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Removing threadless stem for packing

Old 06-06-18, 08:04 AM
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Removing threadless stem for packing

A while back, I remember someone posting a link to a locking type spacer for threadless stems, which went on the bottom of the spacers up against the headset and prevented the fork from falling out when packing the bike with the stem removed. Does anyone have a link to that? I can't remember the name or exactly which thread it came out of, and my Googling isn't returning much.

Also, is such a device a better idea, or do people simply remove the faceplate of the stem to get handlebars off?
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Old 06-06-18, 08:36 AM
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methinks you meant this:

Problem Solvers Locking Headset Spacer | Jenson USA



i used a bmx seatpost clamp which was same size, now
have a stem riser that essentially does the same thing.

i find it useful, often load/unload into cramped train
passenger cabins or bus luggage bays. can loosen and
turn the bars without having to adjust headset later.

Last edited by saddlesores; 06-06-18 at 08:40 AM.
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Old 06-06-18, 08:57 AM
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Yep, that's exactly what it was, thanks @saddlesores!
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Old 06-06-18, 09:12 AM
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I'd just take off the faceplate.
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Old 06-06-18, 09:13 AM
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Some cantiliver brake cable hangers would also work, some have a small screw to tighten onto the steerer. If the hanger part gets in the way, use a hack saw.

Or just use a hose clamp.
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Old 06-06-18, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
I'd just take off the faceplate.
Heh, I already watched it fall out in front of my eyes last night because I wasn't thinking (first threadless bike I've completely torn apart), I'll stick to the locker method unless thre is some really good reason not to. Plus it got me over the free shipping mark on my rack anyhow
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Old 06-06-18, 11:33 AM
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I get packed bikes from tourists, a cardboard tube in place of the stem is done. and other less successful things..

New bikes have the stem in place, from the assembly /packing line.

I bought a locking spacer for my bike with an integrated headset
so the fork did not fall out so readily..

and take the RD off, so hanger does not get bent in shipping..
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Old 06-06-18, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
I'd just take off the faceplate.
+1

I would too, because realigning handlebar on fendered bikes (or any bike) is often a hassle - avoid removing stem!

Removing RD is good idea too.

OP, you can keep fork in place in headtube with only 1 headset spacer and a plastic cable "zip tie".

Last edited by seeker333; 06-06-18 at 12:01 PM.
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Old 06-06-18, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by jefnvk
Heh, I already watched it fall out in front of my eyes last night because I wasn't thinking (first threadless bike I've completely torn apart), I'll stick to the locker method unless thre is some really good reason not to. Plus it got me over the free shipping mark on my rack anyhow
I too am a sufferer of cerebral flatus so I understand.
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Old 06-06-18, 04:30 PM
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If you are not used to working with your headset, it never hurts to have an exploded diagram on your phone showing the right order of things if your fork slides out. Or a photo of the parts in order.

To get two of my bikes in the S&S case, I have to remove the fork. I put the headset parts back on the steerer tube in the correct order, and put a rubber band or two on the steerer tube to keep them from sliding off. Photo is upside down.

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Old 06-06-18, 07:15 PM
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because of my ortlieb mounts, I cant easily just take off the front plate, well I couild but Id have to remove the mount, which I dont like doing because of concern for the loosening/tightening of the wire in the mount.
So I take the whole stem and bars off, and put a cardboard spacer in to hold fork in place, and then monkey with the bars to get them in box without dinging the frame, foam bits etc to protect stuff.
In just a few days I'll be doing the same thing as you, boxing the bikes.
All the best in transport.
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Old 06-07-18, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by djb
because of my ortlieb mounts, I cant easily just take off the front plate, well I couild but Id have to remove the mount, which I dont like doing because of concern for the loosening/tightening of the wire in the mount.
Good point, I forgot about that aspect. My handlebar bag mount similarly restricts faceplate access, and is not really easy on/off.

Originally Posted by seeker333
Removing RD is good idea too.
Yeah, I always unscrew it, wrap it in bubble wrap, and ziptie it to the chainstay.

Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
If you are not used to working with your headset, it never hurts to have an exploded diagram on your phone showing the right order of things if your fork slides out. Or a photo of the parts in order.
Learned that one the hard way, both of my friends in Iceland had threadless (which, as mentioned before, I only now have started working with), we spent some time figuring out how their headsets went back together...
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Old 06-07-18, 08:42 AM
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cant remember if this has been brought up before, but if you are not really sure of what you are doing, get some good advice of how to properly set the right tightness for the top bolt, the vertical one, on your threadless headset. Always loosen or tighten it AFTER loosening the two or four horizontal bolts on the stem (holding the stem to the steerer), and get a mechanic to show you by feel how tight the top one should be for proper headset tightness.
Again, realize that if yoiu mess around with the top nut without loosening the other ones, you risk screwing up the starnut inside the fork, look up starnut if you dont know what I am referring to. Also, if yoiu do screw ithe starnut up, you can get it replaced easily , it costs maybe a few bucks and a small fee to install it inside the fork.
One mechanic sshowed me the trick , re tightness, that when done, you shouldnt be able to turn the spacers by hand easily, ie rotate them, but of course at a tightness that still allows free and unrestricted movement of the handlebars back and forth.

re ortlieb mount, I wish I could figure out an easy way to rotate it and just undo the faceplate, but I dont think theres a way unless you take the mount off completely. The only issue with the stem attached to the bars is that it is onemore thing sticking out for packing, and has to be covered in foam to avoid dinging your frame. Also you have to put a cardboard spacer in place of the stem on your steerer, but will be able to find that in the stuff that a new bike comes in usually, or make one like I did with cardboard once.
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Old 06-07-18, 09:54 AM
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FWIW, as of the 6th version Ortlieb and Klick Fix bar bags and mounts
are interchangeable..

the KF is easier to remove and put back on...


...
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Old 06-07-18, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by djb
because of my ortlieb mounts, I cant easily just take off the front plate, well I couild but Id have to remove the mount, which I dont like doing because of concern for the loosening/tightening of the wire in the mount.
So I take the whole stem and bars off, and put a cardboard spacer in to hold fork in place, and then monkey with the bars to get them in box without dinging the frame, foam bits etc to protect stuff.
In just a few days I'll be doing the same thing as you, boxing the bikes.
All the best in transport.
Actually, you can take the Ortlieb mount off fairly easily, without removing the cable completely. I unthread it from around the bar, after removing the screw from the end you tighten, and leave the loop around the stem. You can remove the bars then and leave the Ortlieb mount hanging off the stem. Take a picture of the cable routing for the mount if you need a reminder on how to reattach it. I have done this many times to allow myself to sway out stems or remove the bars.
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Old 06-07-18, 11:44 AM
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For me, HB rotation angle is one of the most important fits on the bike, I lay a yardstick on the HB flat and see where it lands on the seatstay. To remove the faceplate would mean getting the yardstick or equivalent and keeping the marker tape on my seatstay. No thanks! Good thing is that all but one of my bikes have quill stems. Easy, easy to just pull. (I'veridden Cycle Oregon on my fix gear with two complete cockpits, road HBs, stem, levers and sidepulls for the flat days, pista bars, stem, V-brake levers and dual pivots for the mountain days. Takes 5 minutes to swap.

Ben
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Old 06-07-18, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
FWIW, as of the 6th version Ortlieb and Klick Fix bar bags and mounts
are interchangeable..

the KF is easier to remove and put back on...
Not to derail my own thread, do you know if that is the same mount that the Blackburns use? They look really similar, I have been meaning to walk my handlebar bag into REI sometime and see if it fits on the Ortlieb mounts. Would like to get a couple extra mounts so I can just move the bag.
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Old 06-07-18, 03:21 PM
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Doubt it, but German, KF, sells their hardware to some European bag makers, like Berthoud and Carradice..


Last edited by fietsbob; 06-07-18 at 03:25 PM.
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Old 06-07-18, 03:27 PM
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their other way of mounting

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Old 06-07-18, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by jefnvk
Heh, I already watched it fall out in front of my eyes last night because I wasn't thinking (first threadless bike I've completely torn apart), I'll stick to the locker method unless thre is some really good reason not to. Plus it got me over the free shipping mark on my rack anyhow
Yeah, it dose not work very well with disc or v-brakes as you found out. The cantilever brake front cable hanger does the same thing as the locking spacer, on canti equipped bikes.

This may be the picture you remembered.


I'm assuming this is the reason you want to lock it in place. It makes it a lot easier at the other end when reassembling the bike; no readjusting headset torque is necessary.

Last edited by Doug64; 06-07-18 at 11:04 PM.
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Old 06-07-18, 05:20 PM
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Yep @Doug64, correct on both accounts.

Does the top cap on the fork keep the other spacers in place sufficiently?


@fietsbob- gonna have to take my bag into REI and try with the Ortliebs. The locking mechanism is a bit different, but still looks awful similar.
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Old 06-07-18, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by djb
because of my ortlieb mounts, I cant easily just take off the front plate, well I couild but Id have to remove the mount, which I dont like doing because of concern for the loosening/tightening of the wire in the mount.
So I take the whole stem and bars off, and put a cardboard spacer in to hold fork in place, and then monkey with the bars to get them in box without dinging the frame, foam bits etc to protect stuff.
In just a few days I'll be doing the same thing as you, boxing the bikes.
All the best in transport.
The Ortlieb bag mount can be loosened enough to rotate it, and to get a wrench on the face plate bolts. It only takes loosening the upper or lower pair to rotate the bars. I have my bars marked ( a small dot of red paint) at the mating surface of the faceplate and the stem, so realigning them is not an issue. I've never had a problem aligning my stem with the front wheel.

My other bike.
If you look closely at the left side of the stem, there is a small scratch etched into the bar, marking the correct bar position.

Last edited by Doug64; 06-07-18 at 05:46 PM.
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Old 06-07-18, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by jefnvk
Yep @Doug64, correct on both accounts.

Does the top cap on the fork keep the other spacers in place sufficiently?


@fietsbob- gonna have to take my bag into REI and try with the Ortliebs. The locking mechanism is a bit different, but still looks awful similar.
I have not had any problems with just snugging it up. You'd have to put a lot of pressure on the star-nut to move it, and it won't affect your headset adjustment even if it does move a little.
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Old 06-07-18, 08:18 PM
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howdy doug,
so in the shot of teh blue bike, I see that the ortlieb mount is still on the bars and stem , while the whole handlebar assembly is hanging on the frame. Do you rotate the stem a bit to make it fit in against the frame easier? I kind of assume so given that make that little mark to help line up the bars again easily.

as The National Enquirer used to say, Enquiring minds want to know ;-)
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Old 06-07-18, 10:03 PM
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Hi David,

I can't remember the need to rotate the bars to align the stem when packing the bikes, but that does not mean that I didn't. It may have been something I did not think much about at the time. I did need to reposition my bars when the bars rotated because I did not tighten them properly or got wacked out of alignment through an accident. Starting tomorrow, I've 4 bikes to pack, and I'll be more conscious of how I handle that aspect of the packing.

When do you start packing?

Last edited by Doug64; 06-07-18 at 11:06 PM.
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