Originally Posted by Medic Zero (Post 15404900)

I'm not so sure the newer versions are

The replacement was uncomfortable at first, was clearly sagging and required quite a bit of adjustment. Now after only about a month I had to pull it off my bike yesterday as it felt like it was pinching me and when I went to adjust it I found that the whole fro
This is so disappointing, the first saddle fit very nicely and was doing just fine after 2,000 miles in the wet Pacific Northwest, but then the rail broke. Now I'm worried that I'm stuck with another ruined saddle as I am now just over a year out from when I purchased the first one. I paid a LOT for this saddle as I wanted it in red to match my bike, so it ended up costing me $200.

/ threadjack over, sorry!

Originally Posted by Northwestrider (Post 15405676)

I have tried to avoid commenting on the Selle Anatomica, However as I believe that is the saddle you are referring to I had to add. that I also had one, it turned out to be one very uncomfortable saddle. It was fine for shorter rides, but for back to back days while on tour, well I replaced it with my B17 and while not perfect , it was much better. I realize many like the saddle so YMMV

Originally Posted by Northwestrider (Post 15388606)

I have a little over 5,000 miles on my standard Brooks B17, yet I'm still not pleased with it. I feel like the edges flare out too much when I apply my 170 pounds to it. The result is a feeling like a knife rubbing against my thigh on back to back rides of 50 - 60 mile days. Has anyone tried to modify their standard B17 with holes similar to the Imperial , then using a leather cord to keep the edges of the saddle from flaring outward ? If so, how did you make the holes, with a drill, or a punch. Was there any improvement ?

Originally Posted by seeker333 (Post 15389998)

A leather punch is quicker and easier, but I try not to buy odd tools I'll likely never use again, so I used a drill and small bit. Tied with some outdoorsy cord from local BP/climbing shop.

I made the mistake of using the Brooks apron embossing as a reference point for spacing the row of holes. Turns out the Brooks stamp was ~1cm off from left to right side, which coincidentally was the spacing for my holes, so I remedied the problem with 2 more holes. Be sure to measure the Brooks stamp location to make sure it's an accurate point of reference before you start making holes. Evidently they simply "eyeball" this step of the manufacturing process without any measurement.

The holes should be located rearwards of the embossing to control saddle spread - up front they have little effect. Tying does control apron spread and reduces saddle sag somewhat too, but it will still sag some even after tying.

Originally Posted by gerv (Post 15408030)

Result is that I no longer need to adjust tension on the saddles. Have used them for about two years since the "operation" and they work fine.