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2 chainrings for touiring 36 - 22

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2 chainrings for touiring 36 - 22

Old 12-07-12, 11:26 AM
  #1  
ramseykp
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2 chainrings for touiring 36 - 22

So i am putting together a commuter/light tour bike (elite GT). I was thinking it would be cool to just run a double chainring set up with an 8speed 28-11 cassett in the rear. The thing that is odd about my double is that it has one medium sized cainring (for most of the riding) and one very small chain ring (for any big hills, like mt hood). Similar to many mt bike doubles but a 36 on the big one instead of a 32 or 34.

What do you think? Good idea? Bad Idea?
Has anybody done this with their touring bike?

28
25 22
22
19
16 36
14
12
11
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Old 12-07-12, 11:42 AM
  #2  
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I ran a 39-26 with a 12-28 on the bike I rode the ST with. It worked out fine and I liked the combination quite well.

More recently after leaving that bike at my daughter's home in Florida I set up a bike with a 42-26 and a 13-28, but have not yet toured on it.

I was doing very lightly loaded touring with ultralight backpacking type gear, but I think it could work OK with a bit more weight.
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Old 12-07-12, 11:51 AM
  #3  
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Hi,

Is there a reason to not run a triple? I've got a 48/38/22 that I really enjoy...

At the end of the day, if you aren't going to miss the high end (I definitely would), then I don't see any problems with your choice.

Cheers,
Charles
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Old 12-07-12, 11:56 AM
  #4  
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Is there a reason to not run a triple?

Mine has a 42/32/22
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Old 12-07-12, 12:03 PM
  #5  
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http://store.velo-orange.com/index.p...-crankset.html

is a 46 , made to be a middle ring, + a normal 3rd 74mm bcd chainring
to substitute a smaller to 24t one..


Seems a 16t drop is OK midle to granny, thatis My Triple preference..

Now that cassetes startat 11, a 44t offers a 4:1 high that should be adequate..
my touring rig had a 95" high, 50:14 700c wheels, it was good enough ..

If you can find a crankset to take the 22t chainring, buy then change a chainring,
My use of 2 out of 3 rings on a triple, was different sizes, back in the day 52, 36..


but the graphic centering the big chainring is good.
28
25 22
22
19
16 36
14
12
11
8 speed, align to the gap between the 16 & 19.. that is the center..

might just as well leave the 42,4,6. on the outside of the triple though as the FD cage Arc
is not so good a fit when the diameter is smaller..

dont have to use it, but the crankset will probably have one included.

Last edited by fietsbob; 12-08-12 at 03:20 PM.
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Old 12-07-12, 12:09 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by 10 Wheels View Post
Is there a reason to not run a triple?
Just not really needing the extra ring and the ability to use a short care deraileur are all I can come up with but they are enough reason for me. I probably wouldn't do it for a bike already set up with a triple though.

For touring with a sub 15 pound base gear load on a older racing bike I really liked the setup. I might not do it on a full on heavy touring bike though.

BTW, I have wondered about some of the MTB 1X10 gearing setups and how they would be for touring. With an 11-36 I suspect they might work OK for some folks.

Last edited by staehpj1; 12-07-12 at 12:15 PM.
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Old 12-07-12, 05:55 PM
  #7  
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It's a fine idea, I like running a chain guard on the outer ring position to protect the chainring teeth. My CrossCheck is set up with 44/30 with 12-28 8spd.
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Old 12-08-12, 01:27 AM
  #8  
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I ran something very similar, although I think it might have been a 42-22. That particular set-up didn't work out to great for me, but that was in part because the 42 was just a little to big (to climb hills with) and the 22 too small (in terms of chain capacity). I would either be at the bottom end of the range of the 42 and be wanting a lower gear, or be desperately trying to pedal something like 22-13, with lots of chain skip.

The 36 should solve those problems nicely.
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Old 12-08-12, 03:03 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by fuzz2050 View Post
I ran something very similar, although I think it might have been a 42-22. That particular set-up didn't work out to great for me, but that was in part because the 42 was just a little to big (to climb hills with) and the 22 too small (in terms of chain capacity). I would either be at the bottom end of the range of the 42 and be wanting a lower gear, or be desperately trying to pedal something like 22-13, with lots of chain skip.

The 36 should solve those problems nicely.
I've been running a 42/26 with and 11/34 cassette for a long time. The 16t difference of the front rings makes for easy shifting with a compact front derailleur and the range is 103 to 21 gear inches with high 60"s using the 42t ring and a straight chain.

So to the OP, it's not a strange idea to use a 36/22 double, just fiddle with the rings and the cassette to get the gears you want.
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Old 12-08-12, 05:12 PM
  #10  
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I ran a 38/26 on my Fargo much of the time (with something like an 11-34 on the rear). That was nice as I could spend most of my time in the 38, only bailing out to the granny on steep hills while loaded down. I didn't really miss having a bigger gear, but it was basically a utility bike.
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Old 12-13-12, 07:48 AM
  #11  
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I use the 22-36 with bashplate and really like it, much more than my previous 22-32-44. Mind that this is on an offroad tourer that can double as a road tourer.

With the 22-36 you spend the majority of the time on the big ring, which simplifies shifting. I also use a Surly 36t steel chainring, really durable
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Old 12-13-12, 10:29 AM
  #12  
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A low double up front is mostly good for its 'cool' factor. No real practical value for touring. And a distinct disadvantage when you encounter that rare but immensly fun strong tail wind, or want to TDF the down hills.
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Old 12-13-12, 10:45 AM
  #13  
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The top gear works out to 88 gear inches using 700:28 tyres which you might find to be a little low for those days the wind is at your back or the road turns down... a range of 20 to 100 gear inches is what I consider ideal for touring and non competitive distances.

A 42 tooth chain ring will get you a top gear of 103 gear inches and your derailleur should handle a 20 tooth jump (most do).
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Old 12-13-12, 06:18 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by ramseykp View Post
So i am putting together a commuter/light tour bike (elite GT). I was thinking it would be cool to just run a double chainring set up with an 8speed 28-11 cassett in the rear. The thing that is odd about my double is that it has one medium sized cainring (for most of the riding) and one very small chain ring (for any big hills, like mt hood). Similar to many mt bike doubles but a 36 on the big one instead of a 32 or 34.

What do you think? Good idea? Bad Idea?
Has anybody done this with their touring bike?

28
25 22
22
19
16 36
14
12
11
I'm sort of on the same boat as you. I have a double compact crankset and am in a process of converting to a 34/24 using existing parts, using an old Sugino triple crankset and making it a double with a longer BB to maintain chain line mated to a 11-36 10 speed rear.

I see a few people this year with a double chain ring setup or someone intentionally making a triple a double and adding a chain guard especially for lady tourers. No more chain teeth tattoo on their right calf was their main reason for the conversion and we live in areas with lots of big steep hills so their 38/26T with a 11-34 back make sense. If you live in Arizona or Florida however, then 36/22 would be too low for you or even me.

I've toured a lot with a triple in the past and I barely use the big chain ring unless I happen to go down a steep hill or have a nice long strong tail wind at the back. But how often I get that. Not that often. But my main reason doing a double project was money and I need low gears for next year tour which has some steep long sections on and off-road.
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Old 12-13-12, 10:41 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by pacificcyclist View Post
I'm sort of on the same boat as you. I have a double compact crankset and am in a process of converting to a 34/24 using existing parts, using an old Sugino triple crankset and making it a double with a longer BB to maintain chain line mated to a 11-36 10 speed rear.

I see a few people this year with a double chain ring setup or someone intentionally making a triple a double and adding a chain guard especially for lady tourers. No more chain teeth tattoo on their right calf was their main reason for the conversion and we live in areas with lots of big steep hills so their 38/26T with a 11-34 back make sense. If you live in Arizona or Florida however, then 36/22 would be too low for you or even me.

I've toured a lot with a triple in the past and I barely use the big chain ring unless I happen to go down a steep hill or have a nice long strong tail wind at the back. But how often I get that. Not that often. But my main reason doing a double project was money and I need low gears for next year tour which has some steep long sections on and off-road.
I've toured on 42/26 and 11/34 and also on 46/34 with 11/25. The latter combo was on a Cervelo RS with a lightweight gear load around Massachusetts and over the Berkshire Hills. When you break with the mentality that you need a heavy bike and heavier gear to go road touring then you can also used pretty standard road gearing and a compact crank works just fine.
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Old 12-13-12, 10:43 PM
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65er-"A 42 tooth chain ring will get you a top gear of 103 gear inches and your derailleur should handle a
20 tooth jump(most do)."
What front derailleurs do you suggest for this application, because I'd love to rock a 2x10 alpine touring setup

Last edited by rockpilex; 12-13-12 at 10:57 PM.
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Old 12-13-12, 11:09 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by nun View Post
I've toured on 42/26 and 11/34 and also on 46/34 with 11/25. The latter combo was on a Cervelo RS with a lightweight gear load around Massachusetts and over the Berkshire Hills. When you break with the mentality that you need a heavy bike and heavier gear to go road touring then you can also used pretty standard road gearing and a compact crank works just fine.
I think a lot of people are realizing that a triple isn't necessary for touring like they thought they would and basically the 10 speed cassette helps make the steps between cogs a teeny bit tighter. It's just this year when I came back into loaded expedition touring after a few years hiatus that I came to notice a lot. It's the 36/24T or 38T/24T or 40T/28T that I see a lot of now from light tourer to loaded tourers. Many years prior to that, the triple was more common. I saw one gal riding a Nishiki International with a 36/22T and a rear 6 or 7 speed cluster. Can't remember, but it worked out great for her.

Last edited by pacificcyclist; 12-13-12 at 11:14 PM.
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Old 12-14-12, 05:45 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Cyclebum View Post
And a distinct disadvantage when you encounter that rare but immensly fun strong tail wind, or want to TDF the down hills.
I expected that before I tried it but, I have to say that I was surprised to what extent that was not the case with the rig I used on the ST.
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Old 12-14-12, 06:00 AM
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I was all set to lose my big ring and run a 42,24 and a chain guard with my 12-36 9sp. Instead I added a 45t big ring and so far I’m loving it for two reasons. The straighter chain on the taller gears and having half-steps between the wide spaced 9 sp.
What’s a little grease on your calf anyway.
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Old 12-14-12, 11:14 PM
  #20  
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Gearing is personal. What works well for someone else might not work for you.

I see nothing particularly unusual about the gearing you are proposing. Will you like it? I don't know. Experience will tell you more than all of the (sage?) advice you will receive here!

Between 1985 and around 1993, I toured on a six-speed double, and found it worked well for everything except climbing long and steep hills. (I don't remember the gearing, but it was probably something like 28 - 48 in front and 14-32 in the back.)

Then I switched to a triple, something like 26-38-50 and 14-32 (six speed). Much better on hills.

A few years later, I changed it to 24-38-50 and 14-32 (six speed). Even better.

Now, I ride 22-36-48 and 12-36 (9 speed). It's almost perfect for me... but for you, I don't know.
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