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Advice on new handlebar, here's my current setup.

Old 03-27-14, 10:32 PM
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Advice on new handlebar, here's my current setup.

So in September I rode the Pacific Coast Route and had an unbelievable time. I was never 100% satisfied with my setup during the tour however, and starting to tinker with ideas of another one, am wondering what I could do differently with my handlebar setup. Here's my issue and what I'm thinking of doing to fix it:

- I am 6'3" with long legs on a 60cm Trek 520.
- I have a 40 degree rise 120 mm length stem on the bike.
- With my seat set correctly, I still have significant drop from seat to bar.

I'm wondering about changing the handlebar to something with a big sweep back, like a moustache bar, or one of the butterfly touring bars. This would of course require a change of shifters and brakes. Any other ideas or options for bringing the handlebar back so my reach isn't as far? Appreciate the feedback.



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Old 03-27-14, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by davidwh
...what I'm thinking of doing to fix it...
Is'nt this what its all about - Switching out - Changing up - Just a little tweak here and there - It never ends - I love it...

I too have always thought some long sweep moustach bars would give me both a long and short reach - I'm not sure how I would set up the brakes... Interesting...
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Old 03-27-14, 11:07 PM
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The main thing I'm looking for is to maintain the same height of the handlebar, but finding a bar that brings my reach back the most possible. I'm thinking I could incorporate Paul thumbies for the bar end shifters if need be.
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Old 03-28-14, 05:46 AM
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Here's my rig with Nitto Northroads and road levers. The bars have a rise, plus the sweep-back puts me quite upright.

I'm 5'11 on a 54 LHT, so YMMV.

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Old 03-28-14, 09:45 AM
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Get a replacement 520 fork from your Trek dealer and buy more spacers so you leave it's steerer un cut.

If you feel its too high , transfer a spacer to above the bar's stem .. , rather than saw any off..



FWIW with Trekking bars , what's comfortable for me is they're at equal or a bit higher than the saddle ..
a 2nd stem holds the Bar Bag mount ..

I use Magura's HS 33 hydraulic rim brakes .. in place of V brakes .. smooth as butter ..
but only compatible with 22.2 bars which Trekking bars are ..

Last edited by fietsbob; 03-28-14 at 09:49 AM.
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Old 03-28-14, 10:10 AM
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here's a couple of ideas:

-they are kinda goofy looking, but there are those extender thingees that attach to the fork steerer top to get your bars up higher, I know they come in diff lengths, are a bit heavy and look kludgey but that would help with getting the bars up-seeing that your stem is pretty steep as it is, so who knows if a steeper longer stem exists. (be cheaper than buying a new fork with a longer steerer as per fiets good suggestion)

like this: Amazon.com: Dimension Steerer Extender 1" Black Threadless Adds 2 to 3-1/4": Sports & Outdoors

-to help with reach, saddle to bars distance, if you like drop bars, there are drop bars that have a much shorter distance from the flats to the curved part, therefore bringing the hoods closer to you just because there is less "reach" in the bar dimensions, if you follow.
I remember looking at some different bars and there can easily be 2cm or more diff between bars, I think they might be called "compact" bars, but Im not sure. Dont thnk they have to be expensive either, but look into diff bar dimensions, measure yours from mid pt of the flats to the end of the curved part and see if the difference would be enough to make a diff for you.
At least you could keep all the same brake levers, shifters etc.
(a few years ago we had a bike lent to us, and the distance from seat to bars was a bit too long for my wife, I then noticed that compared to my drop bar bike, the bars on this lent bike (a small bike) were a good 2cms longer in "reach" compared to my 54cm drop bar bike handlebars, so I looked into finding some inexpensive new bars similar in dimension to my bars, knowing it would bring the hoods a good 2cm closer to her riding position right away, even without changing to a shorter stem (which was pretty darn short as is anyway). In the end, we found a good deal on a new bike that the frame was very small and fitted her well, so didnt keep the lent bike.

heres a link I found that the fellow describes his search for a drop bar with shorter "reach", scroll down to bar talk part geometry etc

https://handsonbike.blogspot.ca/2014/...-fsa-drop.html

he says a reach of 80mm is perhaps the shortest you can find, dont know if that is the case, but you could measure yours to see. I think measurements are always middle to middle", meaning mid of bar to mid of bar. Anyway, something to read and reference, or compare to yours.

ps, be very wary of moving your seat forward to get closer to bars, you can get into bad territory for it not being good for your knees. Too forward and the angle of your knee can be too much and cause issues. Mentioining this because sometimes you see bikes that people have pushed the seat all the way forward to get closer to bars, it aint a good idea.

Last edited by djb; 03-28-14 at 10:18 AM.
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Old 03-28-14, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
Get a replacement 520 fork from your Trek dealer and buy more spacers so you leave it's steerer un cut.

If you feel its too high , transfer a spacer to above the bar's stem .. , rather than saw any off..


at looking at your bike this honestly was my first thought... with the steel steerer tube you aren't in any danger of running a HUGE amount of spacers, it sounds like we're similar builds, i'm 6'3 or 6'4 depending on the day and who measures but a significant portion of that is my legs (also makes it difficult finding a comfortable car)... when I built my Surly Trucker I didn't even cut the steerer tube (350mm) on my 61cm frame

for bar I did go with an "odd" bar setup but only because it's what I had (stole all the parts from my MTB)... I do like that it has a lot of rear and forward movement hand positions but the more time I spend on my road bike the more I prefer the traditional drops, if I could get my drop bar up another inch or so it would be just great so I may even change the current bars on my bike at some point

but anyway here mine is

bit older pic but shows the stack of the steerer, this was before i'd built the road bike so it was setup as my road bike...
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Old 03-28-14, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by davidwh
The main thing I'm looking for is to maintain the same height of the handlebar, but finding a bar that brings my reach back the most possible. I'm thinking I could incorporate Paul thumbies for the bar end shifters if need be.
Not familiar with your bike, so I'm not sure what type of steerer and stem you currently have. Maybe look for a steerer extension? Here's one for 1" threadless stems and another for 1 1/8" stems. Ideally, if you tried one of these gizmos and liked the additional height, you'd follow fietsbob's suggestion and get a fork with an uncut steerer tube and cut it to the appropriate length at some point. In the meantime, I'd probably avoid using the handlebar bag (or at least limit the amount of weight it carries).
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Old 03-28-14, 10:25 AM
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in a situation where I could not just buy a new fork to regain the steerer tube length cut off
in a factory formula assembly , I bought one of these : BHP-21 - Headset parts - BBB

it is hidden within the spacer stack .. & I did get to add the 2nd stem for my bar bag.

something not do-able with an external stem raiser..

though I imagined the 2 wedge plugs of those Zoom-Satori brand ones,

if they were both custom machined a bit longer a bar bag mount can fit them too .

OP shows a touring rig so the bar bag is usually part of those setups ,
the camera and snacks handy at all times ..

2nd stem bar bag mount can be lower on the steerer than the bar itself ,
and keep it's CofG down..

Last edited by fietsbob; 03-28-14 at 10:35 AM.
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Old 03-28-14, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by sstorkel
In the meantime, I'd probably avoid using the handlebar bag (or at least limit the amount of weight it carries).
very good point, makes sense that added weight over the bars would be leveraging a lot on the extender.

as you want to mostly bring the bars back towards you, perhaps a more compact drop bar would be enough, and/or with combination of the shortest steerer extension possible (considering you use a handlebar bag and the weight/leverage aspect brought up by stork)
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Old 03-28-14, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by sstorkel
Not familiar with your bike, so I'm not sure what type of steerer and stem you currently have. Maybe look for a steerer extension? Here's one for 1" threadless stems and another for 1 1/8" stems. Ideally, if you tried one of these gizmos and liked the additional height, you'd follow fietsbob's suggestion and get a fork with an uncut steerer tube and cut it to the appropriate length at some point. In the meantime, I'd probably avoid using the handlebar bag (or at least limit the amount of weight it carries).

from a quick look at the pic its threadless and i'd go out on a limb and say 1 1/8 as 1" threadless never took off ... the second link you posted would be a good option to try out... will add almost 3" of height to the steerer tube and get those bars both further up and further back... as a big guy I tend to forget about these things, they are probably fine and safe but they make me a bit nervous... but as an interm budget solution for testing they are a logical way to go.

if you use this tool you can see what sort if differences moving the stem around will make for your reach vs the height Stem Chart
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Old 03-28-14, 10:30 AM
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fiets, which one of these extenders do you think would be the strongest re having the handlebar bag use?
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Old 03-28-14, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by donalson
if you use this tool you can see what sort if differences moving the stem around will make for your reach vs the height Stem Chart
that is very cool, thanks.
Dont know if its accurate, but would be very neat to try it out to confirm, and a very very neat resource for figuring the changes.
thanks again, will bookmark that.
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Old 03-28-14, 10:56 AM
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here is my bike setup circa 08 with the BBB extender in use WB Bicycle Gallery: Robert Clark's Koga Miyata WTR

the steerer height is back to .3M steerer which is common for new forks

strongest ? you could buy one of these Various Manufacturers Stem Raiser For 1 1/8" Inch Quill Stems (Threaded Headset) - Harris Cyclery bicycle shop - West Newton, Massachusetts it's Steel.. [most bike distributors have them so a local buy is practical]

then use a compression cap like this Problem Solvers 1 1/8" Carbon Fork Plug - Harris Cyclery bicycle shop - West Newton, Massachusetts
instead of a star nut, thus making the quill bolt head accessible, later. [PS a QBP brand also something to get at your LBS]

I've been OK with the BBB piece .. its a fairly thick Aluminum quill piece..
the US distribution has changed since then not sure if they got a new one contracted..

Mechanically, the clever bit is the quill bolt . once the wedge is tight, the 6mm hex is internally threaded 6mm
so the top cap bolt screws into it , for the headset bearing preload
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Old 03-28-14, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by djb
that is very cool, thanks.
Dont know if its accurate, but would be very neat to try it out to confirm, and a very very neat resource for figuring the changes.
thanks again, will bookmark that.
I've been using it for years, as long as you input the data correctly it'll come out correct... makes deciding on a stem a bit easier
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Old 03-28-14, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by donalson
I've been using it for years, as long as you input the data correctly it'll come out correct... makes deciding on a stem a bit easier
you'll laugh, but using it I just figured out that the "angle" of a stem is referring to the angle compared to if it is 90 degrees to the the part of the stem that slides into the steerer part, ie if the angle was 180, it would be sticking straight up. The -17 degrees of the "blue" stem in the chart is 17 degrees below a 90 degree angle......I hadnt cottoned onto this in the past.

I wish I had had this in the past when mucking about with different stems and eyeballing changes, returning stems to stores cuz it didnt get the effect I wanted.....
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Old 03-28-14, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by djb
you'll laugh, but using it I just figured out that the "angle" of a stem is referring to the angle compared to if it is 90 degrees to the the part of the stem that slides into the steerer part, ie if the angle was 180, it would be sticking straight up. The -17 degrees of the "blue" stem in the chart is 17 degrees below a 90 degree angle......I hadnt cottoned onto this in the past.

I wish I had had this in the past when mucking about with different stems and eyeballing changes, returning stems to stores cuz it didnt get the effect I wanted.....
the real problem is that some stems get the angle measurement from a different point... makes figuring out the actual angle of the stem a bit of a PITA :-/ a tool like the calculator makes it a bit easier to understand... but I wish companies would have a standardized measuring system... but we all know that won't happen

also as you mentioned the -17 stem puts it flat relative to the seat tube on a traditional flat top tube bike... it's the standard quill stem shape/angle
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Old 03-28-14, 12:08 PM
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Get a new FRAME. Prolly 64cm.
Both of you.
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Old 03-28-14, 12:16 PM
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re the angles, I have a Specialized Tricross, and the stem is this Spec. stem that you can slightly change the angle by taking it apart and there is a internal "angled" part shim thing that changes the actual angle of the stem. On it is written 8degrees and -16, so now I get the numbers. Often at the end of a season I change it to the lower position, which is a bit faster simply by having my chest further down, just for the fun of it. I will now get out a protractor or whatever it is and try to measure the angle in relation to a 90 degree angle to see if the 8 and -16 are degrees up and below a hypothetical 90 degree angle of the vertical vs horizontal parts of the stem.

in the stem calculator, if I put 0 degrees in the blue stem setting, it certainly appears to become a 90 degree angle in relation to the vertical part of the steerer.
will be neat to see in mm the changes of my two position stem, I've always just tried to eyeball the diff but was never very exact in recording the changes, thought of taking a tripod fixed photo before and after, but never got around to it because I knew I would have to secure the bike with no movement to really have an accurate comparison overlaying two photos.

this is what I have, came with the 8 and -16 shim

SPECIALIZED | How do I use my Specialized adjustable s...

it appears that it can either have a 28 or 20 degree position, as I said, I should try to figure out if these numbers are from a "0" of a 90 degree angle "baseline". (if you click on the "visual diagram" part, it shows a somewhat convuluted thing about "adding 12degrees to the number on the shim" so 16+12=28 degrees.....

ps, I just put compared 28 vs 20 degrees, keeping the other parameters the same, and the lower angle appears to have 9mm more reach, and 10mm lower than the higher angle. Neat to actually see some numbers and to reflect on how these changes feel, as I have done this a few times and can feel the difference, even if it is only a cm or so each way, lower and further out.

this is interesting for me, as the higher position for me, on this frame, with these bars, and with the saddle to bar drop I have(maybe 4cm-ish), is a very comfortable drop bar position, I can ride it all day , day after day and not really have issues with my wrists, neck, shoulders--so its a baseline for me that I would want to use as a reference for any other bike setup
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Old 03-28-14, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by GamblerGORD53
Get a new FRAME. Prolly 64cm.
Both of you.
as it stands the 62cm frame (sorry I think I said 61cm before) is a little on the long side @ 61cm ETT vs the 60cm ETT I like on my road bikes... just part of a disproportionate leg to torso height along with poor flexability...

my road bike is a 25.5" vintage trek so it's about 64cm but it's got that nice 598mm top tube that works for me ;-) as long as I have a tall stem to get the bars up to a reasonable height
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Old 03-29-14, 02:14 AM
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I used a On-One Midge bar with a shallow drop and a downhill short stem to get my bars closer to me. I did use a lot of spacers and only cut about 1" off the steer tube.
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Old 03-29-14, 03:33 AM
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davidwh, I would first try an extender. This will decrease both reach and drop the more the handlebar is raised.

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Old 03-29-14, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by djb
this is what I have, came with the 8 and -16 shim
It's too bad your LBS didn't give you the other shims that come with their stems. If you buy a stem separately, they typically come with two or three different shims.

it appears that it can either have a 28 or 20 degree position, as I said, I should try to figure out if these numbers are from a "0" of a 90 degree angle "baseline".
They are not. The Specialized stems do not take the angle of the head tube into account. So if, for example, your head tube has an angle of 73 degrees, you need to install a stem with a -17-degree angle to have the stem perpendicular to the ground. Their online Instruction Guide has good illustrations of the way it works. Just remember that the 0-degree line means: perpendicular to the head tube.
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Old 03-29-14, 10:10 AM
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i'm pretty sure thats what he was saying by the 90*... in that he discovered it meant it was 90* from the headtube... plus or minus the degrees
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Old 03-29-14, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
Get a replacement 520 fork from your Trek dealer and buy more spacers so you leave it's steerer un cut.

If you feel its too high , transfer a spacer to above the bar's stem .. , rather than saw any off
That is what I did when I got my touring bike, I told the shop not to cut off any of the steer tube, that way I could dial in the handle bar height. Also as I age, I may want to start raising the bars for more comfort.
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