Brooks saddles with springs: any opinions?
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Brooks saddles with springs: any opinions?
I'm about to order a Brooks saddle, b17, for new bike.
I see these variations with springs. How do they ride? Do they absorb shock? make squeaking noise?
I see these variations with springs. How do they ride? Do they absorb shock? make squeaking noise?
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Yes, they absorb shock and consistently make a squeeking noise to remind you how often they do. They are considerably heavier also, I highly recommend them.
Marc
Marc
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The weight is not that big of a deal/minimal IMO(Loose 1 pound of body fat if you concerned)
The bike seat is one of the most important components on a bike. Being confy is what's important.
I have the B67 model, I dont have squeaking noise on mine.
I recommend ANY Brooks model.
The bike seat is one of the most important components on a bike. Being confy is what's important.
I have the B67 model, I dont have squeaking noise on mine.
I recommend ANY Brooks model.
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Mine's a bit heavier, squeaks on some bumps, but I like it. I have a couple of loaded centuries on it, works good and is comfy enough.
#5
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If you're going to ride bad roads (cobbles, broken, frost heaves, etc.) a lot, then the sprung version would be better for you. Otherwise the standard saddle works nicely on normal bad roads.
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I noticed no comfort difference whatsoever between my B17 and B67, the latter being considerably heavier. But I weigh only about 160 lbs.
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I have one of their sprung models - an older, discontinued Countess. I weight 120 pounds, and it bounces when I'm pedaling hard on a high gear. Very annoying. It also squeaks a lot. I've never owned an unsprung brooks saddle, so I can't tell if it's worth the bouncing and squeaking or not.
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I am on the light end of the Clyde scale at 215#, I prefer sprung saddles. I use a Brooks Flyer on my touring bike and the wider B66/67 on my more upright bikes. Yes the springs help take the edge off of bumps and jars. Mine don't squeak, if they do I use a bit of grease or proofide on the offending spring. FWIW all but one of my bikes has leather saddles, with most of them being Brooks or Wrights. I have one oddball with an Ideale on it.
Aaron
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ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#9
I use a B-17 when saddle is equal to or higher than handle bar height (very comfortable) and a B-67 for saddle lower than handlebars (most comfortable). If weight matters I don't use a Brooks (uncomfortable when riding more that 2 hours). See my signature pic/links for reference.
Also the SPINGS in the sprung saddle do not squeak BUT you may need to lube the saddle nose with Proofide.
Also the SPINGS in the sprung saddle do not squeak BUT you may need to lube the saddle nose with Proofide.
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I have a Champion Flyer (springs) on my tourer. It used to squeak a lot; now not so much. It's comfortable, but on tour I get sore butt. I get off the bike from time to time during the day and it's okay.
I put a B17 on my "fast" bike. It's also very comfortable. In fact, initially I thought it was more comfortable than the Flyer. However, I've never ridden it on a tour with many back-to-back long days. I intend to take it on a tour one of these days and see if it makes my butt sore after several days.
I'll have to get back to you on that.
I put a B17 on my "fast" bike. It's also very comfortable. In fact, initially I thought it was more comfortable than the Flyer. However, I've never ridden it on a tour with many back-to-back long days. I intend to take it on a tour one of these days and see if it makes my butt sore after several days.
I'll have to get back to you on that.
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Thanks for the comments. Looks like I can't make a bad decision here, as long as I get the Brooks.
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I use Brooks on everything, both sprung and unsprung. I have a B67 (sprung) on my touring bike. I wouldn't trade for it. It probably has about 20,000 miles or so.
I have a Flyer (sprung B-17) on my Paramount road bike, and it totally eliminates buzz on chip seal. Truthfully, it's amazing. I don't care if it does weigh 2 pounds.
We have a B68 and a B68S on our tandem (unsprung B67).
I have a Flyer on my mountain bike also.
None of them squeak. Put a drop of neatsfoot oil where the metal meets the leather.
I have a Flyer (sprung B-17) on my Paramount road bike, and it totally eliminates buzz on chip seal. Truthfully, it's amazing. I don't care if it does weigh 2 pounds.
We have a B68 and a B68S on our tandem (unsprung B67).
I have a Flyer on my mountain bike also.
None of them squeak. Put a drop of neatsfoot oil where the metal meets the leather.
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I have the Brooks Conquest, a discontinued sprung model that has a shape like Brooks Pro.
The springs are quite stiff, if you are looking for a smooth Cadilac ride, look elsewhere. Springs are more noticable if you weigh more. I weigh about 215 pounds. I measured about 4-5mm of spring deflection when I sit on the saddle.
Big bumps, no difference between springs and no springs because for the big bumps you shift your weight off the saddle and more to the pedals. Small bumps and rough road is where the springs smooth out the ride.
Squeaks, I smear a bit of Brooks Proofhide on the metal parts under the nose of the saddle where metal parts rub on metal parts as the springs load and unload.
The springs are quite stiff, if you are looking for a smooth Cadilac ride, look elsewhere. Springs are more noticable if you weigh more. I weigh about 215 pounds. I measured about 4-5mm of spring deflection when I sit on the saddle.
Big bumps, no difference between springs and no springs because for the big bumps you shift your weight off the saddle and more to the pedals. Small bumps and rough road is where the springs smooth out the ride.
Squeaks, I smear a bit of Brooks Proofhide on the metal parts under the nose of the saddle where metal parts rub on metal parts as the springs load and unload.
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Flyer, broken in. Love it. Never had the unsprung, but just love the sprung seat. Once it "customizes" to you -seat pain goes away. Did my first century with it and had no pain, from the seat.
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Have a Flyer on my touring bike, really like it. When it was new, I remember a time in a high gear and pedaling hard that it had a rhythmic bounce to it, I must have adjusted that out, don't recall that since. Never any squeak or anything, but I was not one of those lucky people that felt comfortable on it right out of the box.
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My sprung Brooks squeaks with every pedal stroke. Can't tell any difference between a sprung and unsprung saddle and I do a lot of riding on dirt and gravel roads. Keep in mind that every time those springs compress that energy is transferred directly to the bolts that connect the saddle and seatpost. Enough compressions and you'll shear the heads off...as I have done twice.
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I have the Flyer as well. It does make a little noise here and there while riding. It seems most effective at removing road buzz and small bumps. I noticed that right away when I installed the saddle. I haven't noticed any bouncing while pedaling.
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I have B68's, B67's and B72's on most of my bikes. The best for comfort is a B72 that I got lightly used, and since put about 2000 miles on. Next is a B68 bought new, broken in, 'butchered', laced, and it is very comfortable too. A B67 bought new, broken in, 'butchered', laced, and ridden is nearly as comfortable, as well. It is hard for me to evaluate shock absorbency, since I use Thudbuster seat posts on my most ridden bikes. To deal with back problems, and for comfort adjustability, I use the long travel ones.
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I would like to add one thing for those looking to buy one.
When you go to the store make sure you lay it flat on the counter and inspect it.
Make sure it's not crooked.
When I bought mine I didnt check and about week later I noticed the fault on mine.
Took it back to the bicycle place for a replacement but they weren't having it.
So I went home and fixed it myself.


I added 3 washers on the left side(2 bottom, 1 top) and that made it leveled.
The moral is Check your Saddle before you walk out.
When you go to the store make sure you lay it flat on the counter and inspect it.
Make sure it's not crooked.
When I bought mine I didnt check and about week later I noticed the fault on mine.
Took it back to the bicycle place for a replacement but they weren't having it.
So I went home and fixed it myself.
I added 3 washers on the left side(2 bottom, 1 top) and that made it leveled.
The moral is Check your Saddle before you walk out.

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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
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