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Bottles in third undercarriage water bottle cage are hitting my front wheel - help!

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Bottles in third undercarriage water bottle cage are hitting my front wheel - help!

Old 03-18-14, 03:19 PM
  #1  
suburbanbeat
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Bottles in third undercarriage water bottle cage are hitting my front wheel - help!

Hi everyone. So, I just got a third bottle cage to go underneath my downtube, as I'll be doing a cross-country bike trip this summer and will need all of the water storage I can get. Thing is, when I put a bottle in it, my front wheel hits the top of it. I suppose I could find a shorter water bottle, but does anyone know of any water bottle cages that would sit "lower"? Those are the only logical solutions that I can see! Here is a picture for reference.

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Old 03-18-14, 03:23 PM
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Two solutions that I can think of.

1. Smaller bottle
2. Flip the holder upside down

Option two will certainly launch your bottle, but you can put a larger bottle in there at least!
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Old 03-18-14, 03:26 PM
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I ran into the same problem with my fenders when I tried to put the fuel can in the bottom rack. I tightened the lid carefully, put it in a pannier, and took the third cage off.
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Old 03-18-14, 03:33 PM
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Where you put a too long of a a waterbottle in , is where I typically stowed my MSR Fuel Bottle ,
for my stove.

but your bosses seem a lot higher on the under side of the down tube, than mine were,
so consider a strip of stainless steel , with 4 holes in it, and then you can shift the place where the cage is,
lower than the existing holes allow.

and, critiquing the build, you need to use the hoop over the front wheel with that rack.

the mid fork boss bolt can go in one of those slots at the back .

I'd add a spacer behind it to have room to hang the bag hooks over the top edge.

Last edited by fietsbob; 03-18-14 at 03:42 PM.
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Old 03-18-14, 03:34 PM
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In that cage, smaller bottle. Other bottles can be stored elsewhere on the bike or in your bags. There are tons of options.
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Old 03-18-14, 03:52 PM
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Wish I could remember where I saw it (but somewhere on this forum is a good bet). There was a kit where you screwed mounting points into your bosses, and then attached loops to your bottle. The loops attached to the mounting points. It not as versatile as a standard cage, and you end up with only one bottle that can go down below, but when I saw that I thought it might help with this very situation because you could position those loops closer to the top of the bottle, which would leave more clearance for the tire. You could also use a lot of non-standard water bottles, which might be desirable.

Not something I've tried, but maybe someone will remember what I'm talking about and link to it.
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Old 03-18-14, 04:01 PM
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I put a cage in that location on my LHT. It fit, until I added fenders last summer. Then no. I ended up storing the additional water in my panniers. Actually, the situations where I needed additional water storage, were also warm/hot weather situations. The 3rd bottle was still wet when I needed it, but also contained warm/hot water. So the pannier (insulated with pack) was a better location anyway. I just used a regular over-the-counter bottle of water for the 3rd (4th, 5th..) bottle, with a secure cap.
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Old 03-18-14, 04:43 PM
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A regular sized water bottle didn't fit on my rig either. A smaller water bottle fit or a 16oz gatorade bottle. My current tourer doesn't have the mounts and I hardly miss it. In the past I also used the mount for my fuel bottle.

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Old 03-18-14, 04:55 PM
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You need to build an extension plate. I had the same issue with both my Fargo and my Cassenroll. Go to Lowes or Hdepot and buy some 3/4 inch aluminum stock. Measure how much you need to move the bottle holder down. Fasten the plate to the bike with the top frame hole use the 2nd/lower hole for both the plate and the top bottle mount hole. The last hole on the holder can be attached with a short hex head threaded into the alum or a wire tie. I have lowered both mine about 1.5 inches a large bottle clears the fenders. I admit I made one or 2 pro types before I got it right. But the stock comes in 3 ft lengths so you have plenty to experiment with. I can take a picture of the plate on the Cassenroll and post later.
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Old 03-18-14, 05:03 PM
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the stuff in the bins at the LBS, extras left over from rack mounting ,

the stainless strips with the long slot in it may do the trick, too.
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Old 03-18-14, 05:38 PM
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Mine doesn't work with fenders either. My solution to not having the third bottle is to put even larger bottles in the other two cages. One-liter soda bottles will fit and some are available with squirt tops. They're lighter, too. As a bonus, you can probably find them free along the roadside on your next ride. I've seen someone use taller 1.5 liter bottles, but I don't need that much. Two liters plus a usually empty 2 liter platypus in the pack is enough for most of my rides.
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Old 03-18-14, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Vintage_Cyclist View Post
In that cage, smaller bottle. Other bottles can be stored elsewhere on the bike or in your bags. There are tons of options.
+1

We use Platypus bladders to carry extra water in our panniers when needed. They are light, and keep the water cooler than a third bottle. We have crossed the country with only two bottles on a bike. We carried extra water and electrolyte replacement drinks in our panniers.

I do sometimes carry a 22 oz. fuel bottle in the 3rd cage. I'd rather carry it there than inside a pannier.
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Old 03-18-14, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
Where you put a too long of a a waterbottle in , is where I typically stowed my MSR Fuel Bottle ,
for my stove.

but your bosses seem a lot higher on the under side of the down tube, than mine were,
so consider a strip of stainless steel , with 4 holes in it, and then you can shift the place where the cage is,
lower than the existing holes allow.

and, critiquing the build, you need to use the hoop over the front wheel with that rack.

the mid fork boss bolt can go in one of those slots at the back .

I'd add a spacer behind it to have room to hang the bag hooks over the top edge.
Hi, I'm just quickly responding to your comment about my front rack. I understand that it is supposed to include the "V-stay" loop thing that goes over the front wheel. But why? I only ask because I am literally about to lose my mind trying to set up the rack properly with the V-stay. Ugh. So, I really can't just use the two parts of the frame on the side?
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Old 03-18-14, 08:22 PM
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Sold a few in bike shops, over the past 30 years used them myself

the sheet metal is not that strong and that is all you are bolting to
and you will have 2 wobbly masses hanging off a thin piece of sheet aluminum perhaps going into your wheel

that hole you used is actually there , used as a place for a locking pin to pass thru the hook
on Tailwinds panniers from that era ,,

Its not to be confused with a separate blackburn CL-1 https://www.evanscycles.com/products/...-rack-ec005646
with a 8mm rod brace to the back side
of a non threaded tube brazed straight thru the fork blade .

.
then there are 3 strut mounts to support the load .. This is Tubus one with that type of mounting in mind
Tubus Duo Front Lowrider Bicycle Bike Rack

you have this one the FL-1 Amazon.com: Blackburn FL-1 Standard Low-Rider Bicycle Rack (Black): Sports & Outdoors

Note the way its assembled for the picture.

It's your neck on the line, I just thought you should know..


the small hole at the very front is where the bolt that grips the P CLIP around the stabilizing hoop goes
with its bottom end on the same bolt into the dropout eyelet.

if you want a better fork blade center boss mount
Fabricate some reinforcing to use both holes , perhaps?
the slots thats are there to use the U bolt supplied with the rack

add a piece of 1/8" thick by 3/4 wise aluminum and a space standoff , behind the rear top end
drill a couple holes in the flat bar 1 for the rear bolt 2nd to firmly support the rear thru the rest of that slot if you wish

then the back will be just as wide as the front where the hoop spreads and supports the front.

a lot of people dont read the instructions .. the U bolts, each, have 6 nuts on it
1 pair holds the flat piece snug against the fork .

the acorn nuts are on the outside,
and the other 2 nuts are turned outward to press against the bback side of the slots thru the mounting strip.
the act of tightening the backing nuts tightens the acorn nuts .. just hold them so they dont unscrew

Last edited by fietsbob; 03-18-14 at 08:50 PM.
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Old 03-18-14, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by suburbanbeat View Post
Hi, I'm just quickly responding to your comment about my front rack. I understand that it is supposed to include the "V-stay" loop thing that goes over the front wheel. But why? I only ask because I am literally about to lose my mind trying to set up the rack properly with the V-stay. Ugh. So, I really can't just use the two parts of the frame on the side?

I ran into issues mounting that same type of rack (mine is a nashar that I got for $8)... you don't want to run it without the V portion because it isn't designed for that, you run the risk of it bending and swinging into the spokes, not good.... personally because of the way the dropouts sit I couldn't figure out how to get it to work with my fenders and everything else, it also would have limited my tire size... after some reading blackburn says you can use the mtf1 (high rack) along with the low rider... so my solution was to mount the V section to the front dropout holes like using the second rack would do, this also gave me the clerance I needed for my 38c tires... I may at some point pick up a MTF1 making a cheap/ghetto high/low setup


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Old 03-18-14, 08:50 PM
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for the low mount... others have mentioned brackets, you might be able to fit a topeak XL (fits up to a 1.5l soda/water bottle), they sit the bottle a bit lower then most bottle mounts.

but as others have pointed out, you have plenty of other options for where you can put water, this is a friends bike, he has the same setup on his tour bike (plus two mounted to his front rack if I recall right)
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Old 03-18-14, 09:30 PM
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I think there must be bottle cages that mount lower relative to the bosses. The one on the bike looks like it holds the bottle as far up relative to the bosses as possible
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Old 03-18-14, 09:37 PM
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Use a ToPeak XL cage in the triangle for 1.5liter bottle and use that bottom position for anything that will fit.
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Old 03-18-14, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by LeeG View Post
Use a ToPeak XL cage in the triangle for 1.5liter bottle and use that bottom position for anything that will fit.
that has been my plan... but if you like to switch back and forth between water and some other sort of drink (Gatorade or whatever) it makes it difficult :-/... but in the end thats the best way to carry the most water if you really want to carry it all on the frame
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Old 03-18-14, 11:13 PM
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Minoura sells a mount that fits on handlebar to mount water bottle cage.
Here's photo of ours on our tandem. Notice plastic tube for easy sipping so you don't have to remove bottle to drink. Been using similar system like that since the 1970s.
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Old 03-18-14, 11:21 PM
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I've also seen this a few times online... seems like a neat idea

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Old 03-18-14, 11:27 PM
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I would try using the bottom screw and a hose clamp as close to the BB as possible.
I used 2 hose clamps on my POS China bike.
I've also tried a HB clamp dohickie and it was a total FAIL. Unstable and weak.
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Old 03-19-14, 07:32 AM
  #23  
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That is a common problem on LHT, they put the screws too high up on the downtube. I did not know that the Novara brand cycles also have this problem.

I use an old VeloCage on my LHT. Velocity used to make an aluminum cage that could be shifted up and down a bit, but it only got me maybe an extra 3/4 of an inch of bottle height. I gave up and decided to just use a smaller bottle. I have not seen any of these for sale for maybe 5 years.

Originally Posted by egear View Post
You need to build an extension plate. I had the same issue with both my Fargo and my Cassenroll. Go to Lowes or Hdepot and buy some 3/4 inch aluminum stock. Measure how much you need to move the bottle holder down. Fasten the plate to the bike with the top frame hole use the 2nd/lower hole for both the plate and the top bottle mount hole. The last hole on the holder can be attached with a short hex head threaded into the alum or a wire tie. I have lowered both mine about 1.5 inches a large bottle clears the fenders. I admit I made one or 2 pro types before I got it right. But the stock comes in 3 ft lengths so you have plenty to experiment with. I can take a picture of the plate on the Cassenroll and post later.
I have considered doing this with some steel strapping which I have some of. I would feel better about using steel than Aluminum, most of the weight of the bottle hangs on only the upper bolt and I would trust the threading in steel strapping to hold up better than in Aluminum, but that also depends on how thick the strapping is.
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Old 03-19-14, 07:32 AM
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Bottle Cage Adapter - New MTB / road bike parts - Mount Skidmore

Something like this might work. As cheap as I am, I'd probably make my own. On my front lowrider rack (I have the same one) I had to drill another mounting hole above the U-bolt slots on the rack to get my rack level and bolted to the midfork attachment point.
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Old 03-19-14, 08:02 AM
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There is a review and discussion of the adaptor that RhinoDave posted above at Crazyguy. Also a coupon code...

Bicycle Touring: Review: Water bottle cages: #1: "Bottle Cage Adaptor by Mount Skidmore", posted by Chris White on Fri 28 Feb 2014 04:25 (US/Pacific)
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