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I have had an REI down bag for many years. Sub 2 pounds. With a compression sack it gets down small. My REI Quarter Dome tent is 3.25 pounds with two doors. It’s my “flat tour” tent and has served me well for many years of bike touring and car camping. Never understood why they discontinued it. Both were bought on sale.
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Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
(Post 23623708)
Late season or winter camping up in northern part of USA, days are short, batteries in your headlamp are even more important, and when those batteries are chilled, they don't last as long. For that I also like to bring a tent light that I can hang inside the tent.
Have a great six day trip. I hope the shower building is heated, they often are not. Depending on where you are they might have been shut down for winter. |
Originally Posted by indyfabz
(Post 23623777)
I have had an REI down bag for many years. Sub 2 pounds. With a compression sack it gets down small. My REI Quarter Dome tent is 3.25 pounds with two doors. It’s my “flat tour” tent and has served me well for many years of bike touring and car camping. Never understood why they discontinued it. Both were bought on sale.
Both of our day packs and down jackets are REI and we have no complaints for the price. The down jacket model I purchased does not fold into itself in a pocket, but I was willing to lose that feature for the price point. All of this was purchased during their various sales. On the flipside, I myself bought an REI sleeping bag a few years back and was miserable in temps that I should have been warm enough in. Promptly returned it and spent $100 more on a Mountain Hardwear bag rated for 0 degrees and have been warm and comfortable ever since no matter the conditions outside. But this can happen with any brand, results will vary from model to model, person to person. |
Originally Posted by djb
(Post 23623692)
without a doubt, less bike+load weight means less effort for the same distance, makes quite a difference with lots of climbing, and for a lot of us old geezers (most of us I suspect) it just makes a difference in enjoying the activity, especially with sometimes longer distances between campgrounds, or towns, or whatever.
So the important thing, for me, is to know how far I can go, with what I have, over the type of terrain I encounter, so as to arrive at an hour that gives me time eat and set up for the night. It's not the other way around where I'd figure what weight I should carry to able to be at a certain place at a certain time. In the same way, I plan to continue to train intensely over the winter to be a lot stronger come spring so that it'll be so much easier to move forward. Again, not by reducing weight, but by being stronger. I've found that getting older I wish for more comfort, but that is in the opposite direction to less weight (which of course I wouldn't mind). I used to backpack with a 10+ lb Jansport Mountain Dome tent and a several pound Jansport Brass Bed sleeping bag, to then sleep on a 1/2" thick foam pad on solid rock on top of a mountain in the Adirondacks. I couldn't have been happier. Now I struggle on a bike with a 7 lb tent, a 1.5 lb sleeping bag and a 1 lb plush air mattress and inflatable pillow. But I'm very comfortable at night (a bit to my surprise). |
I honestly think a few pounds of gear more or less makes way less difference than wind strength or direction: a factor that can rarely be planned for if the goal is a certain distance in a day.
Some days you fly, some days you slog. For me the biggest factor is getting up and away early in the morning, and getting lots of miles in before lunch break - especially if riding in hot weather. I typically wake up at 6 a.m and am on the road an hour later. I love the early morning hours :) |
Off course I look into weight when buying stuff, and when packing for a trip. Not to go faster, not at all. Off road touring is slow, extra slow in general, and that’s nice. To me it still makes a difference if I carry 20kg or 15kg when climbing. I want to control my bike, not the bike me ;)
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Originally Posted by imi
(Post 23623946)
I honestly think a few pounds of gear more or less makes way less difference than wind strength or direction: a factor that can rarely be planned for if the goal is a certain distance in a day.
Some days you fly, some days you slog. For me the biggest factor is getting up and away early in the morning, and getting lots of miles in before lunch break - especially if riding in hot weather. I typically wake up at 6 a.m and am on the road an hour later. I love the early morning hours :) Some days with a tailwind, I reach my planned destination early and then decide to go another 20 miles (~30km). Or days with a strong headwind, will try to get off the road early and wait it out. On my solo trips where the route planning committee consists of only myself, I often change the plan I made only hours earlier. On my longer trips where an airplane ticket dictates when my last day will be, near the end of my route I might be a couple days early where I am adding more sightseeing or intentionally taking shorter days. For me it is usually two hours between getting out of my sleeping bag and rolling down the road, but that includes making coffee and breakfast. I am almost never on the road this early, but I wanted to make the first ferry of the day and had to ride for a while to get to it. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5b4ba2f390.jpg Mosquitos were out early that morning. |
Originally Posted by imi
(Post 23623946)
I honestly think a few pounds of gear more or less makes way less difference than wind strength or direction: a factor that can rarely be planned for if the goal is a certain distance in a day.
Some days you fly, some days you slog. For me the biggest factor is getting up and away early in the morning, and getting lots of miles in before lunch break - especially if riding in hot weather. I typically wake up at 6 a.m and am on the road an hour later. I love the early morning hours :) It helps if you are also into backpacking, but I know many may not do both. |
Although it would conflict with your frugality, you can save a lot of weight by leaving the camping and cooking gear home. Ot even more, on routes like the GAP, by using a shuttle. I encountered a group on the GAP, doing exactly that, using a shuttle and staying in B&Bs. Of course, one day they spent 20 miles going the wrong direction which slowed them down to my snail like pace.
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Speaking of REI…Store closures.
I’ve bought fuel at the SoHo store twice while in NYC shortly before September trips. https://www.nj.com/bergen/2025/10/po...outputType=amp |
OP here. The weight reduction adventure came about from trying to lift the fully loaded rig and really straining. Then, unfortunately, I decided to weigh the sleeping bag and realized everything I own, including my bikes and my cars, is old. Some of it really, really old, and heavy. I imagined the amount of energy used up by excessively heavy stuff and decided to do something about it.
Some practical things such as not toting a cook kit saved a pound. I don't cook anyway and just brought it along for the idea of self-sufficiency. Other items such as the Buck Knife 110 are replaced with other smaller and lighter replacements. As it is, I am keeping a vigilant watch for sales on lighter quilts in the extra long variety. Not many of them available in the 87-90 inch length. |
Originally Posted by TiHabanero
(Post 23624846)
Some practical things such as not toting a cook kit saved a pound. I don't cook anyway and just brought it along for the idea of self-sufficiency.
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Paul P, I normally eat my food cold at home, won't be any different for me on the road. Don't drink coffee or tea, just water and a RC Cola once in a while when in need of quick sugar. I forgot about the weight of fuel for the stove. Although it isn't much as it is an alcohol burner, it is weight I don't need to carry.
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If you’re eliminating the fuel I recommend eliminating the stove as well. And definitely eliminate the fuel if you have eliminated the stove. Just some thoughts.
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Most of my meals on a bike tour are in a campsite, so for me the cook kit and stove is a must. I used to mostly rely on liquid fuel stoves, but for bike tours I am slowly switching to butane mix type stoves. If I need more fuel, liquid fuel is typically sold in gallon cans, I would much rather buy only the amount I need in the smaller butane canisters. And to make things a little heavier, I am using my old stainless pots more and titanium cooking pot less for bike tours. The titanium is being saved for backpacking trips where weight is more important.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ebf3ee34ef.jpg That said, where I can get a good restaurant meal, I certainly take advantage of that. Stove fuel, depending on type of trip or type of stove, I plan on 35 to 55 grams of fuel per day per person. (That is fuel only, not weight of containers.) But more restaurant meals means less fuel use. |
Reducing Weight
I've read a lot of the postings regarding gear weight on ******'s sub****** ultralightweight as well as the bikepacking and bicycle touring sub******s. The biggest changes I've made: 1) Got a quilt, ditched the sleeping bag; 2) Got a lightweight, but high R-value pad; 3) Went to a lightweight, 2P, 3 season tent with packable poles; 4) Reduced cooking gear to a minimum - just a MSR Pocket Rocket, some gas - to boil water and rehydrate meals, just to name a few of the changes I've made. My goal is NOT to go as light as possible as I feel what I would gain in weight reduction I lose in comfort.
Total gear weight + panniers' weight was 43 lbs for 23 day, 1,227 mile trip. I bigger challenge, I've found, is not reducing weight, but reducing bulk of the gear. |
Originally Posted by jkinner
(Post 23625145)
I bigger challenge, I've found, is not reducing weight, but reducing bulk of the gear. |
I bought an air mattress for my second bike tour. The self inflating pad that I used on my first tour was too big. Even though my new air mattress weighed more than the old pad, I have stuck with air mattresses since for bike touring because they pack down much smaller.
Sometimes on a bike tour where I know in advance that I will be far from grocery stores, I might have over 20 liters of food. My Iceland trip, I think I had over 30 liters of food when I went into the interior, had two and a half weeks of food. |
Indyfabz, I got a chuckle from your post. To eliminate one without eliminating the other is rather silly. Ditch them both at the same time. I suppose if you rode for the state, then doing one without doing the other makes some kind of sense to a bureaucrat.
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I'm going to treat myself to a luxury starting this week. It's a Red Cross solar powered combination flashlight and lantern a friend gave me. Only 9.14 oz. Weight is offset, at least in part, by a smaller than fuel bottle (with fuel in it) and less coffee, since the trip is relatively short. Might come in handy with the short days.
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Originally Posted by indyfabz
(Post 23627005)
I'm going to treat myself to a luxury starting this week. It's a Red Cross solar powered combination flashlight and lantern a friend gave me. Only 9.14 oz. Weight is offset, at least in part, by a smaller than fuel bottle (with fuel in it) and less coffee, since the trip is relatively short. Might come in handy with the short days.
I use a PFD (or life jacket) light for my tent light, two AAA batteries. Not the strobe, the constant on version. https://www.westmarine.com/acr-elect...-17623695.html https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...15187a9474.jpg And a headlamp powered by AA or AAA batteries. Thrunite TH20, older style that is no longer made. (They have a new version now.) Uses single AA battery that is adjustable for light output. This uses one AA battery. It can use a Lithium Ion battery instead, but I am sticking with AA batteries. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1aac5b821b.png |
Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
(Post 23627132)
Good luck with that. I prefer light producing devices that I can change the batteries when I need to. I would hate to run out of power and have to wait for the sun to rise to charge my device.
I use a PFD (or life jacket) light for my tent light, two AAA batteries. Not the strobe, the constant on version. https://www.westmarine.com/acr-elect...-17623695.html https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...15187a9474.jpg And a headlamp powered by AA or AAA batteries. Thrunite TH20, older style that is no longer made. (They have a new version now.) Uses single AA battery that is adjustable for light output. This uses one AA battery. It can use a Lithium Ion battery instead, but I am sticking with AA batteries. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1aac5b821b.png |
as an aside, with a headlamp or flashlight, one can make an effective light diffuser using some opaque white packing foam type stuff and an elastic to hold it in place. Make a sort of dome shape over the light source and or including a piece of white paper as a reflector and while not perfect, its fairly easy to get a nice diffused light source for inside a tent or at a picnic table.
The bigger the "dome" or thereabouts shape, means a larger diffuse lighting source. both foam packing and paper and elastic don't really weigh anything, so worth playing around with trying it out at home. I used to work doing photography lighting, so specifically thinking all the time about how to modify light, and this is a pretty effective way to diffuse a directional harsh beam. |
Originally Posted by djb
(Post 23627163)
as an aside, with a headlamp or flashlight, one can make an effective light diffuser using some opaque white packing foam type stuff and an elastic to hold it in place. Make a sort of dome shape over the light source and or including a piece of white paper as a reflector and while not perfect, its fairly easy to get a nice diffused light source for inside a tent or at a picnic table.
The bigger the "dome" or thereabouts shape, means a larger diffuse lighting source. both foam packing and paper and elastic don't really weigh anything, so worth playing around with trying it out at home. I used to work doing photography lighting, so specifically thinking all the time about how to modify light, and this is a pretty effective way to diffuse a directional harsh beam. The PFD light I use has no focusing lens, emits light over a hemisphere shaped area. |
Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
(Post 23627573)
Or, <insert drum roll to build suspense>, use a piece of Scotch tape over the lens.
The PFD light I use has no focusing lens, emits light over a hemisphere shaped area. But I tend not to leave a light on for a long time, so whatever works is fine by me. |
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