Wolber GTX rim for touring?
#1
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Wolber GTX rim for touring?
Hello everyone,
I'm planning my first tour from Memphis to Southern, CA, plan on leaving early May. Questions is: I've built up an '82 Trek 614 for the trip, it currently has Wolber GTX rims, I like how the rims ride but are they up for the challenge of loaded touring? I'm pretty light (145 lbs) and will only be carrying two panniers, tent and sleeping bag. Also, how do I figure out the spoke lengths so I can get a couple extra in case I break one?
Thanks for the help - Here's a pic of the bike so far!
I'm planning my first tour from Memphis to Southern, CA, plan on leaving early May. Questions is: I've built up an '82 Trek 614 for the trip, it currently has Wolber GTX rims, I like how the rims ride but are they up for the challenge of loaded touring? I'm pretty light (145 lbs) and will only be carrying two panniers, tent and sleeping bag. Also, how do I figure out the spoke lengths so I can get a couple extra in case I break one?
Thanks for the help - Here's a pic of the bike so far!
#2
Banned
have the wheels tensioned and kept in true,, if it's not a strong suit, mechanics,
stop along the way for maintenance.. that makes the difference,
more than X or Y brand rim.
Bike shop will fix you up with some spare spokes, and some tools
so you can take off the gears to get to the broken spoke, invariably behind them.
stop along the way for maintenance.. that makes the difference,
more than X or Y brand rim.
Bike shop will fix you up with some spare spokes, and some tools
so you can take off the gears to get to the broken spoke, invariably behind them.
Last edited by fietsbob; 04-11-12 at 10:31 PM.
#3
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Things to consider:
Spoke-count -- Even though you're pretty light yourself, you never know what you might find yourself cramming into your panniers when you're on a trip as long as that. Having a 36- or 40- spoke rear wheel would be welcome insurance against wheel failure. (I can't tell whether you've got a 32- or 36-spoke rear wheel from he photo.)
Amount of (steep) descending your route will include -- those anodized rims are supposedly more prone to heat-induced cracking, mostly a danger on steep descents when you're braking a lot, especially in bad weather.
27" or 700c -- I'm pretty sure you've got the latter but in case you don't you'll want to carry a good spare folding tire since you can't count on finding a good 27" tire at any old bike shop.
Measuring the spokes isn't so hard to do when they're on the wheel if you're careful. Just assume the spoke reaches into the nipple a mm or two beyond the point where the nipple disappears into the rim.
Spoke-count -- Even though you're pretty light yourself, you never know what you might find yourself cramming into your panniers when you're on a trip as long as that. Having a 36- or 40- spoke rear wheel would be welcome insurance against wheel failure. (I can't tell whether you've got a 32- or 36-spoke rear wheel from he photo.)
Amount of (steep) descending your route will include -- those anodized rims are supposedly more prone to heat-induced cracking, mostly a danger on steep descents when you're braking a lot, especially in bad weather.
27" or 700c -- I'm pretty sure you've got the latter but in case you don't you'll want to carry a good spare folding tire since you can't count on finding a good 27" tire at any old bike shop.
Measuring the spokes isn't so hard to do when they're on the wheel if you're careful. Just assume the spoke reaches into the nipple a mm or two beyond the point where the nipple disappears into the rim.
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I had those rims on my 80's Miyata Alumicross that I used for touring. They held up fairly well. I do remember breaking a spoke once or twice, but they did fine for the most part. I was able to fit a 700x42 Avocet Cross tire on the frame. I didn't break any spokes once I switched to the wider tire.
#5
The Left Coast, USA
36h, I can't say those are trouble free wheelsets. I think you 'll need to lay in a reserve of spokes. Run by an LBS, they should be able to fix you up with some spare spokes and nipples. If you don't true wheels, learn now...and make sure you carry a spoke wrench or two. All my Wolbers are wobblers, they like attention.
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the rims could be fine it's the wheel that's an unknown. Are the spokes corroded cadmium plated that you can't turn the nipples on, are they nearly new built with ss. spokes, are these 30yr old wheels that have hardly been ridden, are these 30 yr wheels that have been ridden somewhat but never retrued so the rear spokes are on the loose side and loading the rear wheel up with panniers is just the thing to start spokes breaking.
It's not the rims, it's the status of the wheel which is hard to tell without holding/plucking the spokes and running it through a wheel stand or simply looking at the rim turn and whether it's out of round.
It's not the rims, it's the status of the wheel which is hard to tell without holding/plucking the spokes and running it through a wheel stand or simply looking at the rim turn and whether it's out of round.
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Thanks for the responses. The rims spokes, and nipples are in very good condition and it appears have been taken good care of. I've been riding this wheel for a couple years and haven't had any problems... I have commuted on it with one fairly heavy pannier but never loaded touring weight. I attempted to true the wheel myself and got pretty close, but since it was my first time and tension was not perfect I just brought it to the LBS to have them do it. Better to be safe than sorry. I will definitely have some extra spokes handy. Is there a lighter/smaller tool than a chain whip to remove the cassette?
#8
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I'd probably give them a go and keep an eye on them. I did have problems with them on my old road bike where they developed radial cracks around some of the spoke holes. That was with 32 spoke wheels and no load other than a 200 pound rider. So I would keep an eye out for cracks around the spoke holes.
#9
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Just have funds with you, or in the credit card to buy a new wheel along the way.
in case of adversity.
You might be able to spot true the spokes on either side of the broken one.
to limp into the next town..
hyperglide cassettes have a lock ring, you need a lock-ring tool.
and a big enough wrench to turn it.
others suggest Zip ties hold the big cog to the spokes,
instead of a chain whip.
in case of adversity.
You might be able to spot true the spokes on either side of the broken one.
to limp into the next town..
hyperglide cassettes have a lock ring, you need a lock-ring tool.
and a big enough wrench to turn it.
others suggest Zip ties hold the big cog to the spokes,
instead of a chain whip.
Last edited by fietsbob; 04-12-12 at 11:57 AM.
#10
-
https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fiberfix.htm
#13
Banned
Have to access the lock ring , with the wheel out of the bike,
Uniglide is the old twist tooth scheme, 6 speed,
those were held on the freehub by the last cog.
The fiber fix will fake it to the next shop..
S bend rather than the head. on a few spare spokes was used too.
Uniglide is the old twist tooth scheme, 6 speed,
those were held on the freehub by the last cog.
The fiber fix will fake it to the next shop..
S bend rather than the head. on a few spare spokes was used too.
#14
In the right lane
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