Pannier Geekiness
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Pannier Geekiness
If everyone has a different definition of the perfect panniers, why not create your own? Post your pannier projects, past or present. As this touring season warms up, I'll be creating my own panniers, and sharing my progress throughout. There are several sources of information about making your own storage system. To get the juices flowing, here are some great resources on a variety of possibilities.
Ken Kifer provides an excellent primer of design considerations for cloth bags. His site walks through several generations of flaws and improvements, and offers a shorter learning curve for any designer. Yours can be very generic, or they can be made to fit your favorite equipment load.
Steven Pav focuses on the more technical aspects of design and the process of sewing. Presented as a scholarly paper, this offering goes into much detail about the actual constuction once the design is completed.
If sewing is not your thing, there are many other options.
Paul Woloshanky used Army surplus packs to create rough and ready storage. These packs can be very quickly prepared for bike touring by adding a back stiffener and some hooks. Most Army surplus bags are made of cotton (canvas) but are said to be quite water resistant. The downside is that they are heavy when dry and very heavy when wet.
Our own Sebastain Toney made a storage system similar to CobbWorks' Polyethylene bucket design. Any rectangular plastic bucket can become a waterproof pannier just by adding some hooks to attach it to your bike. These buckets protect their contents from squishing, but lack frills. They are multifunctioned, becoming a camp chair or stepstool at need. These are the cheapest and easiest panniers to make, as suitable buckets can be freely found anywhere.
Ken Kifer provides an excellent primer of design considerations for cloth bags. His site walks through several generations of flaws and improvements, and offers a shorter learning curve for any designer. Yours can be very generic, or they can be made to fit your favorite equipment load.
Steven Pav focuses on the more technical aspects of design and the process of sewing. Presented as a scholarly paper, this offering goes into much detail about the actual constuction once the design is completed.
If sewing is not your thing, there are many other options.
Paul Woloshanky used Army surplus packs to create rough and ready storage. These packs can be very quickly prepared for bike touring by adding a back stiffener and some hooks. Most Army surplus bags are made of cotton (canvas) but are said to be quite water resistant. The downside is that they are heavy when dry and very heavy when wet.
Our own Sebastain Toney made a storage system similar to CobbWorks' Polyethylene bucket design. Any rectangular plastic bucket can become a waterproof pannier just by adding some hooks to attach it to your bike. These buckets protect their contents from squishing, but lack frills. They are multifunctioned, becoming a camp chair or stepstool at need. These are the cheapest and easiest panniers to make, as suitable buckets can be freely found anywhere.
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Also, Jakubs Amazing Bucket Bike
Also, Backpacking.net's Make Gear Page.
If you really want to sew your own bags out of Cordura, check out this page: It's a webpage devoted to people who make their own backpacks, hiking gear, tents, stoves, homemade LED lights. It'll give you some ideas and let you know what's possible.
Also, Backpacking.net's Make Gear Page.
If you really want to sew your own bags out of Cordura, check out this page: It's a webpage devoted to people who make their own backpacks, hiking gear, tents, stoves, homemade LED lights. It'll give you some ideas and let you know what's possible.
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Thanks for the tips and ideas. Its good to remember that there are ways of getting functional panniers and gear other than just clicking and buying
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I am not yet set on my path. I may create some bags based on an Army pack, or I may build a slightly smaller version of the Buckets Of Doom. I may do both! Either way I go, I need to decide how to attach it to the bike.
Ortlieb's attachments (QL1 and QL2 systems) get rave reviews. They prevent bouncing at the lower attachment point.
Arkel has a kit, which is cheaper and simple to install.
Does anyone have experience with these (or other) options?
Edit: BicycleTouring101 has a great article which goes into detail about the attachment systems of Arkel, Ortlieb and Vaude. According to the review, Ortliebs are extemely easy to mount and remove from racks, but are harder to set up. Arkels take more time to mount and remove, but are very easy to set up.
Ortlieb's attachments (QL1 and QL2 systems) get rave reviews. They prevent bouncing at the lower attachment point.
Arkel has a kit, which is cheaper and simple to install.
Does anyone have experience with these (or other) options?
Edit: BicycleTouring101 has a great article which goes into detail about the attachment systems of Arkel, Ortlieb and Vaude. According to the review, Ortliebs are extemely easy to mount and remove from racks, but are harder to set up. Arkels take more time to mount and remove, but are very easy to set up.
Last edited by Ceiliazul; 04-01-05 at 11:58 AM.
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The Buckets of Doom can be noisy on rough roads. The wire handle on the bucket is the culprit. On smooth roads it isn't problem.
If you can take off the handle, these panniers won't make any more noise than any other Arkel pannier. Make sure you line the inside/bottom with foam. That way your stuff won't be rattling around making noises.
P.S. The Buckets of Doom are getting impatient. They want out on the open road!
If you can take off the handle, these panniers won't make any more noise than any other Arkel pannier. Make sure you line the inside/bottom with foam. That way your stuff won't be rattling around making noises.
P.S. The Buckets of Doom are getting impatient. They want out on the open road!
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I've been using my Frostline panniers for about 20 years now. Wonder if they're still in business?
If you want it made right, make it yourself!
If you want it made right, make it yourself!
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Hear, hear, eubi. That's why I build my own computers: Water Cooled, Overvolted and Overclocked!
#8
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Polyester(Dacron) is bester[I'm sorry].
Nylon(non-aromatic polyamide) is broken down by UV quite quickly, polyester is quite resistant to UV. Both are very chemical resistant. They have very similar breaking strength, but PE hardly stretches (sometimes good) and Nylon will nearly double in length before it breaks (other times good, a bit like a bungee cord). Coatings can give Nylon moderate UV resistance but they ware off eventually).
I haven't looked up much on it quite yet but acrylic fabric like Sunbrella is supposed to be UV proof, like polyester.
Wax/oil soaked cotton/hemp is waterproof tough and UV proof. It is heavier though at 12-24oz per square yard for bag-luggage thickness, verses 6-11oz(400-1000denier packcloth) for nylon or polyester.
For compairson 1-2oz nylon is for sleeping bags, and light tents. 200d (3.5-4oz) nylon is for stuff sacks. 330d is light packcloth and for stuffsacks 430d(7oz) is standard tough hiking backpack cloth. 1050d (16oz) ballistic weave(a course thick weave) is for the burliest soft side luggage. 1000d oxford(a flatter standard weave) (11oz) is used on soft luggage.
Synthetics are generally measured in denier and natural fabrics in ounces per square yard. Denier is the weight/thickness of the thread used to weave the fabric.
I know a bit more about fabric if you all would like to know, I'm no bonified expert but I have done a bit of research.
Nylon(non-aromatic polyamide) is broken down by UV quite quickly, polyester is quite resistant to UV. Both are very chemical resistant. They have very similar breaking strength, but PE hardly stretches (sometimes good) and Nylon will nearly double in length before it breaks (other times good, a bit like a bungee cord). Coatings can give Nylon moderate UV resistance but they ware off eventually).
I haven't looked up much on it quite yet but acrylic fabric like Sunbrella is supposed to be UV proof, like polyester.
Wax/oil soaked cotton/hemp is waterproof tough and UV proof. It is heavier though at 12-24oz per square yard for bag-luggage thickness, verses 6-11oz(400-1000denier packcloth) for nylon or polyester.
For compairson 1-2oz nylon is for sleeping bags, and light tents. 200d (3.5-4oz) nylon is for stuff sacks. 330d is light packcloth and for stuffsacks 430d(7oz) is standard tough hiking backpack cloth. 1050d (16oz) ballistic weave(a course thick weave) is for the burliest soft side luggage. 1000d oxford(a flatter standard weave) (11oz) is used on soft luggage.
Synthetics are generally measured in denier and natural fabrics in ounces per square yard. Denier is the weight/thickness of the thread used to weave the fabric.
I know a bit more about fabric if you all would like to know, I'm no bonified expert but I have done a bit of research.
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So if you were gonna buy some fabric to make your own panniers (I've been looking into doing this for months) what would you go with?
D
D
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I make all my own gear and have a pair of pannier that I am very proud of. I plan on posting directions to the backpacking light webpage this summer after I'm done with this semester of school. So far my opinion is that saddle bag designs are very secure, but my next version will be attached with nylon webbing and a tri-glide (like a climbing harness). Eventually I might try the Arkel hooks. Althought I've never used or seen them, I like the Arkel hooks a lot. My design is a lightweight stuff sack with a gear sling holder. They are very lightweight and incredibly convenient since you can take the stuff sacks off but leave the pannier body attached to the bike. DougMT.... Pack cloth is pretty hard to go wrong with. I use it in all my backpacks for the bottoms and it holds up incredibly well.
Unfortunately compared to the variety of designs and directions of backpack, tents, sleeping bags and especially stoves, there seems to be a minimal of "make your own" panniers on the net. If things go as planned I want to post my designs and help that out. I would post a picture but I don't have one yet.
scott
Unfortunately compared to the variety of designs and directions of backpack, tents, sleeping bags and especially stoves, there seems to be a minimal of "make your own" panniers on the net. If things go as planned I want to post my designs and help that out. I would post a picture but I don't have one yet.
scott
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I just finaly got my pics posted on a web page. Although it includes lots of other things I made, my panniers are there too. The pics of the bike bags are the current ones I have made. They are saddlebag design. Like I mentioned above, I will be making a newer version that can be mounted to front racks and will be posting directions on backpacking.net after this semester is over. Keep us posted on your panniers.
Scott
https://photobucket.com/albums/y23/tbdesigns/
Scott
https://photobucket.com/albums/y23/tbdesigns/
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Wow, those are really nice, scott. No, there isn't much info. on building your own panniers on the net, but their is TONS of info. on making your own backpacks. Many of the same priniples apply. The materials used are the same. Make a backpack, throw in a hardback, slap on some Arkel hooks and your set.
Quest Outfitters sells outdoor materials. If you are interested in making a pannier from scratch then this is it. Check out thier G4 Lightwieght Backpack. I imagine the design could be changed for panniers.
Remember Heidi Domeisen? She made a lot of her own gear prior to her tour from North Carolina to Alaska and back.
Quest Outfitters sells outdoor materials. If you are interested in making a pannier from scratch then this is it. Check out thier G4 Lightwieght Backpack. I imagine the design could be changed for panniers.
Remember Heidi Domeisen? She made a lot of her own gear prior to her tour from North Carolina to Alaska and back.
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So if you were gonna buy some fabric to make your own panniers (I've been looking into doing this for months) what would you go with?
D
D
#14
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OK so I noticed I was late for work, clocked in with two seconds to spare.
Anyway I would choose polyester(AKA Dacron) coated on one side for waterproofness(resistance) because it is very strong, very UV resistant without any treatment, very chemical resistant, it doesn't really stretch much, it is slightly stiffer than nylon, almost as abrasion resistant as nylon, and most of all I have a set of medium sized panniers made of polyester that were bought over 15 years ago and, though slightly faded, they remain full strength.
Nylon is more abrasion resistant(esp. Cordura and other air textured nylons), stronger when subject to shock loads (like a mountain climber falling) because it stretches(think bungee), more limp for a given fiber size, and more common than polyester in outdoor fabrics. However nylon does tare very easely after a fair amount of use in the sun.
Tin cloth, wax/oil finished cotton or hemp canvas or twill is quite strong, very stiff, very waterproof, fairly low cost, easy to seam seal (just rub on some waxoil stuff), doesent unravel or catch on pointy things (smooth[ish] sealed surface), looks good without dye, undyed it won't fade, UV proof, and easy to clean (just wipe off with a wet rag). It is a fair bit heavier for equal strength, however most luggage fabric is more than strong enough, so it may be about equal weight when aiming for the same stiffness, you must test this 'cause I dunno. It may be tougher than most home sewing machines.(depending on the exact weight of the fabric and of course the individual machine.)
Spectra (AkA ultra high molecular weight polyethelene) is very strong and low stretch but not at all resistant to UV.
Kevlar is quite expencive, hard to cut, and if I recall has only moderate UV resistance otherwise great stuff.
Carbon fiber is just so stiff it would be ridiculus to try to sew.(not the fiber reinforced plastic, the actual fabric that reinforces the plastic. Same for glass fiber fabric. Neither would be fun if some frayed bits got into your cloths.
Weave choice is about a few factors: surface feel, a stable structure to work with(so it's not parallelagraming and so on), drape-ability or the ability to take compound curves, stiffness, to some degree strength, and the look. Generally a more stable weave is stiffer and less able to take compound curves.
Plain 1*1 is the most stable and least able to take compound curves, and it has corse feel; 2*2, 1*2, 2*3, 1*3 or 3*3 plain weaves are called basket or oxford weaves they are almost as stable as 1*1 but feel smoother and can take slightly more compound curving than a 1*1, they also tend to be stronger because the strands aren't being bent up and down as much or as tightly, the 1*2 and other unequal types have a slight ribbed feel. Ballistic nylon weave is a 2*2, I think, but woven much closer in both directions.
Twill and satin weaves are a bit more complex. Twill results in a fairly stable fabric that can take a decent compound curve, twill has the diagonal lines, denim is a type of medium weight twill. Satin is very shapable, but hard to work with because it's not very stable, satin is very smooth and strong as strands don't weave up and down much.
Weight or denier of the fabric depends on what you want, of course, heavy or high denier is not only stronger(how strong do you really need) but stiffer, and more abrasion, tare and cut resistant. Light weight fabric is of course light, but also less expensive, limper, and more prone to puncures, tares and cuts. I wouldn't go below 400denier polyester or nylon, or below 8oz waxed canvas(before waxing, 8.5-9oz after). 600 denier or 12.5oz(after wax, 11oz before) would be my choice I think.
Of course if you want fully rubberized/plasicized fabric like Ortleib uses, most of this is N/A.
Silboat sails are generally made of Dacron polyester and seems to be fairly stiff in the heavier weight sails, try hiting up a local sailmaker for some scraps.
Dumpster diving rocks(not in places that have rotten stuff like food markets and resturants)
Anyway I would choose polyester(AKA Dacron) coated on one side for waterproofness(resistance) because it is very strong, very UV resistant without any treatment, very chemical resistant, it doesn't really stretch much, it is slightly stiffer than nylon, almost as abrasion resistant as nylon, and most of all I have a set of medium sized panniers made of polyester that were bought over 15 years ago and, though slightly faded, they remain full strength.
Nylon is more abrasion resistant(esp. Cordura and other air textured nylons), stronger when subject to shock loads (like a mountain climber falling) because it stretches(think bungee), more limp for a given fiber size, and more common than polyester in outdoor fabrics. However nylon does tare very easely after a fair amount of use in the sun.
Tin cloth, wax/oil finished cotton or hemp canvas or twill is quite strong, very stiff, very waterproof, fairly low cost, easy to seam seal (just rub on some waxoil stuff), doesent unravel or catch on pointy things (smooth[ish] sealed surface), looks good without dye, undyed it won't fade, UV proof, and easy to clean (just wipe off with a wet rag). It is a fair bit heavier for equal strength, however most luggage fabric is more than strong enough, so it may be about equal weight when aiming for the same stiffness, you must test this 'cause I dunno. It may be tougher than most home sewing machines.(depending on the exact weight of the fabric and of course the individual machine.)
Spectra (AkA ultra high molecular weight polyethelene) is very strong and low stretch but not at all resistant to UV.
Kevlar is quite expencive, hard to cut, and if I recall has only moderate UV resistance otherwise great stuff.
Carbon fiber is just so stiff it would be ridiculus to try to sew.(not the fiber reinforced plastic, the actual fabric that reinforces the plastic. Same for glass fiber fabric. Neither would be fun if some frayed bits got into your cloths.
Weave choice is about a few factors: surface feel, a stable structure to work with(so it's not parallelagraming and so on), drape-ability or the ability to take compound curves, stiffness, to some degree strength, and the look. Generally a more stable weave is stiffer and less able to take compound curves.
Plain 1*1 is the most stable and least able to take compound curves, and it has corse feel; 2*2, 1*2, 2*3, 1*3 or 3*3 plain weaves are called basket or oxford weaves they are almost as stable as 1*1 but feel smoother and can take slightly more compound curving than a 1*1, they also tend to be stronger because the strands aren't being bent up and down as much or as tightly, the 1*2 and other unequal types have a slight ribbed feel. Ballistic nylon weave is a 2*2, I think, but woven much closer in both directions.
Twill and satin weaves are a bit more complex. Twill results in a fairly stable fabric that can take a decent compound curve, twill has the diagonal lines, denim is a type of medium weight twill. Satin is very shapable, but hard to work with because it's not very stable, satin is very smooth and strong as strands don't weave up and down much.
Weight or denier of the fabric depends on what you want, of course, heavy or high denier is not only stronger(how strong do you really need) but stiffer, and more abrasion, tare and cut resistant. Light weight fabric is of course light, but also less expensive, limper, and more prone to puncures, tares and cuts. I wouldn't go below 400denier polyester or nylon, or below 8oz waxed canvas(before waxing, 8.5-9oz after). 600 denier or 12.5oz(after wax, 11oz before) would be my choice I think.
Of course if you want fully rubberized/plasicized fabric like Ortleib uses, most of this is N/A.
Silboat sails are generally made of Dacron polyester and seems to be fairly stiff in the heavier weight sails, try hiting up a local sailmaker for some scraps.
Dumpster diving rocks(not in places that have rotten stuff like food markets and resturants)
Last edited by capsicum; 04-06-05 at 04:25 AM.
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It should, mostly it comes down to the size of the needle and thread that it will take, and how many layers of fabric. Some types of seems really get thick, just look at a pair of Levy jeans. I really don't know a huge lot about sewing yet though. I just got through the fabric and some thread stuff!
This is the strongest most waterresistant seam I know of, I don't recall it's name but it's used on jeans.
the top is the first step, the bottom is second, light green is first step stitching, dark green is second step stitching, red and blue are fabric. It requires sewing through four layers of fabric.
This is the strongest most waterresistant seam I know of, I don't recall it's name but it's used on jeans.
the top is the first step, the bottom is second, light green is first step stitching, dark green is second step stitching, red and blue are fabric. It requires sewing through four layers of fabric.
Last edited by capsicum; 04-09-05 at 04:58 AM.
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Originally Posted by funbun
Wow, thanks, caps.
Would a regular sewing machine handle 600 denier Cordura?
Would a regular sewing machine handle 600 denier Cordura?
#18
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Capsicum, Its called a flat felled seam. There is another way of making flat felled seam in thru-hiker.com under the "workshop" in "basic seam for making your own gear". Nice pictures.
Funbun... I use an old White machine and can sew thru just about anything. The issue is not the fabric itself but going thru a folded seam with 4+ layers of fabric and two layers of webbing. I use 16 gauge needles, they are advertised as demin needles. Although you aleady mentioned it yourself, the backpacking.net site would be a great spot to ask about questions like this as well. Thru-hiker.com is another great site. Although its devoted to anything backpacking, he has got a lot of great info on seams and other things related to sewing.
Scott
Funbun... I use an old White machine and can sew thru just about anything. The issue is not the fabric itself but going thru a folded seam with 4+ layers of fabric and two layers of webbing. I use 16 gauge needles, they are advertised as demin needles. Although you aleady mentioned it yourself, the backpacking.net site would be a great spot to ask about questions like this as well. Thru-hiker.com is another great site. Although its devoted to anything backpacking, he has got a lot of great info on seams and other things related to sewing.
Scott
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Interesting panniers, Scott.
I have ideas about design, but I'm looking for information regarding material, zippers, etc., as I have NO idea where to buy that stuff.
Right now I have the panniers I need, but my set of Arkel T-42 will need to be replaced soon. The structure is still very good, but after 7-8 years of year-round use, the fabric is worn and one zipper is really cranky. I am thinking about rebuilding them onto the same frame.
If I do so, I might use waterproof material on the top and front surface, which would keep the content dry when there is just a mist of water.
I have ideas about design, but I'm looking for information regarding material, zippers, etc., as I have NO idea where to buy that stuff.
Right now I have the panniers I need, but my set of Arkel T-42 will need to be replaced soon. The structure is still very good, but after 7-8 years of year-round use, the fabric is worn and one zipper is really cranky. I am thinking about rebuilding them onto the same frame.
If I do so, I might use waterproof material on the top and front surface, which would keep the content dry when there is just a mist of water.
#20
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Buy this book:
Sew and Repair You Outdoor Gear by Louise Lindgren
Lots of info on materials and such. A good primer for making your own gear. I bought it and plan to use it make some of my own rain gear for touring.
Sew and Repair You Outdoor Gear by Louise Lindgren
Lots of info on materials and such. A good primer for making your own gear. I bought it and plan to use it make some of my own rain gear for touring.
#21
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rub a spot of bees wax on those zippers. It helps a lot, and makes them more water resistant too.
try here they even have a universal sampler that gives a 1"x2" patch of everything. and larger individual samples(each for a fee)
try the vinyl coated polyester it's like the stuff ortleib uses
https://www.owfinc.com/Fabrics/fabricmain.htm
they also have a polyester oxford and a cordura like polyester..lots of cool stuff
try here they even have a universal sampler that gives a 1"x2" patch of everything. and larger individual samples(each for a fee)
try the vinyl coated polyester it's like the stuff ortleib uses
https://www.owfinc.com/Fabrics/fabricmain.htm
they also have a polyester oxford and a cordura like polyester..lots of cool stuff
#22
Senior Member
I worked for an organisation that promoted a major motor sport event. One of the freebies given to competing crews was a fabric backpack containing other goodies. I got some leftovers over several years -- four of them. They lay dormant in the cupboard until I took up cycling and decided to ride from Perth to Adelaide across the Nullarbor.
Panniers? I was looking for something cheap, so the backpacks suddenly found a use. I cut off the shoulder straps, got some hooks used for tonneau tie downs on utes/pick-ups and simply screwed them on with nuts and bolts. The backs of the pannier were reinforced with several layers of fabric and strapping.
The hook fitted with a "snap" over the pannier. Red panniers went on the rear, green ones on the front. I used straps to stabilise the bottom of them.
The "panniers" were great. One thing I liked about them was the zipper that opened the flap to the side. It proved better than having to go pannier-diving. And they were light. Waterproofing was taken care of by using plastic bags.
I dug them out the other day. Both pairs were terribly faded from the constant sun exposure, but otherwise, I could still use them tomorrow.
I've often thought of making panniers along similar lines out of waterproof stuff. But I keep on using my Torpeako panniers, and on and on. <shrug>
For touring cyclists who have any creative ability, I think a sewing machine and a dehydrator for food/meals would be a great combination leading to relative self-sufficiency. I dropped a hint to my daughter and son for Christmas, about the sewing machine, but I think it went over their heads!
By the way, if you want a real sewing machine challenge, try lycra. Grrrrr!!!!
Panniers? I was looking for something cheap, so the backpacks suddenly found a use. I cut off the shoulder straps, got some hooks used for tonneau tie downs on utes/pick-ups and simply screwed them on with nuts and bolts. The backs of the pannier were reinforced with several layers of fabric and strapping.
The hook fitted with a "snap" over the pannier. Red panniers went on the rear, green ones on the front. I used straps to stabilise the bottom of them.
The "panniers" were great. One thing I liked about them was the zipper that opened the flap to the side. It proved better than having to go pannier-diving. And they were light. Waterproofing was taken care of by using plastic bags.
I dug them out the other day. Both pairs were terribly faded from the constant sun exposure, but otherwise, I could still use them tomorrow.
I've often thought of making panniers along similar lines out of waterproof stuff. But I keep on using my Torpeako panniers, and on and on. <shrug>
For touring cyclists who have any creative ability, I think a sewing machine and a dehydrator for food/meals would be a great combination leading to relative self-sufficiency. I dropped a hint to my daughter and son for Christmas, about the sewing machine, but I think it went over their heads!
By the way, if you want a real sewing machine challenge, try lycra. Grrrrr!!!!
#23
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That's the website I've been looking for, but couldn't find!
Rowan, do you have any pics of those panniers?
Rowan, do you have any pics of those panniers?
#24
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https://www.rayjardine.com/index.shtml
Check out this guy's website. He actually has a dvd on how he made his backpack.
Check out this guy's website. He actually has a dvd on how he made his backpack.
#25
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: vermont
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Hey Michel,
If you saw my site, you can obviously figure out that making my own stuff is a real fun hobby for me. The three usual sites for finding materials and harware are OWFinc.com, seattlefabrics.com, questoutfitters.com. OWF is the cheapest but their selection lacks... Its also the only one I use personally. Great customer service. The other two are used and liked as well. Seattle fabrics has probably got the most info about the materials. I don't mean to say it again but the backpacking.net site is full of people who make their own gear and is a wealth of info. As far as your arkels... Unless you want the chalange and pride of completely rebulding them, it is often cheaper and much less of a headache to buy new. But then again, you can't say I made these myself. Doesn't arkel have a lifetime guarrantee?
Good luck,
scott
If you saw my site, you can obviously figure out that making my own stuff is a real fun hobby for me. The three usual sites for finding materials and harware are OWFinc.com, seattlefabrics.com, questoutfitters.com. OWF is the cheapest but their selection lacks... Its also the only one I use personally. Great customer service. The other two are used and liked as well. Seattle fabrics has probably got the most info about the materials. I don't mean to say it again but the backpacking.net site is full of people who make their own gear and is a wealth of info. As far as your arkels... Unless you want the chalange and pride of completely rebulding them, it is often cheaper and much less of a headache to buy new. But then again, you can't say I made these myself. Doesn't arkel have a lifetime guarrantee?
Good luck,
scott