I 2nd the Vaya, I love mine and I feel that you can get it sized correctly to fit anyone. I am 5'9, have a 55cm and keep the bars high. I traded for a 80mm stem for a bit more upright stance. I wasnt exactly sure what benefits came from a $4000+ bike, so I got a vaya first, to see what I may want in my "last bike purchase ever". Im still trying to figure it out after 1500 miles on the Vaya. So far my only conclusion is i'd like something a bit lighter.

I think you're onto something there. Out on the coast ride I ran into two gals touring on LHTs. Both of them had tall stacks of washers and shortish aftermarket stems. Once they were riding the gals looked to be about in the position they'd be in on a correctly-sized stock Vaya.

Note, while all Waterford frames are rad, OS is the first steel they started making bikes with.


http://waterfordbikes.com/now/faqshow.php?qandaid=7

Another thought--Assuming the OP is new to touring and may be even new to riding.

Buying an expensive bike, regardless of the benefits (or not) without a lot of riding experience may not be the best approach. One reason is that if you are not sure bike touring is something you will do long-term, the investment may not be a good one. Starting with the lower cost option may be the way to go for a number of reasons. And as many of us have found out that "just right" feel of a bike often does not have anything to do with price.

It also takes a lot of riding to find out what you like or dislike. Riding as many bikes as you can helps, but long days in the saddle are a lot different than a spin around the block at the bike shop. Putting in saddle time on any bike will let you know if it really fits. If the stock bike does not meet your needs, then maybe another model or a custom build is justified.

When I built my wife's bike up for her she had thousands of miles of riding on a number of different bikes. This was likely the last touring bike she would want or need. It was a long-term investment. She knew what worked for her and what didn't, e.g., which "brifters" would work with small hands or what handlebar shape suited her riding style. She was adamant about what type of brakes she wanted (I put them on with protest, but they worked so well , I'm going to put them on my bike :)). She was involved with every major component selection.

FWIW- I am perfectly happy with my LHT. :thumb:

This has to do with the brake question the OP raised in another thread but still is a little OT here
She wanted STI short reach shifters with V-brakes which requires a little more work than most brake installations.
http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/y...0072-2-1-1.jpg

One of the advantages (or not) of knowing what you want on a bike and a husband that is handy around bikes.
http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/y...C_0028-2-1.jpg

Old thread, but the weight of the Waterford (terry) frame is significant even if you insist weight doesn't matter (as the Terry weighs about 7 lbs. less than all other touring-specific bikes mentioned above). This is what differentiates it from other custom bikes (that I can see). Is it worth $2000 though? For some, definitely. The shorter chain stay length is something I hadn't noticed and is a factor. Nice catch!

Ms Terry got some Ideas from Pre existing bikes ..

Motor Pace Stayers used 24" front wheels with 700c Rears ,
But she adapted them to make a shorter reach cockpit without the other compromises
required by sticking with a Big front wheel..

Just One of the companies She Uses to Build Frames for her company to sell is Waterford.

Now with 11t cassettes the rear wheel can shrink in size Too.

I bet the weight difference is components added Not the frame itself

strip to bare frame and compare just those..

I think it is the frame and components that achieve the weight difference, (if the weight stated ~ 20.5 lbs., per her website) is accurate. I don't have one to weigh, to see what the true difference is or to test ride for comparison sake. I think this is problematic, as the ride tells you a lot.