Did you happen to weigh this frame before you started??

I measured the bottom bracket height today. 11.5 inches to the center of the crank bolt. I'll measure the top tube and standover height tomorrow. I straddled the bike and had a comfortable amount of clearance for my 34 inch inseam, at least for a tourer. I expect the top tube length to be close to what was listed. I'll be using a fairly short stem, no more than 100 mm.



I put the frame and uncut fork on a kitchen scale. It came to something less than 7 lbs, very close to 6-1/2.

The top tube measurement of 59.5 center to center is pretty accurate.

From the top of the top tube to the floor (standover) I measured 32 inches.

PROGRESS UPDATE

My brake levers and shifters came in, so I went down tot he bike shop yesterday to pick them up and do some more work on the bike.

I bought and installed a stem. It's a 90 mm long ITM stem with a two-bolt removable faceplate. It looks short, but I can swap it for a longer one if I choose. I haven't cut the steerer yet. I want to play with the stem height first. So there's a big ugly stack of spacers above and below the stem.

I also bought a seatpost. It's a cheap Kalloy model. I put the celeste Flite saddle on it for the time being. It may stay there. I'm not sure yet.

The handlebars are an old set of Modolos that I had around. I'll level them out soon.

I also cranked some downtube cable stops/barrel adjusters onto the frame for the shifter cables.

Next step: brake levers and cables.

I'm looking for a cheap, sturdy 9 speed rear wheel now. Looking...not finding.

It looks a bit more like a bike now.

How's the bike coming along?

Thanks for asking. I really haven't made much progress on it lately. An illness in the family has taken up a lot of my time and energy.

I have obtained a set of inexpensive wheels: Acera rear hub, generic front hub, 14-gauge spokes, 700 x 35 double walled rims. They should be sturdy enough, though the hubs may not be real durable. I put cloth rim tapes in them and hung some old rubber on them for the time being.

I put a set of Dia-Compe 287V levers on the handlebars and cabled them to the brakes. They set up sweetly.

When life normalizes a little, I'll be looking for derailleurs and a cassette next. I have a set of Dura-Ace barend shifters that I'll be using.

Maybe I'll get a picture or two taken soon.

I've been thinking about getting this frame as a commuter city bike. I found the pic below on a thread over at roadbikereview.com

Tried to link a pic, but they won't allow it.

So here is the link to the thread. There are some photos over there, including a complete build of the Nashbar frame.

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/sho...ashbar+touring

damn, that thing looked quite nice

Nothing has been posted for quite awhile. I'm curious how everything ended up and what your final opinions are. I'm also looking at the Nashbar Touring Frame and thinking about building up a bike.

I've got the bike built up and rideable. I still need a few parts: bottle cages, a new saddle etc. I'll take some pictures tonight and post them soon. I can hardly wait to get it out on the road and see how it rides. So far, I've only had it on the trainer.

Just a clarification, those dropouts are stamped, not forged. On both frame and fork.

No. These are forged drop outs, clearly welded to the frame and fork. Unless you know something I don't...

And here, at last, the bike that I have come to think of as "The Polished Turd." I'm not done with the build yet, but as I said it is rideable. I took it out for a 16 miler this afternoon. It behaved like a touring bike, steady as a rock, not terribly nimble.

Well, we have been following this project for awhile...and we are ready...take it out on the road and tell us how it rides. Is it too nosey to ask: how much money did this project end up costing?

And some build specs...

* indicates parts I had on hand. Other parts were purchased new.

Nashbar Touring Frame ($137.00) Aluminum w/ steel fork.
Tektro V-brakes
Dia Compe Levers
Shifters: Dura-Ace bar ends (For use w/ Dura Ace derailleurs only)
Headset: Aheadset (Cane Creek)
Fenders: Planet Bike Freddy Fenders
Computer: Sigma Sport BC 800 *
Wheels: Acera Level hubs, generic 36 hole rims, 14 ga spokes
Handlebars: Modolo Road bars *
Pedals: Shimano SPD mtb pedals *
Chain KMC 9 speed (barely long enough!)
Crankset 105 Triple 52, 42, 30 *
Bar Tape: Cinelli Cork black/white/gray splash
Front Derailleur: 105
Rear Derailleur LX 9 speed long cage
ITM Alloy Stem:
Kalloy Seatpost
Rear rack: Jandd Expedition
Cassette: LX 11-34
Bottom Bracket: 105 Octalink *
Saddle Selle Italia Flite *
Stay Tuff chainstay protector and frame “dots”
Tires: Kenda Kourier 700 x 35
Dimension Seat post collar

Parts I have on hand but have not yet installed:

Jandd Low Rider Front Rack
Topeak Handlebar Bag *

And a couple of parts I have on order:

Wheels. Mavic MA3 rims, LX hubs laced together w/ 36 14 ga spokes (replacing the generic wheelset)
3 Specialized Cascade Mtn water bottle cages
Brooks B-17 Saddle, honey brown (to replace the Flite saddle)

Work to be done:

Trim steerer tube

I haven't done the accounting very well, and I did use a few parts from the parts bin. I would guess that I'm about $600.00 into the project right now. The new wheels will cost me another $200.00.

As for ride, it was not nearly as harsh as I anticipated. The Kenda tires (inflated to 85 psi) softened the road shock considerably. It's a very well-mannered bike. It corners like a semi, though I leaned it into a good downhill curve and was pleased with its predictably. I rode no hands for a while and found that it tracked true. It was not a fast ride. I've built it up fairly heavy and frankly, I'm not in good shape....Winter, ya know?

All in all, I'd say that it was a bargain for $137.00. It's certainly not a Rivendell, but it ain't bad. I'm looking forward to loading it up and trying some long miles.

Oh, and I'm real proud of myself. My LBS mechanic declared the shifting "flawless."

Cool project!

About five or so years ago I built up a Nashbar road racing frame as a "hybrid" for a friend of mine. He rides on the bike path exclusevely and wanted something light and faster but didn't want drop h/bars. He actually doesn't ride it much because he says it's uncomfortable. The frame color is a red/white/yellow fade. He has gotten alot of complements on it. The frame weights exactly four lbs., I weighed it at work on a very accurate postal/UPS scale.

Interestingly enough all the welds on it have been sanded smoothed like a Cannondale.
I can borrow the bike and take pics of it (with complete specs) if anybody is interested.

Congradulations.

Very nice work. I'm impressed the bike came out that good looking. I guess all bikes are good looking. You paid about what I spent for my Bianchi Volpe but your bike has better components. And of couse, a bike you build yourself will aways mean more to you than one built by a shop. Happy riding.

My water bottle cages arrived today. I just got them installed. Those Specialized cages are utiliatarian...in looks and function both. They are basic black plastic cages, a little bulky looking, not too heavy but virtually indestructible. They don't mark up bottles. They are my favorite cages for applications where looks don't matter.

I just bought this frame set, witht the cupon code for 10% off it came to $170, that's pretty cheap! I decided that if I am going to have only one road bike it has to be more versitle than my Lemond Buenos so the 105 triple kit is moveing onto this frameset. I aslo commute and do a little touring so I wanted something stouter than the Lemond was offering me.

I also like that there's no advertisng logos on the frame.

I think that people genuinely overstate the importance of framesets. Wheels and tires do WAY more for ride quality than framesets ever will, there's virtaully no vertical compliance in any tradtional double triangle frame.

Good parts count for something too.

I'd be intrested to hear mopre about how you like the frame.

I've discovered a fairly significant flaw in the Nashbar Touring frame. The chainstay bridge is mounted a little too far back from the seat tube. It doesn't allow enough clearance for fenders and fat tires (I'm running 700 x 35s). In order to make the fender work, I had to jury rig the fender so that it passes in front of the bridge.

Oh well, what do you want for nothing? A rubber biscuit?

"Oh well, what do you want for nothing? A rubber biscuit?"
LOL... I'm surprise they make mistakes like that on a TOURING bike. My old schwinn (a late 80's sierra comp) has TONS of room there. I have fenders and use gigantic 26" tires and have lots and lots of room. I know its a MTB but still......
D

i'm bumping this thread back up because it's exactly what I'm wondering about. Regular Guy, are you there? How do you like the bike?