stripped eyelets from rack mount?
 

this happened to me on my cdale xr800. it is an aluminum frame with a single set of eyelets in the rear. i now have a cdale xs800 (identical save for the headshock). i am wondering if i should be mounting another rack on it, or if maybe these eyelets are only meant for fenders... the last time i definitely piled on the weight (jandd expedition rack plus a good 60 pounds a few times) and then happened to notice at the end of a tour that one of the screws was totally loose.

advice? should i maybe go with an alternative mounting strategy this time?

A few options:

- use an Old Man Mountain Cold Springs rack which attaches to a special QR skewer at the bottom

- replace the stripped screw with a slightly larger bolt and use a nut on the other end

- contact cannondale and ask them what's up and see what they suggest

It is a characteristic of aluminum that threads and holes can strip or wear oversize rather quickly. This is NOT a hit on aluminum bikes. C'dale 800's are great machines and I'm talking about alloy in general. Do what you can to minmize the weight on those tiny (read: sharp) fasteners. Or, go to a system suggested above that uses the skewer. The idea of using a nut on the end of the screw is good, but won't hold up over constant use, especially under the side loads from the top that the fastener will be exposed to. The threads can eventually cut their way oversize.

A good way to address that issue would be to ream (not drill) out the threads to the next standard major diameter, then install sleeve bolts to match the new hole. They have a smooth shank with threads only on the ends that protrude. The fit should be a 'slip fit' with little or no slop. That's why I say "next standard" because you should be able to easily get a sleeve bolt for any standard size reamer. Put a lockwasher/nut on that.

Assuming you mean the eyelets at the dropouts, not the seat stays. I am also guessing that you never retightened at any point in your tour which is more of a concern when you have an aluminum frame and steel bolts especially with the load you were carrying. It's easier to stip an aluminum eyelet vs steel. I would think that they should be able to handle a rack especially since it's a cyclocross bike so the eyelets were not intended to be used with traditional type of fenders due to clearance for mud etc... If there is enough space, more of an issue on the drive side, you can use a longer bolt and a nylock nut on the inside which would keep things tight and almost eliminate the bolt from coming loose. If you can add a larger washer, that would also help. I would be curious to hear what Cdale has to say but guessing they are goint to tell you, you should have just checked it periodically and re-tightened as needed.

Bolts
 

I have had the same problem with my T2000 Cannondale. The right side dropout hole enlarged and I am not able to place a nut on it due to the cassette and chain issue. I enlarged the hole one size and so far it has held. But, I am going on a 3100 plus mile tour next month and can see myself having to purchase a BOB trailer along the way if it happens again.

If you remove the wheel and place a bolt through from the inside you gain a little clearance, and can put a nut on the outside. This is how I mounted the rack and fenders to my Azuki frame, where the eyelets weren't threaded. Use a nylock nut and you shouldn't have any problems with it coming loose. I regularly carry loads of between 50 and 90 lbs of weight on my rack(though I don't ride very far with 90 lbs!)

great thanks for all the input. i remember looking at it to see about adding a nut and it seemed there were clearance issues. but i will check again when i get a chance.

one more question: i use the pitlock skewers and im wondering if anyone has tried a tubus or omm skewer mounting kit, but with a pitlock skewer.

Thanks
 

Thank you for the suggestion but I already tried that. There is not enough clearance for a bolt head or much of anything else.

The Old Man Mountain racks that mount at the QR will solve your problem.

Is there enough beef to recut the next size up threads and use a larger size bolt , without need of a larger nut? Had you used any locktite on the original bolt? Having stripped out crank arms, I am certainly concerned about the durability of aluminum whenever there is any looseness.

http://www.mec.ca/Main/content_text....=1170625310556

Check down that article a bit for info on the modification in the section "1 Millimetre".