Handlebar question on Touring Bike
 

On a road bike I thought I remember reading that when one is fitted properly to the bike, and when mounted on the bike looking down at the front wheel, more often than not the handlebars will block the front axle of the bike. My Bianchi road bike was set up this way, so that when looking down at the front wheel, the handlebars intersected exactly at the front axle. In other words, if the handlebar was above or past the front axle, one was probably too stretched out, and if the handlebar was below, one was probably too cramped.

Should my touring bike be set up in a similar fashion? Or due to the more upright position of a touring bike should the front axle appear above the handlebar?

As my bike came stock, the handlebar was way below the front axle, and I felt cramped when riding. I replaced the stock 100mm stem with a 110mm, and the front axle still appears above the handlebar, and I wonder if I should try 120mm next.

I think that relationship on a touring bike is meaningless. Touring bikes are typically ridden in a more upright position, but it's completely up to you and your style of touring.

If covering long miles in a short time is your priority, then a more aerodynamic riding position will help.

If site seeing and relaxed pace have priority, then a more upright position will probably suit you better.

Touring = No Rules

IMHO - a very humble opinoin - no, general rules like this are outmoded, no good, and certainly no use in touring bikes. Check out the links below for new starting place in fit.

Grant P and his ideas about fit set some people off shrieking. When I first read this stuff ten years ago, I thought it was crazy, dorky, wrong. Then I bought a Rivendell bike, began fitting my stuff with the notions of comfort = happier biking = happier touring and better performance... and I've never looked back, but have enjoyed thousands of thousands of greate cycling miles.

http://www.rivbike.com/article/bike_...izing_position

http://www.rivbike.com/article/bike_fit/setup_mistakes

http://www.rivbike.com/article/bike_...g_a_frame_size

Also, google around to find Keith Bontrager's rant on saddle fore/aft and height.

Good luck to you.

Where exactly are you putting your hands when you are looking down at your front hub? There is a big difference between that 'eclipse' you're looking for when you look from hands in the drops verse hands up on the flats or hoods. I recall reading racers look for the blocked sight line from the drops, while tourers set-up for it with hands on top of the hoods. At least this one website confirms it...http://sonicchicken.net/blog/wordpre.../bike-fitting/

This measurement has been generally debunked as useless. Even with our hands in the correct position, we can move our arms and head slightly and get all sorts of "readings."
The website you source is merely a guy's blog after he read a book.

Right. The book is the source, but I can't exactly link you to the text in the book now can I? Of course I understand your point and I agree with it to some extent. So many people come up with some unsupported tips and tricks that may apply to some but not all. This one has *some* relevance as it does seek to balance a rider on the frame fore/aft. To much in either direction could result in all sorts of problems such as shimmies, discomfort, etc.

I agree with others that this rule of thumb is practically worthless. It's too simple to be useful.

Thanks for all the feedback. I meant viewing from the hoods. Good to know this rule doesn't apply.

I just got on my road bike the other day (getting ready to sell it) and couldn't believe how low I rode for a few years. I like the relaxed, upright position of the touring bike much better. Think I'll stay with the 110 mm stem for now as I went on a 112 mile ride last Friday and it seemed to fit me very well, so although I bought a 120mm stem the same time I bought a 110mm (only cost me $3 extra) I don't see a need to try the 120mm right now.