![]() |
Originally Posted by Russ Roth
(Post 21825273)
As I mentioned, for me, carrying the right spokes means 10 different lengths, the youngest when we tour next will have a 20" wheel, the middle a 24" wheel, the eldest at 26" wheel, and my wife and I run different rims, when she weights low 100s there's no reason to use the same rim as me in the high 200s. Z bend is the best way for me to be assured of a fitted spoke without carrying a bundle. I can hit a shop if I need more then the 3 spokes I carried.
... I store my spare spokes in the seatpost on my bikes, that way the right sized spokes are with each bike, I do not get confused about which spares go with which bike.
Originally Posted by Jeff Neese
(Post 21825245)
My touring bike weighed 80-100 lbs fully loaded for a two-week trip. That's not unusual. But you really don't want to do that sort of thing on 32-spoke wheels.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8627d29f8d.jpg Speaking of spokes, two days before I took the photo above, not sure what happened but I heard a very odd noise and my bike shook a bit. I was on a very rough road with lots of cobbles. A short time later I could feel the rear rim rubbing on a brake pad with each revolution. It was a very long day, I wanted to make a campsite, so I kept going. I looked at it the next day. I think the front wheel threw a rock into the rear wheel or something like that and I think the rock jammed between the frame and spoke to put the dent in the spoke in the photo below. The spoke was loose, which is why my brake was rubbing. I suspected that whatever impact caused the spoke to bend like that stripped the threads in teh nipple or the spoke. I had spare spokes, but I really did not want to pull the tire and rim tape off to replace it. Instead of just replacing the spoke, I first decided to see if the threads were stripped, and I found that I could tighten up the spoke to true up the wheel without replacing the spoke. So, did not need to replace it. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f4f5bbb5f1.jpg When I got home, I did replace the spoke. I am just guessing that a rock got into the rear wheel, but I really wish I knew with certainty what caused that. |
Originally Posted by robow
(Post 21825326)
I'm sure cost and availability are the main reasons that triple butted spokes are not used more often, and the fact certain hubs don't match up well.
As for not fitting in hubs, I’ve used them to build wheels with Shimano XT and XTR, a couple of different Phil Wood models, several White Industry models from several different eras, Paul FHub and RHub, GT Hadleys, Cannondale house brand, Ringle’ Super Bubba, and some Chinese hubs that were purple. I’ve probably used other hubs over the years but can’t recall exactly which ones. The above list is still a very wide range of hubs. The only ones that didn’t fit were the Ringle’. And that problem was easily fixed by drilling the holes just a little bit. I don’t know that I would do that with Ringle in general but the hub is my winter hub and only sees limited use. Honestly, the way that hubs are made, triple butted spokes should have been made from the very beginning. They fit the hubs better. |
Originally Posted by robow
(Post 21824207)
At 280 lbs of bike and rider, no way would I want 32 spokes on the rear unless maybe we are talking 26" wheels here, and I would still likely go 36 if possible. 700c wheels, definitely 36 spokes, not up for debate. If you have ever toured and had continuous wheel problems, you will know what a miserable ordeal it can be. More plush ride with 4 less spokes is BS when it comes to loaded touring. This is of course only my opinion but it is derived after many years of actual touring.
|
Originally Posted by stevel610
(Post 21825315)
If its a 1 off tour I definitely would have gone 32's. A couple weeks on satisfactory wheels versus several years on overbuilt built wheels after the tour. But thats me.
Sounds like you made a good choice for you! Good luck & hope you have fun! |
Originally Posted by I hope the OP is still reading this thread now that his decision as been made [/QUOTE
I am. And appreciating the variety of tips. I have researched rolling resistances per rim size per tire size to dial in my ideal tire pressure...for my road bike. It hadn’t occurred to me to wonder about weight-variable influences on front vs back touring wheels. [QUOTE =I noticed. He has not toured yet. I assumed he would find out that the big pile of stuff did not fit in the panniers and would need to cull out some stuff |
Originally Posted by Jno
(Post 21825649)
... I’m even resigned to the loss of the ceremonial bottle of scotch
I usually use a Nalgene lexan bottle for alcohol, glass breaks. *** How many in your group? Tentatively where is your start and end point? |
Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
(Post 21825878)
Blasphemy.
I usually use a Nalgene lexan bottle for alcohol, glass breaks. *** How many in your group? Tentatively where is your start and end point? 4 (but only two scotch drinkers, so that helps weight management!) Vancouver start. If things work out, we hope to go to St.John’s Newfoundland, but we’re all closing in on 60 so we’ll see. |
Originally Posted by Jno
(Post 21823865)
He have me two reasons, and I suspect a third:
1. Slightly more flex means better, more forgiving ride 2. The wide internal rim width helps spread load so “these days”, 36 is overkill. 3. He didn’t say but my research has indicated that it is pretty tough finding 36h rims. There are so many different factors which determine how durable a rim is, that spoke count is just one small factor . You can build an absurdly strong rim with less than 32 spokes. How comfortable the ride is has more to do with how well you fit on the frame and how you ride it. |
Originally Posted by Jno
(Post 21825956)
4 (but only two scotch drinkers, so that helps weight management!)
Vancouver start. If things work out, we hope to go to St.John’s Newfoundland, but we’re all closing in on 60 so we’ll see. I flew in and out of Halifax. There was a shuttle van from the airport that went to the downtown train station. I had my S&S coupled bike, thus my bike was in normal airline size luggage. I can't comment on how easy it is to get a full size bike box to the airport if you fly out of Halifax. In Halifax, there was a very good bike shop, Cyclesmith. Very helpful. If you leave from there, if you contact them in advance they might be able to have some empty bike boxes for you when you leave. https://www.cyclesmith.ca/ Some of my trips, I carry a spare tire, some I do not. If I was doing a trip with the distance you are planning, I would bring a spare. Usually, if I bring a spare it is not intended to replace one of my tires, instead it is a very lightweight tire that is intended to be good enough to get me to the nearest bike shop. But a trip of that distance, I might be tempted to carry a replacement tire instead of an emergency one. You are going to have a great time. |
Originally Posted by Jno
(Post 21823759)
32 hole rims offer better ride (less harsh)
The only relatively minor disadvantage of 36-spoke wheels is a modest weight penalty, which isn't really a concern on tour. Considering the heavy load your wheels will be carrying, I'd go with 36-spokes if it's an option. |
Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
(Post 21826208)
Some of my trips, I carry a spare tire, some I do not. If I was doing a trip with the distance you are planning, I would bring a spare. Usually, if I bring a spare it is not intended to replace one of my tires, instead it is a very lightweight tire that is intended to be good enough to get me to the nearest bike shop. But a trip of that distance, I might be tempted to carry a replacement tire instead of an emergency one.
You are going to have a great time. |
Originally Posted by cyccommute
(Post 21825607)
The only ones that didn’t fit were the Ringle’.
Honestly, the way that hubs are made, triple butted spokes should have been made from the very beginning. They fit the hubs better. Might have mentioned it previously but the Alpines were top of my list after reading your recommendations back around 2011/2012 but alas they weren't suitable, so I opted for CX-Rays which have worked a treat. Haven't broken a single spoke on this build although I do get the tension checked bi-annually. |
Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
(Post 21825208)
Cassette lock ring tool is small and light. Using a hacksaw and file, I "adjusted" a cone wrench to fit on the cassette tool, that saves some volume and weight. And several years ago I wrote up a post on a substitute for a chain whip, that post is at:
https://www.bikeforums.net/touring/8...ip-travel.html That thread also listed some other options to the standard lock ring tool and wrench. |
Originally Posted by JaccoW
(Post 21826386)
I'm trying to understand when you would want to remove the cassette if you can just pop off the entire cassette body with a minor modification and an M6 bolt?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXRnsF3sRDg In Shimano hubs the freehub screws in to the hub and freehub removal is an absolute chore so not worth it. Personally I use the NBT2 https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/ma...2-tool-review/ Works as a cassette lockring and as a chainwhip. Very handy. |
Originally Posted by JaccoW
(Post 21826386)
I'm trying to understand when you would want to remove the cassette if you can just pop off the entire cassette body with a minor modification and an M6 bolt?
... https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fa904694c4.jpg |
My Rohloff certainly is OK with 32 x 2.0 spokes with locking nipples. 120 lb bike + 175 me.
My SA XL-FDD has 36 x 2.3/ 2.0. 27,000 miles and counting for a LONG time. |
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:04 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.