Opinions on my tires
#26
Senior Member
Now that I see the tires, I really vote in favor of saving those for a gravel tour/rail trail rides and putting on a road tire for your current road riding needs.
I've had cyclocross type tires before. You're correct in thinking you can Definitely feel the difference in speed and effort for paved riding.

#27
Senior Member
Thread Starter
#28
Senior Member
If I may suggest, keep tabs on your pressures and bonus if you ride the same route sometimes, with diff types of surfaces, and note how X psi feels vs another.
You'll see how differently the bike feels and rides at sometimes only 5psi diff, with the standard issue of as you lower pressures from too high, the ride will increase a noticeable amount for you, the bike will handle better over rough stuff, and you'll see that your ride times will either be the same (but more comfortable) or even faster and clearly more comfortable for you.
having a floor pump is great, and myabe double check its gauge against a diff handheld gauge, just for reference anyway.
have fun playing with pressures, its worth doing, and soon you will find a psi front and back that works best for getting the max comfort, handling and speed.
I find dialing down from too high and too harsh is the easiest, helps if you have a good handheld gauge to bring with you, and practice so you dont lose much air on each pressure test.
You'll see how differently the bike feels and rides at sometimes only 5psi diff, with the standard issue of as you lower pressures from too high, the ride will increase a noticeable amount for you, the bike will handle better over rough stuff, and you'll see that your ride times will either be the same (but more comfortable) or even faster and clearly more comfortable for you.
having a floor pump is great, and myabe double check its gauge against a diff handheld gauge, just for reference anyway.
have fun playing with pressures, its worth doing, and soon you will find a psi front and back that works best for getting the max comfort, handling and speed.
I find dialing down from too high and too harsh is the easiest, helps if you have a good handheld gauge to bring with you, and practice so you dont lose much air on each pressure test.
#29
Senior Member
Well, how do the Compass feel compared to the old ones?? We must know!
My money is on them feeling Much better.
My money is on them feeling Much better.
#30
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Rolling resistance seems good but I think they might be a bit noisier than a Schwalbe Marathon Supreme for example. Then again the molding lines haven't worn off yet so they might get even smoother in the future.
I like them.



#32
Senior Member
hoi Jacco
on your rims, at the valve area, is that black thing an adapter to use presta tubes in shraeder hole rim?
on your rims, at the valve area, is that black thing an adapter to use presta tubes in shraeder hole rim?
#33
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Hey @djb,
No the TB14 rims use a black "counterweight" around the valve hole. And since I am using these with Schwalbe tubes with black valves it might look like that.
I do have a Mavic A319 rim coming in soon for a different build which apparently do include one of those adapters.
No the TB14 rims use a black "counterweight" around the valve hole. And since I am using these with Schwalbe tubes with black valves it might look like that.
I do have a Mavic A319 rim coming in soon for a different build which apparently do include one of those adapters.

#34
Senior Member
Hey @djb,
No the TB14 rims use a black "counterweight" around the valve hole. And since I am using these with Schwalbe tubes with black valves it might look like that.
I do have a Mavic A319 rim coming in soon for a different build which apparently do include one of those adapters.
No the TB14 rims use a black "counterweight" around the valve hole. And since I am using these with Schwalbe tubes with black valves it might look like that.
I do have a Mavic A319 rim coming in soon for a different build which apparently do include one of those adapters.
also interesting, but one always sees a rim roll to the "valve at bottom" position when a bike is on the stand, so I dont really understand why it needs to be weighted more.
Just wondering
#35
Senior Member
I personally have found that they don't slow me down at all. I used a pair of McClure Pass tires (26" x 1.5" or 38mm) for my last tour through the Cascades and Rockies. Had been using Schwalbe Marathon Greenguards, same size but pumped up to full pressure (100 psi). Discovered something with the Schwalbes while approaching Grand Forks, ND the previous year. The pavement on Rt. 2 must have been an asphalt layer over concrete. The transverse cracks in the asphalt appeared to be very regular, mirroring the old concrete seams. The bumping had a metronomic quality that was driving me insane. I let about 40 lbs out of each tire and found that it was the solution. Decided to keep the pressures low for the remainder of the ride (reached Duluth at the end of it.) And figured WTH, I'll take Compass (now Rene Herse) at their word that low pressures on wide supple tires (the Schwalbes are definitely not supple) would be an even better way to tour.
Can say without hesitation it was a good move (again only comparing rock hard low-end Schwalbes to a much pricier tire.) Very limited sample size to this trial. Only downside was an encounter with goat head thorns in Riverside, WA The Compass/Herse tires didn't stand up well to the attack, but not sure the Schwalbes would have done much better. The "greenguard" is supposed to be a puncture resistant extra layer so it would have been interesting to know. Never met g.h.t.s before, or since, so I can't say.
Can say without hesitation it was a good move (again only comparing rock hard low-end Schwalbes to a much pricier tire.) Very limited sample size to this trial. Only downside was an encounter with goat head thorns in Riverside, WA The Compass/Herse tires didn't stand up well to the attack, but not sure the Schwalbes would have done much better. The "greenguard" is supposed to be a puncture resistant extra layer so it would have been interesting to know. Never met g.h.t.s before, or since, so I can't say.
#36
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interesting, I dont think I have ever noticed counterweights on bicycle rims, on cars we have those lead weights to balance the rim, but thats news to me on bike rims.
also interesting, but one always sees a rim roll to the "valve at bottom" position when a bike is on the stand, so I dont really understand why it needs to be weighted more.
Just wondering
also interesting, but one always sees a rim roll to the "valve at bottom" position when a bike is on the stand, so I dont really understand why it needs to be weighted more.
Just wondering
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Stuart Black
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Days of Wineless Roads. Bed and Breakfasting along the KATY
Twisting Down the Alley. Misadventures in tornado alley.
#37
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@djb & @cyccommute
I finally figured out what the TB14's were inspired by. It's the Ambrosio Nemesis, a classic tubular rim that was a favourite on Paris-Roubaix's cobble streets.
Icons of cycling: Ambrosio Nemesis rims - Cyclingweekly.
I finally figured out what the TB14's were inspired by. It's the Ambrosio Nemesis, a classic tubular rim that was a favourite on Paris-Roubaix's cobble streets.
Icons of cycling: Ambrosio Nemesis rims - Cyclingweekly.

#39
Senior Member
Could the "counter weight" actually be a reinforcement to make up for the larger hole for the valve stem, especially since it looks like they used a thick grommet? A counter weight in that location doesn't make sense to me either.
#40
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I would just wear them off and after that replace them with different tires. According to Jan Heine's blog wider tires are not necessarily slower than narrower tires.
#41
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As many here are saying, definitely ditch those tires if you don't care for them. I love the 700x32c Vittoria Hyper. Sadly they stopped producing this tire, but you can find them on websites sometimes. Last time I needed some I got them from planetx cycles online. Basically you want to go for the lightest, most supple touring tire you can find. 32mm width with a smooth, road tread is fine for paved roads. If you're used to running 23mm tires, you'd likely even be happy on a 28-30mm. If you tend to flat a lot, I'd go for the Schwalbe Marathon Supreme. If not, just whatever you can find that's light and supple. Higher TPI(threads per inch) is typically a sign of a better tire for that.
Brown, folding, reflective in 35's only.
Vittoria Voyager Hyper 35's Brown PlanetX

#42
Senior Member
Vittoria Voyager Hyper listed on PlanetX again @ 64% off, about $20 US each after shipping four as I just did last week. Love the Hypers, esp at that price.
Brown, folding, reflective in 35's only.
Vittoria Voyager Hyper 35's Brown PlanetX

Brown, folding, reflective in 35's only.
Vittoria Voyager Hyper 35's Brown PlanetX

I was tempted to try them, but honestly, I find that colour just looks like I have ridden through massive amounts of soft dog poo.....
#43
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If you're not a believer in that counterweight, it can be removed: Plaque removal from H+Son TB14 valve stem ferrule, done.

#44
Senior Member
Yeah, not into the brown color. I won't be surprised if they get the blacks back in soon, though. Planetx often has some form of the hyper in stock. I just wish they weren't always the 35-38mm. I would love some 28-32mm for my next road tour. I have a set of new 35s waiting for the next tour, but I just don't see a need for that big of a tire for a paved tour on decent roads. I'm not one to carry my own body weight in gear and plow through pot holes.