Bike Forums - Modifying chain breaker for tour

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Modifying chain breaker for tour

Hi. I am perpetually on the lookout for a small, light chain breaker. I will be taking a long trip later this year, and am again looking. In the past I have carried the Park Tool compact chain tool. It is supposed to be 77 grams, 2.7 ounces, which isn't that heavy, but it seems heavy and a little awkward with the attached handle to hold the chain breaker and the moveable rod to twist the pin.

I am looking at the Lyzyne multi chain pliers, which would replace my Wolf Tooth chain pliers but add a chain breaker.

I am also thinking of the following, and solicit comments. I already carry an assortment of bits for a small ratchet wrench. Those could replace the turning handle. I already carry a small Knipex wrench. If the body has flats, the wrench could hold the chain breaker body and replace the attached handle. Since I already carry these tools, removing them from the chain breaker should make is lighter and smaller.

Topeak and Pedro both have a chain breaker with relatively flat sides and separate wrenches to turn the pin. I could cut and grind off the handle for the chain breaker and hold it with my wrench. I could use the hex wrench I already have to turn the pin. All of this would save some weight and, perhaps more importantly, reduce some bulk.

What are your thoughts?
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a629223b62.jpg
Pedro's compact chain tool
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0c6cfe79ef.jpg
Topeak super chain tool 13s

I have the Topeak multi tool, has a chain breaker in the kit. Have not had to use it yet but seems practical.

You did not say anything about your drivetrain. It is my experience that just about any chain breaker will do with the wider chains like eight speed. I have one bike with a 10 speed, the rest of my bikes use eight speed chains. The narrow chains like 10 or more cogs need a much more robust chain tool. If you are using a 10 or 11 or more, make sure your tool will actually work before you leave home. Last year I tried to help someone that broke an 11 speed chain, I tried to help but my chain tool was not up to the task.

Someone mentioned the Wolf Tooth tools above, their bits are a different size than the quarter inch bits that are commonly used with other brands like Presta Cycle ratchets and bits. If mixing and matching, make sure that you are using compatible stuff.

I lost a Torx bit a couple days ago, it fell out of my bit holder into the grass. Five minutes later I gave up looking. I was at home, not stranded, I can replace that bit easily. Point being that I try to make sure I won't be stranded if one of my tools fails or gets lost.

I know I did not answer your questions, instead gave you a few more questions to ask. Sorry if I made things more complicated.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobh123 (Post 23738806)

Hi. I am perpetually on the lookout for a small, light chain breaker. I will be taking a long trip later this year, and am again looking.

i thought all modern chains now use qwik-links.

Maybe he's taking a spare chain on tour? Those usually need to be sized down with a chain breaker before using a quick link. Or is going with a couple people so they can't pre-size the chain for any one bike.

I've had repair situations where there was a partial link sitting on the broken chain I had to remove before too, before putting in a new quick link - old one was far down the road somewhere. If you know what gear combinations to avoid sometimes you can make it home on a too short chain. So you still need a breaker for repairs like that as well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by saddlesores (Post 23738943)

i thought all modern chains now use qwik-links.

I carry a chain breaker for those unusal situations like a wrecked rear derailleur where you could shorten the chain and have a single speed bike until you can buy a new derailleur, where again you’d probably need to shorten the new chain a bit.

I haven’t used it in 40 years… but there again I said that about spare spokes… until last summer

Quote:

Originally Posted by imi (Post 23739060)

I carry a chain breaker for those unusal situations like a wrecked rear derailleur where you could shorten the chain and have a single speed bike

Back in my mountain biking days we'd make sure there was one chain breaker in the group. A common breakdown was a stick in the spokes that would tear the derailleur off. We'd discard the derailleur & shorten the chain to fit one chainring/cog combination so the rider could pedal out in a gear of their choice. The Park CT-5 always worked for me.

Quote:

Originally Posted by saddlesores (Post 23738943)

i thought all modern chains now use qwik-links.

When I was in the middle of Iceland, over 100 km from anything, I met a Brit that said he had broken his chain four times. It was so short now that he did not have many gears left. Nine speed drivetrain. I did not ask, I assumed that he removed two links each time he broke the chain.

I usually carry a few quick links, not just one. I had my Rohloff bike, that uses an eight speed chain. I gave him one of my spare eight speed quick links. I said it probably would not work, but if his chain got so short that he was stranded, it would be worth trying that eight speed quick link on a nine speed chain, as that might get him rolling again.

I suggested he not pedal really hard when downshifting.

Thanks for the quick and useful comments. Here are some replies and additional information.

There are some multi-tools that have chain breakers. There is the Topeak one noted by a commenter. Crank Brothers has another. They don't sell the chain breaker separate from the multi-tool. I like my setup of a separate ratchet wrench and standard-sized 1/4" bits. Using the hex keys, etc. on a multi-tool would be slow and frustrating, and wouldn't give sufficient access to some bolts due to either the bulk of the multi-tool or short reach of the hex keys. So, adding a multi-tool just to get the chain breaker would add bulk and weight to my setup without adding utility.

The Wolf Tooth Encase has a chain breaker, but it only comes with a plug tool, which I don't need since I prefer tubes to tubeless. They also have a chain breaker that comes with a utility knife. The Encase weighs 46g, which is lighter than the Park Tool chain breaker, but looks like it could be a little fiddly to install in my drop handlebars. I don't need the utility knife, and that tool weighs the same as the Park Tool chain breaker. Wolf Tooth is pretty good quality, so I'll think about the Encase.

By the way, Topeak also has a chain breaker that goes in the handlebars without the other multi-functions. It weight 52 g, so is a little heaver than the Encase but a little lighter than the Park Tool chain breaker. Like the Encase it would move the bulk of the tool to the handlebars, and may be less fiddly than the Encase system. It's not cheap.

One downside of any in-the-handlebar tool is that I ride a couple of bikes. If I want the tool available on all bikes, I would need to get several of the tools so I could install one in each bike, or swap the tool each time I change bikes. That having been said, I don't typically take a chain breaker with me when I am on riding in town. So, this may or may not become an issue.

I have an 11-speed chain. Good point that I should make sure whatever solution I go with can actually punch out a rivet on a 11-speed chain. I know the Park Tool chain breaker can do so.

I carry a couple of quick-links. If I have to remove the chain for some reason, such as to replace it, I use the quick-link and use some Wolf Tooth masterlink pliers to loosen the quick-link. The chain breaker is for (1) shortening the chain if I replace the chain in the middle of a tour due to wear or damage (a new chain is never the correct length), (2) cutting out a bad link of a chain if it gets damaged, and using a quick connect to rejoin the chain, or (3) if a derailleur becomes inoperable, letting me remove the nonfunctional derailleur and shorten the chain an appropriate amount to make the bike a single-speed chain and bike until I can get to a repair shop to replace the derailleur and chain. I've never had to do #2 or #3 in the field, but I almost had to do #3 once. Fortunately I was able to get the derailleur working before I actually cut the chain.

I'm looking at the Topeak multi-tool. It looks a little bulky. It weighs 62 g, so the same as the Park Tool chain breaker, but would let me not bring the Wolf Tooth chain pliers, which weigh 39 g, so there would be a net savings of weight. The Lezyne multi chain pliers look nicer and seem to be better quality than the Topeak, and are about the same weight and cost, but are less bulky.

Back to my original question: any comments on the idea of cutting a small stand-along chain breaker to remove the handle, and using the pliers and wrenches I otherwise will have on a trip to hold the chain breaker and turn the pin? Thanks for your thoughts.

KMC Mini Chain Tool.
If you dump the 5mm hex key that comes with it, and hold it with pliers instead of the screw on handle, it weighs 36g and is tiny.
Works with chains to 12 speed, but does not work on 1/8 single speeds chains.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobh123 (Post 23739276)

Thanks for clearly putting down those details and preferences.
I was going to suggest the lezyne multitool because the chain breaker works so well, but given your preferences and wanting to keep stuff small and light, multi tools are out.
I've just got the thing and so it is what I carry, and because of this haven't really looked into the smaller options out there, some of them look very smart and totally useable for what we generally need.
Personally I would shy against cutting a handle down on a stand alone chain tool, I find it works so much better and easily when you have the proper grip, but I guess you'll have to judge how improvisation will do if you go this route.....kinda hard cuz once it's cut, it's cut

It is really cool how there are such smart designs of smaller kits, I just haven't really kept track of them, for now anyway.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobh123 (Post 23739276)

...
Back to my original question: any comments on the idea of cutting a small stand-along chain breaker to remove the handle, and using the pliers and wrenches I otherwise will have on a trip to hold the chain breaker and turn the pin? Thanks for your thoughts.

It takes a lot of force to shove a pin out of an 11 speed chain, not sure if removing the handle and trying to hold the chain tool with a pliers will suffice. Perhaps you should try that before you cut anything. Especially if your pliers is so light that you are willing to carry that instead of the handle on the chain tool, that does not sound like a very robust pliers.

Cutting tool steel can be a chore. Is the handle something that can easily be cut?

I am also prepping for a bike tour at this time. Two days ago I was sorting through my tools to put together a tool kit. But in my case, I am bringing my S&S coupled bike. I have to completely assemble the bike when I get to my destination, and at the end completely disassemble it again to pack it in the case for airline travel. I even have to remove my bottle cages and crank arms to pack it. I am bringing some shop sized tools, as I want to minimize my time assembling and disassembling the bike. I am happy to carry a few extra grams of weight to save time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobh123 (Post 23739276)

......Back to my original question: any comments on the idea of cutting a small stand-along chain breaker to remove the handle, and using the pliers and wrenches I otherwise will have on a trip to hold the chain breaker and turn the pin? Thanks for your thoughts.

I used to carry one of these (not sure of the brand) back before quik-links. the handle simply unscrews.
the turny-levery-thingie could be removed if you grind off the retaining pin at one end, and could possibly be replaced with a suitably-sized hexkey, although your hexkey might bend during use.

https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-601013.../dp/B005EP95ZC
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/...AC_SL1008_.jpg

WolfTooth claims the encase will bend into road bars:
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...dc084fa2d4.jpg

Never tried it myself. I don't think the tubeless repair fork is heavy and it doesn't take up any space if there isn't anything else in your handlebars anyway, so I'd just leave it on.

If you want to make it more useful, maybe you could cut one tine off the fork, bend the other, and you'd have a pick which is useful for shifter repair and cables.

Or grind it down to a flat screwdriver tip and discard any bit you are carrying for that. I don't think I have any slotted flat fasteners on my bike, but there's probably a battery cover with a slot somewhere. Or the back side of chainring bolts is often slotted. Might manage to turn a Phillips limit screw with a flat end in an emergency too.