Chains?
 

I’m rebuilding my MTB touring bike and replacing the 9-speed drive train. Which chains would be best for touring and how often would you change chains. I am leaning towards the cheep Sram Pc – 951 and changing it out more frequently to extend the life of the drive train.

Any good advice or experience for me?

Thanks,
Gordon p

Keep it lubricated. Get a measuring tool and check the stretch when you lubricate. Replace as needed.

Speedo

SRAMs are pretty good, even the "cheap" ones. I really like there quick link-I carry a few spares. The quick link lets you completely remove the chain without a chain tool, and give the chain a really good cleaning. I've them on all my geared bikes.

On my year tour I swapped out the chain and cassette twice. I swapped out the front rings, but did that only because I had to get a new crankset (bottom bracket failure, and no compatible replacement available where I was). My front rings would have been fine for the entire trip otherwise, perhaps my small ring would have needed replacement.

I've used the 951, the 971 and the 991. If I divide the cost by the number of miles I usually get out of a chain, I find that the 991 is worth the extra cost (but not by much).

I usually get about 4000 miles out of a chain, sometimes less. If I was taking a long tour, I'd probably start with a new chain and plan to swap it out after 2000 or 3000 miles just to be extra safe. When I'm home, I use a chain measuring tool and swap out the chain as soon as it has 0.75% elongation. But I'm not going to carry that tool on a tour, even though it is pretty light.

Chain wear varies signicantly by person, depending on how you pedal and how often you lube and clean.

i dont think chain "stretch" or wear has anything to do with frequency of lubrication. i think its mostly related to amount of torque generated. lubing a chain staves off rust and weathering, and behooves shifting, but i dont think it does much to prevent wear.

Clean and properly lubed chains live longer as do chains that don't get continuously run in a cross chained position... after that most of the decent chains are about equal to one another with SRAM being my fave.

SRAM 971 here. 25 bux is minor in the grand scheme of things.

-R

I'll disagree with you. My understanding is that lubricating a chain prevents "stretch" or wear in several ways. The term "stretch" is actually a misnomer, it's the roller bearings wearing out over time, which usually causes the chain to lengthen overall. Once "stretched" a chain will no longer mesh properly with cog teeth, causing premature gearing wear.

Lubrication can help remove grit & sand etc out of the rollers, decreasing wear.

Yeah, my understanding is that chains don't really "stretch", but wear out. Who knows what lubrication does to help prevent this-- It can't hurt, right? Unless the chain lube attacts dirt and grinds the chain down?

I really have no idea about any of this stuff!

Here's what I do know. Buy cheap Sram chains, keep them cleaned and oiled the best you can, change them out every 3000 miles or so. Don't think about this stuff. It will only drive you crazy.

Proper lubrication, of anything, prevents metal to metal contact, ruducing wear.

The purpose of that oil between two steel parts, is to act a s a cushion between them.

Only, when the oil get squeexed out, does wear occur.

Solvents that flush out the previous lubrication can remove grit and sand. Lubrication applied to a chain that already has grit on it will only get the grit further into the system and result in a chain that wears out faster. The grit that you have to worry about on the a chain is, for the most part, silica (quartz) in origin. Quartz is very hard...harder than the steel in the chain...and acts as a lapping compound. It grinds the chain down faster.

I really like the SRAM chains. On my last tour I took a PC-991, which worked flawlessly. One thing that nobody seems to have mentioned here is the PowerLink on the SRAM - you don't need a tool in order to remove the chain for repair or cleaning - which means a little weight saving. For chain maintenance, I really like the FinishLine chain cleaner (which you use on the bike - no need to remove the chain at all with this). Using this regularly with a citrus cleaner will ensure a nice long chain life. I've taken my bikes to the bike shop with chains that have been maintained regularly with a FinishLine, and the owner was surprised to see how little stretch wear there was on the chain given how many miles it had on it. I think regular cleaning helps to keep down the wear and tear, presumably by flushing out all the little bits and pieces that cause the wear between the bits of metal. The only downside is that you also need to carry the liquid, and rags to dry the chain off afterwards, but I see it as being one of those things that is essential to maintenance of the bike, along with lube. One important thing with oil is to not use too much - if the chain is too wet, then it'll pick up more dirt, which is obviously bad. Remember to lube after heavy rain, as that will tend to wash out the oil. Also, the Park Chain Brush is a good little tool to have along with you - very lightweight, and helps with getting the big bits off around the derailleurs and chainrings (remember to also clean the chainrings - no point cleaning the chain and then putting it back on a filthy, caked chainring).

Neil

Thanks for all of your advice. I guess the only difference between the Sram models if they are plated, partly plated or without plating. While touring plaiting may not be that important as most people who are traveling will be cleaning and lubricating their chain as part of their maintenance schedule. I am also wondering if rotating chains every 3000 kilometres would help prolong the drive chain.

Gordon p

I think one benefit of the more expensive versions of the SRAM (e.g. PC-991) is that the nickel plating on both the inside and outside plates will help to prevent rust. I would just avoid the hollowpin version of these chains, it seems like the solid pins will probably be stronger and last longer.

I would question some of the standard advice.

Regarding cleaning... I have had the best luck with using a lube that doesn't attract dirt and seldom "cleaning" a chain. Rinsing with any pressure at all or with solvents just helps the grit get deeper into the chain where it can do damage. I have had very good luck just applying lube (I like Boesheild T9) and wiping the chain off. Rarely if the chain is really muddy or something I might rinse it off with a hose with no nozzle and only the pressure of the water coming out of the hose (no using a nozzle or thumb to spray).

Regarding chain life... I expect to get 10,000 miles out of a chain and buy decent brands, but not premium models of chain. I am currently using an SMC that has 5000 miles and shows almost no measurable wear. I check it fairly often by measuring 12 links. If they get to 12-1/16" I think about replacing them pretty soon. I NEVER let them get to 12-1/8".

BTW the SRAM removable links are nice and work with other chains too.

I think Sheldon Brown posted here once that the only difference between the various levels of Sram chains is plating and that the cheapest chain is just as good as the most expensive.

I agree that you should use a lubricant that is dry...and use very little of that;) I gave up oil based lubricants ages ago and I seldom clean my chain. Even with a dry wax lube, I can go for weeks without adding more. If you do use an oil based lubricant...and too much...solvents without pressure, i.e. just soaking the chain, can remove the grit on the surface without getting it down into the moving bits because the grit won't stick to the metal without the oil there.

But it is best to avoid the whole cleaning issue if you can:D

So I took the bus to the LBS I like in Ottawa and they only had the KMC X9 in stock. So KMC it is! I will try rotating my chains to see how that works out.
Thanks
Gordon p

Hey Gordon,

Give a look at the SRAM quick links, and see if your LBS can order you up 2 pairs. They should be able to.

Install one onto your KMC, and carry the other in your parts bin/bag.

I've never run them on different chains other than SRAM, but I can't see why they wouldn't work just as well on any chain. (Maybe someone else could correct me if I'm totally off base here...)

Edit: adding, the quick links would really help u rotate chains easier too.

I was just looking at the "missing Link' that comes with the KMC chain and it is re-usable. I will see if I can find a couple of spairs.
Thanks,
Gordon

Hey Gordon,

Carry a mini chain breaker if you can. I usually carry a mini one from a bike multi-tool kit, but I leave out any of the tools which I don't need. The chain breaker was usefull for me because I'd buy a new chain, then install it a few weeks later. Didn't have to hunt down a bike shop just to use there chain tool. You could also just shorten the chain when you buy it though, and install later.

Chain tool also came in handy to remove a "bad" chain link, and swap it out for another quick link. I probably jammed the chain or something in that instance, but don't recall the specifics. Back riding within 10minutes.

BAck up procedure to not having a chain tool is a rock (or borrowed hammer) and a nail the size of the chain pin. Can be a super hassle depending on the circumstances (stuck out in freezing rain etc).

There are a bunch of threads in the bike mechanics section regarding the KMC missing link. Seems some folks have a lot of difficulty with them.

-Mind that the SRAM quick link (power link) can be tricky to use as well, but once you've swapped it out a few times it's pretty easy to figure out. Perhaps a similar learning curve with the KMC?