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fietsbob thanks but I don't have brake bosses so thats not an option for me.
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Originally Posted by Josef Taylor
(Post 19859408)
Hi BigFinner, actually the old non-aero drop bar levers were converted to inline. The standard road cable end is an axial barrel, just the same size as a housing ferrule. You can run housing into the lever from below as well as from above. the canti brake levers were the end of the run.
1. How was the braking power with both sets? Did you notice any reduction in performance with either lever? 2 What kind of curve did you have in the cable between the road and mtn brake as I suspect you would have an S in the brake housing right? Unless you mounted the road brakes to the front outside of the butterfly bars instead of the front inside? Thanks, I'm so pumped to get this dialed in! |
Originally Posted by BigFinner
(Post 19859575)
Dude this rock's. So simple and so perfect as I am creating the same set up you had. Wooooooo it's exactly what I want. Just 2 questions.
1. How was the braking power with both sets? Did you notice any reduction in performance with either lever? 2 What kind of curve did you have in the cable between the road and mtn brake as I suspect you would have an S in the brake housing right? Unless you mounted the road brakes to the front outside of the butterfly bars instead of the front inside? Thanks, I'm so pumped to get this dialed in! 2. No S shapes. Housing went from the canti levers to the tops of the non-aero road levers, and then from the bottoms of the road levers to the brakes. The road levers were mounted as for moustache bars, on the front of the whole thing. |
Originally Posted by Josef Taylor
(Post 19859596)
1. I don't think there was much sacrifice in power. It felt pretty good.
2. No S shapes. Housing went from the canti levers to the tops of the non-aero road levers, and then from the bottoms of the road levers to the brakes. The road levers were mounted as for moustache bars, on the front of the whole thing. https://i.imgur.com/QuU3jAk.jpg |
Originally Posted by BigFinner
(Post 19859659)
Sorry I just can't seem to wrap my head around how there would be no S in the housing. I have added a drawing with my lame artist skills to show what I am thinking.
My own poor drawing: https://photos.app.goo.gl/uL8u9omJtm2ptL3r2 |
Unless this was your set up? I guess there are actually quite a few options you could have done?
https://i.imgur.com/aKktQIG.jpg |
Originally Posted by Josef Taylor
(Post 19859677)
That will absolutely work, I just wired the road lever opposite to that.
My own poor drawing: https://photos.app.goo.gl/uL8u9omJtm2ptL3r2 I'm off to the races! |
Originally Posted by BigFinner
(Post 19859698)
Ohhhhhhhhhh! I'm a complete Dum-Dum! I totally get what you did now! I can do that no problem and it's the best way to create that set up for sure!!!!!
I'm off to the races! |
Josef this is what I haul when touring! No amount of Aero is going to do jack **** for me! HA.
Think you can see why I want quick access to brake lever options. https://i.imgur.com/XhF9Rkp.jpg |
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Here's my drops. Now bend the drop portion horizontally inward to resemble a trekking bar and you see it is essentially what you are looking for. The way the cable comes out from the hoods you can orient the levers either way.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4346/...0c779c70_z.jpg20161119_141912 (2) by dc460, on Flickr |
interruptor work with the cable running uninterrupted, the housing is spread..
but a brake lever made to be at the end of the cable lets the pull always be straight. not flexing the stiffer part where the end of the cable is soldered/molded on.. which can promote metal fatigue.. the flexing that end is not good, that is why brake lever designers let the pull remain straight.. A work around could be use a 3~4cm long piece of housing on the cable head end, butting into the lever seat, so the rest of the cable which has not been soldered stiff , is flexed.. where it remains flexible.. .... |
Originally Posted by fietsbob
(Post 19861745)
interruptor work with the cable running uninterrupted, the housing is spread..
but a brake lever made to be at the end of the cable lets the pull always be straight. not flexing the stiffer part where the end of the cable is soldered/molded on.. which can promote metal fatigue.. the flexing that end is not good, that is why brake lever designers let the pull remain straight.. A work around could be use a 3~4cm long piece of housing on the cable head end, butting into the lever seat, so the rest of the cable which has not been soldered stiff , is flexed.. where it remains flexible.. .... If I understand properly; what you are getting at is that if I run the brake cable the opposite direction straight through the road brake lever on to the mtn brake lever I could run into cable fatigue or stress issues in the location where the cable runs straight through the inside the lever housing ferrule at the road brake when the cable is going the reverse direction through it?
Originally Posted by fietsbob
(Post 19861745)
A work around could be use a 3~4cm long piece of housing on the cable head end, butting into the lever seat, so the rest of the cable which has not been soldered stiff , is flexed.. where it remains flexible..
Is the "lever seat" the inner portion of the road brake lever where the cable would typically end? If so wouldn't a 3~4cm piece of housing just flop around inside the lever and not stay seated in place as the housing would essentially be just sitting on top of the lever seat? |
look at a brake cable new the way it is when you buy it, describe what the very end with the fitting to go in the brake lever feels like,
compare that with what it feels like, a foot away from that end.. |
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