Practice! Spinning relatively easily up a steep hill at 3 MPH still beats the heck out of walking:)

I blued the crank and bolts when I installed mine,they hit on my crank and chainring bolts......Just need to check I guess.

Is a little light contact there a serious problem? I don't know, but I'd think it would be undetectable while riding and not substantially reduce the life of the chain or the rings.

I guess it depends on just how much contact there is.

If it's rubbing,you don't HAVE to do anything,the problem will fix itself.

On mine,the roller didn't even touch the bottom of the gear.I had to take an 1/8" off the crank post and turn the bolts down about .030 for the roller to bottom out.

That's on an Alivio crank....Maybe better cranks have a smaller post.

You should say "for you". What works for you doesn't work for everyone else.

Also getting a 21" gear on a double would be impossible. A 26 tooth chainwheel with a 34 tooth cog gives a 21" gear. No doubles, to my knowledge, use an inner ring of 26 teeth. If you used a typical compact double with a 34 tooth inner ring, you'd have to use a 42 tooth cog on the cassette to get a 21" gear. That introduces more problems than a triple crank ever will.

only old TA cyclotourists *, and the WI VBC maybe the Compass bike** reproduction of a French classic.

companion on a Cal coast tour '85, had a * 50 28t TA double .. ** Compass Bicycles: Cranks

TA chainrings

Another exception would be for those of us who use a triple with the outer ring removed as a double.

VO sells some set up that way , Now,

back in the 80s I rigged up some Campag and Gippiemme triple parts its a 144 86 bcd crank

I got it as a 36 3rd ring used a <C> 52t GS in the center and
filling the outer spot, a <C> 222 diameter Cross guard ring .

is the contact you guys are talking about because the 20 ring is too close to the middle chainring? Last summer when I changed my 30t to a 26t and had to put some washers between the crank and the 26t so the chain wouldnt hit the bolts past a certain point of chain position at the rear. Moving the 26t out just that 1mm or so fixed the problem.
If i recall, past about mid cassette, the chain began rubbing stuff, the 1mm ish washers werent too thick that the chain could go between the 26t and 39t, but far enough to cure the clearance prob that come with a given chainline past mid cassette.

The 4 mounting boss' on the crank and chainring bolts for the granny gear.

If the boss or chainring bolts are too big,the side plates on the chain hit them before the roller on the chain bottoms on the gear.

The chain doesn't sit down on the gear all the way.

Oh OK right, get it now. So I guess it depends on the shape/design of the mounting bosses and the placement and or bulkiness of the bolts. Thanks.

It is so easy to change gearing, that would be among the least of my concerns. Bike fit and geometry trumps all.

I confess I don't buy bikes; I buy frames and assemble things myself. My last bike was a Salsa Vaya. I put a 20-32-42 crank (94-58) and originally put it together as a 12-32 8 spd. That gave me a nice range 1- to 95 inch range. I then discovered the 12-36 9 spd and converted it to 9. Now I use the 32-36 combination quite a bit (24 in.) but hardly have a need to use the 20 ring, so I suspect I could easily live with the more common 22-32-42 cranks.

can get very close with this and a 34t up front....

Oneup Components 42-tooth Cog for Ten-Speed Cassettes - Reviewed - Pinkbike

but I think a triple is the better option lol

i can't imagine WHY you are all going on and on about this. i thought i settled the issue the other day in my original post (23) . :lol:

Like I said in my original post, that introduces more problems than a triple would ever cause. It leaves a big hole in the middle of the cassette (not a huge problem) and derailer set up is going to be finicky. You can get the same gear range with a triple without all the hassles.

You are a legend in your own mind.

Your problem may indeed by due to the crank. I have the 20 tooth ring on 3 cranks...a Race Face Deus, Race Face Turbine (old model not the newer external bearing) and Shimano XTR. My chain is fully engaged and doesn't rub.

Preaching to the Choir. ... I prefer a bit tighter cassette... my 11-34 has some big gaps in it on the road... on the trail it's not an issue... planning to move to th 11-28 on my touring bike... With the 11-34 I never drop to the 22t up front... I'd rather the occasional granny gear use with the tighter gearing out back

Going back to the original question, not only are production bikes not geared low enough, they're always geared too high. 127 gear inches? That's insane for a tour. I'm with Donalson, it's much nicer to have a more compact range. For a touring bike I think 16-90 is ideal but I'd take gears off the top end before the low end.

My off road touring bike has a conventional mountain bike triple 16-104 (26in wheels).

No one has to leave it as it comes out of the box ,
though the shops will put it on the sales Floor as they get it.

want different? Ask at the place you get your bikes , takeoffs and Upgrades can be done.