdlamb, future proof is what is known to work, std 100/130/135. All major manuf still make the hubs and will continue.
The only issue I've ran into is trying to find carbon forks, most of the new ones tend to be Through Axle.
The biggest issue I focus on is part commonality with your other bikes. If you have a cross bike and a MTB bike with TA's, I'd suggest doing that just so your wheels are swappable.
I agreed w/pdlamb, future proof is what is known to work, std 100/130/135. All major manuf still make the hubs and will continue.
The only issue I've ran into is trying to find carbon forks, most of the new ones tend to be Through Axle.
The biggest issue I focus on is part commonality with your other bikes. If you have a cross bike and a MTB bike with TA's, I'd suggest doing that just so your wheels are swappable.
#12
Senior Member
Real life story here. Out on tour and smoked the front wheel. Small po-dunk town with a used bike "shop", really just a guy selling fixed up bikes from his house. Installed used wheel, back on the road in no time. You won't be able to do that with a through axle. At least not for the next 20 years until they become common in the used bike market.
#13
Senior Member
I wouldn't characterize thru-axles as "high-end boutique components" any more. They are very common on MTBs nowadays, on all but the lowest-end bikes.
#14
Pokemon Master
I've got touring bikes with both. I have rim brakes on the QR bikes, and discs on the TA bike. The TA bike uses 15x100 on the front, which has been a common MTB standard for several years now. It also has a 12x142 on the rear, which has been a MTB standard for a while, and is starting to pop up on more road and cyclocross bikes. It's basically the same as a 135 wheel if you include the 6mm the axle protrudes from the lock nut on a QR rear wheel. One nice thing about TA is that it almost guarantees cartridge bearings, which are fairly easy to replace and carrying an extra set on tour is cheap and doesn't weigh much. Unlike cup and cone, if a race gets pitted, you can easily replace the whole bearing without having to swap hubs or replace an entire wheel. Another nice thing about TA is consistency in wheel placement and disc brake security.
OP can solve all of these problems by buying a Salsa or other brand with replaceable dropout plates. The Fargo comes in QR (steel build) or TA (carbon fork models), and can be converted either way with a dropout plate kit and fork swap.
OP can solve all of these problems by buying a Salsa or other brand with replaceable dropout plates. The Fargo comes in QR (steel build) or TA (carbon fork models), and can be converted either way with a dropout plate kit and fork swap.
#15
Banned
My LBS does not have any thru axle hub wheels hanging on a peg for instant replacement, when someone walks in..
though hundreds of cycle-tourists are passing through in the summer.
So break one you sit and wait.. Historic Tourist Town, So hotel rooms, and restaurants are many , so it's not that rough.
and several Brew pub Cafe's
....
Last edited by fietsbob; 08-23-18 at 08:53 AM.
#16
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 13,227
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4230 Post(s)
Liked 3,841 Times
in
2,563 Posts
My LBS does not have any thru axle hub wheels hanging on a peg for instant replacement, when someone walks in..
though hundreds of cycle-tourists are passing through in the summer.
So break one you sit and wait.. Historic Tourist Town, So hotel rooms, and restaurants are many , so it's not that rough.
....
though hundreds of cycle-tourists are passing through in the summer.
So break one you sit and wait.. Historic Tourist Town, So hotel rooms, and restaurants are many , so it's not that rough.
....
#17
Senior Member
Buy what you want OP.
I can still remember the boo hiss response to the idea of disk brakes on tourers.
I don't think there are wrong answers when it comes to bike componentry and ideas.
Merely compromises and I'm yet to see a bike without some.
I can still remember the boo hiss response to the idea of disk brakes on tourers.
I don't think there are wrong answers when it comes to bike componentry and ideas.
Merely compromises and I'm yet to see a bike without some.
#19
Senior Member
For many tourers having "low-end" works out because when you need a part in No-wheres-ville, they'll more likely have a Walmart or that nation's equivalent. Finding high-end bike shops on the road is more difficult than it sounds.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,600
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18302 Post(s)
Liked 4,470 Times
in
3,326 Posts
Thru Axles only make sense with disc brakes.
The primary reason for them is that on the front, disc calipers are generally mounted behind the fork. And, physics will tend to kick the axle down when one clamps onto the disc. So, a thru axle can be an important safety device. Plus, I've heard losing one's front tire is inconvenient.
On the rear, it is much less necessary, especially with modern lower triangle mounted brake calipers. So, any clamping force on the disc will tend to throw the axle upwards, and tighter into the dropouts. And, losing a rear wheel would be rarer, and less damaging.
I have broken ONE QR skewer by snagging the lever with my trailer at a bike rack (and thus often put the lever to the right/derailleur side), but a broken skewer would be rare for ordinary riding.
It likely depends on where one is riding. There have been a lot of comments about 26" tires, but I think 700c is pretty common too.
But, yes, in a pinch, one could even buy a brand new GMC Denali bike. Snag the wheels off of it and toss the frame, that is with standard spacing and QR/Bolt on.
I suppose, if I was shopping for a used bike, it would probably be typical QR + rim brakes. Much easier to find and maintain.
However, there would be a few things to consider. For example, 135mm OLD wheels are stronger than 126mm or 130mm OLD due to less dishing. Even 140mm or 145mm, although parts are harder to obtain. Nonetheless, a 140mm OLD steel frame should be able to fit a 135mm, or even 130mm wheel in a pinch.
On the other hand, if I was buying new... the thru-axle would be worth considering. One thing that will also happen is that 29er MTBs will dominate the new market in a few years, at least in the USA, so if they're all getting disc brakes and thru axles, then it may well be worth considering.
Also, if one is stuck, hunting for parts. One might run into a choice:
Hmmm, I'm still running a 700c disc brake rear wheel on my Tricross rim brake bike.
Of course, if one had rim brakes, then the used Hybrid wheels would be fine.
Anyway... if I was going used... then I'd go for 700c 135mm OLD rim brakes.
If I was going new. Perhaps consider 142mm OLD?? disc brakes, thru axle (or whatever the current 29er standard is).
The primary reason for them is that on the front, disc calipers are generally mounted behind the fork. And, physics will tend to kick the axle down when one clamps onto the disc. So, a thru axle can be an important safety device. Plus, I've heard losing one's front tire is inconvenient.
On the rear, it is much less necessary, especially with modern lower triangle mounted brake calipers. So, any clamping force on the disc will tend to throw the axle upwards, and tighter into the dropouts. And, losing a rear wheel would be rarer, and less damaging.
I have broken ONE QR skewer by snagging the lever with my trailer at a bike rack (and thus often put the lever to the right/derailleur side), but a broken skewer would be rare for ordinary riding.
But, yes, in a pinch, one could even buy a brand new GMC Denali bike. Snag the wheels off of it and toss the frame, that is with standard spacing and QR/Bolt on.
I suppose, if I was shopping for a used bike, it would probably be typical QR + rim brakes. Much easier to find and maintain.
However, there would be a few things to consider. For example, 135mm OLD wheels are stronger than 126mm or 130mm OLD due to less dishing. Even 140mm or 145mm, although parts are harder to obtain. Nonetheless, a 140mm OLD steel frame should be able to fit a 135mm, or even 130mm wheel in a pinch.
On the other hand, if I was buying new... the thru-axle would be worth considering. One thing that will also happen is that 29er MTBs will dominate the new market in a few years, at least in the USA, so if they're all getting disc brakes and thru axles, then it may well be worth considering.
Also, if one is stuck, hunting for parts. One might run into a choice:
- 700c road (18 spokes front, 24 spokes rear, 130mm OLD, rim brakes, or possibly disc?).
- 700c GMC Denali "road-ish".
- 700c beater "Hybrid"
- 700c 29er Thru-Axle, Disc brakes
- 26" MTB Beater.
Hmmm, I'm still running a 700c disc brake rear wheel on my Tricross rim brake bike.
Of course, if one had rim brakes, then the used Hybrid wheels would be fine.
Anyway... if I was going used... then I'd go for 700c 135mm OLD rim brakes.
If I was going new. Perhaps consider 142mm OLD?? disc brakes, thru axle (or whatever the current 29er standard is).
#21
Senior Member
but even then, you can often find these cheap chinese mtb's at little stalls in the
local markets.......you can buy a whole bike for $50! to strip for usable parts.
if you do luck out and find a simple bike shop, the spares you find are heavy and
clunky, but cheap ($5 for a mechanical disc brake!) and will get you moving again.
anything useful on this $50 bike?
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,600
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18302 Post(s)
Liked 4,470 Times
in
3,326 Posts
$50 for that?
That looks like it would be a $200 to $350 Walmart bike.
Easton wheels**********
That may well be a 29er (700c wheels), so that is a plus.
Freewheel?
I can't tell how the wheels are attached from the photo
But, yes, I could imagine snagging wheels, tires, chain, discs, and maybe calipers, seat. Then tossing the rest back.
Assuming the parts fit with one's bike. My brakes might make a mess of that printing on the wheels.
That looks like it would be a $200 to $350 Walmart bike.
Easton wheels**********
That may well be a 29er (700c wheels), so that is a plus.
Freewheel?
I can't tell how the wheels are attached from the photo
But, yes, I could imagine snagging wheels, tires, chain, discs, and maybe calipers, seat. Then tossing the rest back.
Assuming the parts fit with one's bike. My brakes might make a mess of that printing on the wheels.
#23
Senior Member
i just picked one at random off taobao.
can find similar stuff at the markets.
this'n comes in various versions.
spoked wheels or mag wheels.
21, 24, 27 speeds.
https://detail.tmall.com/item.htm?sp...d=522017560190
the super basic model is only 218 rmb! that's $35!
worth it just for the tires and tubes. and still more to love!~
sealed-bearing quando (rebranded) hubs with QR skewers
sealed bearing square taper 118mm bottom bracket.
clickshifters if you need 'em
cables and housing
brake rotors and calipers
bar ends, grips
8 or 9spd chain
derailler pulleys
brake levers
chain rings
8 or 9spd cassette
nuts and bolts
but wait, there's more!!!
also get the derailler hanger and seatpost clamp.
#24
Banned
Not only the many here , but others down the coast as you go https://oregoncraftbeer.org/breweries/
there are more, in this town, but, I expect they did not pay the fee, to be put on that map.. so you will find more along your tour..
....
there are more, in this town, but, I expect they did not pay the fee, to be put on that map.. so you will find more along your tour..
....
Last edited by fietsbob; 01-28-18 at 03:34 PM.
#25
Senior Member