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Is there a rule of thumb for how far your hoods should come over the front hub?

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Is there a rule of thumb for how far your hoods should come over the front hub?

Old 04-09-18, 02:18 PM
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Is there a rule of thumb for how far your hoods should come over the front hub?

Asking as I heard you want to ensure that the hoods do not go beyond the front hub when looking over if you have a front load. I am a touring newbie, and curious if anyone has feedback on this? I am looking to buy a bike and in between sizes for a salsa Marrakesh. Do I go with the smaller one with a longer stem/shorter stack, or the larger one with shorter stem/higher stack? Thanks!
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Old 04-09-18, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by rpg5
Asking as I heard you want to ensure that the hoods do not go beyond the front hub when looking over if you have a front load. I am a touring newbie, and curious if anyone has feedback on this? I am looking to buy a bike and in between sizes for a salsa Marrakesh. Do I go with the smaller one with a longer stem/shorter stack, or the larger one with shorter stem/higher stack? Thanks!
Assuming standover still works, the larger frame is typically what tourist shoot for due to the higher stack. How much different are they in length?
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Old 04-09-18, 02:45 PM
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Top tube difference is 20mm, reach is 7mm, stack is 23mm. I am 5'9" for reference and felt the stock 55 Marrakesh was short and low stack height (stem was at the top of the stack too) for my taste. I don't have a 57 to try out at the shop. Shop was saying I could swap out the 80mm stem for a 90mm too. Also a bit concerned with toe overlap with fenders.
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Old 04-09-18, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by rpg5
Top tube difference is 20mm, reach is 7mm, stack is 23mm. I am 5'9" for reference and felt the stock 55 Marrakesh was short and low stack height (stem was at the top of the stack too) for my taste. I don't have a 57 to try out at the shop. Shop was saying I could swap out the 80mm stem for a 90mm too. Also a bit concerned with toe overlap with fenders.
I'd probably size up then if you stuck somewhere in the middle. 7mm reach is easily offset by stem, 23mm stack is fairly significant, will likely give you a better 'touring' fit, which is to say, bars more level with seat.
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Old 04-09-18, 03:27 PM
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It gets a little complicated, but a lot of it is going to be your preference, Age is also a factor. Older tourists generally do not keep up a back strengthening regiment and find riding in a regular road position uncomfortable, so instead they end up setting their bikes up with really upright handlebars and sometimes close reach. I do not know what type of touring that you plan to do, but if you want to do full loaded touring with stuff on the top of your rack, it is a consideration to tour with a smaller frame that is easier to be able to step over the top tube. I recommend that you try mounting/ dismounting a range of bikes with different top tube/ or and stand over heights, to find what height would be easy for you. I toured for many years on a frame that was too big (obviously it did not kill me), but now that I tour on a bike with a much lower top tube I- A) Would never go back to/ consider touring on a big bike again. and B) Looking back, I have no idea how I did it. As far as hood height: there are two methods used: 1) how high the handlebars are above the front tire. I am 5'-6", so my bars are 7 inches above the front tire. Someone 5'-10" are typically 10" above the tire. 2) Is referred to as handlebar drop. Using a level, straight across from the seat you can determine how much lower (or in some cases higher) your handlebars are in relation to the seat. The bottom line here is going to be your preference, as what will give you a position that will feel comfortable for the distance that you will be touring on your bike. A lower position means that you are going to be able to drive more force to the pedals, that is why racers have low handlebars, but upright is more comfortable - Especially if your back is not really strong.
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Old 04-09-18, 05:13 PM
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Brian, good feedback. On the 55 Marrakesh, I have about 2" of standover room. The thing I didn't like was the reach was somewhat short with the stock 80mm stem. Also, the stem was all the way at the top of the spacer stack and was barely level with my seat. If I went to a 90mm stem, wouldn't that be about the same cockpit as a stock 57? I would like to have the ability to get the bars above the seat height just so I have options. Plus, I don't want to push the bars too far in front either.
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Old 04-09-18, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by rpg5
Brian, good feedback. On the 55 Marrakesh, I have about 2" of standover room. The thing I didn't like was the reach was somewhat short with the stock 80mm stem. Also, the stem was all the way at the top of the spacer stack and was barely level with my seat. If I went to a 90mm stem, wouldn't that be about the same cockpit as a stock 57? I would like to have the ability to get the bars above the seat height just so I have options. Plus, I don't want to push the bars too far in front either.
If the smaller bike's handlebars are not high enough and too short, you can get a longer stem that angles up higher as well. I do suggest that you make a picture/ chart of a blank bike. Draw lines indicating your: A) preferred seat height. (crank center to saddle top) B) Preferred reach. (Saddle front to the handlebar center). And C) Relative handlebar height (in relation to the seat.)
Nice long term data to keep. My back was so weak that I had to have my handlebars slightly above the seat. After I've been doing back exercises, my handlebars are 2.5" below the seat height, and I am touring much faster/ stronger. I still don't know what touring you want to do, but assuming it's loaded, how was stepping over the top tube for you? (With sleeping bag, etc loaded on a rear rack, stepping over the rear could be difficult).
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Old 04-09-18, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by nickw
I'd probably size up then if you stuck somewhere in the middle. 7mm reach is easily offset by stem, 23mm stack is fairly significant, will likely give you a better 'touring' fit, which is to say, bars more level with seat.

I agree, also keeping COG a bit further back can help make the handling more stable I think.
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Old 04-10-18, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Brian25
It gets a little complicated, but a lot of it is going to be your preference, Age is also a factor. Older tourists generally do not keep up a back strengthening regiment and find riding in a regular road position uncomfortable, so instead they end up setting their bikes up with really upright handlebars and sometimes close reach. I do not know what type of touring that you plan to do, but if you want to do full loaded touring with stuff on the top of your rack, it is a consideration to tour with a smaller frame that is easier to be able to step over the top tube. I recommend that you try mounting/ dismounting a range of bikes with different top tube/ or and stand over heights, to find what height would be easy for you. I toured for many years on a frame that was too big (obviously it did not kill me), but now that I tour on a bike with a much lower top tube I- A) Would never go back to/ consider touring on a big bike again. and B) Looking back, I have no idea how I did it. As far as hood height: there are two methods used: 1) how high the handlebars are above the front tire. I am 5'-6", so my bars are 7 inches above the front tire. Someone 5'-10" are typically 10" above the tire. 2) Is referred to as handlebar drop. Using a level, straight across from the seat you can determine how much lower (or in some cases higher) your handlebars are in relation to the seat. The bottom line here is going to be your preference, as what will give you a position that will feel comfortable for the distance that you will be touring on your bike. A lower position means that you are going to be able to drive more force to the pedals, that is why racers have low handlebars, but upright is more comfortable - Especially if your back is not really strong.
An easier method for bar drop is to simply measure the seat height (from the ground) then measure handlebar height (from the ground) and subtract the two figures.
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Old 04-10-18, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by rpg5
Brian, good feedback. On the 55 Marrakesh, I have about 2" of standover room. The thing I didn't like was the reach was somewhat short with the stock 80mm stem. Also, the stem was all the way at the top of the spacer stack and was barely level with my seat. If I went to a 90mm stem, wouldn't that be about the same cockpit as a stock 57? I would like to have the ability to get the bars above the seat height just so I have options. Plus, I don't want to push the bars too far in front either.
You'll have plenty of standover on the 57 too if you have 2" on the 55. They are about an inch different, I wouldn't be concerned about that. In looking at the Salsa website:

https://salsacycles.com/bikes/marrak...deore_drop_bar

They suggest you 'fit' on both, or at least in the right ballpark. It comes down to personal preference at this point, which is tough since you probably don't know what your preference is! Stem length is easily changed. After looking at the geo, the the 57 has a slacker STA and the *effective TT* is 20mm longer. So depending where you have your seat relative to your BB, stem length may be closer to 20mm difference, using a 100mm stem is still well within reason though.

You are also still dealing with bikes that have 23mm different *stack*, which can be significant depending on the fit you are after.

At the end of the day, all these fit measurements are so inter-related that it's tough to fit you just right over the internet. Generally the best option is to get a professional bike fit so you know what you body wants / needs. If that's not an option, ride a 57 as see what you think. Know that either one can likely be adjusted to work.
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