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Park Tool TM-1 Spoke Tension Meter

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Park Tool TM-1 Spoke Tension Meter

Old 12-12-06, 08:43 PM
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Park Tool TM-1 Spoke Tension Meter

Everytime I feel my spokes some of them feel loose, so I just snug them up. So I just ordered the Park tension meter.From reading the mechanics forum they say 19 on the drive side and 14 on the non drive.What I don't know is, is that a road bike and not a loaded bike like you would tour on.I have disk brakes as well. So if the drive side is 19 would I go with 19 on the other side as well. Plus I weigh 200# and I'll probably be carrying,say 35# would the spoke tension be the same. Thanks George
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Old 12-13-06, 12:31 PM
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I don't think you can really go by a number someone bandies around (unless they built an identical wheel to a high standadrd). You have to go through the process of establishing the correct tension for the wheel you are building and then you can use that mark for subsequent identical wheels, as a check. I suppose if you were satisfied with your current wheels you could buy a meter and use it to check whether all the spokes were set to the same tension, though if you were satisfied, you probably wouldn't need to do that.

The basic process is to build a test wheel until the rim starts to deform, back off to true. Stress relieve the spokes in pairs by grabing parallel pairs on either side of the wheel and crunching them till they yield, then retruing the wheel. If you then measure spoke deflection you have a number you can use for subsequent wheels of identical design. So while the individual is most in need of the kind of info a tensionmeter can provide, he is often unable to use it unless he builds some identical wheels. Proper wheelbuilding practices are detailed here and there on the web.

Sounds like what your wheel needs is to be properly built in the first place, then you wouldn't get loose spokes and so forth. The problem can be in the rim or number of spokes etc... Some rims can't be properly tensioned so the process won't work on them, and they are doomed to loose spokes for ever. But there are some cheap products out there that will give good service in the touring market as well as premium rims like velocity or 719. Cheaper rims like DH22 or CR18 give good service when well built.
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Old 12-14-06, 10:22 PM
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The number is heavily dependent on the spoke gauge.
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Old 12-14-06, 11:19 PM
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Get the information for max spoke tension from the rim manufacturer. Then use the table that came with the tensiometer to find the number on the gauge. Get even tension close to that number on the drive side of the rear wheel. Then adjust the tension on the non drive side to give the right dish. Dont forget to look at Sheldon Brown's and Park Tool's websites for wheel trueing instructions
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Old 12-15-06, 08:40 AM
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AndrewP,yes I did call the manufacturer and he told me 120k,but I must say I'm a little worried as I never did this before and I don't want to screw the wheel up.I guess that's the only way I'll learn though.I sure appreciate it thanks.
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Old 12-15-06, 12:31 PM
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If you dont have a trueing stand, you can check the dish by flipping the wheel around in the dopouts to see that it is still even between the pads.
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Old 12-15-06, 01:00 PM
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You won't likely wreak the wheel unless it's dime store junk. The problem is on the other side that you won't properly tension it and that the wheel may not live up to it's potential. Just follow any online instructions on trueing till it shows signs of overtensioning, stress relieving, then retruing, and you will get a top quality wheel. Then note those tension measurements. Going with the tensionmeter may work as might a lot of things, but it's a shot in the dark until you prove those reading through the correct process. Whatever the factory tells you , remember there is a reason why one man shops can still make a living doing this stuff. The good news is they have passed on the main secrets and anyone can work through the same process.
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Old 12-15-06, 06:29 PM
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I really cant use the fork or dropout as a guide because I have disk brakes.
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