LeeG

looks like you're having fun and the question isn't one that others can answer for you. You leave out your load but if you're planning on riding with two sets of panniers front and back then the weight of the bike is pretty much irrelevant. If you were touring with a light aerodynamic load and YOU were a low fat body then there's a lot lighter set-ups you could use than a Surly rack, fork, wheels and Brooks saddle. If all you can realistically fit in the rear is a 32mm tire then you've kind of put an unnecessarily big and heavy LHT fork up forward. Again, if you're not a light person and you're not riding with a light load this is all academic.
If you are a light person and are planning on carrying a light load I'd suggest spending another $600 for totally different components.

Cyclebum

You're overdoing the tires. Just slap some 28s on there and go. Nimble and plenty of clearance that way. If they're 80 psi, up it to 100. They'll take much more before blowing. See link.

https://www.sentient-entity.toucansur...ng_wheels.html

antokelly

100% correct

ullearn

I am having fun with the question and looking to the experience and knowledge of others to influence me. You statement above has perked my curiosity of what this $600 would be spent on? I haven’t finalized the load yet, but the tour is coast to coast camping style with a hotel maybe every 7th day. I plan to go as light as I can on gear within reason of price for the item, but not go into the ultra light area (I will carry food and likely a netbook around 2lbs). My idea is two loaded rear panniers, two med to light front panniers, and then the tent and anything else that can be exposed to the elements on top of the back rack. I feel I am fairly light to medium at 165lbs.

Nice site, hadn’t seen this before and like the write on the tire sizes.

cachehiker

True dat.

With no load or just about any load, my earlier 26 lb. Soma build always felt quicker than my current 29 lb. Jamis with its 20mm longer stays and 25mm longer wheelbase.

However, I've also ridden both with the same wheelset and a 40-ish lb. load on the same rear rack. The Soma began to show its limitations by getting a bit wobbley in faster corners where the Jamis remains totally solid.

That's why I bought the Jamis and moved the better touring wheels, rack, and gearing over to the sturdier frame. I thought the Soma would handle loads like that better than it did.

Of course now I'm moving some of them back and preparing to sell the Jamis frame. I don't need more than 30-40 lbs. unless I'm camping and since nobody would give my what my old, bombproof, 1999 GT Backwoods was worth, I have since set it up for touring as well.

I don't need two touring bikes for one road and one mountain trip per year. The GT can handle both.

sstorkel

Bike: Nashbar Double-Butted Aluminum touring frame, 3T Ergosum handlebars, Fizik MicroTex handlebar tape, Specialized Comp-Set stem, Cane Creek S-3 headset, Nashbar Carbon Cyclocross fork, front BB7 disc brake, rear Avid Shorty 6 cantilever brake, Performance Bike seatpost clamp, some random aluminum seatpost, Selle SMP Extra saddle, Ultegra triple STI shifters, Ultegra SL triple front derailleur, Shimano Deore M532 crankset (26/38/48)+bottom bracket, Ultegra SL rear derailleur, SRAM chain (PC-1030 or maybe PC-1050), Shimano 105 12-27 cassette, Jagwire cable+housing kit, Surly brake hanger, 3x Forte Stainless Steel bottle cages

Wheels: Shimano XTR 32H hubs, Velocity Synergy OC rims, DT Swiss Competition spokes, black brass nipples, Shimano XT 160mm front brake rotor, Vittoria Randonneur Hyper 700x35 tires, Forte cloth rim tape, Forte Road tubes w/Presta valve

ullearn

23lbs makes sense if it doesn't have your rack(s) on it, sounds like some good savings on your wheels and tires; I swear the LHT wheels (XT / Alex Adventure) weigh a ton in comparison to normal wheels.

Here it is as a normal road bike just after I built it up and before the fork was trimmed.

BengeBoy 

Nice bike. Stop torturing it. Put it back together, then go get a touring bike.

My 2 cents.

Doug64

It's your choice, and it's fun to mess around with a bike-- Why not get rid of the 38mm tires and go with some 28's or 32's. I suspect that would take our a sizable chunk of that 2 pound difference in frame weight. AdamDZ's comment about gear is right on. Most of us could save 5-10 lbs by paring down our gear. I'd like to think I'm getting there, but I'm sure there is still room for improvement.

Sorry-- I didn't see the second page and duplicated some of the posts comments!

lancele

I've built up many bikes just because it's a hobby and I buy many cheap quality used parts from bike swap meets over time. My latest build was a titanium mountain bike ($275 frame) that cost roughly $700 with some good second-hand mountain bike parts purchased at swap meets and online auctions. The finished product comes out to 19-20 lbs, and it could probably drop another 4-8 ounces with road tires replacing the current knobby tires.

The only issue is that it needs a rear rack that mounts to the brake bosses and rear skewer, which OMM makes.

The frame was actually meant to be an all purpose bike, but it was one size too large, and I ended up making it into a hybrid/mountain bike. The only carbon components are the headset spacers.

Since my gear weighs about 21-22 lbs including panniers, I've never really had handling issues. I don't even consider myself an ultralight tourer/backpacker, but just someone with quality light gear and not taking too many unnecessary items.

If you're patient enough and find the right deals, you could build a very nice lightweight tourer at a reasonable price.

-Lance

ullearn

Just finished the mockup build tonight, the tires were rubbing with 38c's so I went by the bike store and bought a 35c and 32c to see which would work better. Funny enough I get home and remember I don't have any 32c tubes, then it dawned on my wifes bike (Trek 7.2 FX WSD) already had 700x32c wheels. So before ever swaping the bike shops tires (which are going back tomorrow) I threw her rims on my bike and Wa-La fit perfectly with fenders, brake, and all (minus front brake).

I haven't got to load it out yet to test if there is any flex, but with a previous rack on the bike I had no problems with pedal/heel clearance.

Updated pic all put together (just not my rims & no front brake yet)

antokelly

fantastic job ,so what wheels have you (did i miss that) why don't you use 28 tires supreams if definitely the way to go excellent tire.
so do you reckon with the load on the bike is going to be solid on the road at any speed.
have you figured out yet what weight your going to be carrying loaded up .im more interested in the rear weight and how the front is going to handle with just rear panniers.

LeeG

ok, your load is a medium heavy load and your handlebar height implies an easy power output and not stretched out posture with bars much lower than seat. Your rig makes sense. I was thinking if you were converting a road bike with agressive posture into a touring bike and you were carrying over that same posture with a light load with no front panniers then there wasn't much use for a big front fork and heavy touring wheels. But seeing a fairly upright posture and more weight on the rear wheel it's good to have those LHT wheels and with front panniers you can enjoy some cushy and low rolling resistance tires. You aren't going to be going fast so have fun and go for comfort.

ullearn

The wheels are LHT Alex Adventurer with XT hubs (doubled walled / 36h) and tires I found 32c is the widest I can run. I don't see any reason that it should be solid at speed. I am curious to why you would recommend a 28c tire versus a 32c tire?

My thoughts were the wider the more pleasant the ride is and I heard that the added rolling resistance is negligible, but the comfort is improved.

sstorkel

Dunno about antokelly, but I would not recommend a 28mm wide tire over a 32. To me a 28 feels just like a 700x23 or 700x25: harsh. 700x32 and 700x35, with their slightly lower pressure are much more comfortable, which is great for long-distance riding.

LeeG

For the load you're describing I wouldn't go for 28mm.

LeeG

riding home with groceries or unloaded there's sections of the road where I have to ride over 2" bumps and small potholes of asphalt near drains, I can't unweight or bunny hop, especially when cars are passing me by a couple feet at 35mph so I have to go through them. "ahh, fat tires"

antokelly

comfort we are talking 4mm here the 28 will be fine ,unless your doing some kind of scientific test you would never know the difference.but it's your bike the choice is yours best of luck with it .
im not trying to be smart .

ullearn

I apreciate all feedback good/bad agree/disagree, I did read someone elses post that said their only regret for a TransAmerica tour was that they didn't choose 28c tires (in the context they rode a 35 or 32). So I don't think your by yourself in your thinking.

Thanks to everyone so far on this thread for putting in your opinons and knowledge.

antokelly

my buddy uses 28 all the time never once had a problem and belive me he carry's loads of gear front/rear panniers well loaded up.btw i really love your bike if it works out you could set a whole new trend in the touring world.

BengeBoy 

Thanks for starting this thread and sharing your project. Even though I suggested you head in a different direction, I admire your creativity in developing a "second build" for this frame. I'm sure you'll have fun on the trip.

njkayaker

Narrower tires are typically run at higher pressures. Higher pressure on smooth roads will be a bit faster. For the same pressure, the width isn't too important, but people don't run these different tires (generally) at the same pressure.

kayakdiver

Just to throw a monkey wrench into the tire question... I've ridden 28's that ride better than 32's... example being Conti 4 Season in 28 vs... my least favorite tire or all time.. schwalbe Marathons in 32.

The conti was a superior tire in ride, just as flat proof but... didn't last as long. Even Conti Gator Skins in 28mm rode better.

I guess all I'm saying is.... I'd rather ride a smaller quality tire over a cheap hard riding larger one.

BigBlueToe

I toured for years on Specialized Armadillo 28's. Now I have Schwalbe Marathon 32's. The Armadillos worked fine and I liked them. The Schwalbes feel better. So much for my scientific input on tire size.

BengeBoy 

You can also get a larger quality tire. I'm riding a Schwalbe Marathon Supreme 32c's right now on my commuter/touring bike - I really like these tires. Maybe not as flat resistant as the Schwalbe Marathons, but much lighter. 1 flat in 2,000 miles. They are pricey, but seem to be wearing really well, so not that expensive in the long run.