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Mouting a rear rack with direct pull V brakes?

Old 03-21-09, 04:53 PM
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Mouting a rear rack with direct pull V brakes?

I know this has probably been asked before but I did a search and it is amazing the number of unrelated hits you get.

I have a Trek FX with direct pull cantilever V brakes. I have a Novara rack that I really like. The problem is the boss on the seat stay is directly in line with the each side of the brakes. I was able to solve the problem on the left side with a few washers, it gets the support strut to the rack out of the way of the lever.

Not so easy on the right side. No matter how I placed the strut it seems to get in the way of the brake cable or cantilever.

I think I can solve the problem with a P-Clamp, mounting the rack strut on the inside of the seat strut and up a bit higher than the boss.

But I am looking for other ideas (aside from buying a new rack). One idea I thought of was to make my own rack strut and bend to fit. Can rod be purchased with a flattened end and hole?
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Old 03-21-09, 05:12 PM
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ah.... sure.
 
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Pictures would help us maybe help you? Can you take a few and post them?
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Old 03-21-09, 06:15 PM
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Here ya go. Hopefully you can see how the one lever interferes with the rack strut if I were to place it on the boss.
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Old 03-21-09, 06:17 PM
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Yikes! I need to clean that bike!
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Old 03-21-09, 07:56 PM
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That looks fixble to me. If the rack stays are long enough, the easiest way would probably be to put one more bend in the originals. It`s much easier to get a nice bend without kinking the tubing with a good bender- maybe see if an air conditioning repairman would do it for you in exchange for a six pack of beer?
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Old 03-21-09, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by rodar y rodar
That looks fixble to me. If the rack stays are long enough, the easiest way would probably be to put one more bend in the originals. It`s much easier to get a nice bend without kinking the tubing with a good bender- maybe see if an air conditioning repairman would do it for you in exchange for a six pack of beer?
The I would not have enough strut with a bend. It is already maxed out length wise. Plus I use the rack on my road / touring bike.

That is why I asked if a rod can be purchased with a flat end and drilled hole. Hardware store maybe?
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Old 03-21-09, 08:11 PM
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I don`t know if you can buy it already flattened, but flattening it is the easy part anyway. Bending tubing without kinking it can be tough unless you have a good bender. If the tubing doesn`t cost too much to do a little experimenting, you may well be able to to it with a cheapo bender. An easier option would probably be solid aluminum rod- no problem bending that. If you can`t fine anything you need locally, try Grainger, MSC, or onlinemetals.com If you end up going with solid rod, just file flats on the end.
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Old 03-21-09, 08:18 PM
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The exiting one is a solid rod so I would probably go with a solid rod on the new one. It would be easier to bend properly, just would take a little more muscle.
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Old 03-21-09, 08:52 PM
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Scroll down to where it shows the aluminum upper rack mounting and that should solve your problem.

https://www.thetouringstore.com/TUBUS...ONS%20PAGE.htm

They bend very easy even without a tubing bender:
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Old 03-21-09, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by aroundoz
Scroll down to where it shows the aluminum upper rack mounting and that should solve your problem.

https://www.thetouringstore.com/TUBUS...ONS%20PAGE.htm

They bend very easy even without a tubing bender:
Thanks


These might work. Looks like my right uses the same mounting system as the Tubus.

Are these rods solid?

But it still might be cheaper to buy some rod stock. If aluminum then it should bend and file easy enough.
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Old 03-22-09, 05:21 AM
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Spin, if you don't want to go to that expense, go up to Lowes or Home Depot and look in the hardware section for a small piece of flat aluminum stock often used in frame support and cut a 2 " piece if you're forced to buy an "L". It should already be tapped for two holes then just bolt the end of your support rod directlly down in a dog leg fashion to your stay. It's main function is to keep the rack in the same position and doesn't support that much weight but even so, it would hold easily. I should say the touring fashion police might dock you a few points for this one though : )
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Old 03-22-09, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by robow
Spin, if you don't want to go to that expense, go up to Lowes or Home Depot and look in the hardware section for a small piece of flat aluminum stock often used in frame support and cut a 2 " piece if you're forced to buy an "L". It should already be tapped for two holes then just bolt the end of your support rod directlly down in a dog leg fashion to your stay. It's main function is to keep the rack in the same position and doesn't support that much weight but even so, it would hold easily. I should say the touring fashion police might dock you a few points for this one though : )
I thought about that but wouldn't the joint between the L-bracket flex? I have one one hole in the strut.

Unless I taped it or wired it somehow.
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Old 03-22-09, 06:57 AM
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Old 03-22-09, 07:22 AM
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TH,

Looks like your rack might sit up higher than mine.

If you look a my pic, you can see that the seat strut boss is almost a vertical line to the attachment point of the rack strut.


I can adjust mine and that is a thought too but I would like to avoid moving the rack higher just to mount the strut.
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Old 03-22-09, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by aroundoz
Scroll down to where it shows the aluminum upper rack mounting and that should solve your problem.
Hey, that looks perfect. And not that expensive- may as well go or it and it`ll look much cleaner and nicer than any rigged up workaround. Not that I have objections to workarounds : )
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Old 03-22-09, 08:48 AM
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Spinnaker,
If you haven't fixed this, bring it over the house and I'll do somethig for you. How about a u-shaped bracket from one boss to the other and connecting to the rack on the way?

Kevin
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Old 03-22-09, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by spinnaker
I thought about that but wouldn't the joint between the L-bracket flex? I have one one hole in the strut.

Unless I taped it or wired it somehow.
You only need one bolt and locknut and the right bridge won't flex much if any.
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Old 03-23-09, 03:21 AM
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Another option: https://bicycletrip.com/itemdetails.cfm?LibId=54359
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Old 03-23-09, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by cobba

Thanks but if I go that route, I would probably just go with a simple p-clamp. If the boss was on the inside of the strut rather that the outside, it would probably work.
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Old 03-29-09, 07:43 PM
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I took a hint from Historians high mounting angle and made a few adjustments. I was able to raise the platform a bit. I then flipped the rack strut mounting hardware.



It works perfect and I should be able to avoid any serious tickets from the fashion police.
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Old 03-29-09, 08:32 PM
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Glad to see you made it work. My wife wants a set of those fenders. We saw them the other night at REI.
Do they stay put? work alright?
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Old 03-30-09, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by nivekdodge
Glad to see you made it work. My wife wants a set of those fenders. We saw them the other night at REI.
Do they stay put? work alright?

You were able to see the type of fender from that little pic???


I got them at Nashbar. They are Planet Bike fenders and work very well once you have things tightened down.
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Old 03-30-09, 07:43 PM
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Old 03-30-09, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by spinnaker

It works perfect and I should be able to avoid any serious tickets from the fashion police.

Oh we'll be the judge of that, and rest assured if those struts aren't cro-mo or Surly approved, we may be docking you numerous style points. The only good thing from your perspective is that the style police can easily be bought off with ice cream
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