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Brook's Flyer Problem

Old 07-01-13, 01:20 AM
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Brook's Flyer Problem

With this last tour, my insides of the upper thighs hurt and rashed. I believe this might be because of the Brooks Flyer. I THINK that when the springs are engaged the side of the saddle on both sides are flexing out and hitting the inside of my thighs causing rubbing. I do not have this issue with the other two Brook 17's I have.

Anyone have this issue at all?
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Old 07-01-13, 01:20 AM
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Plus the noise of the springs is somewhat annoying.
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Old 07-01-13, 02:29 AM
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If the sides are flaring it isn't the springs, check the leather tension on you saddle compared to your B17's. I have had a couple of Brooks saddles where the leather seemed more pliable than on others. In one case I was able to tighten up the tension screw a bit and make it serviceable, in another I had to lace the saddle.

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Old 07-01-13, 07:21 AM
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I agree with Wahoonc, the springs would not cause that.

Some have punched holes into the leather near the bottom and added lacing to keep the bottoms from flaring out, but I have not done the lace thing so I can't provide advice on how. I just did a google search for "lacing brooks saddles" and got lots of hits. Try that.
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Old 07-01-13, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by chefisaac
Plus the noise of the springs is somewhat annoying.
I had the same problem and Finish Line ceramic lube totally fixed it. I also had a creak and tightening the saddle bolt took care of that.
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Old 07-01-13, 09:49 AM
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Plus the noise of the springs is somewhat annoying.
Only owned single Rail, Brooks Pros myself.. maybe the springs are really not the thing you need..

repeat the ride with an unsprung B17 off the other bike.. perhaps?

As, I Recall , There is a subframe I've seen that keeps the Leather spread ,
so the springs should not let the leather sling between the rivet rails.. go slack..

Last edited by fietsbob; 07-01-13 at 02:34 PM.
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Old 07-01-13, 02:04 PM
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I've been curious about the unlaced versions of brooks saddles... I have only been riding brooks' for a few years but both of my saddles are laced (B-17 aged, B-17 Imperial). I've been thinking about getting the Flyer to make things a little more comfortable. I see that they also have the Flyer in a laced model (Flyer Aged). Just looking at how the unlaced saddles look, I have a hard time figuring how everyone who rides one is not bothered by the unlaced models for the same reason as the OP... Although I don't see how it'd be all that difficult to punch a few holes in and lace it up yourself (I've seen some photos of more dramatic mods on Brooks saddles).
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Old 07-01-13, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
Only owned single Rail, Brooks Pros myself.. maybe the springs are really not the thing you need..

repeat the ride with an unsprung B17 off the other bike.. perhaps?

As, I Recall , There is a subframe I've seen that keeps the Leather spread ,
so the springs should not let the leather sling between the rivet rails.. go slack..
I have both a Flyer Special on my Ogre and a B17 Special on my Moulton (both fairly new - under 500 miles)
For "me" the Flyer is more comfortable although at a certain cadence it becomes alive with the sound squeaking and creaking.
I've yet to set up my Edge 800's sensor to determine exactly what this cadence is, but acknowledge its damned annoying since when the Ogres Rohloff is in 8th gear and pedaling, the bike is nice and completely silent (until that cadence is hit).
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Old 07-01-13, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by mm718
I had the same problem and Finish Line ceramic lube totally fixed it. I also had a creak and tightening the saddle bolt took care of that.
Hi Mm718,
where exactly was your lube points?
My Flyers offending my ears
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Old 07-01-13, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by rifraf
Hi Mm718,
where exactly was your lube points?
My Flyers offending my ears
Hi, Rif:

I understand, mine was bad and very annoying. I didn't really lube the saddle in a thoughtful way.... I was rushed getting ready for a ride and just flipped the bike over and liberally lubed every possible place that I thought might cause the squeak and it worked. The creak was definitely fixed by tightening the saddle bolt though.

How do you like your flyer? I am only 400 miles into mine and although it's getting more comfortable it's not the lap of luxury that Brooks lovers describe. It's just OK. I am hoping more break in time will make a difference since it was painful for me out of the box and things are improving.
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Old 07-01-13, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by mm718
Hi, Rif:

I understand, mine was bad and very annoying. I didn't really lube the saddle in a thoughtful way.... I was rushed getting ready for a ride and just flipped the bike over and liberally lubed every possible place that I thought might cause the squeak and it worked. The creak was definitely fixed by tightening the saddle bolt though.
Do you mean where bolts/nuts are?

Originally Posted by mm718
How do you like your flyer? I am only 400 miles into mine and although it's getting more comfortable it's not the lap of luxury that Brooks lovers describe. It's just OK. I am hoping more break in time will make a difference since it was painful for me out of the box and things are improving.
I started with a Brooks B73.
I loved everything about it except for its weight (1.1kg) and the chrome springs outpacing my attempts to staunch the advance of corrosion. My saddle was comfort personified.

An issue with my Moulton APB I was facing was excessive weight.
I attempted and succeeded to shed a lot of this by swapping out heavier parts including my Sturmey Archer front Dynohub (also 1.1kg) for an Sondelux(390grams) and Brooks B73 (1.1kg) for a Brooks Swift Ti (390grams).

I gained a credible weight saving but at the expense of comfort.
I just couldnt make the Swift work for my backside and it would become the equivalent of a medieval torture device anything after 30 kilometers.
I toured on it for my across Australia tour but it never really improved although my mileages did.

I not long ago swapped the Swift for a B17 Special to my rears relief although its not perfect it is a lot easier on the butt than the Swift.
The Swift tends to suit folk with narrower sit bones than I guess I've been blessed with.
Also I tend to set my bikes up with a very upright riding position where the Swift I think, is really designed for a saddle significantly higher than the handlebar position.
Having a aged back I tend to prefer a saddle lower than bars or close to equal height to them.
This is how my Ogres Flyer is set up.

My Flyer is significantly more comfortable than both the Swift and B17 and I think I'll be sticking with it.
I like its aesthetic and am told its black painted springs are very slow to corrode (I live near the sea).

I am tempted though to add some bling by getting it some chrome springs but thats a story for another day - I'm finally in a financial position where I can afford to buy it a new set yearly so rust isnt such a determining factor in saddle choice anymore.
I sometimes still am torn when I see the occasional B73 on a bike with its 3 chrome springs and what for me was a very comfy saddle.
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Old 07-03-13, 12:07 PM
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Yes, bolts/nuts and spring assembly I believe. I wish I could remember better but as I said I did it very hastily and it was over a year ago. Give it a try and let us know how it goes.

I hear you on the weight issue. I am feeling sort of torn about the flyer. If it doesn't deliver comfort wise in the next thousand miles or so I might go back to the stock LHT saddle or start trying other padded inexpensive non-sprung saddles that might ironically be better or at least good enough. The other issue with the flyer is that I bought it before I did my bike fit and I ended up with the saddle slightly higher than the bars. I still feel like I am benefiting from the springs but all this talk about sprung saddles being for upright riding positions has got me wondering. Time will tell. Best of luck dialing everything in and getting the weight:comfort ratio that works for you.

Originally Posted by rifraf
Do you mean where bolts/nuts are?


I started with a Brooks B73.
I loved everything about it except for its weight (1.1kg) and the chrome springs outpacing my attempts to staunch the advance of corrosion. My saddle was comfort personified.

An issue with my Moulton APB I was facing was excessive weight.
I attempted and succeeded to shed a lot of this by swapping out heavier parts including my Sturmey Archer front Dynohub (also 1.1kg) for an Sondelux(390grams) and Brooks B73 (1.1kg) for a Brooks Swift Ti (390grams).

I gained a credible weight saving but at the expense of comfort.
I just couldnt make the Swift work for my backside and it would become the equivalent of a medieval torture device anything after 30 kilometers.
I toured on it for my across Australia tour but it never really improved although my mileages did.

I not long ago swapped the Swift for a B17 Special to my rears relief although its not perfect it is a lot easier on the butt than the Swift.
The Swift tends to suit folk with narrower sit bones than I guess I've been blessed with.
Also I tend to set my bikes up with a very upright riding position where the Swift I think, is really designed for a saddle significantly higher than the handlebar position.
Having a aged back I tend to prefer a saddle lower than bars or close to equal height to them.
This is how my Ogres Flyer is set up.

My Flyer is significantly more comfortable than both the Swift and B17 and I think I'll be sticking with it.
I like its aesthetic and am told its black painted springs are very slow to corrode (I live near the sea).

I am tempted though to add some bling by getting it some chrome springs but thats a story for another day - I'm finally in a financial position where I can afford to buy it a new set yearly so rust isnt such a determining factor in saddle choice anymore.
I sometimes still am torn when I see the occasional B73 on a bike with its 3 chrome springs and what for me was a very comfy saddle.
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Old 07-03-13, 02:27 PM
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Lube points for noise - the front of the saddle has some metal on metal movement in a joint that functions like a hinge. There is a lower frame with the rails that the seatpost grips onto and an upper frame that holds the leather in place. As you ride the upper and lower frames shift position relative to each other, where they meet in the front is where the noise comes from. I use brooks proofhide as my lube, if I accidentally got it on the leather it will cause no damage.
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