Front friction shifter problem (Gevenalle)
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Front friction shifter problem (Gevenalle)
Having invested in a pair of Gevenalle shifters recently (3x9, friction front, indexed rear with friction option) the last couple of days I've started having a problem with shifting onto the larger front rings, the lever keeps springing back. First it was the largest ring, now it's the middle ring as well. So basically I'm down to the lowest gears - not a major problem given my current terrain but will be soon.
Not been doing a lot of distance, but have done a lot of climbing and tough roads.
There's a pretty good thread here on the same problem:
https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6305/front-friction-shifter-problem
But there's no obvious wingnut screw on the Gevenalle shifter to tighten. Anyone with experience of the Gevenalle setup and this problem?
Always keen on simpler fixes where possible rather than the 'take everything apart ' ones.
Edit: these are the ones I have https://www.gevenalle.com/product/cx2/
Not been doing a lot of distance, but have done a lot of climbing and tough roads.
There's a pretty good thread here on the same problem:
https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6305/front-friction-shifter-problem
But there's no obvious wingnut screw on the Gevenalle shifter to tighten. Anyone with experience of the Gevenalle setup and this problem?
Always keen on simpler fixes where possible rather than the 'take everything apart ' ones.
Edit: these are the ones I have https://www.gevenalle.com/product/cx2/
#2
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Having invested in a pair of Gevenalle shifters recently (3x9, friction front, indexed rear with friction option) the last couple of days I've started having a problem with shifting onto the larger front rings, the lever keeps springing back. First it was the largest ring, now it's the middle ring as well. So basically I'm down to the lowest gears - not a major problem given my current terrain but will be soon.
Not been doing a lot of distance, but have done a lot of climbing and tough roads.
There's a pretty good thread here on the same problem:
https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q...hifter-problem
But there's no obvious wingnut screw on the Gevenalle shifter to tighten. Anyone with experience of the Gevenalle setup and this problem?
Always keen on simpler fixes where possible rather than the 'take everything apart ' ones.
Edit: these are the ones I have https://www.gevenalle.com/product/cx2/
Not been doing a lot of distance, but have done a lot of climbing and tough roads.
There's a pretty good thread here on the same problem:
https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q...hifter-problem
But there's no obvious wingnut screw on the Gevenalle shifter to tighten. Anyone with experience of the Gevenalle setup and this problem?
Always keen on simpler fixes where possible rather than the 'take everything apart ' ones.
Edit: these are the ones I have https://www.gevenalle.com/product/cx2/
#3
ignominious poltroon
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I have the bar-end shifters they use to do this modification. There is a tightening bolt on the side.
I assume it would still work the same way.
I assume it would still work the same way.
#4
Senior Member
I just keep the center wing nut tight on mine and apply an occasional drop of lubricant inside. Rivendell Silver shifter on Gevenalle Audax lever pictured ...

If yours loosens again maybe put some loc-tite on the bolt threads?

If yours loosens again maybe put some loc-tite on the bolt threads?
Last edited by BobG; 12-31-22 at 12:25 PM. Reason: delete previous comments
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Great, thanks for the replies 👍 I'll have some time to work on this tomorrow morning.
I think for the shifters I have these are the suggestions I'll follow (the video is particularly helpful):
I think for the shifters I have these are the suggestions I'll follow (the video is particularly helpful):
I have the bar-end shifters they use to do this modification. There is a tightening bolt on the side.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ce4kiPS-5M
I assume it would still work the same way.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ce4kiPS-5M
I assume it would still work the same way.
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#7
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" So basically I'm down to the lowest gears - not a major problem given my current terrain but will be soon."
Although it is not a major problem now it can be a very dangerous one later. I have friction shifters on a restored Branch Trofeo. A couple years ago I was unaware that the thesis on the shifter was loose. As I got up the saddle to go up a small hill the chain moved from the large chainring all the way off of the small one. With no tension on the drive train I fell on my side. The result was a broken hip. Take care of it now rather than later.
Although it is not a major problem now it can be a very dangerous one later. I have friction shifters on a restored Branch Trofeo. A couple years ago I was unaware that the thesis on the shifter was loose. As I got up the saddle to go up a small hill the chain moved from the large chainring all the way off of the small one. With no tension on the drive train I fell on my side. The result was a broken hip. Take care of it now rather than later.
#8
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This past summer a friend of mine had a shifting problem on his Microshift bar end shifter, I do not recall if it was the indexed rear or friction front, but I solved it with a tightening of the screw with an allen wrench. This is the only Microshift bar end shifter that I have touched.
And a few years ago I rode a 200k brevet and after completing it another rider complained that part way through her rear Microshift bar end shifter would shift to the highest gear unless she held onto it with her hand. After several hours of hanging onto the shifter, she gave up and rode much of the time in the highest gear. She had the shifters installed by a bike shop shortly before that event, thus had minimal experience with them.
I do not have enough experience with Microshift bar end shifters to know if there is a magic solution to this shifter working loose or not, but I am starting to suspect removable thread locker like Loctite might be a solution.
Last time I bought any threadlocker, this is what I bought:
https://www.truevalue.com/6-ml-remov...hread-locker-1
Have been using that for several years on rack bolts, fender bolts, etc. There are other brands too, Loctite is often mentioned.
And a few years ago I rode a 200k brevet and after completing it another rider complained that part way through her rear Microshift bar end shifter would shift to the highest gear unless she held onto it with her hand. After several hours of hanging onto the shifter, she gave up and rode much of the time in the highest gear. She had the shifters installed by a bike shop shortly before that event, thus had minimal experience with them.
I do not have enough experience with Microshift bar end shifters to know if there is a magic solution to this shifter working loose or not, but I am starting to suspect removable thread locker like Loctite might be a solution.
Last time I bought any threadlocker, this is what I bought:
https://www.truevalue.com/6-ml-remov...hread-locker-1
Have been using that for several years on rack bolts, fender bolts, etc. There are other brands too, Loctite is often mentioned.
#9
Newbie
problem solved i'm happy
I would like to ask a question about gevenalle
i have mechanical levers but i am thinking about upgrading to hylex hydraulic brakes can i just change the adapter for the microshift?
are the adapters for hydraulic and mechanical levers the same?
I would like to ask a question about gevenalle
i have mechanical levers but i am thinking about upgrading to hylex hydraulic brakes can i just change the adapter for the microshift?
are the adapters for hydraulic and mechanical levers the same?
#10
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This past summer a friend of mine had a shifting problem on his Microshift bar end shifter, I do not recall if it was the indexed rear or friction front, but I solved it with a tightening of the screw with an allen wrench. This is the only Microshift bar end shifter that I have touched.
And a few years ago I rode a 200k brevet and after completing it another rider complained that part way through her rear Microshift bar end shifter would shift to the highest gear unless she held onto it with her hand. After several hours of hanging onto the shifter, she gave up and rode much of the time in the highest gear. She had the shifters installed by a bike shop shortly before that event, thus had minimal experience with them.
I do not have enough experience with Microshift bar end shifters to know if there is a magic solution to this shifter working loose or not, but I am starting to suspect removable thread locker like Loctite might be a solution.
Last time I bought any threadlocker, this is what I bought:
https://www.truevalue.com/6-ml-remov...hread-locker-1
Have been using that for several years on rack bolts, fender bolts, etc. There are other brands too, Loctite is often mentioned.
And a few years ago I rode a 200k brevet and after completing it another rider complained that part way through her rear Microshift bar end shifter would shift to the highest gear unless she held onto it with her hand. After several hours of hanging onto the shifter, she gave up and rode much of the time in the highest gear. She had the shifters installed by a bike shop shortly before that event, thus had minimal experience with them.
I do not have enough experience with Microshift bar end shifters to know if there is a magic solution to this shifter working loose or not, but I am starting to suspect removable thread locker like Loctite might be a solution.
Last time I bought any threadlocker, this is what I bought:
https://www.truevalue.com/6-ml-remov...hread-locker-1
Have been using that for several years on rack bolts, fender bolts, etc. There are other brands too, Loctite is often mentioned.
The issue the OP described is not a Microshift specific issue. It can be an issue on Shimano bar end shifters and even old SunTour ratcheting friction shifters. If there isnt enough counter-tension on the screw in the shifter, then it the cable will adjust until it is in a neutral position, which means the derailleur will move in kind. When set up properly, all brands will keep the tension at the level you want.
#11
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The issue the OP described is not a Microshift specific issue. It can be an issue on Shimano bar end shifters and even old SunTour ratcheting friction shifters. If there isnt enough counter-tension on the screw in the shifter, then it the cable will adjust until it is in a neutral position, which means the derailleur will move in kind. When set up properly, all brands will keep the tension at the level you want.
But I have talked to two people that had that problem with Microshift, one of those I fixed it for him by tightening the screw for him. The other one, she said she was taking the bike to the shop that installed the shifters less than a week earlier so I did not try to fix her bike.
Perhaps your experience is different than mine.
I never used the Suntour bar end ratcheting shifters, at that time I had the old Shimano ones that had a return spring, and yes those did require periodic adjustment.
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#13
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Thread Starter
" So basically I'm down to the lowest gears - not a major problem given my current terrain but will be soon."
Although it is not a major problem now it can be a very dangerous one later. I have friction shifters on a restored Branch Trofeo. A couple years ago I was unaware that the thesis on the shifter was loose. As I got up the saddle to go up a small hill the chain moved from the large chainring all the way off of the small one. With no tension on the drive train I fell on my side. The result was a broken hip. Take care of it now rather than later.
Although it is not a major problem now it can be a very dangerous one later. I have friction shifters on a restored Branch Trofeo. A couple years ago I was unaware that the thesis on the shifter was loose. As I got up the saddle to go up a small hill the chain moved from the large chainring all the way off of the small one. With no tension on the drive train I fell on my side. The result was a broken hip. Take care of it now rather than later.
#14
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I saw they had a trade-in option but didn't get a chance to look at it.On a side note,I'm thinking of adapting a set of Hylex levers to a set of Magura rim hydros..should be a fun project if I can find a set of used levers somewhere..
#16
Newbie
sounds interesting
I thought about it and decided that I would buy a new set of gevenalle hydro if I find it
I have committed to building a new bike which entails changing wheels and brakes thanks to true axle and flat mount
but I'm afraid that I won't be able to find them on the site, they're out of stock, and I'm in Georgia and there's no such thing in LBS
I thought about it and decided that I would buy a new set of gevenalle hydro if I find it
I have committed to building a new bike which entails changing wheels and brakes thanks to true axle and flat mount
but I'm afraid that I won't be able to find them on the site, they're out of stock, and I'm in Georgia and there's no such thing in LBS
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First off thx for riding with us!
Regarding slipping shift levers, tighten central bolt as noted by fellow members here PLUS a great help is to remove bolt and apply a drop of blue thread lock first to ensure it holds position. The Microshift levers do need this to reliably work well and when done provide a very smooth shifting experience. The Shimano down tube and bar end lever do not require this (and really never slip) but we utilize levers manufactured by Microshift (these are not stock as sadly those are not compatible) as we much prefer the easier shifting experience they provide (much easier on fingers for a few hundred shifts a day!).
The shape of the front of the cable and hydro brake levers are quite different and as such we do have different mounts for each - so the mounts from the cable levers will not reliable mount to the front of the hydro levers, for this reason we provide a trade up program which we believe is good value compared to pricing out a set of TRP levers separately for example.
Cheers!
The Goats
Gevenalle
Regarding slipping shift levers, tighten central bolt as noted by fellow members here PLUS a great help is to remove bolt and apply a drop of blue thread lock first to ensure it holds position. The Microshift levers do need this to reliably work well and when done provide a very smooth shifting experience. The Shimano down tube and bar end lever do not require this (and really never slip) but we utilize levers manufactured by Microshift (these are not stock as sadly those are not compatible) as we much prefer the easier shifting experience they provide (much easier on fingers for a few hundred shifts a day!).
The shape of the front of the cable and hydro brake levers are quite different and as such we do have different mounts for each - so the mounts from the cable levers will not reliable mount to the front of the hydro levers, for this reason we provide a trade up program which we believe is good value compared to pricing out a set of TRP levers separately for example.
Cheers!
The Goats
Gevenalle
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#18
Newbie
First off thx for riding with us!
Regarding slipping shift levers, tighten central bolt as noted by fellow members here PLUS a great help is to remove bolt and apply a drop of blue thread lock first to ensure it holds position. The Microshift levers do need this to reliably work well and when done provide a very smooth shifting experience. The Shimano down tube and bar end lever do not require this (and really never slip) but we utilize levers manufactured by Microshift (these are not stock as sadly those are not compatible) as we much prefer the easier shifting experience they provide (much easier on fingers for a few hundred shifts a day!).
The shape of the front of the cable and hydro brake levers are quite different and as such we do have different mounts for each - so the mounts from the cable levers will not reliable mount to the front of the hydro levers, for this reason we provide a trade up program which we believe is good value compared to pricing out a set of TRP levers separately for example.
Cheers!
The Goats
Gevenalle
Regarding slipping shift levers, tighten central bolt as noted by fellow members here PLUS a great help is to remove bolt and apply a drop of blue thread lock first to ensure it holds position. The Microshift levers do need this to reliably work well and when done provide a very smooth shifting experience. The Shimano down tube and bar end lever do not require this (and really never slip) but we utilize levers manufactured by Microshift (these are not stock as sadly those are not compatible) as we much prefer the easier shifting experience they provide (much easier on fingers for a few hundred shifts a day!).
The shape of the front of the cable and hydro brake levers are quite different and as such we do have different mounts for each - so the mounts from the cable levers will not reliable mount to the front of the hydro levers, for this reason we provide a trade up program which we believe is good value compared to pricing out a set of TRP levers separately for example.
Cheers!
The Goats
Gevenalle
hydraulic levers compatible with 11 speed mtb shimano should be expected in July
but i found the right conversion kit in uk and ordered it
and hydraulic brakes trp hyped separately