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It says Semi-cartridge...so a serviceable cartridge?
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Back to wheels for a second... can anybody make a recommendation on whether or not to buy these?
http://springfield.craigslist.org/bik/1656415543.html |
Sounds like the rear is a freewheel rather than a freehub. (meaning the "cassette" houses the innards that let you stop pedaling while still moving forward)
On this type the hub is threaded and the gear cluster screws on. This particular back wheel uses nuts to secure the rear wheel instead of quick release. A Freehub has the innards attached to the hub and the cassette slides on using a locking ring to secure it. A wheelset in good condition for $50 isn't too bad a deal. Depends on what you want. |
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Yup I'm willing to deal with 7 speeds and looking for freewheels when it's time to replace...
I'm using barcons so shifters are no biggie... But I'm wondering if it's going to be a PITA to get some wheels that were probably built for 125mm rear spacing to fit correctly into a 132.5mm spaced frame or if I can make it work just fine and I've just saved myself $200 on wheels... |
The Velocity DeepV is a narrow rim, and not ideal for touring. I don't think it's rated for much more than 25-28mm wide tires. Other than that it's a good, if heavy, rim.
Also, as near as I can tell, the quality of Joytech hubs are all over the place. Some models are junk, some are decent, from what I've read. They supposedly have a higher-end OEM operation that sells hubs to other companies that rebrand them (e.g. the Speedcific hubs at OddsandEndos.com), but who knows what are on these wheels. |
Ok, that's what I needed to know. Thank you, Metaluna!
I'll pass on those then and get some of Dear Departed Sheldon's $260 wheels. http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=2469 Even with that, my cost for this beast is going to be WELL under a thousand, even with racks and panniers, thanks to the free groupset and $80 frame. That makes me a happy panda. :) |
Originally Posted by Metaluna
(Post 10567127)
The Velocity DeepV is a narrow rim... I don't think it's rated for much more than 25-28mm wide tires.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9...D720/ry%3D480/ |
And I've read elsewhere that the Deep V has been used with 2.1-2.3 29er tires (and tubes).
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Originally Posted by TonyS
(Post 10567144)
I'll pass on those then and get some of Dear Departed Sheldon's $260 wheels.
http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=2469 |
Originally Posted by sstorkel
(Post 10568679)
FYI, the Mavic A319 wheels I pointed to at Bicycle Wheel Warehouse seem like a much better deal! $200 for Shimano 105 hubs, DT Competition spokes, and DT brass nipples or $205 if you want Shimano XT hubs. Completely customizable, too: if you want black rims, black spokes, and purple alloy nipples they'll build 'em for you. Yeah, I know: they're 32-spoke rather than St. Sheldon's 36ers. Trust me: you won't miss the extra four spokes...
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I've been told I *will* miss the extra four spokes, when my 32 on the rear start breaking under my 225lb carcass plus all my stuff. Being a clyde, I'd rather be safe than sorry on that, and I'll pay an extra $50 for that safety.
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Originally Posted by TonyS
(Post 10569749)
I've been told I *will* miss the extra four spokes, when my 32 on the rear start breaking under my 225lb carcass plus all my stuff.
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Originally Posted by mijome07
(Post 10567909)
If it works for you, great, especially if you already have the wheel and want to cheat a bit and go up a size or two over the recommended limits. But if someone is buying a new wheel specifically for the purpose of fitting wide tires, I can't recommend it, especially when I read stuff like this: http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html Although you can use practically any tire/rim combination that shares the same bead seat diameter, it is unwise to use widely disparate sizes. If you use a very narrow tire on a wide rim, you risk pinch flats and rim damage from road hazards. If you use a very wide tire on a narrow rim, you risk sidewall or rim failure. This combination causes very sloppy handling at low speeds. Unfortunately, current mountain-bike fashion pushes the edge of this. In the interest of weight saving, most current mountain bikes have excessively narrow rims. Such narrow rims work very poorly with wide tires, unless the tires are overinflated...but that defeats the purpose of wide tires, and puts undue stress on the rim sidewalls. |
Metaluna, I personally wouldn't do it. And that photo isn't of my bike. :D
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Found a Deore top-swing FD for $10 on Craigslist today... is that going to work with my MTB cranks? If so, would it be better to get that one rather than the FD that came with the cranks so that I can use the bottle cage for water, or is that a lost cause anyway?
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Top swing FD's are generally designed to work best with MTB cranks, so you should be fine there. I ended up using one on my Nashbar build, and I now have plenty of room for a bottle cage or other accessory (I mount my Topeak Turbo Morph G pump there).
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Ok well $10 isn't that much anyway... I'm gonna get it and see if it'll work.
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So, I got the FD... and it's the right size, and top swing... no more looking for shims, and my water bottle will probably fit!
Anyway, here's the damage so far... Frame: $80.00 BB, 42/31/22 Chainrings & Cranks: FREE Installation of the above: $40.00 Deore FD: $10 Alivio RD: FREE Stem: FREE Rear Rack: FREE 11-34 8sp Cassette: FREE Tektro Mini-V Brakes: $20.00 Seatpost & Headset: $40.53 Headset Installation: $15.00 ------------------------------- TOTAL SO FAR: $205.53 And here's an estimate of what I think the rest will cost: Wheels & Rim Tape: $270.00 Tubes: $10.00 Tires: $100.00 Tektro Long Pull Levers: $20.00 Brooks B17: $89.00 Bar End Shifters: $50.00 Handlebars: $35.00 Bar Tape: $10.00 Chain: $15.00 Cables: $40.00 --------------------------------------------------------- ESTIMATED COST OF ENTIRE BUILD: $844.53 Not bad! I get exactly the bike I want, for about $200 cheaper than an LHT in similar condition... actually, it's better than that, because if I remember correctly I'd have to swap out the gearing on the LHT. WIN. :D |
This bike has better components and is cheaper.
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...rist_x_600.jpg |
Aww, are you not feeling the love?
In answer to your question, the Tourist is a nice bike! But the rack, FD, RD, crankset, wheels, saddle, and headset on my bike will be both higher quality and more geared to what I'm looking for... and the tires and shifting will be more to my taste, so that's "better for me". More importantly, I get the satisfaction and experience of putting the thing together myself. |
Originally Posted by TonyS
(Post 10585780)
Aww, are you not feeling the love?
In answer to your question, the Tourist is a nice bike! But the rack, FD, RD, crankset, wheels, saddle, and headset on my bike will be both higher quality and more geared to what I'm looking for... and the tires and shifting will be more to my taste, so that's "better for me". More importantly, I get the satisfaction and experience of putting the thing together myself. |
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Originally Posted by TonyS
(Post 10668874)
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Cheaper, even!
Thanks for the link! |
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