fireflew

Hey all,
I was wondering if I could get some advice on what would be the right sort of bike for me. I'm not sure I want to spend hundreds on a dedicated touring bike since I am unsure if I will want to keep up with the sport, but I also feel like it is at least time for me to get an upgrade from my infamous $100 Walmart bike, if for nothing else then to do some exploring around town, etc. The reason I am asking within the touring fourm is that I am considering going on a touring trip in Europe (Netherlands to France, about 250 miles) this summer with a youth touring bicycle group and I would like to get a bicycle that would also suit those needs. My max budget is about $500.

I was thinking that some sort of hybrid bike might do the job?
Just want to have a rough idea before I start going to my local bike shops.

Thanks in advance for all the help,
Fireflew

paxtonm

Hi,

You didn't indicate your size, but if you fall in the "average" range (I'm not -- 64 cm. frames and very little to find outside of special order) you might have luck used on craigslist or ebay. Your budget is on the low side, but there are certainly very good options available, lightly used. Just know what you want and be patient/persistent.

fireflew

I don't know my size unfortunately, the best I can give is my height, which is five foot eleven.
I don't know how "average" that is for a women's bike

squintal

My favorite choice for a touring bike would be a nice steel frame road bike from the 80's. With updated components this would make an excellent entry level mulit-pupose bike.

Unfortunately bikes like this are very difficult to come by, and usually require you replace components yourself, which is not the best option for a beginner.

Thus, I would recommend the following: Go to you local bike shop (LBS) and ride at least three bikes in your price range. If they have any steel frame bikes try one of those. Also try a dedicated road bike, and see if they have a flat-bar road bike (one without the curvy drop bars). If they don't have one in your size and price range, try a more expensive bike just to get a feel for what style you want.

Once you know what kind of bike you're most comfortable on, and what size you need, then you will have more options. There is the used rout on craigslist or ebay - but don't buy anything without riding it.

I would lean towards buying from your local shop - they will be able to fit you properly, help you get the bike set up well, and they should give you free tuneups for at least a year.

If you are very lucky, your shop may have a small selection of used bikes - might be worth asking.

Good luck and happy riding!

Joshua1234

May I ask what state (if in the US) or country you live in? I have had some recent dealings with trying to find a used bike. I did end up selling some stuff to purchase a new bike I was lusting for. I am impulsive though. I did learn some about the used bike deal.

I think one good thing I have learned from the buying a bike thing was, it is kinda "to be". There were several bikes I was looking at but it ended up not panning out because of the available funds at the time. These bikes would have turned out to be just fine but I would not be as happy with it. I waited long enough to decide that selling a piece of camera equipment that I loved but was not using was worth it. Perhaps a sacrifice is needed to make it work.

Robert_in_ca

Search your local craigslist for these bikes and keywords, you might get lucky. If you see one you are interested in, post the link up here for us to give opinions on it.


Trek 520, and other steel trek bikes
randonee, safari
cannondale t1000 t2000 t800 badboy
bridgestone
long haul trucker...doubt there will be any in your price though


For a road bike your sizing is probably a 56. For a mountain bike, size 18 or 19. If you have short legs for your height you might go down a size

Randochap

Fireflew, you might find some answers to your questions on the "touring" pages at VeloWeb (linked below).

You will be able to get an entry level hybrid for $500, but that's a bit low for a touring bike. Try the used market.

Ronsonic 

A touring bike will do fine for just about any other kind of riding except for serious road racing or rough off road stuff. It will handle anything the hybrid can and still be smoother and faster on the pavement.

You'll be shopping used for that price. Shouldn't be that difficult to find something good. There usually isn't any difference between serious bikes for men and women, at least not at your size. Some are designed a bit differently for women but the difference is subtle.

fireflew

To Joshua1234: I live in California
To all of you: thanks for all your help, I may just end up renting a bike from the orginazation i'm looking at going with and getting a hybrid for here at home, but i'm gonna take look around creig's list and let you all know if I find anything interesting.

Thanks a ton!!!

fireflew

Thanks for all the help Robert. I craigs listed the terms you recommended but there didn't seem to be much to choose from.

I pulled these out, but I doubt they're anything exciting and the sizes aren't perfect.

https://sacramento.craigslist.org/bik/950586223.html
https://sacramento.craigslist.org/bik/945369246.html
https://sacramento.craigslist.org/bik/947624095.html

Anything in the Sacramento-ish area is do able for me. -shrugs- As I said though, I may just settle for something modest from the lbs.

...I wish this wasn't so hard lol.

-wishes perfect bike to just poof out of thin air-

LeeG

fireflew, there isn't a perfect bicycle as much as there's an optimum position on a bike and a familiarity with how to set that up on any bike you get. It's not precise but there's a ball park range for handlebar height, seat to handlebar length, seat height/angle, handlebar type that will work for you.

The idea of renting a bike from the organization is a good one just to eliminate the cost and worry of transport. Will they offer rental of panniers as well?

the market is kind of funny, mtb and hybrids fit the under $500 price range when there's no reason a touring bike couldn't be there as well. 30yrs ago "10 speeds" for touring covered the price range.

I'd suggest looking at this generic mtn/commuter bike, unless you develop a preference for skinny tires you can start with simply ensuring there's adequate air in the tires with the option of putting on narrower 26"x1.5" ones for long distance road riding. The geometry of this bike would suit touring and I assume the wheels are 26" which will pretty much ensure they will be very strong to handle general bike abuse. Unlike a 10-20yr old touring bike with possibly sketchy 700c wheels and tires you're getting a brand new bike with bombproof wheels. This bike may be a tad heavy but if an intended use is touring you really want strong wheels. Getting a used bike with 700c tires you really need to know what you're looking for as an out of whack rear wheel wouldn't be out of the ordinary,,and if it's a little out of whack it's going to be a LOT out of whack with 30lbs on the back. Also 700x28-32mm tires will be less tolerant of underpressure before you get a pinch flat whereas a 26"x1.5-1.75 tire can handle a lot of weight when loaded and still ride ok if underpressure unloaded.


https://www.rei.com/product/760872

it appears to come in 17" and 19" sizes, if your inseam is longer than 31" then you'll probably be more comfortable with the 19" REI might be able to swap out different stems at a price for a good fit.


The reason I'd look at this instead of the "hybrids" is that the hybrids tend to have high handlebar positions which in the long run are inefficient but also the more upright positions compound the problem of overweighting the back wheel when touring,,which makes the front wheel light and skittish at higher speeds going down hills. Also the low end hybrids often have low cost front shocks which complicate any rack attachments.

If you're new to cycling the biggest challenge is figuring a comfortable seat angle and how to develop a comfortable posture and variety of hand grip positions (cut the bars a couple inches narrower and get long bar ends and wrap them) so your hands don't get numb. One of the common problems folks start with in accomodating to an efficient position (leaning forward with weight on handlebars) is having straight arms and bowed back as a way to reduce pressure on the seat and hands. Unfortunately it takes all the shock absorption out of your arms and makes your hands suffer. So you need to figure out a comfortable seat and seat angle (experiment, have the shop show you how to adjust it) so your back can be comfortably flat, pelvis rotated down slightly (this is why the seat angle becomes important) with your forearms BENT with hands on grips. If your hands are STUCK in one position too long you will get numb and uncomfortable hands so that's what the bar ends are for.


regarding the used bike market, you should know what you're getting, if it needs new tires, updated wheels, new seat, you're going to be spending another $100-200 right off the bat IF you rely on the bike shop for retail goods and their labor of installation. That's the big caveat in going soley by price "I got a used bike for $50 and it worked great!",,which may leave out the knowledge that person had in getting a used bike that didn't need a new headset, they had the tools to replace the pedals, re-true wheels, replace tires, etc. etc. as well as the knowledge to know what parts to get for the least price.

The Trek looks like it would be the best deal size wise, the Bridgestone Hybrid could be a great deal if it's an ok size and the headset isn't pitted. The Bridgestone road bike is a very nice bike but it's overpriced and better be perfect.

Nigeyy

Is the $500 for a bike and touring equipment? Or do you have racks, panniers, etc?

For $500 you might be able to pick up a "proper" used touring bike off craigslist (e.g. Cannondale tourer, Trek 520) but it will probably be close to that amount unless you get really lucky. The other thing you will most likely need is time and patience and a well used craigslist board in your area. Eventually the right bike will come up. Try to find someone who knows about bikes to go with you as well to spot any issues -as the previous poster mentioned, new tyres, saddle, chain, cables, etc, all add up very, very quickly.

Assuming you need change out of that $500, I'd recommend a quality used hybrid (bikes from the 1990's are good for this) with names such as Trek, Specialized, Cannondale, Raleigh, Giant,etc.. You could also use an older mountain bike, and just fit touring tyres or slicks to it, and add some bar ends or a trekking bar if necessary (neither require advanced mechanical skills). I have a very early 1990's Specialized Hard Rock steel frame I bought from a junkyard for $4 that I toured on with great success and comfort. To get it where it is now, it did cost about $500 in total (though I put all the parts on myself). Additionally, older road bikes are nice as well, though be careful of less strong wheels, toe overlap and short chainstays (this is where the rear wheel is closer to the crankset -meaning when you pedal with panniers on, your heel might hit the panniers). Older road bikes usually mean shifter controls that are less conveniently placed as well -something to think about rather than their hybrid and mountain bike counterparts.

Another alternative to a used bike if you are in a hurry -and you have to be careful with a used bike that the drive chain/frame/components are in good condition (which usually is the case since bikes are most often underused and forgotten in a garage and a good drivechain will last 3000+ miles, but again, try to find someone who is knowledgeable about bikes to help you out here) is www.bikesdirect.com and the Windsor Tourist. Though it is $100 more than your budget and if you are not mechanically inclined will require some assembly.

Personally, I'd recommend the used bike route with Craigslist, with patience and willingness to check early and often being the key components to getting that bargain, as well as finding a good friend who knows bikes. At least for craigslist in my area, if you do find a bike that seems to be right for you and is a bargain, try to get to it asap -other people are always on the lookout for bargains and it will be gone very quickly if it really is a bargain and you're not fast enough.

Good luck!

Edit: forgot to add, make sure the bike you are looking at has rack eyelets for attaching a rack! Some bikes don't. You can get around this, just easier if rack eyelets are there already.

BigBlueToe

I've done a lot of watching for touring bikes on Ebay and Craigslist. You may be able to find a touring bike for $500, or you may need to go a little higher. There won't be any money left for panniers, racks, replacement parts, etc. If you're patient, you may find something.

Another option is to look for a rigid mountain bike from the 80's or early 90's. I bought my son a Specialized Rockhopper on Ebay. It needed new brakes, pedals, and I put on a rack and some barends. The total price was a little over $300 and it's a sweet ride now. He could take it touring tomorrow, though I'd recommend a front rack as well. Personally, I prefer drop handlebars, but I"ve seen plenty of people touring on mountain bikes with flat bars. Since you are considering a hybrid, I'm guessing drop bars aren't a deal-breaker.

Camel

Renting would seem to be the best option. You would not have logistical worries for your trip (how to get the bike there & back, racks/bags etc). The bike would be the same as everyone elses, you would have no advantage nor dis-advantage.

If you decide you really enjoy touring, you could then equipe a bike you may have (or may soon buy) for touring in the future.

rhm

Craigslist is definitely the best option. If you could get something like this, you'd be golden.

tacomee

I vote for going down to REI and buy a new Buzz V for $450--- take the darn thing back if you're not 100% happy with it. You will like it however. It's a cool bike.

Used bikes are often a con job. Some thief or swindler will end up taking your money unless you know a heck of a lot about bikes. Bikes cost a lot of money to fix up....most of the time it's cheaper to just go get a new bike!

fireflew

Hey everyone,
I went to my local bike store and ended up falling in love with a trek fx 7.3. Over budget a bit, but I really love it.

I've had a bit of wrist pain though, and i'm not sure what to make of that...I suppose if it keeps up i'll have to take it back to the store...does anyone have any suggestions about that?

tacomee

Good job fireflew!

The Trek FX bikes are nice-- you'll love it. And the bike I started touring with wasn't near as good as your new one. Have fun.

xilios

Hi, the 7.3 FX is a nice bike to tour on, my wife's got the 7.2 WSD and has done some fairly long tours around Europe in the past couple years. As far as wrist pain goes try raising the bar a bit and using bar ends on your handle bars, check out our site (below) for more details. This page has also a lot of info. https://sheldonbrown.com/pain.html
Good luck with your new bike.

LeeG

ok, sounds like your budget is flexible. Nice bike, absolutely need bar ends or different bars so what your hands are resting/gripping on a fore/aft orientation most of the time and not perpendicular like the existing bars. Being on the tops of bars or straight bars is nice for awhile but not 100% of the time. Your wrist pain doesn't have much to do with the bike. If you have wrist pain with this bike you'll have wrist pain with another bike. Don't switch bikes around expecting wrist pain to be lessened. The problem is with your wrist, posture and positioning,,not the bike.

fireflew

Thats a HUGE relief to hear. I thought I may have made a mistake in my choice or something. If it's something I just need to improve, I'm more then happy to hear any suggestions.

This makes me love my bike even more (im obsessed )

oldride

With flat bars your hands only have one position and you can get tired and sore hands and wrists. Adding bar ends gives more hand positions so you can move your hand position as needed. I would talk to the bike shop about fine tuning your hand position and overall fit/position. Sometimes a little tweaking here and there makes a big difference in comfort.

fireflew

It's odd though because I got the wrist pain in less then 2 miles...and it's still hurting 4 hours later. Maybe I went over a bump wrong or something.

Neil_B

It's a great choice for a 'non-touring' touring bike. John Schubert in Adventure Cyclist magazine described the 7.3 as an excellent choice for a budget tourer.

I have a 7.5 - not as good for touring thanks to the low spoke count wheels and the carbon fork. Here it is on my last tour, two months ago.

LeeG

sounds like a pre-existing condition or you're gripping tightly, can't imagine it getting better with cycling.
Do you have bar ends?