How do you deal with your loaded bike while changing a flat tire?
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How do you deal with your loaded bike while changing a flat tire?
If you're KM's from a bike stand, do you carefully lie the bike on its side or do you have a different solution?
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No I carry my bike all the way back home on my shoulders so I can put it in the stand.
I will lie my bike down, non drive side, in the grass. If its my front that flatted I lean the rear wheel up against a tree or guardrail.
I will lie my bike down, non drive side, in the grass. If its my front that flatted I lean the rear wheel up against a tree or guardrail.
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dont ask silly questions and expect a serious answer without some friendly sarcasm first.
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#5
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I remove the panniers and then simply remove the wheel just as I would on my other bikes if I get a puncture whilst out riding. I don't use the work stand at home either for punctures.
On my last tour, the Chasing the Dirt tour I got two punctures in the tyre fitted to the Extrawheel Voyager. Life is easy with the Voyager. I just removed the panniers, lifted the trailer up and removed the wheel. With the last puncture I simply fitted a new tube then when I got up the road to a river with water in it (not that common here) I found the hole and fixed it so I had the tube as a spare again.
Andrew
On my last tour, the Chasing the Dirt tour I got two punctures in the tyre fitted to the Extrawheel Voyager. Life is easy with the Voyager. I just removed the panniers, lifted the trailer up and removed the wheel. With the last puncture I simply fitted a new tube then when I got up the road to a river with water in it (not that common here) I found the hole and fixed it so I had the tube as a spare again.
Andrew
Last edited by Aushiker; 09-27-12 at 04:27 AM.
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In this case, I laid the bike down on the rear pannier, derailleur towards the ground, and removed the wheel horizontally. Having the derailleur down meant the chain was supposed to swing free of the cassette, although the theory doesn't quite work as well in practice. The Thorn's dropouts also are a tight fit for the hub, which doesn't help.
The picture was taken outside the Bordeaux railway station about two weeks ago.
I've used all sorts of other methods, and the rear wheel is by far the most challenging if you run rear panniers.
I've left the panniers on, and lifted the bike off the wheel, then propped it against a post or tree, which is not particularly good for the chainring or rear derailleur. I've removed the panniers and done the same. I've turned the bike upside down, but then that requires protection of the seat and shifters if on a gravelly surface.
None seems to be quite satisfactory enough. And I do use a stand at home when changing out wheels and tyres.
The picture was taken outside the Bordeaux railway station about two weeks ago.
I've used all sorts of other methods, and the rear wheel is by far the most challenging if you run rear panniers.
I've left the panniers on, and lifted the bike off the wheel, then propped it against a post or tree, which is not particularly good for the chainring or rear derailleur. I've removed the panniers and done the same. I've turned the bike upside down, but then that requires protection of the seat and shifters if on a gravelly surface.
None seems to be quite satisfactory enough. And I do use a stand at home when changing out wheels and tyres.
#8
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Actually it is a good question. I have read where folks do all kinds of stuff in this regard. I am always kind of amazed when folks quote extremely long repair times and say what an ordeal it is. When asked they describe a long process that includes removing the panniers.
Me, with my fully loaded pannier setup, I lay it on the non drive side pop the wheel off fix the flat and am usually under way again in 5-10 minutes depending on how hard it is to find the offending object in the tire. On rare occasion the delay can be longer, but usually not.
With my lighter rigs with dry bags instead of panniers, I most often do the same, but have also on occasion inverted the bike and set it on the bars and saddle.
I am not a fan of kick stands, but the two legged stands look like they can work well as a work stand.
Me, with my fully loaded pannier setup, I lay it on the non drive side pop the wheel off fix the flat and am usually under way again in 5-10 minutes depending on how hard it is to find the offending object in the tire. On rare occasion the delay can be longer, but usually not.
With my lighter rigs with dry bags instead of panniers, I most often do the same, but have also on occasion inverted the bike and set it on the bars and saddle.
I am not a fan of kick stands, but the two legged stands look like they can work well as a work stand.
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If there's two of you, it can be a bit easier too ... one can hold the bicycle while the other removes the wheels. And then lay the bicycle down.
If you go the pannier removal method, which I have in the past, it's not that time consuming. It shouldn't take anything more than about a minute to remove a pannier.
If you go the pannier removal method, which I have in the past, it's not that time consuming. It shouldn't take anything more than about a minute to remove a pannier.
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I have cantilever brakes and I pretty much need to remove the panniers to release them. The one time I tried to do it without removing panniers was a real cluster, so to speak.
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Really? I have a hard time picturing the bags as being in the way of that. Is that the case for you with front, rear, or both? On any of the setup I have used my panniers have never even been close to the brakes on either front or rear. I never ran extremely large panniers though, so maybe that is the difference. Or maybe with non-low rider front racks?
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I have cantis but have no problem removing the punctured wheel with the luggage in place, driveside up (to prevent damage and contamination of the chain).
I have horizontal dropouts and usually re-insert the wheel uninflated.
Take care with fluids, esp fuel bottles in your panniers.
I have horizontal dropouts and usually re-insert the wheel uninflated.
Take care with fluids, esp fuel bottles in your panniers.
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One mistake I made once was positioning the wheel's QR in such a way that the rack interfered with opening it. Fortunately, I was able to rotate it without having to remove the rack. Never made that mistake again.
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Inverting the bike with all equipment attached is my preferred flat repair method. It also provides a chance to check spoke condition and adjust spokes and /or rear derailleur as needed. I also support a tarp for shelter with the bike in this position. This also is anti-bike theft deterrent.
#17
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Inverting the bike with all equipment attached is my preferred flat repair method. It also provides a chance to check spoke condition and adjust spokes and /or rear derailleur as needed. I also support a tarp for shelter with the bike in this position. This also is anti-bike theft deterrent.
1) Remove water bottles and front handelbar bag.
2) Pick up bike and stand it on its saddle and handlebars. When you don't have panniers this is easy.
3) Remove wheel, remember to open up the brakes.
4) Remove inner tube and save for possible future patching.
5) Check tire for sharp things. remove any sharp things.
6) Install new tube and inflate the tire a bit.
7) Put wheel back on and finish inflating tire, remember to close brakes........
8) pick up bike and put on 2 wheels again.
Last edited by nun; 09-27-12 at 12:36 PM.
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I remove all the panniers and handlebar bag and turn the bike upside down. It really isn't a tough thing to do.
Last edited by Gus Riley; 09-27-12 at 12:43 PM.
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Unload it, turn it upside down, fix the flat, reload it if rear. Nearly always. If front, lie it on side loaded. Rarely. Tire wires 95% of time. When not on tour, always turn it upside down.
#23
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Trying to remember .. minus fast removal QR bags and not going hyper-light, kit.
if using forethought? open the axle QR, lay the load down on the left,
Der side up. tire will already be flat, don't need to open the brakes.
mend puncture/replace tube, re istall wheel .. without inflating it first
so You still don't have to open the brakes .. then inflate the tire..
stand the bike up, reach down and close the QR on the wheel.
if using forethought? open the axle QR, lay the load down on the left,
Der side up. tire will already be flat, don't need to open the brakes.
mend puncture/replace tube, re istall wheel .. without inflating it first
so You still don't have to open the brakes .. then inflate the tire..
stand the bike up, reach down and close the QR on the wheel.
Last edited by fietsbob; 09-28-12 at 02:41 PM.
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I normally don't even take the wheel off....pop the bead on one side of the tire,remove tube,locate hole,patch tube,check tire for crap,insert tube,push tire back on rim,pump it up.
If the tube is real bad,then I remove the wheel/tire.
If the tube is real bad,then I remove the wheel/tire.
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I may be Captain Dashboard, but I'd rather lay the bike on its side than risk screwing up all the things I've got on the bars -- headlight, speedo, brifters. But a flat isn't worth more than a concentrated huff of annoyance, except maybe when it's getting ready to rain.