Handlebar Conversion
 

Hey everyone,

I am seriously interested in doing a drop handlebar conversion on my touring bike. I ride a Giant FCR3 with straight bars and extenders wiht liner pull brakes at the moment. I will most likely be changing the tekro VBrakes to roadbrakes. I am more interested in what type of conversion for shifting and brake levers I am going to need to do.

I am currently geared at SRAM SX-4 3x8 Spd.
30-42-52 X 11-28

Keep in mind this bike will be used for touring, not racing. I would assume the parts would have to be the following.
Handlebars, (Stem?), Shifting Levers, Brake Levers (possible brifters), what else?

This is my current setup. http://velospace.org/files/FCR3-HBsetup.jpg

I used a Tektro RL520 (http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...ke+Levers.aspx) brake levers on my Hybrid conversion and I utilized an existing friction downtube shifters from my parts bin. I then adapted it to a Rivendell barend shifter pods (http://www.rivbike.com/products/show...-mounts/17-068).

You can convert to Canti brakes too ( much preffered for touring), if you want to use a brifter made for caliper brakes.
' not sure what kind/brand of brifters would work with linear pull brakes. I'm sure they exist and I'm interested to know myself.
Keep us posted and good luck.

I will be replacing to proper caliper brakes as well. So I would like to obtain brifters that would work with current gearing I think is what I am trying to ask.

Basically I can't tell whether or not like a Sora 8 Flight Deck, just an I.E., or something comparable would work?

I think I found exactly what I am looking for. This should work fine (Functionally) correct? Would take care of brakes and shifting and all I would need are the bars and the brake calipers.
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...ake+Lever.aspx

One last update. It looks to me like nobody has those Shimano shifters and the Sora's will not really work with my gearing. However, this bar end shifters should do the trick and apparently extremely easy to adjust and tune.
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...+Shifters.aspx

Considering that the Rivendell Pods alone costs $34 and you still need the actual shifters, I think those Barcons are the better choice.

So, just to recap...Tektro RL520 levers + Dropbar+ bar tape + Barcons and you're set. Good luck!

Yeah you don't need to replace the brakes if you are using the bar end shifters. Just get the levers that DVC45 linked.

Depending on the bars, you may need a new stem. Mountain flat bars are usually 25.4 diameter, and road bars are usually 26.0. There are some drops that are made to work with 25.4 stems, like the excellent Nitto 115 bars:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/h...ars/index.html

They are suppose to be back in stock on the 25th. That is assuming that JensonUSA gets their stuff from QBP.

If I were you, I'd not go with caliper brakes. Either keep with the linear pull brakes and use a travel agent with the brifters or us a linear pull compatible brake lever. Or, replace the linear pull brakes with cantilever brakes and just use the brifters.

Either way, you will need to replace the rear derailer. It looks like you have a 2006 FCR3, so that would mean you have a SRAM derailer that is not compatible with the Shimano shifters. I'm not sure about the front derailer. The Shimano one that is on there is only suppose to work with the flat bar shifters, but you might get it to work with the brifters, it should work fine with the friction bar end shifters.

Hey everyone, thanks for the help.

I just finished placing my order after the long decision. (jk)
I went with the Bar end shifter, the RL520 levers (black/black), Easton EA70 ergo bar, and Serfas Red Bar tape.

My current stem is completely adjustable and should work fine (For now). I will most likely buy a new stem when I figure out the angle I want it to be at first. (Touring on it once or twice).

Thanks again for all the help and I will post pictures before and after.

-X

The issue with the stem isn't that it won't get you the angle that you want, it's that the clamp diameter might be wrong.

As pasopia pointed out, MTB bars are usually 25.4 mm diameter, the easton EA70 (at least all the ones I saw listed at jenson) are 31.8 mm diameter. So, the problem would be that the new bars are too big around to fit in the clamp on the front of your stem.

Not a big deal, you can pick up a cheap stem till you work out exactly what length/angle you want. Just make sure that's it's for 31.8 mm bars.

Chris

Good catch. I don't know why, the Diameter of the bars did not even cross my mind. Should I get the matching EA70 stem? Or do you guys have any suggestions on the stem. The angle is important to be comfortable to but THAT important for any other reason because I am not racing on the bike, but touring.

My opinions on brakes for touring seem quite different. Here's what I think.

The amount of weight you carry while touring adds to the burden on the brakes. It's always good to have lots of stopping power. Other considerations, like weight and aerodynamics are somewhat less important on a tourer. It's also good to have good leverage for long downhills where you're gong to be using the brakes a lot, so that your hands don't get too tired and uncomfortable (even painful.)

Caliper braks will work fine, but cantilevers will work better. Linear-pull brakes are even better, but there might be a space issue with the racks, and you need either special brake levers or an adaptor to make drop-bar levers work with them. I have cantilevers on my tourer and linear-pull on my mountain bike. I like the linears so much that I would consider putting them on my tourer, but haven't felt motivated enough to make the conversion; the cantilevers work fine.

Another issue I've faced on tour is protracted downhills, coming down the backside of a mountain pass, when my rims heated so much that I had to pull over a few times to let them cool. Again, this was no big deal, but it might be an argument in favor of discs. I'm leery of discs because it seems that they would put torque on the spokes, and I've had spoke breaking problems on tours in the past. I'm thinking I'll let others try out discs on tourers and see how things shake out before I consider them. My last tourer lasted 15 years before I felt compelled to replace it with my LHT. It's 2 years old, so I'll probably have a lot of time to consider what I want on my next tourer before I actually am in the market.

Thank you BigBlueToe for your thoughts and input.

In regards to the sapce for racks and panniers, this bike is already setup and has been more than tested with all of the panniers and such on it. The brakes (at this point) are not going to be touched or changed. I have already mounted my VBrakes with Koolstop's and purchased Tektra Long pull brakes for drops. I too have felt that weary feeling of having the brakes get hot while braking downhill on tour. This I am willing to deal with for now, as it only happened once doing 45mph downhill and about 100lbs worth of crap loaded.

see, this is why I couldn't do it the right way. I just couldn't keep track of so many details and so many options. I eventually got lucky and used drops from an old Ross steel 10-speed - which for some reason had thinner drops and fit my stem. I did have to use a steerer tube extender to those drops back up where I like my hands, even with the adjustable stem, the bars need to come back up. I think I had to replace 2 cables due to changing length, especially the front brake cable. now here is where I got really lucky. I just flipped my rapidfire shift/brake combo units upside down and they still work! no new anything besides the bars!

I'll enjoy watching this thread to see how it is done the right way! :-)

No need to get a matching Easton stem, anything with the right clamps sizes (31.8 for those bars, and, i'm guessing, 1 1/8 for the steerer) will work. If you're not sure of the angle go for something cheap. Nashbar and Pricepoint both have their own brand of stems that I've had good luck with, and are reasonably priced. Or, check around for stuff on clearance, you can usually find stems for cheap. Also, as long as the clamp sizes are right, don't worry about road or MTB, they'll work the same.

Hope that helps,

Chris

I know that the stem did not need to match, but if you're going to do something, might as well. Besides they added the one I want in my size and had it for less than 20 bucks down from 80 or something. So, just as an update now.

Handlebars - Easton EA70 Ergo Wing Drop Bars
Stem - Easton EA70 110x31.8
Brake Levers - Tektro RL520 (Black/Black)
Shift Levers - Shimano 8 Spd bar end shifters
Grip Tape - Serfas Echelon Red Grip Tape. (Synthetic Cork) This I can change whenever, and I tend to change twice a year anyways.

I should have all the spare cables if I need them, if I don't have them I live very close to a couple bike shops. Everything (Minus the Stem) should arrive thursday mid-day and the stem will probably be here monday or so. I'll definitely let everyone know how it goes. Thanks for all the help.

-X

Just an update on the handlebar conversion. I got all my stuff but the stem today. I ordered the stem the following day so 'll probably get it either Saturday or Monday. But Here is the picture of the stuff so far.

http://alphabluetech.com/kj2/fotos/a...arConStuff.jpg

I hope you know how to wrap you handlebar with your new bar end shifters its not like you do with out bar end shifters.To me its real easy.And the stuff you got are nice best of luck to you have a great time riding.After you get it all done can we get some pics.

Thanks KDC. I have not wrapped them yet, but any tips I will take. I forgot to buy brake cables so I got everything setup (not fine tuned) except for the brake cables and wrapping the bar. I may fiddle around with the final location of the brake levers before I wrap them as well. Here are some update pics. Like I said, not adjusted, just installed.

http://alphabluetech.com/kj2/fotos/a...al_ea70set.jpg
http://alphabluetech.com/kj2/fotos/a..._hbconside.jpg
http://alphabluetech.com/kj2/fotos/a...hbconside1.jpg

It's kind of hard to see how you are routing the shifter cables. It appears you are running them up to the brake levers then off of the bars. Most people that I have seen have the cables leave the bars only after a couple of inches. I prefer to them on the bars all the way around to almost the stem. Do which ever way you prefer.

As for not wrapping the bars until the levers are set. I agree with this. I pretty much know how I like to angle my bars and my levers, but I still don't do a final wrapping until after I have taken the bike for a long ride. What I do, is either find some old tape or an inner tube sliced lengthwise and do a crude wrapping that will allow me to adjust the levers up or down, out or in. Once I am satisfied, then I remove the tape job and put on new tape. Just remember to take an Allen wrench with you on your ride so you can adjust the levers while out on the road.

Yes Sweet, thank you for the advice. ;) That would be my luck/memory to forget my tool and keep forgetting what had to be adjusted. I actually think I have it Pretty dman close now. But, as for the **** cables I am running them up and pretty much going to run them up to the bottom of the hoods and have them split there.

I just realized that the barrel adjusters they came with can't fit my braze-ons so I have to pick up a set of inline adjusters apparently. I am super excited about this, as I can already tell this will make my touring days way more aggressive. So this might not get finished until Monday at the earliest. Don't think there any bike shops open tomorrow in the area. Guess I'll have to check.

You never mention if you had replaced the rear derailer. Those Shimano bar end shifters will not work with the SRAM rear derailer.

Sure they will in friction mode. But you're right this is something I did not bring up. For the time being, I believe I will be running in friction mode. I will have to upgrade the derailleur though sooner or later. Perhaps when I get replace my chain, cassette and a couple going chainrings.

Well, they will shift in friction mode, but you most likely won't have all the gears. Shimano's 2:1 actuation ratio means the cable is moved x amount to shift where the derailer moves 2x. SRAM is 1:1. For example, lets say you pull .5 cm of cable. The Shimano derailer will move 1cm and the SRAM will move .5cm.

This means that you will need to move the shifter twice as far to get a shift when using a SRAM derailer. For sake of argument, let's say the cassette cogs are 35mm wide. The Shimano shifter will move the derailer 35mm altogether. Lets give it some extra play and say 44mm. With the SRAM derailer, the movement is halved, 22mm. This will be less than the entire range of cogs.

So, while in friction mode, the derailer will move and shift the gears, but you won't be able to use all of the gears.

Finished the conversion today. At least as far as the handlebars go. There is still some tuning involved for the gears. I did not switch to SIS derailleur yet so I am using friction mode for the time being. Works great though.

http://alphabluetech.com/kj2/fotos/a..._EA70HBred.jpg

http://alphabluetech.com/kj2/fotos/a...conSideRed.jpg

All I can say, is I LOVE the difference and for a total cost of under 150 shipped, I say it was not bad at all.

Congrats! It looks great.

Thank you.

And thank you everyone for help and input. I did this entire conversion (pretty much with same plan but possible brifters) on this thread. It would have been MUCH more expensive and probably more mechanically frustrating. This was pretty straight forward and the fact that I can utilize friction mode until I go to SIS is a HUGE plus.

JensonUSA.com was great and I had my stuff before christmas even though I ordered it on the 21st at 1 in the morning or something. Good stuff. If you guys wanna see any more pictures, let me know. I literally just finished this about an hour ago. I can't wait to take it out on first big tour this year.

-X

Glad to hear that it works in friction mode. It all depends on how much extra play they put it in. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.

Don't worry, I will be getting a shimano RD. Probably when I change out the cassette (worn) chain, and maybe a chain ring or two. I really like the gearing on the bike for touring as it is tried and tested, which is why I had no quarrels about keeping the shifters the way they are.