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-   -   Soma Double Cross? (https://www.bikeforums.net/touring/369727-soma-double-cross.html)

RyeRey521 05-02-13 01:03 PM

ANYWAY....... lets get back on topic. When choosing my frame (upgrading from a SS cross bike), The Double cross, Cross Check, and C'mute were all on my list. I had access to Cross Check and C'mute in my size and rode both of them and although I dreamed of a disc brake double cross as my ideal commuter/ Light tourer, I chose the C'mute for the longest headtube out of the bunch and price that I wouldnt mind chaining it to things when I wanted to head into the city.

robow 05-02-13 01:21 PM


Originally Posted by RyeRey521 (Post 15580260)
Whoa whoa whoa.... were talking more along the lines of 3cm

Sorry, I didn't realize those adjustment screws were that long?? and here I just worked on a fellow tourist's CC a few weeks ago.

RyeRey521 05-02-13 01:36 PM

Lol guess you didn’t catch the humor in my post (I know we are only talking about a small amount of play)... And it's not the adjustment screws that matter, it’s the dropouts themselves... My frame did not come with screws and springs, so I sourced them from a local hardware store and bought ones that could allow for my axle to be placed in the full length of the dropouts... Now that I am set where I want them for now, I have bought more appropriately sized ones that do not have as much waste hanging out the back end...

rodar y rodar 05-02-13 07:42 PM

RR (the other RR), do you just set the B-screw with the wheel all the way back and leave it alone when you move the wheel forward?

Originally Posted by RyeRey521 (Post 15580120)
(FYI I’m a 235lbs guy keeping up with A rides on my steel commuter..)


Originally Posted by RyeRey521 (Post 15580172)
But hey, if your riding style/ alignment methods/ or whatever cause your rear hub to slip, they hell, go for the vertical dropout, I'm mearly explaining how they work for me..

I`m 130-ish lbs and have never seen the A group. I think my axle would be fine just held in with a rubber band :lol:

rodar y rodar 05-02-13 07:47 PM


Originally Posted by RyeRey521 (Post 15580304)
When choosing my frame (upgrading from a SS cross bike), The Double cross, Cross Check, and C'mute were all on my list.

Similar here. I`m patiently watching my local Craigslist for any DC, CC, Pacer, ES, Volpe, Casseroll, Aurora, or any other "pseudo cross" or fat friendly road sport in my size while I hoarde parts for the build. If I end up with all the parts before I find a good deal on the frame, I might end up buying a C`mute to hang everything from.

RyeRey521 05-03-13 01:13 PM


Originally Posted by rodar y rodar (Post 15581720)
RR (the other RR), do you just set the B-screw with the wheel all the way back and leave it alone when you move the wheel forward?

I didnt worry about the B-screw alignment when I was figuring out where I wanted the axle placed... Just set it low enough that the jockey wheel didn't hit in the lowest position. With properly set limits and tension I had no issues through the range.

RyeRey521 05-03-13 01:17 PM


Originally Posted by rodar y rodar (Post 15581737)
Similar here. I`m patiently watching my local Craigslist for any DC, CC, Pacer, ES, Volpe, Casseroll, Aurora, or any other "pseudo cross" or fat friendly road sport in my size while I hoarde parts for the build. If I end up with all the parts before I find a good deal on the frame, I might end up buying a C`mute to hang everything from.

I was pleasantly suprised with the fame.. I was able to prodeal the frame and fork for like $140 and wasn't expecting much, but its serving me perfectly right now.... Welds and paint are good enough for me, decals can be removed if you want, and when prepping the frame ( chasing and facing the bottom bracket and facing the headtube) everything was damn good with little material needing to be taken away and everything nice and even.


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