tcs

Surly Disc Trucker frame - whatever year they made blue ones.

garryg

I think my disc trucker is 2012, maroon

IPassGas

Thanks for the picture and instructions. You are correct, too much work.

Tourist in MSN

Thanks for posting the photo, I have no clue how to setup a Rohloff on a Surly.

tcs

Or maybe not.



I wouldn't have done this except I stumbled into a schweeeeet deal on a non-disc Rohloff. In another thread, I was assured I would be in the group that got more cavities, but actually, the bike as a total package works just dandy. It's fitted with a TRP HY-TP front disc with a Shimano ICE rotor --> stops on a dime and gives change.

Tourist in MSN

My frame was built for Rohloff and only that or other IGH hubs, uses the OEM axle plate. Thus, I have been clueless on how a lot of other bikes deal with that if they do not use the big arm attached to the chainstay. My frame can use either rim or disc brake, I bought the CSS rims that should last longer that I do and I went with rim brake. Photo is eight years old, it shows canti brakes in the photo, since then I have switched to V brakes.



WIth the dirt it is not easy to see, but there is a rectangular shaped knob that is in that extra long slot in the dropout to hold the hub from rotating.

Frame uses an eccentric bottom bracket for chain adjustment.

So, I appreciated seeing how that works on a Surly since I am not familiar with how that works.

garryg

I managed to install the Rohloff with some parts and guidance from cyclemonkey


Denham bars and roloff hub,she is different.i,m enjoying the switch to alt bars and the rohloff is nice although you still have to turn those crankarms

rifraf

G’day Garryg,
the “Hoff” can be an acquired taste and take some time to get to the point where you start to enjoy ownership.
Due to feedback through the pedals, many think they can feel “drag” and let negativity from others detract from an experience that’s really not negative.

Try not to let this be you because the noisiest detractors tend to be either people who’ve never owned the hub or those who too early on in the piece, fell for the negativity and passed their hub onward before enjoying the benefits.

I initially struggled with the noise when coasting which I found myself focusing on with embarrassment.
I managed to get passed this and the coffee grinding feedback often sited by detractors that never bothered me given I’ve never spent much time in the gears where this tends to be somewhat pronounced.

Saying that, for the money you pay, you might easily expect some sort of magic carpet ride which you simply won’t experience.
I simply savour the lack of derailuer to have to adjust and clean, the ability to change gear stationary or on the fly.

Some whinge about the extra weight rearward, but given I seldom lack a pair of loaded panniers on my rear rack, it’s not something that’s ever bothered me.

If I was to complain about anything, it would be additional stress regarding security of the pricey back wheel, which sometimes adds a level of paranoia, occasionally detracting from the days pleasure of cycling.

After a decade of ownership, I now couldn’t imagine having a bike without one but understand that they aren’t for everyone given we are all different.

I hope you enjoy the hub.
Nice looking Disk Trucker by the way

Tourist in MSN

I took a quick scan of my previous posts in this thread, I have no new advice.

Looks like a threaded sprocket, not splined. Eventually when you want to remove the sprocket you will need the Rohloff tool for that, unless a local shop has that tool. I do not think any shops in my community have one.

I think you will be happy with it. But, for some things derailleurs are better, that is why I still have derailleur bikes along with my Rohloff bike.

djb

Well written balanced comments, even to someone who has never ridden a bike with one.

randallr

After 5 years and 20,000 some odd miles (no odometer), life in Rohloff land has me saying as I ride along, "Danke, mein Gott, fur mein fahrrad mit Rohloff!" I am totally spoiled by its seemingly indestructible, totally reliable nature. Each gear stepped the same amount from the one below and the one above, as much range as a mtn bike triple, lowest maintenance drivetrain I've ever owned, chainline always perfect . . . . I could go on . . .

I wrecked my bike at high speed last fall descending a canyon above Boulder. Fell on my right side, caused an embarrassing amount of work to be needed on my body. A derailleur would have been mangled well and truly.
Absolutely no work needed on my bike's shifting pieces/parts.


with gravel tires

djb

Mein Gott en himmel, no odometer?!

I have to say, if I had oodles of expendable income, I could very well see getting a belt drive bike, either Pinion or a Rohlof. That would be pretty cool.

Tourist in MSN

The people that I have talked to with belts are very happy with them. But I am happy to stay with chains. Since I run a different size chainring for touring than for riding near home, I can add or subtract four links and swap chainrings, a belt would make that expensive and complicated.

randallr

I run Connex stainless 8SX chains on mine with a Surly SS chain ring and run until I'm at about 1% wear, then swap out chain and flip chain ring and sprocket. Gives a pretty long interval before maintenance.

ChrisWagner

Belt drives require clever engineering for a clean and painless execution. Chain drive for the win.

From Surly FAQ page:
You know that serial number on the underside of your bottom bracket? No?! Ok, so flip your bike over and take a look closely at the bottom bracket shell (the cylinder at the bottom of the frame around which your crank rotates). There will be a code stamped into the shell starting with the letter "M". Sometimes this stamp has a bunch of paint that has collected in it but look closely, it is there, I promise. The following number after the M signifies the last digit(s) of the production year of your frame. So, for instance, M2598144 was made in 2002, M8128666 was made in 2008 and M10034269 was made in 2010.