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Originally Posted by browngw
(Post 22029577)
Automatic Transmission fluid (ATF) is a good sub for chain lube. It cleans well and leaves a very thin film with excellent lubrication qualities.
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kerosene or paraffin oil or diesel fuel or jet fuel or stoddard solvent or mineral spirits or paint thinner for oil paint will all work the same as a thinner for your purposes. 1st oil choice: Gear oil or 2-cycle oil or non-detergent motor oil have more oil in them than detergent motor oil (regular motor oil). 2nd choice: Regular motor oil, ATF, hydraulic oil. Anything you mix up with any of these thinners + oil will work fine for a bike. Drip on, 50 turns of the crank, wipe off the chain. The best SR-71 NASA super juice isn't enough better to matter.
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I'm soo boring, been using Tri Flow for decades. If it's good enough for Chris Horner, good enough for me.
On the other hand, I just might try some ATF for giggles. Thanks. |
Originally Posted by robow
(Post 22029732)
I'm soo boring, been using Tri Flow for decades. If it's good enough for Chris Horner, good enough for me.
On the other hand, I just might try some ATF for giggles. Thanks. |
Twelve-year-old thread.
Nothing much has changed on this topic since OP in 2009. My thoughts on this subject. There was a resurgence of chain waxing a few years back, custom wax mixed with PTFE, etc, some claims of reduced friction based on actual measurement. IIRC some of the these evaluations failed to consider the very real effect of significant contamination of the wax coating by road debris thrown up constantly from the front tire onto the chain as it rounds the chainring. This slowly turns the wax lube into an erosive grinding paste, more than would occur with oil chain lubes, since wax has adhesive properties, and obviously also increases bicycle drivetrain friction losses - which are probably insignificant compared to tires, pannier drag, full touring loads and wind. I still mix DIY lube 1 part oil to 4 parts solvent, by volume, in a dispensable bottle. |
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