LHT & Rohloff
 

Would like to hear from anyone who has this set up. Considering it for my wife.
Thanks

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4056/...ddce98b1_b.jpg

I've had a couple Rohloffs and a couple LHTs, but never combined them.

You'll need to run a chain tensioner since the LHTs dropouts are vertical.

If you get the disc trucker you can run a Monkey Bone and the OEM 2 Axle plate to stop the IGH from rotating as you pedal. That's a reasonably clean setup.

If you have a rim brake trucker you'll need to use the Rohloff long torque arm. Frankly with that and the tensioner it's a pretty ugly setup.

If you are set on a Rohloff and open to another frame consider getting one that has some sort of chain tensioning mechanism built in [EBB, sliding/swinging dropouts, etc...] and disc brakes. You can have a really clean/simple setup that way.

Given the cost/investment in using a Rohloff I'd get a frame that works really well with it vs. hacking a frame that isn't well suited to one.

+1

I don't have a Rohloff. And I love, love, love my LHT, but it has run some kind of hub gear its entire life, which means I've always had to fiddle with a chain tensioner. It's certainly not the end of the world, and I do love that bike, but considering that I never plan on not running a gear hub, it makes sense to have a frame that will more easily accommodate the hub.

When I got my frame, the LHT had a great combination of reputation and price. I didn't see a whole lot of options that sounded better, or even as good, that didn't involve spending a lot more. Now it seems like there are more options in the same price range, some of the Surlys. It's a constant temptation to change my frame, except I have a set-up that works and that I love. It just takes fiddling when adjustments are needed.

So, of course, if you already have a frame, it may not be worth the cash to change it. I feel like there are some people running that combo, and hopefully they will chime in. But otherwise I agree with Vik: If you know you're planning to use a Rohloff, you might as well get a frame that will work with less fiddling and will give you a cleaner set up.

I could live with a Disc Trucker + Rohloff + tensioner, but if you go with a rim brake Trucker + tensioner + long torque arm that's a pretty ugly setup I'd avoid.

I spoke with Bilenky Cycle. It is a possible to have different drop puts installed for a Rohloff and avoid the tensioner. Yeah I know it is $$ but if one likes the frame it may be the way to go. I am considering it for my wife's bike as she really struggles with climbing and getting the right gear. So anything I can do to make it easier for her means note touring for me!!

Nice Nomad. I rather wish I'd gone for the S&S couplers, it's a big bike to fly with...

OP, have you thought about a Tout Terrain silkroad? Peter White imports them to the US, I believe, great rohloff-equipped bikes.

the act of rotating the shift grip is certainly simpler, than figuring out the shift sequence
when you have a few double shifts of FD & RD to go down in order of lower ratios 1 at a time.. .

lower low may not be in the plan.. [than say a 22:36]

LHT Disc Brake lets you use the Type2 OEM end & 'speed',or Monkey Bone .. Cycle Monkey in NorCal is now, also Rohloff USA service center
and wholesale full range, distributor

the 'bone'; uses the ISO disc mount bolts .. Type 2 Torque stop fits over 1 of the 2 ISO Bolts as it is ..

You still have the Hubs Minimum chain drive ratio limit 2.35:1 (as I Recall) so 16: 38.. though with a smaller wheel .. [not an LHT]

Like Bike Friday .. what is on the edge of the warrantee's range is much lower than a bigger wheel

Eg the 16:38 with a 26" Wheel is about = to the 16:53 with a 20" wheel ..

Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator 16:38 inputing a 622-35 wheel . low [.28] is 18"; 26x1.5" tire, its 16.5"

BMX 20" its 12.4" (18.1" is 4th)

If you are going to the trouble get them to drill and tap a hole in the non-driveside dropout for an M5 bolt that can interface with the Rohloff OEM2 axle plate. That means no Monkey Bone or long torque arm needed.

They can look the Surly Big Dummy/Troll dropouts for inspiration.

The LHT is not a sprightly climber so if your ultimate goal is to make climbing easier for her I'd get a different frame.

The Rohloff is just going to add a lot of weight to the bike which isn't going to help her climb and the gear range isn't going to be better than a dérailleur setup. A Rohloff is simple to use as long as you can train yourself to pause slightly as you shift otherwise you end up in gear 14 [hardest] and any momentum you had climbing is dead.

yea the 7~8 shift is a double shift .. 8 is the low in high range , 7 is the high in low range ..
the momentary pause in power is pretty common to let an IGH shift..

quite similar is the double shift with the combination of my Mountain drive crank.. low & high range and by AW3, 123.. 456 3~4 is a double shift.
though I have a button on the crank + the shifter on the bars..


Rohloff made a 36 hole hubshell , because people were putting the 32 hole in tandems and taking tours into the Peruvian Andes ..

so maybe a new tandem frame is in order ? for the 2 up rig..

Phil Wood has a beefier 1/8" cog now for Rohloff hubs Vs their stock 3/32.

I converted an Atlantis to a Rohloff to use as a commuter. I don't mind the lever arm but the chain tensioner is a real pain when changing tires. I am currently using a Philcentric bottom bracket instead but it requires a half-link in the chain. The new bike will have sliding dropouts. The pause to shift is just a quick let up on the pedals for a light person. There's also the Shimano Di2 XTR coming out with the Syncro shift option. As a Rohloff user it looks appealing and probably not that much more expensive when all it taken together.