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Longest top tube 50 cm frame?

Old 11-23-19, 02:56 AM
  #26  
ruudlaff
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Originally Posted by topflightpro View Post
I haven't had issues with my seatpost slipping, and I have one of the older DF4s. I think the one big drawback to the current DF4 is the short track ends, but at least they don't spread.
Iíve now got multiple chains for this issue
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Old 11-24-19, 10:24 PM
  #27  
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I've taken the plunge and put in for the Dolan. Thanks everyone for all the help and thoughts, I'll be prepared with a PVC pipe, carbon paste, torque wrench, etc. Now to get a rear wheel, tires (?), bars, stem, another saddle, an SRM, and some minor stuff. I have a slew of (new) cogs, couple chains, chainrings with I don't think I can use (130 BCD, for when I was going to use a Campy crank as a track crank). I need to lace over a clincher onto a track hub since I don't have a clincher track rear wheel. And next spring some tests with different aero bars vs without, and some drives to velodromes to race the thing a big.
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Old 11-25-19, 07:32 AM
  #28  
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If you need chainrings or cogs - https://www.njs-export.com/ is a great source. (The eBay web store - link at the bottom of the page - is sometimes cheaper.)

And you really don't need an SRM if you're trying to save money. But if you do go SRM, you will probably want to go with a Rotor version to be able to go with arms shorter than 165, which I would assume is what you would want.
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Old 11-25-19, 10:13 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by topflightpro View Post
If you need chainrings or cogs - https://www.njs-export.com/ is a great source. (The eBay web store - link at the bottom of the page - is sometimes cheaper.)

And you really don't need an SRM if you're trying to save money. But if you do go SRM, you will probably want to go with a Rotor version to be able to go with arms shorter than 165, which I would assume is what you would want.
Thanks on the rings/cogs link.

SRM - they offer 160 now, at least on their site (Origin track), but believe it or not I'm going to start with 170 and see how it goes. Using a 175 on the road, I've had a hard time getting used to even a 170, having tried it 3 different seasons in the last 12 years or so.

I'm pretty vested in SRM, with two on my road bikes, so having a third would keep things consistent. I don't want to be wondering if the power reading is off from one crank to another. Plus I'd have spare heads, pickups, etc. And with trade in stuff I may be able to save some money.
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Old 11-26-19, 06:53 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by carpediemracing View Post
Thanks on the rings/cogs link.

SRM - they offer 160 now, at least on their site (Origin track), but believe it or not I'm going to start with 170 and see how it goes. Using a 175 on the road, I've had a hard time getting used to even a 170, having tried it 3 different seasons in the last 12 years or so.

I'm pretty vested in SRM, with two on my road bikes, so having a third would keep things consistent. I don't want to be wondering if the power reading is off from one crank to another. Plus I'd have spare heads, pickups, etc. And with trade in stuff I may be able to save some money.
What I meant was, you don't really need power on the track. It's definitely nice, and I have it, but just starting out, not really necessary. Also, IIRC, you are still running wired SRM head units. The newer ones are wireless. I don't know that they will work together. And if you opt for an older wired SRM, many of them are not weather sealed. This isn't an issue unless you travel with your bike outside your car.
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Old 11-26-19, 08:50 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by topflightpro View Post
What I meant was, you don't really need power on the track. It's definitely nice, and I have it, but just starting out, not really necessary. Also, IIRC, you are still running wired SRM head units. The newer ones are wireless. I don't know that they will work together. And if you opt for an older wired SRM, many of them are not weather sealed. This isn't an issue unless you travel with your bike outside your car.
Yup.

I rode with mine on the roof and passed under a rain storm. I touched "3,000W" in warmup that day

Things went back to normal after it dried out over night.
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Old 11-26-19, 11:38 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by topflightpro View Post
What I meant was, you don't really need power on the track. It's definitely nice, and I have it, but just starting out, not really necessary. Also, IIRC, you are still running wired SRM head units. The newer ones are wireless. I don't know that they will work together. And if you opt for an older wired SRM, many of them are not weather sealed. This isn't an issue unless you travel with your bike outside your car.
I'm curious about power, especially since I dont have much experience fixed vs not fixed.

Im impressed that you knew I had wired units. Over the last 2 years I upgraded my BB30 SRMs to wireless, with PC7 heads.

I have a wired one still, BSA standard SRM, which I'd upgrade.
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