While they do not require a brake bridge, you might consider a brake booster--at least on the front. The power of the V-brake will cause the mounting studs to deflect outwards, causing a 'spongy' feel--some bikes more, some less. After I added brake boosters, it is like having a 26" disc--no deflection, so ALL the power goes into pressure on the rim. Just a thought.

BTW I switched my front to disc, and had to go to a 203mm rotor to match the stopping power of the V-brake/booster it replaced.

tl;dr

I'm not familiar with mini-v brakes, but if they work then I shall recommend them over cantis now.

BTW, I'm not trying to say that mini-Vs are better than all cantilevers in all situations. I just wanted to be clear that one is no longer limited to adjusting brake lever choice to suit v-brakes: he can adjust the v-brake style to suit the levers he prefers!

Vs have some clear advantages like the elimination of brake chatter because of the different way the brake cable is routed (i.e. the housing moves with the brake), while other "advantages" may be just personal preference. There are a lot of different cantilever designs out there, and a lot of different ways to set them up (straddle cable length, etc.) and of course a lot of personal preference in brake feel.

BTW, thanks for the complement on the Ritchey frame. It rides great and with the advantage of being able to break it apart for travel, I think we're going to do some overseas trips together over the next few years! I have wanted one for years but just didn't like the color schemes. I was lucky to find this one that was ordered without paint by a Ritchey employee and painted white. He decided he wanted to go with a smaller size and I was able to buy this one.

Avid SD7s are a fine V brake. They're worth the extra cost over SD5s. I've used them for ~25,000 miles on 3-4 bikes, both road and mtb use. I have 4 sets of these, and 2 are the fancy Ti-hardware version which weigh ~160g per set complete.

Even better are Avid BB7s (disc). Use the long-pull ROAD version with drop bars/road levers. I use these with Campy brifters on a LHT on the front, and a cantilever brake on rear. They perform just like the mtb BB7s. A great brake.

"doesn't matter. once you start pulling cable on the canti brake the mechanical leverage goes down at the brake."

I don't think that is all true, it is true that the straddle cable can do that, but you can adjust the arms so their slope is in the opposite direction, so it nets at contact. I don't really see it as an issue in any case. I don't worry about braking leverage in the air, only in contact with the rim, it is either enough or not. Clearly it is enough.

"This is true, but what you give up on the at the the handlebars is far less than what you gain at the brake. Get out a measuring device and you will see. I am correct in my assessment. As I said, linear pull brakes are superior in every category, this not opinion it's fact. "

Clearly not true. If the reach from the hoods gets bad enough it's very serious. I don't believe the net result is supperior, or that it maters. All the excitement is coming from the lever arm. All the other points are worse. If lever arms were a problem they would just have made larger cantis, and some have been made, the fact they didn't catch on, or that the other many methods of bousting brakes have not caught on, is because they aren't required.

Also, I don't think your analysis takes into acount the stradle cable effect on brakes, which while declining is none the less a form of booster. Grab a string by both ends from which a heavy object is suspended in the middle and now pull both ends till the string is straight. Proper stradle cable use will significantly improve brake performance. Maybe the people who say cantis set-up is too complex have a point.

I'd happily use Vs on a touring bike, but I'm not drinking the koolaid from the manufacturers. Everything has it's pros and cons, which is part of why cantis are still around.