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Fuji Track Elite

Old 08-18-18, 12:20 PM
  #126  
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You can use both sides normally. Most track racers don't use a lock ring. You do have to use a lock ring if you use a carrier style cassette system.
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Old 08-18-18, 03:45 PM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by tobukog View Post
You can use both sides normally. Most track racers don't use a lock ring. You do have to use a lock ring if you use a carrier style cassette system.
Ah, very interesting! Thanks.
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Old 08-18-18, 07:13 PM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by krispenhartung View Post
so these Oval rear wheels on these elites have cog threads on both sides. However, one side has fewer threads and if you put a cog on it, there's not room for a lock ring. I have no idea what's going on here. Can anyone explain? Is that for a different type of cog?
Sounds like a flip flop hub. One side for track cog and lock ring, the other for a free wheel... Common on wheels built for use either fixed or single speed.
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Old 08-20-18, 08:18 AM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by Dalai View Post
Sounds like a flip flop hub. One side for track cog and lock ring, the other for a free wheel... Common on wheels built for use either fixed or single speed.
While it does sound like the wheels could be flip-flop from that description, they are not.
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Old 08-20-18, 09:01 AM
  #130  
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Is it possible that they are flip-flop with a fixed/free option?
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Old 08-26-18, 09:51 AM
  #131  
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What do you think...too tight? I have set it up with this clearance with 52:15, which is the largest chain ring/cog size I would use for all configurations. I can gear up to 100 inches by adding a 14t cog and everything in between with smaller chain rings, with plenty of clearance on my chain stay. But despite the aerodynamics of the tight clearance, are there dangers in it being that tight? I might be taken out by a small pebble. ;-)

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Old 08-26-18, 10:16 AM
  #132  
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no real danger other than something jamming between tyre/cutout. My old aluminum P3 did that once and it left a gnarly gnash in the cutout. That was on (a bad) road of course, and I used to run it very tight. I can't imagine it's a problem on the track. Shorter distance for it to go if you ever pull a wheel
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Old 08-26-18, 11:44 AM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by Morelock View Post
no real danger other than something jamming between tyre/cutout. My old aluminum P3 did that once and it left a gnarly gnash in the cutout. That was on (a bad) road of course, and I used to run it very tight. I can't imagine it's a problem on the track. Shorter distance for it to go if you ever pull a wheel
Unfortunately, the way chains link together I'm not able to back off in a small increment. The next shorter size of chain with 52:15 puts my axle bolts about in the middle of the chain stay, which means if I put a 51:14 or 51:15 on it, its way back toward the end of the chain stay.
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Old 08-26-18, 04:21 PM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by krispenhartung View Post
Unfortunately, the way chains link together I'm not able to back off in a small increment. The next shorter size of chain with 52:15 puts my axle bolts about in the middle of the chain stay, which means if I put a 51:14 or 51:15 on it, its way back toward the end of the chain stay.
A half link can be a helpful thing to have around, but you have plenty of clearance in the photo. Unless you're riding in gravel?
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Old 08-26-18, 04:22 PM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by Baby Puke View Post
A half link can be a helpful thing to have around, but you have plenty of clearance in the photo. Unless you're riding in gravel?
Ha ha...no gravel! Don't think I've seen a cyclocross velodrome, but that would be interesting.
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Old 08-26-18, 10:02 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by krispenhartung View Post
Ha ha...no gravel! Don't think I've seen a cyclocross velodrome, but that would be interesting.
The nearest thing might be a damp grass track race - your Fuji would jam up with muddy grass.
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Old 08-26-18, 11:39 PM
  #137  
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BTW, @krispenhartung, cool looking chain- what is it?
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Old 08-27-18, 06:28 AM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by Baby Puke View Post
BTW, @krispenhartung, cool looking chain- what is it?
Thatís one of those Izumi Eco chains. Iíve been trying them out.
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Old 08-30-18, 12:13 PM
  #139  
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Has anyone experienced any issues with your saddle not staying tight on the rails and the nose going down? I have experienced this both with my Fuji Track Elite and my Fuji Norcom Straight TT bike, both of which use the same saddle tightening mechanism. I'm not sure what to do. I am tightening it to spec -- 12nm. It's driving me nuts.
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Old 08-30-18, 01:03 PM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by krispenhartung View Post
Has anyone experienced any issues with your saddle not staying tight on the rails and the nose going down? I have experienced this both with my Fuji Track Elite and my Fuji Norcom Straight TT bike, both of which use the same saddle tightening mechanism. I'm not sure what to do. I am tightening it to spec -- 12nm. It's driving me nuts.
Any pics (even product pics from the website) of the seatpost in question?

This is a common problem among clamps that use a one-bolt design. They seem to work based on friction. These work fine when the rider is in the center of the saddle. But, if one rides "on the rivet", it's subject to tilt...even under smaller riders.



This is why 2-bolt systems (like Thomson and many others) are prized. The bolts work in opposition of each other, one keeping the other from giving up.

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Old 08-30-18, 01:12 PM
  #141  
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Originally Posted by carleton View Post
Any pics (even product pics from the website) of the seatpost in question?

This is a common problem among clamps that use a one-bolt design. They seem to work based on friction. These work fine when the rider is in the center of the saddle. But, if one rides "on the rivet", it's subject to tilt...even under smaller riders.

This is why 2-bolt systems (like Thomson and many others) are prized. The bolts work in opposition of each other, one keeping the other from giving up.
Here is the pain in the butt:

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Old 08-30-18, 02:00 PM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by krispenhartung View Post
Has anyone experienced any issues with your saddle not staying tight on the rails and the nose going down? I have experienced this both with my Fuji Track Elite and my Fuji Norcom Straight TT bike, both of which use the same saddle tightening mechanism. I'm not sure what to do. I am tightening it to spec -- 12nm. It's driving me nuts.
I called the dealer here and they said try some of that carbon paste/grit. Put it all over the inside mechanism that allows it to rotate the saddle up and down.
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Old 08-30-18, 03:20 PM
  #143  
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Rail size/clamp size issues is my first guess. Most carbon rails are bigger than metal ones.
Ritchey sells a carbon specific clamp that should fit. (the topper Fuji uses on the Track Elites is a WCS 1-bolt clampset)
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Old 08-30-18, 03:44 PM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by Morelock View Post
Rail size/clamp size issues is my first guess. Most carbon rails are bigger than metal ones.
Ritchey sells a carbon specific clamp that should fit. (the topper Fuji uses on the Track Elites is a WCS 1-bolt clampset)
That may be worth a try, though I have seen this slippage on both carbon and non-carbon rails. I also just put some carbon grit paste on there so we'll see how it holds up on the track tomorrow night.
Would you off hand know the specific product and model of Ritchey clamb that it compatible with the Fuji clamp?

It just seems like poor design to me. The contraption that holds the rails and tightens down sits on another piece that has a sort of a quarter size rotator cup. Reminds me of how a bone ball joint rotates in a rotator cup.
So when you tighten down the bolts, all it does is tighten down on the rails (which works fine for keeping the rails from sliding forward and backward), but also tightens down the ball joint, which is entirely inefficient at keeping the whole thing from rotating up and down on the cup, which is totally slick metal with no resistance at all. . Just seems wrong.
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Old 08-30-18, 03:45 PM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by Morelock View Post
Rail size/clamp size issues is my first guess. Most carbon rails are bigger than metal ones.
Ritchey sells a carbon specific clamp that should fit. (the topper Fuji uses on the Track Elites is a WCS 1-bolt clampset)
It this it? https://us.ritcheylogic.com/us_en/wc...seatpost-clamp
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Old 08-30-18, 04:03 PM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by krispenhartung View Post
That's it. There are a couple of different size carbon rails fyi, I know some of the Fizik's are bigger/smaller than most.

Strange to have seen it slipping with metal rails as well. This is the same topper a lot of TT/tri (P5,etc) bikes switched to last generation and they generally get glowing reviews. I've wrenched a couple of them and never had anyone complain about slipping. Is there any chance the bolt is loosening? Checked the threads/use blue loctite?

I still think the right piece for the carbon rails would help, but I also think you should disassemble everything on the topper and look for anything that seems out of place. The metal rails should have been rock solid.
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Old 08-30-18, 04:11 PM
  #147  
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Originally Posted by Morelock View Post
That's it. There are a couple of different size carbon rails fyi, I know some of the Fizik's are bigger/smaller than most.

Strange to have seen it slipping with metal rails as well. This is the same topper a lot of TT/tri (P5,etc) bikes switched to last generation and they generally get glowing reviews. I've wrenched a couple of them and never had anyone complain about slipping. Is there any chance the bolt is loosening? Checked the threads/use blue loctite?

I still think the right piece for the carbon rails would help, but I also think you should disassemble everything on the topper and look for anything that seems out of place. The metal rails should have been rock solid.
I ordered the new clamp, based on the Fizik carbon rail spec. I'll add some locktite a swell in addition to the carbon paste.
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Old 09-01-18, 04:29 PM
  #148  
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Are carbon rails worth it?

Riding the track, you are more likely to break rails than on the road. I've seen averaged-sized racers both crack the saddle frame or break rails when hitting bumps on tracks.

I'd go for steel or "Kium" (whatever that is that Fizik uses) over titanium or carbon rails, even if I were of average weight.

I think carbon rails are simply for the weight weenie crowd and a way for companies to charge double for the same saddle.
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Old 09-01-18, 05:17 PM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by carleton View Post

Riding the track, you are more likely to break rails than on the road. I've seen averaged-sized racers both crack the saddle frame or break rails when hitting bumps on tracks.
.
Yeah but not all tracks have Dick Lane pot holes
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Old 09-01-18, 06:27 PM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by Morelock View Post
Yeah but not all tracks have Dick Lane pot holes
True you could have the "speed bumps" and "launch ramps" of Kissena.
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