I use SPD cleats pretty much all the time. I'm more comfortable with them that without them. If you like them while commuting or on leisure rides, then yes, use them for touring. But it's not a good idea to start using something new just because you're on tour. Even if you learn to use them, you may learn you don't like them. They're not for everyone. Heck, I don't even recommend them to people. I use them because I like them, not because I think they're superior for anyone else.

there are a couple magnetic pedals with a steel piece on your shoe sole (In SPD pocket) so no cleat engagement issues ..



I reworked a pair of loose fitting, slot cleat shoes, which had a lace cover flap ..

made them stiffer and the cleat slot full width and recessed, and used
a comfortable insole , and (Campy) toe clip pedals ..

All day comfort , on my bike tours that I got to take over weeks at a time..





...

And if you pedal fast enough you can create enough current to recharge your electronic devices : )

Might need a coil of copper wire to move those magnets around .. in order to do that, Mr Edison..

Bob, I'm smelling an investment idea here for us. What do you say ?

I saw a study that says it should work (just don't ask me for a citation please : )

Yes, but...

Some touring cyclists I know cover imperial centuries pretty well daily when on tour... or doing Audax rides which move 24-hour totals out to much longer distance than that. Sort of not hard to see the choice most of those riders take.

here is a reason I like being clipped in that I dont think others have brought up--I find being able to change up my pedal stroke--muscles wise--is a plus for changing up how your leg muscles work, and so gives a slightly diff muscle group use at times which feels nice.
I notice that I instinctively change up how I pedal during the day, and I think it helps with overall comfort during a long day.

Regarding cleat bolts, a lot of people think they can just install them and be done with it. But the cleat is pressed against a plastic shoe sole that over time will deform which reduces the pressure of the cleat against the shoe sole. Thus, in most cases the bolts will loosen up soon after newly installed cleats or adjusting cleat locations on a shoe. It is a good idea for the first year or so to make sure they are still tight about once a month. And I try to remember to check all my shoes once a year at the start of biking season to make sure they are all still tight, even if the cleats have been installed for a few years.

My road bike has fender mounts, but no fender or rack on the front fork. On one side I have a spare rack bolt and on the other side I have a spare cleat bolt. The cleat bolt that is countersunk, I have two washers between the bolt head and dropout so the bolt head presses against a washer instead of the dropout when I tighten the bolt.

That's a very good tip. I appreciate all the help you have given me and others here!

This makes total sense and logical and I do periodically check but I've actually experienced the exact opposite. The cleat seems to get stuck to the shoe and the screw threads form a nice tight corrosive dirt bond.

all kidding aside, its something I figure is good to mention to someone who hasnt used clipless before.
As I've made clear, it's cool that folks use what they feel like, it's just good to get some realistic "pro" reasons backed up by experience that does help in more than just the "is it more efficient" argument.https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c2c67fd654.png

Wowser! Your first but is known to me... getting odd angles to break the hold become evident and indicate the need for tightening (after any readjustment required).

But your second point is one worth exploring for me... I have an issue on my Thorn touring bike with rear mudguard attachment. Gawd, I have probably accumulated more pedal cleat nuts/screws over time than just about any other bike part.

I actually solved a knee problem by moving to clipless from platforms: I'm not sure exactly why, but I had all kinds of knee issues when I was riding platforms. Securing my foot on the pedal resolved that and I haven't had an issue since I made the move.

To the topic at hand, I use mountain spds exclusively when I tour. I may may carry another lightweight pair of shoes depending on the nature of the trip, but I often just go with my cycling shoes. Which are very comfortable on and off the bike.

ps, I had no idea that silly graphic would be so big, it looks like I was yelling....thought it was a small thing to put in for a joke.

Thanks for that tip, [MENTION=203914]Tourist in MSN[/MENTION]. I haven't had a bolt come loose, but I was on one of those big organized rides, and one guy lost a bolt. There was nothing anyone could do, and he had to end early.

+1 And more - I've had injuries and knee issues that were made worse during the downstroke portion of the pedal cycle. I have ridden many miles simply "deleting" the downstroke, ie relaxing as my foot comes over the top and staying relaxed until I can drag back at the bottom. Power up. (And yes, I was taught very well the bad habit of "pedaling circles" and educated my leg muscles on relaxation by riding down big hills on fix gears. I know that bit about the upstroke is physically impossible (edit: thanks forum; learned that here) :) but it has bailed me out many times.)

Oh, that knee injury is my chronic issue of CP, chrondomalcia patellae that I've lived with the past 40 years. Sometimes I ride when I haven't done my homework and it surfaces. Having a tool to minimize it and keep riding is really useful.

Ben

Broad platform pedals here.

I rode 2,000 miles to NY in 30 days on platform pedals while wearing $12 Dollar Store slip-on sandals and cotton-blend dress socks.

I rode 1,500 miles in Europe in 40 days (more to see) on those same platform pedals, this time wearing Crocs Swiftwater Fishermen Sandals over ordinary dress socks.

Every day I commute with that same setup.

I have crooked broken toes on one foot, over time pedaling in any sort of enclosed shoe becomes painful. This doesn't happen while walking, must be the act of pedaling pushes my toes forward inside a shoe.

I cannot clip in because I get knee pain. With platform pedals I can move my feet around freely on the pedal to change the forces acting on my knees, thus far this has always alleviated any pain.

Works fer me, 365 days a year down here, rain or shine.

The only caveat is this setup requires flat-soled sandals or shoes otherwise the studs on the pedal engage the tread on the sandal so that its almost like being clipped in.

Personally, I went for standard 2 sided SPD's and a mtb shoe with fairly stiff sole, but rubber walking surface.
My goal (not sure if i achieved it) was to maximize riding efficiency (lighter weight, fairly stiff, clipless efficiency, prevent hotspot), while still having a shoe that wasn't a burden to walk around in. I had a lot of ground to cover each day, but still wanted to be able to run into the store or restaurant, and/or site see just a bit without clunking around in road shoes.
the shoes i have are similar to https://www.specialized.com/us/en/co...00#result-list
I'd also found that I struggle to quickly get into single sided clipless pedals in sticky situations, and i didn't want the weight (maybe silly) of platforms on the back side of spd.

I'm happy with my choice.
I also was carrying sandals for extended time off the bike.

I have shoes similar to those, and I can wear them all day even when I'm not on the bike. I've taken hikes in the woods wearing them, climbing on muddy, rocky, rooty trails.

Same. I've even walked most of a marathon in Pearl Izumi carbon sole shoes.

I have used platform pedals with mini-clips, no straps, for many years. They position your foot correctly, allow you to pull up, allow the use of any shoes, and most of all, WON"T TRAP YER FEET!! Maybe I'm just a klutz, but being able to get your feet free when you might be going down is very reassuring. Been there, done that, got the road rash to prove it!

This topic keeps coming up, and the arguments are mostly all the same each time. Use what works for you I think is the best advice, but personally I like my SPD setup. I rode with regular pedals and straps ("rat traps") for a very long time before finally trying out SPD pedals and shoes, and now I wish I had changed a long time ago. Being clipped in makes sure my foot is properly positioned on the pedal, and clipping into the SPD pedals is much easier than it ever was with the straps (my Shimano pedals are 2-sided which is a big factor here). Getting out is also easier IMO, once I established the right muscle memory, but even in panic situations my clips are set loose enough that I can pull out if absolutely necessary (I use position #3 ). For the people complaining about "clicking" when walking, I found that depends on the shoe. I used to have some inexpensive Shimano shoes, and they did indeed click when walking on hard surfaces, but I now have some Gyro shoes (black with orange laces, I forget the name) that are quite comfortable to walk in and manage to avoid the clicking sound.

I like the recommendation for the Shimano XM9 SPD hiking boots; I'll have to think about those, though at $250 it's an investment. I thought my Oboz boots were expensive...

And I agree with the post about road vs MTB pedals and shoes: I don't see any advantage at all to road shoes, except possibly a tiny amount of weight that would be significant to a professional racer but not me since I value walkability more.

Yes... but depends on foot size. I put on 5mm thick plastic strips or wooden ones with the screw holes drilled to extend the toe forward more and have the pedal shaft further back on the sole.

Worked well enough for with straps and without, that friend had me do up and fit a pair of spacers for his pedals.

I still have clips etc, and a utility bike (based on MTB frame, but wheelbase lengthened with framework from a rear-suspended MTB) is the prime candidate for fitting my old-style pedals again for shopping trips.

When touring I use toe-clips and shoes. I like the freedom to move my feet about or to very quickly get out of the pedal on an uphill dirt road with very loose surface and or large stones. I've had far too many times with clipless pedals where I stopped unexpectedly with a leg in the wrong position t o disengage my foot before falling over. Out in the boonies far from anyone and by myself is not the time I want scrapes/cuts that could so easily be avoided. Besides, with platform pedals and toe-clips I can use just about any shoe or lightweight hiking boot.

YMMV

Cheers

Surely there's a good story that comes with that statement?

they say one must walk a mile in another mans shoes to understand him better, but I'll pass on the carbon Pearl Izumis thanks.

Clip style for touring
 

I think clipless pedals are too much trouble. Comfortable walking shoes are a must for me and the ease of getting in and out when I'm beyond tired. Getting off the bike for breakfast or lunch without clomping around or changing shoes and carrying less weight with one set of all purpose shoes is my reasoning.

Last summer I had a ride that went totally wrong, I misjudged something that day. About 85 miles in and only a few to go my legs were cramping up hardcore. When one would freeze I couldn't even twist to unclip to stretch it out. I had to coast for about 10 seconds in pain and then unclip. Obviously extreme case and probably not what you were referring to but your comment did remind me of that. I use combo pedals and did stop using the clip side and crawled to my destination.

135kms aint nothing to sneeze at, and so many factors to consider for cramping, including simply not being ready