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Changing the brakes on my 2009 Jamis Aurora

Old 06-19-12, 07:58 PM
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Changing the brakes on my 2009 Jamis Aurora

I am thinking of changing the brakes from cantilever to Nashbar Long Reach Road Brakes.

I would like to get better braking performance and I have no issues with running 28 width tires.

Is this something that is feasible?

I am going to do the work myself and I am pretty handy around a bike.

Thanks
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Old 06-19-12, 08:13 PM
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Are you sure you've done everything you can to optimize your canti brakes? Check here: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...lver-Brake-FAQ

If I were to make a brake change from my cantilevers, I would probably try v-brakes and a brake lever change. Some have used Travel Agents to make v-brakes work with their existing levers, but I have no experience with them. V-brakes are pretty powerful and usually easy to set up.
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Old 06-19-12, 08:23 PM
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Checked FAQ and Sheldon Brown's page. The only thing I have not done so far is to adjust the straddle cable (and hence the mechanical advantage). I am tempted to purchase a set of Tektro RX5 Mini-V and give that a try. The brifters are Shimano Tiagra 4500 series 9 speed.

Thanks
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Old 06-19-12, 08:58 PM
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I put a set of TRP CX-9 mini-Vs on a Crosscheck. They are a bit expensive, but they are really nice brakes. Much better than cantilevers. The only drawback is they need to be positioned really close the rim to work properly. There is a newer model, the CX-8.4 that supposedly addresses this issue but might have a little less stopping power.
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Old 06-19-12, 10:06 PM
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Thank you. According TRP, the CX8.4 is not compatible with Shimano STI brifters. Hmm..
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Old 06-19-12, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by fstshrk
Checked FAQ and Sheldon Brown's page. The only thing I have not done so far is to adjust the straddle cable (and hence the mechanical advantage). I am tempted to purchase a set of Tektro RX5 Mini-V and give that a try. The brifters are Shimano Tiagra 4500 series 9 speed.

Thanks
I'd start with the straddle cable. For me, that's the single most important adjustment to make for a positive brake feel. I always run mine low and short with a wide staddle carrier like this

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Old 06-19-12, 10:42 PM
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What pads do you.use? Also do you clean your rims after riding in rain, keeping them clean and scrubbing them with a green pot cleaning pad, and or alcohol, will go a long way to improving braking power (especily with new soft pads)
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Old 06-20-12, 03:25 AM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
I'd start with the straddle cable. For me, that's the single most important adjustment to make for a positive brake feel. I always run mine low and short with a wide staddle carrier like this

+1

I replace straddles with low and wide ones (there are several models out there), and run good pads on good to excellent cantilever brakes on my bikes and have always had all the stopping power I need, even heavily loaded touring in hilly areas. These days I'm running a mix of old XTR cantis and Tektro 720's. Set up right with good pads and wide and low straddle carriers is all you should need. This also saves you from having to replace brake levers or add Travel Agents.
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Old 06-20-12, 05:29 AM
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I concur that most of the time, it's a matter of getting the cantis adjusted properly.

They won't feel as grabby as some other brakes, but that doesn't mean they don't have stopping power.
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Old 06-20-12, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by fstshrk
I am thinking of changing the brakes from cantilever to Nashbar Long Reach Road Brakes.
I would not expect that to be an improvement over properly adjusted cantis. Shorten the straddle cable and I bet you will be golden.
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Old 06-20-12, 06:56 AM
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Brake pads also make a huge difference if you are running stock Shimano or Tektro pads. I replaced all of my brake pads with KoolStop Salmons and it made a big difference, particularly when roads are wet but also in dry conditions. My mechanics apparently know how to adjust canti brakes because I have never had an issue with mine -- they stop great and don't squeal. I've got Shimano BR-R550, Shimano CX50 and Tektro 720 brakes on my bikes and all of them work great.
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Old 06-21-12, 05:31 PM
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I fought cantis on my Cannondale T2000 for several years. Squealing, grabbing, juddering, etc. Adjusting would work for a short while, but eventually it would start all over again. I finally got sick of it and installed v- brakes with Travel Aids for the STI shifters. PROBLEM SOLVED!
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Old 06-21-12, 05:38 PM
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Also consider a fork mounted cable hanger, this will eliminate fork shudder and reduce any loss in power due to flex between the cable stop and the brake arms;

https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Brake-.../dp/B003LRF1ZS

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Old 06-21-12, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Barrettscv
Also consider a fork mounted cable hanger, this will eliminate fork shudder and reduce any loss in power due to flex between the cable stop and the brake arms;

https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Brake-.../dp/B003LRF1ZS
+1. This worked really well for me.

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Old 06-21-12, 09:34 PM
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Paul MiniMoto.
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Old 06-21-12, 10:28 PM
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Cool looking but 130 smackeroos
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Old 06-22-12, 06:19 AM
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fstshrk, I've had a couple of bikes with long reach caliper brakes and in both cases there was brake arm flex that reduced their stopping ability, YMMV.

Optimize what you have now since you have bike skills. I was able to greatly improve my cantis by shortening the straddle cable to where it clears my fenders (when they're mounted) by a few mms. I don't have the stopping power of linear pull brakes (compared with my mountain bike) though they're quite effective. I didn't have a front brake judder problem, but used a fork mounted cable housing stop to clean up the cable routing. A wider straddle like in #8 would likely help, but I kept my OEM Shimano design.

Brad

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Old 06-22-12, 09:52 AM
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Cool looking but 130 smackeroos
NB Paul's company is in California, manufacturing there,
not sending designs and Jobs to TW, then re importing and shipping.


My favorite rim brake, after trying them for 5 years, Magura. HS33
their hydro-stop is the only hydraulic rim brake .. German..
now in the 20th year of production.
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