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That's how I am going to dress my LHT frame

Old 10-05-10, 10:09 AM
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That's how I am going to dress my LHT frame

Hullo.
I spent two months studying the touring forum and ,finally, yesterday I made a list of the parts I think would suit me best. So I would like your opinions.
(except the brakes, I will buy all the other parts from bike-components dot com so the prices are from their website)

Frame:
Long Haul Trucker 700C 369/510$
https://www.surlybikes.com/frames/lon...trucker_frame/

Wheels:
Hubs - Shimano XT (rear) 35/48,4$
Shimano 3N80 hub dynamo (front) 55/76$
spokes - DTswiss Competition 100pcs 46/63,6$
rims - 2x Mavic A319 28" 54/74,7$
tires - 2x Schwalbe Marathon 32-622 30/41,5$

Drivetrain:


crankset&BB - Shimano Deore FC-M590 170mm (Hollowtech II) 65/90$
https://www.bike-components.de/produc...dell-2010.html

front derailleur - Shimano Deore FD-M590 19/26,2$
https://www.bike-components.de/produc...dell-2010.html

cassette - Shimano CS-HG50 8 speed 15/20,8$

rear derailleur - Shimano SLX Shadow RD-M662 8/9 speed. 35/48,4$
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-s...age-prod17754/

integrated shifters - Campagnolo Veloce Ergopower 10speed 2009* 95/131,4$

*Shimergo!

Saddle:
Brook B17 Imperial 63/87,2$

Handlebar:
Deda big piega 44cm 23/39$
https://www.bike-components.de/produc...er-Lenker.html

Brakes:

2x Tektro Oryx 33/45,7$
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=34891

Headset:
Ritchey Logic Comp V2 16/22$
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Ri...et/5360033744/

Total: 885 or 1224$
I don't think it's bad for a custom build.

I am still searching for an appropriate stem.
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Old 10-05-10, 11:14 AM
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Any reason why you are using an 8 speed cassette with 10 speed shifters?

Otherwise seems pretty solid. I would get the shimano BR-R550 cantis over the Oryx, they are nicer.
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Old 10-05-10, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by pasopia
Any reason why you are using an 8 speed cassette with 10 speed shifters?
I prefer brifters over bar-end shifters but I thought I couldn't use them with a MTB crankset and MTB front derailleur.
After a lot of research, I found that Campagnolo ergopower 10 speed shifters work perfectly with an 8 speed shimano cassette (or with 9 speed cassette with a cable trick). Also, the front ergo shifter is not indexed, so I can use a front MTB derailleur. Unlike STI shifters, which are useless to me because they have indexed front shifting and less cable pull than needed for a MTB derailleur.
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Old 10-05-10, 11:46 AM
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Maybe somebody else will pipe in, but I think Tiagra front derailleurs work well with mountain cranksets and STI. Mixing 10 speed and 8 speed and Campy and Shimano sounds clunky to me, but maybe it works great.
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Old 10-05-10, 12:06 PM
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Yep, get better brakes.

It's real easy to get caught up in the $$ you are spending. The bike is a long term investment though, so it pays to get the best you can the first time. It's the biggest mistake people make when building a bike, thinking they'll "upgrade" later on. You just end up spending more than if you would have got the better stuff the first time.

You could go better with the rear hub and rim, but that's your call. Make sure you get them built by a pro though, built "to stand". No truing or tweaking needed after you start riding them.
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Old 10-05-10, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by jellochaos
I prefer brifters over bar-end shifters but I thought I couldn't use them with a MTB crankset and MTB front derailleur.
After a lot of research, I found that Campagnolo ergopower 10 speed shifters work perfectly with an 8 speed shimano cassette (or with 9 speed cassette with a cable trick). Also, the front ergo shifter is not indexed, so I can use a front MTB derailleur. Unlike STI shifters, which are useless to me because they have indexed front shifting and less cable pull than needed for a MTB derailleur.
Why don't you get a road front derailleur instead? To do this you should also change to a 3 peice crankset and buy a spindle that is 5mm shorter than reccomended.
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Old 10-05-10, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Bezalel
Why don't you get a road front derailleur instead? To do this you should also change to a 3 peice crankset and buy a spindle that is 5mm shorter than reccomended.
I don't really want to risk getting a road derailleur that might not be compatible with the crankset I want...
If I get a road derailleur, I would need a crankset with a shorter chainline.
For more information on the shimano-campagnolo combination, google "shimergo".
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Old 10-05-10, 04:48 PM
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Sorry, I'm still trying figure out mixing the 10 and 8. The cable pull is right, but presumably this means that two gears on the shifter simply won't work. On the loose end, this may not be a problem, but if you ever try to overtension the cable (shift to a low gear that your limiter screw won't allow), you could find yourself with a broken shifter. Campys are supposed to be better in this regard than Shimanos, and my experience with breakage is Shimano, but it still seems like a risk.

If you go ahead with this, make sure it's the low-tension gears that are beyond your shifting range.
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Old 10-05-10, 06:42 PM
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Use an SLX rear hub. Cheaper and the same important internals with the exception of a steel (instead of alloy) lockring thread. It holds the lockring better, won't strip out if you're a ham-fist, and is generally more durable. Minor weight gain, but who cares on a touring bike?
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Old 10-05-10, 06:49 PM
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As for the drivetrain - veloce is badly built, pure and simple. Pretty sure that tiagra 9v stuff works on MTB gear, or just use tiagra running gear with any long-cage shimano rear derailluer (105 and up is just as durable as slx stuff) with an MTB triple.

The BB and rings on deore cranks are made of some non-metallic cheese-like substance. get an xt/slx BB, or just an slx crankset.

spend a bit more on a719 rims. They're a lot stronger.
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Old 10-05-10, 08:08 PM
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I would get bar end or downtube mounted shifters, preferably with a friction option (or friction only). Much more dependable than brifters of any kind, even after the drivetrain, cables and housing start to wear. With separate shifters and brake levers, you have the option of using high quality V-brakes, which will stop the bike faster and are easier to set up and adjust. Cane Creek makes a V-brake compatible lever that will fit drop bars.
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Old 10-05-10, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jellochaos
Wheels:
Hubs - Shimano XT (rear) 35€/48,4$
Shimano 3N80 hub dynamo (front) 55€/76$
spokes - DTswiss Competition 100pcs 46€/63,6$
rims - 2x Mavic A319 28" 54€/74,7$
tires - 2x Schwalbe Marathon 32-622 30€/41,5$
I'd suggest that you take a look at the Handspun Pavement Series 5 wheels.
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Old 10-05-10, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by pasopia
Any reason why you are using an 8 speed cassette with 10 speed shifters?

Otherwise seems pretty solid. I would get the shimano BR-R550 cantis over the Oryx, they are nicer.
+1 on the shimano BR-R550 cantis I have them on my LHT they are very easy to setup and adjust I think anyway.And I put on down tube shifters on it too.Wish you the best of luck but I am like a lot here you will be better off with a 9 speed setup my 2 cents.
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Old 10-05-10, 10:05 PM
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Before you get far along with gears, it's wise to run the shift order through the sheldon calculator. You may not like where the gears end up one way or another and this will help you choose. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/
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Old 10-05-10, 11:14 PM
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I posted this on another thread, but this is how I set up my LHT. If you are not stuck on an Octalink crank this setup has worked well on 4 bikes. Granted the the square tapered craksets don't have much "bling", but they are dependable and flexible.


68mm bottom bracket shell and a 45-47mm chainline, 700 c wheels.
-103mm axle square taper botom bracket (IRD@ Harris cycles).
-Sugino DX500 44/32/22 mountain crankset.
-Shimano Tiagra STI 9 spd shifters 4503.
-Tiagra 9 spd. front derailleur, triple.
-Shimano LX rear derailleur.
-Shimano XT 9 spd. 11-34 rear cassette.
-Sram 9 spd chain.
-Road bars
This set up worked well with both 130 and 135 mm rear dropout spacing. The critical combination is the bottom bracket, crankset and front derailleur. The 103mm bottom bracket lets you keep a 45-47mm chainline with mountain bike cranks. Mountain bike cranks usually are set up with non-STI shifters to run about a 50mm chainline. STI shifters and road FD's are designed to use the 45-47mm chainline. I've only used Sugino, but it might work for other MB cranks as well. The Tiagra front derailleur is very versitile and forgiving. The reason I use the "old fashioned" square taper bottom bracket spindles is the wide range of sizes available. The 103mm is the shortest made. The rest of the components are mostly personal preference. The Shimano Deore rear derailleur seems to work as well as the LX.

If you use the "trekking" cranks, such as the Sugino DX600 48/36/26(28), a 110 mm bottom bracket will work OK.

I don't have any experience with bar-end shifters, but I believe they are also a little more forgiving than STI's.

How folks set up their bike is a really personal thing. This is one way that worked well for me, but there are many more setups that will work just as well or better. Good luck on your rebuild.
This is the drivetrain that is on my LHT. This was toward the end of the build before-cutting steerer tube, and installing racks and fenders.


This is also the exact setup on my wife's new bike . I put linear pull brakes (with travel agents) on this bike-Avid Single Digit 7's. I think they are better than the Cantilever brakes on my bike.

Last edited by Doug64; 10-05-10 at 11:17 PM.
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Old 10-06-10, 11:25 PM
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Jellochaos,

Forget all my BS in the previous post. I did not realize that you wanted 170 crank arms. The DX 500 only comes in 175 as a set. My wife needed 170's and I bought the 175mm set and a set of 170 crank arms. I put the chainrings on the smaller crank arms, and installed. It was an expensive proposition, but I wanted that particular crank--not worth it for most folks. A member on another thread said he used a Shimano 442 square tapered crank with the 103mm BB, and it worked well for him. I just checked my favorite supplier, Universal Cycles, and the 442 was only listed with a 175mm crank arm.

Good luck on your build!

Last edited by Doug64; 10-06-10 at 11:35 PM.
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